Effects of fragrance compounds on growth of the silkworm Bombyx mori

Due to the contamination and biological toxicity of some fragrance compounds, the environmental and ecological problems of such compounds have attracted more and more attention. However, studies of the toxicity of fragrance compounds for insects have been limited. The toxicity of 48 fragrance compounds for the silkworm Bombyx mori were investigated in this study. All of the fragrance compounds examined had no acute toxicity for B. mori larvae, but eight of them (menthol, maltol, musk xylene, musk tibeten, dibutyl sulfide, nerolidol, ethyl vanillin, and α-amylcinnamaldehyde) exhibited chronic and lethal toxicity with LC50 values from 20 to 120 µM. In a long-term feeding study, musk tibeten, nerolidol, and musk xylene showed significant growth regulatory activity. They were also extremely harmful to the cocooning of B. mori, resulting in small, thin, and loose cocoons. Two important insect hormones, namely, juvenile hormone (JH) and 20-hydroxyecdysone (20-E), were quantified in hemolymph following chronic exposure to musk tibeten, nerolidol, and musk xylene, respectively. Musk tibeten significantly increased JH titer and decreased the 20-E titer in hemolymph, and musk xylene had a significant inhibitory effect on JH titer and increased 20-E titer. Although nerolidol had no effect on hormone levels, exogenous JH mimic nerolidol increased the physiological effects of JH and significantly slowed the growth rate of B. mori larvae. The results showed that these fragrance compounds could interfere with the insect endocrine system, leading to death and abnormal growth. The risk to insects of residual fragrance compounds in the environment is worthy of attention.

Using the Natural Fixative from Canarium Resin of Vietnam

Aim and Objectives: Nowadays, the fixative substance from natural materials is gradually replacing the fixative substance that has been synthesized from chemicals. The purpose of the study in this research is that we created a natural fragrance from Vietnamese raw material with a fixative from Canarium Album (Lour) as a natural fixative to replace artificial fixative. Canarium plant is scientifically known as Canarium Album (Lour) Raensch of the Burseraceae family. Canarium Album L. is distributed in most of Northern provinces, central Highlands, and Southeast of Vietnam. Materials and Methods: The method of this process is resin extraction by volatile solvents. We use a knife to cut into the trunk and let the resin run out, then harvest this resin to make fixative. The resin is dissolved in alcohol 96% and the distilled alcohol is removed to obtain absolute Canarium. Evaluation method of the ability of absolute Canarium is performed by comparing it with other fixatives in fragrances. Raw canarium resins is taken directly from canarium plants then refined absolute canarium as the natural fixative. We use this fixative substance in combinations of floral, woody smells and comparison with traditional artificial fixative as Musk ketone, Musk xylene, Musk ambrette. Results: The comparison results show that the ability to keep the fragrance of scent is lower than musk ambrette, musk ketone but it is better than musk xylene. Thus, canarium resin can be used as a natural fixative to replace artificial fixative in fragrance. Conclusions: Through research and experiment, we can see Canarium resin is precious. It can be used as a good fixative in aromatherapy. This is a natural resin, a kind of resource available in Vietnam. Therefore, it is recommended for further research, exploitation, and effective use of this resource.

Synthesis of Deuterated Surrogate Standards for the Analysis of Legally Regulated Substances in Cosmetics

<p>The presence of harmful substances in cosmetic products is regulated in most countries. In the European Union the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 lays down the requirements for the marketing of cosmetic products. Among others, important families of compounds restricted in the Regulation are musks, allergenic fragrances and phthalates. To ensure product safety, improved analytical methods capable of reliably and reproducibly detecting the presence of traces of prohibited and/or restricted ingredients in raw materials and finished products are required. </p> <p>For the continuous improvement of the reliability of the analytical methods developed to check the compliance of cosmetic products with the Regulation, the use of appropriate surrogate standards or contaminants (substances that are added to the samples to be analyzed to establish the recovery and the reproducibility of the quantification of the analytes) are of utmost importance. One of the best kinds of surrogate standards are isotopically labeled analogs of the analytes of interest. In this work, several synthetic methods have been developed to prepare isotopically labeled analogs of atranol, chloroatranol, di-n-octylphthalate, musk xylene, and musk ambrette, which are restricted substances in cosmetic articles.</p>

Synthesis of Deuterated Surrogate Standards for the Analysis of Legally Regulated Substances in Cosmetics

<p>The presence of harmful substances in cosmetic products is regulated in most countries. In the European Union the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 lays down the requirements for the marketing of cosmetic products. Among others, important families of compounds restricted in the Regulation are musks, allergenic fragrances and phthalates. To ensure product safety, improved analytical methods capable of reliably and reproducibly detecting the presence of traces of prohibited and/or restricted ingredients in raw materials and finished products are required. </p> <p>For the continuous improvement of the reliability of the analytical methods developed to check the compliance of cosmetic products with the Regulation, the use of appropriate surrogate standards or contaminants (substances that are added to the samples to be analyzed to establish the recovery and the reproducibility of the quantification of the analytes) are of utmost importance. One of the best kinds of surrogate standards are isotopically labeled analogs of the analytes of interest. In this work, several synthetic methods have been developed to prepare isotopically labeled analogs of atranol, chloroatranol, di-n-octylphthalate, musk xylene, and musk ambrette, which are restricted substances in cosmetic articles.</p>