scholarly journals HYDRODYNAMICS UNDER LARGE-SCALE REGULAR AND BICHROMATIC BREAKING WAVES

Author(s):  
Dominic Van der A ◽  
Joep Van der Zanden ◽  
Ming Li ◽  
James Cooper ◽  
Simon Clark ◽  
...  

Multiphase CFD models recently have proved promising in modelling cross‐shore sediment transport and morphodynamics (Jacobsen et al 2014). However, modelling breaking wave turbulence remains a major challenge for these models, because it occurs at very different spatial and temporal length scales and involves the interaction between surface generated turbulence and turbulence generated in the bottom boundary layer. To an extent these challenges arise from a lack of appropriate experimental data, since most previous experimental studies involved breaking waves at small-scale, and have not permitted investigation of the turbulent boundary layer processes. Moreover, most existing studies have concentrated on regular waves, thereby excluding the flow and turbulence dynamics occurring at wave group time-scales under irregular waves within the surf zone. These limitations motivated a new experiment in the large-scale CIEM wave flume in Barcelona involving regular and irregular waves. The experiment was conducted in May-July 2017 within the HYDRALAB+ Transnational Access project HYBRID.

2008 ◽  
Vol 26 (8) ◽  
pp. 2131-2142 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. K. Tsoukala ◽  
C. I. Moutzouris

Abstract. In the present paper a modified vorticity-based model for gas transfer under breaking waves in the absence of significant wind forcing is presented. A theoretically valid and practically applicable mathematical expression is suggested for the assessment of the oxygen transfer coefficient in the area of wave-breaking. The proposed model is based on the theory of surface renewal that expresses the oxygen transfer coefficient as a function of both the wave vorticity and the Reynolds wave number for breaking waves. Experimental data were collected in wave flumes of various scales: a) small-scale experiments were carried out using both a sloping beach and a rubble-mound breakwater in the wave flume of the Laboratory of Harbor Works, NTUA, Greece; b) large-scale experiments were carried out with a sloping beach in the wind-wave flume of Delft Hydraulics, the Netherlands, and with a three-layer rubble mound breakwater in the Schneideberg Wave Flume of the Franzius Institute, University of Hannover, Germany. The experimental data acquired from both the small- and large-scale experiments were in good agreement with the proposed model. Although the apparent transfer coefficients from the large-scale experiments were lower than those determined from the small-scale experiments, the actual oxygen transfer coefficients, as calculated using a discretized form of the transport equation, are in the same order of magnitude for both the small- and large-scale experiments. The validity of the proposed model is compared to experimental results from other researchers. Although the results are encouraging, additional research is needed, to incorporate the influence of bubble mediated gas exchange, before these results are used for an environmental friendly design of harbor works, or for projects involving waste disposal at sea.


The aim of this paper is to elucidate the microwave reflectivity properties of small-scale breaking water waves, which are a widespread feature of the wind-driven air-sea interface. By using a laboratory wave flume in which a small-scale breaking wave was held stationary against an opposing current, a detailed investigation of the microwave reflectivity at X-band revealed significantly enhanced levels of local backscattered power from the crest regions of small-scale breaking waves. A surprising level of organization is discovered in the hydrodynamic disturbances generated in such breaking zones. Their wavenumber-frequency spectral properties are reported in detail, from which it is concluded that the microwave reflectivity is consistent with Bragg scattering from these disturbances. The application of these findings to active microwave remote sensing of the oceans is discussed.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 25
Author(s):  
Céline Berni ◽  
Leandro Suarez ◽  
Hervé Michallet ◽  
Eric Barthélemy

This study investigates the non-linearities of wave boundary layers in the surf zone. It mainly focuses on the acceleration skewness or asymmetry. Experiments [e.g. Grasso et al., 2011] show that asymmetry influences the sediment transport. Its influence lies in the fact that asymmetry in velocity (acceleration skewness) tends to transform into velocity skewness within the boundary layer. Analysis by Henderson et al. [2004] predicts a linear relation between Skb/Sk∞ and As∞/Sk∞ where Skb is the dimensionless skewness near the bed, Sk∞ the free-stream dimensionless skewness and As∞ the free-stream dimensionless asymmetry. Numerous experiments were carried out in the LEGI wave flume over a mobile bed composed of lightweight sediments. The quasi-random forcing is a repetition of 2 concatenated bichromatic wave packets. Vertical profiles of velocity are measured in the surf zone. A clear linear relation is shown between these two ratios. The experimental results are compared with the numerical results. A linear relation between skewness and asymmetry is also obtained.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 56
Author(s):  
Junichi Otsuka ◽  
Yasunori Watanabe

In this study, suspended sediment concentration and velocity in surf zones was measured in a small-scale wave flume with three breaker types (plunging, spilling and intermediate) using an optical concentration sensor and an ultrasonic velocity profiler (UVP). The sediment pickup rate was also calculated from the depth-averaged concentration and the wave energy flux dissipation rate. In plunging breakers, relatively large amounts of sediment are suspended in the transition region due to strong three-dimensional turbulent flows generated by large-scale vortices. In spilling breakers, sediment concentration is lower than that seen in plunging breakers because smaller- scale vortices typically develop below the water surface in the transition region. Concentrations in both breaker types remain at lower levels in bore regions because the vortices fully develop into weak turbulent bores. Comparison in the same range of wave energy flux dissipation rates showed that the sediment pickup rates in these small-scale experiments were approximately 103 times greater than those calculated by Goda (2010) using various data compiled from large-scale experiments and field observations.


Author(s):  
Joep van der Zanden ◽  
Dominic A. Van der A ◽  
Tom O'Donoghue ◽  
David Hurther ◽  
Ivan Caceres ◽  
...  

This paper presents results obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focused at measuring hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes in the wave breaking region. The experiment involved monochromatic plunging breaking waves over a mobile bed barred profile consisting of D50 = 0.24 mm sand. Vertical profiles of velocity, turbulence, sand concentration and sand fluxes were measured at 12 cross-shore locations, covering the shoaling region up to the inner surf zone. Particularly high-resolution profiles were obtained near the bed within the wave bottom boundary layer, using an acoustic sediment concentration and velocity profiler (ACVP). Sheet flow concentration and particle velocities were measured at two locations near the bar crest using two conductivity-based concentration measurement tanks (CCM+). Total transport rates, obtained from the evolving bed profile measurements, were decomposed into suspended and bedload transport contributions across the bar. The present paper presents a summary of the key findings of the experiment, which are used to discuss existing approaches for modeling suspended and bed load transport in the surf zone.


2013 ◽  
Vol 715 ◽  
pp. 477-498 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zambri Harun ◽  
Jason P. Monty ◽  
Romain Mathis ◽  
Ivan Marusic

AbstractResearch into high-Reynolds-number turbulent boundary layers in recent years has brought about a renewed interest in the larger-scale structures. It is now known that these structures emerge more prominently in the outer region not only due to increased Reynolds number (Metzger & Klewicki, Phys. Fluids, vol. 13(3), 2001, pp. 692–701; Hutchins & Marusic, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 579, 2007, pp. 1–28), but also when a boundary layer is exposed to an adverse pressure gradient (Bradshaw, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 29, 1967, pp. 625–645; Lee & Sung, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 639, 2009, pp. 101–131). The latter case has not received as much attention in the literature. As such, this work investigates the modification of the large-scale features of boundary layers subjected to zero, adverse and favourable pressure gradients. It is first shown that the mean velocities, turbulence intensities and turbulence production are significantly different in the outer region across the three cases. Spectral and scale decomposition analyses confirm that the large scales are more energized throughout the entire adverse pressure gradient boundary layer, especially in the outer region. Although more energetic, there is a similar spectral distribution of energy in the wake region, implying the geometrical structure of the outer layer remains universal in all cases. Comparisons are also made of the amplitude modulation of small scales by the large-scale motions for the three pressure gradient cases. The wall-normal location of the zero-crossing of small-scale amplitude modulation is found to increase with increasing pressure gradient, yet this location continues to coincide with the large-scale energetic peak wall-normal location (as has been observed in zero pressure gradient boundary layers). The amplitude modulation effect is found to increase as pressure gradient is increased from favourable to adverse.


2018 ◽  
Vol 856 ◽  
pp. 135-168 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. T. Salesky ◽  
W. Anderson

A number of recent studies have demonstrated the existence of so-called large- and very-large-scale motions (LSM, VLSM) that occur in the logarithmic region of inertia-dominated wall-bounded turbulent flows. These regions exhibit significant streamwise coherence, and have been shown to modulate the amplitude and frequency of small-scale inner-layer fluctuations in smooth-wall turbulent boundary layers. In contrast, the extent to which analogous modulation occurs in inertia-dominated flows subjected to convective thermal stratification (low Richardson number) and Coriolis forcing (low Rossby number), has not been considered. And yet, these parameter values encompass a wide range of important environmental flows. In this article, we present evidence of amplitude modulation (AM) phenomena in the unstably stratified (i.e. convective) atmospheric boundary layer, and link changes in AM to changes in the topology of coherent structures with increasing instability. We perform a suite of large eddy simulations spanning weakly ($-z_{i}/L=3.1$) to highly convective ($-z_{i}/L=1082$) conditions (where$-z_{i}/L$is the bulk stability parameter formed from the boundary-layer depth$z_{i}$and the Obukhov length $L$) to investigate how AM is affected by buoyancy. Results demonstrate that as unstable stratification increases, the inclination angle of surface layer structures (as determined from the two-point correlation of streamwise velocity) increases from$\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FE}\approx 15^{\circ }$for weakly convective conditions to nearly vertical for highly convective conditions. As$-z_{i}/L$increases, LSMs in the streamwise velocity field transition from long, linear updrafts (or horizontal convective rolls) to open cellular patterns, analogous to turbulent Rayleigh–Bénard convection. These changes in the instantaneous velocity field are accompanied by a shift in the outer peak in the streamwise and vertical velocity spectra to smaller dimensionless wavelengths until the energy is concentrated at a single peak. The decoupling procedure proposed by Mathiset al.(J. Fluid Mech., vol. 628, 2009a, pp. 311–337) is used to investigate the extent to which amplitude modulation of small-scale turbulence occurs due to large-scale streamwise and vertical velocity fluctuations. As the spatial attributes of flow structures change from streamwise to vertically dominated, modulation by the large-scale streamwise velocity decreases monotonically. However, the modulating influence of the large-scale vertical velocity remains significant across the stability range considered. We report, finally, that amplitude modulation correlations are insensitive to the computational mesh resolution for flows forced by shear, buoyancy and Coriolis accelerations.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jianhao Zhang ◽  
Paquita Zuidema

Abstract. Many studies examining shortwave-absorbing aerosol-cloud interactions over the southeast Atlantic apply a seasonal averaging. This disregards a meteorology that raises the mean altitude of the smoke layer from July to October. This study details the month-by-month changes in cloud properties and the large-scale environment as a function of the biomass-burning aerosol loading at Ascension Island from July to October, based on measurements from Ascension Island (8º S, 14.5º W), satellite retrievals and reanalysis. In July and August, variability in the smoke loading predominantly occurs in the boundary layer. During both months, the low-cloud fraction is less and is increasingly cumuliform when more smoke is present, with the exception of a late morning boundary layer deepening that encourages a short-lived cloud development. The meteorology varies little, suggesting aerosol-cloud interactions consistent with a boundary-layer semi-direct effect can explain the cloudiness changes. September marks a transition month during which mid-latitude disturbances can intrude into the Atlantic subtropics, constraining the land-based anticyclonic circulation transporting free-tropospheric aerosol to closer to the coast. Stronger boundary layer winds help deepen, dry, and cool the boundary layer near the main stratocumulus deck compared to that on days with high smoke loadings, with stratocumulus reducing everywhere but at the northern deck edge. Longwave cooling rates generated by a sharp water vapor gradient at the aerosol layer top facilitates small-scale vertical mixing, and could help to maintain a better-mixed September free troposphere. The October meteorology is more singularly dependent on the strength of the free-tropospheric winds advecting aerosol offshore. Free-tropospheric aerosol is less, and moisture variability more, compared to September. Low-level clouds increase and are more stratiform, when the smoke loadings are higher. The increased free-tropospheric moisture can help sustain the clouds through reducing evaporative drying during cloud-top entrainment. Enhanced subsidence above the coastal upwelling region increasing cloud droplet number concentrations may further prolong cloud lifetime through microphysical interactions. Reduced subsidence underneath stronger free-tropospheric winds at Ascension supports slightly higher cloud tops during smokier conditions. Overall the monthly changes in the large-scale aerosol and moisture vertical structure act to amplify the seasonal cycle in low-cloud amount and morphology, raising a climate importance as cloudiness changes dominate changes in the top-of-atmosphere radiation budget.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Diana De Padova ◽  
Michele Mossa

Turbulence and undertow currents play an important role in surf-zone mixing and transport processes; therefore, their study is fundamental for the understanding of nearshore dynamics and the related planning and management of coastal engineering activities. Pioneering studies qualitatively described the features of breakers in the outer region of the surf zone. More detailed information on the velocity field under spilling and plunging breakers can be found in experimental works, where single-point measurement techniques, such as Hot Wire Anemometry and Laser Doppler Anemometry (LDA), were used to provide maps of the flow field in a time-averaged or ensemble-averaged sense. Moreover, the advent of non-intrusive measuring techniques, such as Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) provided accurate and detailed instantaneous spatial maps of the flow field. However, by correlating spatial gradients of the measured velocity components, the instantaneous vorticity maps could be deduced. Moreover, the difficulties of measuring velocity due to the existence of air bubbles entrained by the plunging jet have hindered many experimental studies on wave breaking encouraging the development of numerical model as useful tool to assisting in the interpretation and even the discovery of new phenomena. Therefore, the development of an WCSPH method using the RANS equations coupled with a two-equation k–ε model for turbulent stresses has been employed to study of the turbulence and vorticity distributions in in the breaking region observing that these two aspects greatly influence many coastal processes, such as undertow currents, sediment transport and action on maritime structures.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 148
Author(s):  
G.R. Mogridge ◽  
W.W. Jamieson

Cooling water from a power generating station in Eastern Canada is pumped to an outfall and distributed into the ocean through discharge ports in the sidewalls of a diffuser cap. The cap is essentially a shell-type structure consisting of a submerged circular cylinder 26.5 ft in diameter and 14 ft high. It is located in 25 ft of water at low water level and 54 ft at high water level. Horizontal forces, vertical forces and overturning moments exerted by waves on a 1:36 scale model of the diffuser cap were measured with and without cooling water discharging from the outfall. Tests were run with regular and irregular waves producing both non-breaking and breaking wave loads on the diffuser cap. The overturning moments measured on the diffuser cap were up to 150 percent greater than those on a solid submerged cylinder sealed to the seabed. Unlike sealed cylinders, all of the wave loads measured on the relatively open structure reached maximum values at approximately the same time. The largest wave loads were measured on the diffuser structure when it was subjected to spilling breakers at low water level. For a given wave height, the spilling breakers caused wave loads up to 100 percent greater than those due to non-breaking waves.


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