scholarly journals ASYMMETRY AND SKEWNESS IN THE BOTTOM BOUNDARY LAYER : SMALL SCALE EXPERIMENTS AND NUMERICAL MODEL

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 25
Author(s):  
Céline Berni ◽  
Leandro Suarez ◽  
Hervé Michallet ◽  
Eric Barthélemy

This study investigates the non-linearities of wave boundary layers in the surf zone. It mainly focuses on the acceleration skewness or asymmetry. Experiments [e.g. Grasso et al., 2011] show that asymmetry influences the sediment transport. Its influence lies in the fact that asymmetry in velocity (acceleration skewness) tends to transform into velocity skewness within the boundary layer. Analysis by Henderson et al. [2004] predicts a linear relation between Skb/Sk∞ and As∞/Sk∞ where Skb is the dimensionless skewness near the bed, Sk∞ the free-stream dimensionless skewness and As∞ the free-stream dimensionless asymmetry. Numerous experiments were carried out in the LEGI wave flume over a mobile bed composed of lightweight sediments. The quasi-random forcing is a repetition of 2 concatenated bichromatic wave packets. Vertical profiles of velocity are measured in the surf zone. A clear linear relation is shown between these two ratios. The experimental results are compared with the numerical results. A linear relation between skewness and asymmetry is also obtained.

Author(s):  
Dominic Van der A ◽  
Joep Van der Zanden ◽  
Ming Li ◽  
James Cooper ◽  
Simon Clark ◽  
...  

Multiphase CFD models recently have proved promising in modelling cross‐shore sediment transport and morphodynamics (Jacobsen et al 2014). However, modelling breaking wave turbulence remains a major challenge for these models, because it occurs at very different spatial and temporal length scales and involves the interaction between surface generated turbulence and turbulence generated in the bottom boundary layer. To an extent these challenges arise from a lack of appropriate experimental data, since most previous experimental studies involved breaking waves at small-scale, and have not permitted investigation of the turbulent boundary layer processes. Moreover, most existing studies have concentrated on regular waves, thereby excluding the flow and turbulence dynamics occurring at wave group time-scales under irregular waves within the surf zone. These limitations motivated a new experiment in the large-scale CIEM wave flume in Barcelona involving regular and irregular waves. The experiment was conducted in May-July 2017 within the HYDRALAB+ Transnational Access project HYBRID.


1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard Silvester ◽  
Geoffrey R. Mogridge

The physiography of Continental Shelves and their major composition of sediment indicate strongly their terrigenous origin and their smoothing by wave action This premise is supported by the geologic time over which waves have existed and the mass-transport velocity in these relatively shallow depths, particularly the net movement within the wave boundary layer at the bed A given wave tram arriving obliquely to the shore can transport material along the coast, both beyond the breaker line and within the surf zone It is shown that for equal over-all discharge in the two zones, the average sediment concentration offshore close to the bed need be reasonably small, indicating that transport near the beach could be a fraction of that from the breakers to the reach of the waves This latter limit is shown to extend at least half way across the Shelf, with possibilities of greater reach when more realistic prototype conditions are introduced into experiments.


Author(s):  
Yeulwoo Kim ◽  
Ryan C. Mieras ◽  
Zhen Cheng ◽  
Tian-Jian Hsu ◽  
Jack A. Puleo

Wave-driven sediment transport is one of the main drivers of beach morphodynamics. However, the creation of a comprehensive numerical model remains to be a challenging task due to complex mechanisms associated with unsteadiness and free-surface effects. Particularly for highly non-linear and skewed-asymmetric breaking waves, the boundary layer approximation (i.e., assuming horizontal pressure gradient is equal to local free-stream acceleration) is questionable. Moreover, wave-breaking-induced turbulence may approach the bed and further enhance sediment transport. Thus, a numerical model that can resolve the entire water column from the bottom boundary layer to the free-surface can be a powerful tool to understand wave-driven sediment transport.


2018 ◽  
Vol 855 ◽  
pp. 371-407 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. Cheng ◽  
D. I. Pullin ◽  
R. Samtaney

We present wall-resolved large-eddy simulation (LES) of flow with free-stream velocity $\boldsymbol{U}_{\infty }$ over a cylinder of diameter $D$ rotating at constant angular velocity $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FA}$ , with the focus on the lift crisis, which takes place at relatively high Reynolds number $Re_{D}=U_{\infty }D/\unicode[STIX]{x1D708}$ , where $\unicode[STIX]{x1D708}$ is the kinematic viscosity of the fluid. Two sets of LES are performed within the ( $Re_{D}$ , $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}$ )-plane with $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}=\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FA}D/(2U_{\infty })$ the dimensionless cylinder rotation speed. One set, at $Re_{D}=5000$ , is used as a reference flow and does not exhibit a lift crisis. Our main LES varies $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}$ in $0\leqslant \unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}\leqslant 2.0$ at fixed $Re_{D}=6\times 10^{4}$ . For $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}$ in the range $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}=0.48{-}0.6$ we find a lift crisis. This range is in agreement with experiment although the LES shows a deeper local minimum in the lift coefficient than the measured value. Diagnostics that include instantaneous surface portraits of the surface skin-friction vector field $\boldsymbol{C}_{\boldsymbol{f}}$ , spanwise-averaged flow-streamline plots, and a statistical analysis of local, near-surface flow reversal show that, on the leeward-bottom cylinder surface, the flow experiences large-scale reorganization as $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}$ increases through the lift crisis. At $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}=0.48$ the primary-flow features comprise a shear layer separating from that side of the cylinder that moves with the free stream and a pattern of oscillatory but largely attached flow zones surrounded by scattered patches of local flow separation/reattachment on the lee and underside of the cylinder surface. Large-scale, unsteady vortex shedding is observed. At $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}=0.6$ the flow has transitioned to a more ordered state where the small-scale separation/reattachment cells concentrate into a relatively narrow zone with largely attached flow elsewhere. This induces a low-pressure region which produces a sudden decrease in lift and hence the lift crisis. Through this process, the boundary layer does not show classical turbulence behaviour. As $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}$ is further increased at constant $Re_{D}$ , the localized separation zone dissipates with corresponding attached flow on most of the cylinder surface. The lift coefficient then resumes its increasing trend. A logarithmic region is found within the boundary layer at $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}=1.0$ .


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 90
Author(s):  
Peter Justensen ◽  
Jorgen Fredsoe ◽  
Rolf Deigaard

In the present paper the vertical distribution of turbulent kinetic energy k under broken waves is calculated by application of a one-equation turbulence model. The contributions to the energy level originate partly from the production in the wave boundary layer, partly from the production in the roller. Further on, the findings for k are used to calculate the vertical distribution of suspended sediment in broken waves.


Author(s):  
Yunfei Teng ◽  
Lin Lu ◽  
Liang Cheng, Feifei Tong ◽  
Guoqiang Tang

The boundary layer flow induced by surface waves has been extensively investigated due to its significance in engineering applications such as sediment transport and hydrodynamic forces on subsea structures. Several forms of defect functions (referred to as DF hereafter) were developed in the past decades, e.g. Sleath (1970, 1982), Nielsen (1985, 2016) and etc., due to their good efficiency in the description of the velocity distribution in one dimensional wave boundary layer (WBL). In this work, two forms of DFs are proposed: (i) DF-I describes the velocity distributions and bottom shear stresses in phase space with 4 model parameters; (ii) DF-II describes the maximum WBL profile with 3 model parameters. A number of datasets to support the validation of the DFs were obtained through experimental and numerical tests. Two sets of experiments were conducted individually in a free-surface-wave flume located in Dalian University of Technology and an oscillating-flow flume located in the University of Western Australia. For the free surface wave tests, the velocity was measured.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/RK-z0Q8rTjk


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 2 ◽  
Author(s):  
Martijn Henriquez ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Marcel Stive

To study onshore bar migration and the accompanying intra-wave sediment transport a wave flume experiment was conducted. The wave flume had a rigid bottom with a single bar profile. The focus of the experiment was to measure the hydrodynamics in the wave bottom boundary layer. The results show that the skewness of bottom stress is not only related to wave skewness but also to wave asymmetry.


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