Enhancing shoreline advance by ploughing the intertidal beach: Physical simulation

Author(s):  
Erica Pellón ◽  
Iñigo Aniel-Quiroga ◽  
Mauricio González ◽  
Raúl Medina

<p>Understanding shoreline behaviour and developing tools to deal with erosion has increasing interest nowadays. Coastal erosion and accretion produce changes on the beach width. These changes condition the uses given to dry beach and coastal areas. As the beach becomes narrower, the hazard of coastal areas increases. Additionally, due to the tourism, the demand and interest for wider beaches in early spring have risen.</p><p>Natural and human factors determine shoreline evolution. Storms erode beaches during winter, and calm weather conditions produce accretion. Assisted recovery techniques aim to propose new soft engineering methods that enhance accretion during calm periods. These human interventions need to be thoroughly analysed to ensure their effectiveness. In this study, we propose the ploughing of the intertidal beach area to accelerate the natural recovery process of the beach.</p><p>The effect of ploughing the intertidal area of a beach has been analysed through real scale physical simulations in the wave-current-tsunami flume (COCoTsu) of IHCantabria. The effect of the ploughing was monitored by measuring the sand transported shoreward with cell pressures beneath sediment trap boxes. The channel was longitudinally split into two equal channels (1 m wide each), one of them with plane sloping sand and the other including five crests and holes emulating a real plough made by a tractor. The comparison of both sides derives the effect of the ploughing.</p><p>Simulated geometry includes wave generator, 11 m of flat bottom, 17 m of concrete variable sloping fixed bed, 10 m of sand with D<sub>50</sub> = 0.318 mm movable bed, 2 m of trap box for continuous capturing and weighting shoreward transported sand and 10 m of wave dissipators. Concrete and sand slopes were designed to mimic the real geometry of a sandy beach intertidal accreting bar.</p><p>Sixteen experiments were conducted with fixed wave dynamics and bottom geometry and varying water level. Wave conditions were irregular waves with Hs = 0.3 m and Tp = 7 s, which produce dimensionless fall velocity Ω ≤ 1.5 ensuring accretion over the sandy bottom. Water level ranged from the level of the top of the sand to 50 cm above it. Additionally, one test was conducted with rising water level from -20 cm to 50 cm (from the top level of the sandy area), emulating a rising tidal cycle.</p><p>Hydrodynamics and morphodynamics were measured continuously during each experiment by means of 16 free surface elevation sensors, 4 ADV, 2 OBS, 8 pressure cells and 6 video cameras. Bottom load sediment transport was calculated as the difference of the measured total load (pressure cells beneath the aforementioned sand trap boxes) and suspended load sediment concentration measured by the OBS. Additionally, the laser scanner accurately determined the initial and final 3D geometry of the movable bed area.</p><p>All this data allows the analysis of the suitability of ploughing technique for accelerating natural accretion processes. Preliminary results show that ploughing affects the roughness of sandy bottom, increasing the wave dissipation and with a variable effect on sediment transport depending on the water level.</p>

Author(s):  
Konstantina A. Galani ◽  
Athanassios A. Dimas

The combined action of environmental forcing (waves, coastal currents, sediment transport, e.t.c.), the continuously decreasing supply of coastal areas with sediment from rivers, as well as the intense anthropogenic activity, results in the appearance of severe erosion problems in coastal areas and constantly decreasing beach width. A frequently used coastal protection measure is the construction of detached breakwaters parallel to the coastline. Detached breakwaters have a direct effect on the incoming waves, which contributes to the control of coastal sediment transport, hence the morphodynamics of the coastal bed. There are many examples of such structures, the majority of which are emerged breakwaters. Recently, interest has been directed towards the construction of low-crested (LC) and submerged breakwaters due to the reduced construction cost and a more effective harmonization with the natural environment. These structures are characterized by wave overtopping and breaking over their crest in addition to all other coastal processes that are involved with emerged breakwaters. For the proper design of such structures, one critical aspect is the behavior of the induced flow in their vicinity due to their presence. To this purpose, several studies have been carried out in recent years. In particular, Petti et al. (1994) studied experimentally the large scale vortices developed by waves breaking above a submerged breakwater. Mory and Hamm (1997) performed measurements of wave height, surface elevation and wave generated currents around a detached breakwater for incoming regular and irregular waves. Kramer et al. (2005) performed a series of experimental measurements in order to study the waves - LC structure interaction, in terms of flow velocity and turbulence developing around such structures within the European Project DE.LO.S. Garcia et al. (2004), Losada et al. (2005), Johnson et al. (2005) e.t.c. used the database created within the DE.LO.S. project to develop and validate numerical codes for the simulation of wave-induced flow around LC breakwaters. The aim of the present study was the experimental study of the flow developed by waves in the vicinity of an LC rubble mound breakwater with crest level at the water line (zero freeboard). The geometrical scale of the physical model was 1/30. The breakwater was placed on a beach of constant slope 1/15, which is typical of steep beaches in Greece.


Author(s):  
Li Zhijing ◽  
Li Dazhi ◽  
Liu Xiaobin ◽  
Jin Zhongwu ◽  
Chen Dasong

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 148
Author(s):  
G.R. Mogridge ◽  
W.W. Jamieson

Cooling water from a power generating station in Eastern Canada is pumped to an outfall and distributed into the ocean through discharge ports in the sidewalls of a diffuser cap. The cap is essentially a shell-type structure consisting of a submerged circular cylinder 26.5 ft in diameter and 14 ft high. It is located in 25 ft of water at low water level and 54 ft at high water level. Horizontal forces, vertical forces and overturning moments exerted by waves on a 1:36 scale model of the diffuser cap were measured with and without cooling water discharging from the outfall. Tests were run with regular and irregular waves producing both non-breaking and breaking wave loads on the diffuser cap. The overturning moments measured on the diffuser cap were up to 150 percent greater than those on a solid submerged cylinder sealed to the seabed. Unlike sealed cylinders, all of the wave loads measured on the relatively open structure reached maximum values at approximately the same time. The largest wave loads were measured on the diffuser structure when it was subjected to spilling breakers at low water level. For a given wave height, the spilling breakers caused wave loads up to 100 percent greater than those due to non-breaking waves.


2019 ◽  
Vol 112 (2) ◽  
pp. 166-181
Author(s):  
Jonas Hardege ◽  
Lukas Plan ◽  
Gerhard Winkler ◽  
Bernhard Grasemann ◽  
Ivo Baroň

AbstractEisensteinhöhle is a 2 km long crevice cave that is significantly overprinted by hydrothermal karst processes. It was opened during quarrying in the Fischauer Vorberge, at the western margin of the Vienna Basin. This pull-apart basin cuts the eastern foothills of the Alps and is formed by a major NE-SW striking, sinistral transform fault. The western margin consists of NNE-SSW striking normal faults creating paths for thermal water to rise from the central basin. The deepest part of the cave, 73 m below the entrance, hosts a pond with 14.6 ±0.2 °C warm water that occasionally acts as a spring. The water level and temperature fluctuate and at a certain level, water visibly discharges into a nearby narrow fissure. As sporadic observations of the water level since 1992 gave no obvious connection to precipitation events, the connection to an aquifer and the origin of the water remained unknown. A pumping test, conducted on 13/7/2016, yielded a volume of the spring/pool of about 2.8 m3 that is fed by a very small inlet at the sandy bottom. At the time of the pumping test, the discharge was only 4.5 l/h but during previous overflow events, discharge values of up to 289 l/h were recorded.Water temperature and hydrochemistry hint towards a mixture of an old thermal component and a young meteoric component. During continuous monitoring of water level and temperature from October 2015 until November 2018, the water level was almost stable with few periods of high level (almost at overflow) that lasted for about 3 to 4 weeks each. The water temperature increased during most high stands and is positively correlated with the water level. Correlation of the high-resolution data on water level and temperature fluctuations with precipitation measurements at the nearest meteorological stations show a relation of water level to certain rainfall events and the sporadically taken long time records show a correlation with annual precipitation sums. Long-term observations also indicate a connection to groundwater levels in the Vienna Basin with a delay of about 8 weeks in Bad Fischau. In July 2017, the water level dropped suddenly and then recovered simultaneously in the time of several weak earthquakes in the vicinity. The data suggest that the spring in Eisensteinhöhle is influenced by precipitation. For one seismic event, there is a correlation with unusual water level changes at Eisensteinhöhle, but the rareness of earthquakes demands for a longer time series to confirm this observation.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1347
Author(s):  
Jessie Louisor ◽  
Jérémy Rohmer ◽  
Thomas Bulteau ◽  
Faïza Boulahya ◽  
Rodrigo Pedreros ◽  
...  

As low-lying coastal areas can be impacted by flooding caused by dynamic components that are dependent on each other (wind, waves, water levels—tide, atmospheric surge, currents), the analysis of the return period of a single component is not representative of the return period of the total water level at the coast. It is important to assess a joint return period of all the components. Based on a semiparametric multivariate extreme value analysis, we determined the joint probabilities that significant wave heights (Hs), wind intensity at 10 m above the ground (U), and still water level (SWL) exceeded jointly imposed thresholds all along the Corsica Island coasts (Mediterranean Sea). We also considered the covariate peak direction (Dp), the peak period (Tp), and the wind direction (Du). Here, we focus on providing extreme scenarios to populate coastal hydrodynamic models, SWAN and SWASH-2DH, in order to compute the 100-year total water level (100y-TWL) all along the coasts. We show how the proposed multivariate extreme value analysis can help to more accurately define low-lying zones potentially exposed to coastal flooding, especially in Corsica where a unique value of 2 m was taken into account in previous studies. The computed 100y-TWL values are between 1 m along the eastern coasts and a maximum of 1.8 m on the western coast. The calculated values are also below the 2.4 m threshold recommended when considering the sea level rise (SLR). This highlights the added value of performing a full integration of extreme offshore conditions, together with their dependence on hydrodynamic simulations for screening out the coastal areas potentially exposed to flooding.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 99 ◽  
Author(s):  
James A. Bailard

An energetics-based longshore sediment transport model is developed which takes the form of a modification to the wave power equation. Instead of being constant, the wave power coefficient is a function of the breaker angle and the ratio of the orbital velocity magnitude and the sediment fall velocity. This modification extends the range of application of the wave power equation to include both field and laboratory conditions.


2015 ◽  
Vol 120 (11) ◽  
pp. 2298-2317 ◽  
Author(s):  
Siobhan L. Fathel ◽  
David Jon Furbish ◽  
Mark W. Schmeeckle

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