TRADITIONAL METHODS OF PRODUCING NATURAL DYES AND WOOL DYEING AMONG THE INGUSH IN THE 19TH - EARLY 20TH CENTURIES

В статье рассматриваются традиционные способы производства природных красителей, раскрываются особенности технологии правильного крашения с применением натуральных ингредиентов. Антропология цвета в культуре ингушей базировалась на двухуровневой основе: с одной стороны, она была связана с естественно-средовыми условиями окружения, с другой - формировалась под влиянием исторической практики и жизнедеятельности народа. Рассматриваются технологические издержки, которые возникают при производстве натуральных красителей в домашних условиях. Отмечается, что к началу ХХ в. на территории Северного Кавказа происходит постепенный переход от применения натуральных красителей к более дешевым и менее трудоемким фабричным аналогам. Автором представлен систематизированный перечень местных красильных растений и деревьев, дается информация о красильных свойствах минералов и технологии их использования в кустарном производстве ингушей в XIX-XX вв. в процессе крашения шерсти. На основе проведенного анализа делается вывод о том, что в современных условиях происходит утрата традиционного опыта производства натуральных красителей и крашения шерсти у ингушей. The paper discusses traditional methods for the production of natural dyes, the features of the technology of correct dyeing. The anthropology of color in the culture of the Ingush was based on a two-level basis: on the one hand, it was associated with the natural environmental conditions, and on the other hand, it was formed under the influence of historical practice and life. The technological costs that arise in the production of natural dyes at home are considered. The research shows that by the beginning of the twentieth century in the North Caucasus there is a gradual transition from the use of natural dyes to cheaper and less laborious factory analogues. The author presents a systematized list of local dyeing plants and trees, provides information on the dyeing properties of minerals and the technology of their use in the handicraft production of the Ingush in the 19th - 20th centuries in the process of dyeing wool. Based on the analysis, the author concludes that in modern conditions there is a loss of traditional experience in the production of natural dyes and wool dyeing among the Ingush.

Characterization of Pigments from Malus domestica Leaves for Wool Dyeing

The study will present results of chemical analysis of mass spectrometry, evaluating the content of pigments in M. domestica leaves dyeing solution and in dyed woollen yarn nowadays. Yarn was dyed with fresh leaves of M. domestica tree. Before dyeing the yarn was treated with potassium aluminium sulphate mordant. Dyestuffs from the yarn were extracted in compliance with modified hydrochloric method of hydrolysis. Extracts were analysed by ultra high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector and mass spectrometry (UHPLC-DAD-MS) for identification of the pigments. Phytochemical screening of dyeing solution of the M. domestica leaves showed presence of dihydrochalcones (phloretin, phlorizin), flavan-3-ols (dimeric B type proanthocyanidin, catechin, epicatechin, gallocatehin, epigallocatechin), flavanols (quercetin derivatives: hyperoside, rutin, quercetrin), phenolic acids and other compounds.

The effect of mordanting method on the absorption behavior of natural dyes

Purpose This work aims to study the effect of mordanting method as pre-mordanting (on-chrome), meta-mordanting (meta-chrome) and post-mordanting (after-chrome) on wool dyeing with madder natural dye without tannin and pomegranates peel, as a natural dye contains tannin. Design/methodology/approach The woolen yarn was dyed with madder and pomegranate peel natural dyes by three methods as pre-mordant, meta-mordant and pos-mordant. The color parameters and reflectance spectra of dyed samples were analyzed by using derivative spectroscopy and the principal component analysis (PCA) techniques. Findings The obtained results indicate that the color difference between the samples dyed with madder by pre-mordanting, and the samples dyed by other methods is more than the color difference between the samples dyed by meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. However, the color difference between samples dyed with pomegranate peel by pre-mordanting and meta-mordanting methods is less compared to other pairs. Also, analysis of reflectance spectra and color depth (K/S) values indicate that the color depth of dyed sample with madder by pre-mordanting method is more than other dyeing methods. But, the color depth of sample dyed with pomegranate peel by post-mordanting method is less compared to other methods. The analysis of first-, second-, third- and fourth-order derivatives of reflectance spectra and the study of the first, second, third and fourth PCs of reflectance spectra indicate that the reflectance of dyed samples with madder and pomegranates peel depends on the mordanting method. Originality/value Evaluation of the effect of mordanting method on color and reflectance of wool dyed with madder and pomegranates peel natural dyes using derivative spectroscopy and the PCA techniques

Adsorption-Desorption, Thermogravimetric Analysis and Antimicrobial Activity of Purple Brassica oleracea var. capitata F. rubra (Purple Cabbage) as Sustainable Natural Wool Dye

This study focussed on the dyeing wool fabrics with colourant purple Brassica oleracea var. capitata F. rubra. The process of dyeing was taken place at 60 ºC and pH 5. Adsorption and desorption isotherms experiments investigated by Langmuir and Frendulich models, Langmuir was fitted with the experimental data dyeing adsorption than Freundlich model. The adsorption kinetic of dyeing experiments was studied by using pseudo-first and pseudo-second models and pseudo-second model was more suitable for wool dyeing experiment. The thermal stability of the dye (purple Brassica oleracea var. capitata F. rubra) was studied using thermogravimetric and differential thermal (TGA/DTG) analysis. The antimicrobial activity of purple cabbage methanolic extract recorded of high exhibited Staphylococus aureus (17-18 mm), weak against fungi (11-12 mm), moderate against Bacillus subtilis (14-15 mm) and no results against Escherichia coli. The results obtained from aqueous and petroleum were negative.