Transformation of Random Wave Spectrum on Beaches

1979 ◽  
Vol 105 (4) ◽  
pp. 711-717
Author(s):  
Cheng Y. Yang ◽  
Yun Hai Chen
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug

This article provides a simple analytical method for giving estimates of random wave-driven drag forces on near-bed vegetation in shallow water from deepwater wind conditions. Results are exemplified using a Pierson–Moskowitz model wave spectrum for wind waves with the mean wind speed at the 10 m elevation above the sea surface as the parameter. The significant value of the drag force within a sea state of random waves is given, and an example typical for field conditions is presented. This method should serve as a useful tool for assessing random wave-induced drag force on vegetation in coastal zones and estuaries based on input from deepwater wind conditions.


Author(s):  
James M. Kaihatu ◽  
John T. Goertz ◽  
Samira Ardani ◽  
Alex Sheremet

Images of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at landfall shows a leading edge marked by short waves (“fission” waves). These waves appear to be cnoidal in shape and of a temporal and spatial scale in line with the longest swell present in the region, and may interact with the longer waves in the background random wave spectrum. As part of a comprehensive series of experiments, the Large Wave Flume at Oregon State University (USA) was used to generate and measure the properties of cnoidal, random, and combined cnoidal-random wave trains. Both the nonlinear energy transfer characteristics (via bispectral analysis) and dissipation characteristics (via a proxy dissipation function) are studied for all generated wave conditions. It is generally determined that the characteristics of the cnoidal wave dominate the combined cnoidal-random wave signals if the energy of the cnoidal wave is at least equal to that of the random wave.


2015 ◽  
Vol 45 (7) ◽  
pp. 1897-1916 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Barbariol ◽  
Alvise Benetazzo ◽  
Sandro Carniel ◽  
Mauro Sclavo

AbstractWave observations and modeling have recently demonstrated that wave extremes of short-crested seas are poorly predicted by statistics of time records. Indeed, the highest waves pertain to wave groups at focusing that have space–time dynamics. Therefore, the statistical prediction of extremes of short-crested sea states should rely on the multidimensional random wave fields’ assumption. To adapt wave extreme statistics to the space–time domain, theoretical models using parameters of the directional wave spectrum have been recently developed. In this paper, the influence of metocean forcings (wind conditions, ambient current, and bottom depth) on these parameters and hence on wave extremes is studied with a twofold strategy. First, parametric spectral formulations [Pierson–Moskowitz and Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) frequency spectra with cos2 directional distribution function] are considered to represent the dependence of wave extremes upon wind speed, fetch, and space domain size. Afterward, arbitrary conditions are simulated by using the SWAN numerical model adapted to store the spectral parameters, and the effects on extremes of current- and depth-induced shoaling are investigated. Preliminarily, the space–time extremes prediction model adopted is assessed by means of numerical simulations of Gaussian random seas. Compared to the significant wave height of the sea state and for a given space domain size, results show that space–time extremes are enhanced by opposite currents, whereas they are weakened by increasing wind conditions (wind speed and fetch) and by depth-induced shoaling. In this respect, the remarkable contribution to wave extremes of the size of the space domain is substantiated.


1980 ◽  
Vol 20 (01) ◽  
pp. 5-14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kim J. Vandiver

Abstract A method is presented for predicting the damping-controlled response of a structure at a known natural frequency to random wave forces. The principal advantage of the proposed method over those in current use proposed method over those in current use is that explicit calculation of wave forces is not required in the analysis. This is accomplished by application of the principle of reciprocity: that the linear wave force spectrum for a particular vibration mode is proportional to the radiation (wave-making) proportional to the radiation (wave-making) damping of that mode. Several example calculations are presented including the prediction of the heave response of a prediction of the heave response of a tension-leg platform. The directional distribution of the wave spectrum included in the analysis. Introduction This paper introduces a simple procedure for estimating the dynamic response of a structure at each of its natural frequencies to the random excitation of ocean waves. The principal advantage of the proposed method is that the explicit calculation of wave forces has been eliminated from the analysis. This is made possible by a direct applications of the reciprocity relations for ocean waves, originally established by Haskind and described by Newman, in a form that is easy to implement. Briefly stated, fore many structures it is possible to derive a simple expression for the wave force spectrum in terms of the radiation damping and the prescribed wave amplitude spectrum. In general, such a substitution is of little use because the radiation damping coefficient may be equally difficult to find. However, the substitution leads to a very useful result when the dynamically amplified response at a natural frequency is of concern. In such cases it is shown that, contrary to popular belief, the response is not inversely proportional to the total damping but is, in fact, proportional to the ratio of the radiation damping to the total damping. Therefore, in the absence of a reliable estimate of either the total damping or the ratio of the radiation component to the total, an upper bound estimate of the response still may be achieved because of the existence of this upper bound is one of the key contributions of this paper.Linear wave theory is assumed; therefore, excitation caused by drag forces is not considered. However, for many structures drag excitation is negligible except for very large wave events. In the design process extreme events are modeled deterministically process extreme events are modeled deterministically by means of a prescribed design wave and not stochastically as is done here. In many circumstances linear wave forces will dominate, and the results shown here will be applicable. Although drag-exciting forces are not included, damping resulting from hydrodynamic drag is included. Wave diffraction effects are extremely difficult to calculate. This analysis includes diffraction effects but never requires explicit evaluation of them.It has been recognized that directional spreading of the wave spectrum is an important consideration in the estimation of dynamic response. In this paper such effects are accounted for in closed-form expressions. The evaluation of the expressions requires knowledge of estimates of the variation of the modal exciting force with wave incidence angle. However, only the relative variation of the modal exciting force as a percent of that at an arbitrarily chosen reference angle is required. Evaluation of the wave force in absolute terms still is not required. SPEJ p. 5


2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (2) ◽  
pp. 243-255 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dingxin Leng ◽  
Haiyan Xiao ◽  
Lei Sun ◽  
Guijie Liu ◽  
Xiaojie Wang ◽  
...  

Wave loading is one of the leading factors contributing to fatigue damage of offshore platforms. Vibrations in marine platforms due to nonlinear hydrodynamic forces can reduce platform productivity, endanger safety, and affect serviceability. This article presents numerical evaluation of a magnetorheological elastomer device for wave-induced vibration reduction of offshore platform. Random wave loadings are estimated by wave spectrum analysis and Morison’s equations. By altering field-induced stiffness of magnetorheological elastomers and non-resonance control strategy, the wave-induced vibration of offshore platform is effectively reduced, and the magnetorheological elastomer device presents strong control robustness under various wave loadings. This work indicates that magnetorheological elastomer-base device may open a new insight for vibration mitigation of ocean structures.


Author(s):  
Zhong-Tao Wang ◽  
Mao-Tian Luan ◽  
Shu-Jie Liu

The analysis of dynamic response of seabed due to wave loading is of practical significance in design and construction of marine structures and offshore installations. Recently considerable efforts for this problem have been made with growing interest by many researchers and marine engineers, and many representative results have been achieved. It is obvious that wave loading plays a significant role in the evaluation of construction safety and seabed instability. But there are few results of research and engineering design that can consider the feature of wave loading and soil parameters together. The purpose of this paper is to establish a reasonable numerical model to simulate dynamic response of seabed under random wave loading. The dynamic relation between random wave and seabed can also be described through this model. Comparative studies are principally made between the proposed analysis considering actual feature of ocean situation and conventional analysis based on linear theory of regular wave. The effect of randomness of wave loading on the dynamic response of seabed is investigated. The necessity is also discussed about considering the influence of damping energy on propagating wave by porous seabed. In the conventional analyses of seabed dynamics, wave loading is basically treated as a deterministic process and is usually taken into consideration by using linear theory of regular wave. In fact, ocean wave is of intrinsic randomness in both time sequences and spatial distribution. The random nature of both wave and wave-induced loading will subsequently affect dynamic behavior of seabed. In this paper, the analyses which can consider characteristics of randomness of wave loading and dynamic interaction between seabed and random waves, are formulated in a stochastic framework. Integrated numerical analysis model is established by employing wave spectrum of AVERAGE JONSWAP. The comparative studies are conducted among the methods of conventional random analysis, proposed random analysis, and linear regular wave theory. The results show that the amplitudes of dynamic response of seabed subjected to random wave loading are larger than that of regular linear wave loading. Therefore the stochastic feature of wave loading has to be duly taken into account in the analysis for dynamic response of seabed.


1985 ◽  
Vol 107 (4) ◽  
pp. 450-454 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. R. Jefferys ◽  
B. S. Samra

A predictor of the future motion of a vessel subject to random wave and wind forces, would have a variety of applications in ocean engineering. Most previous work has assumed that the wave spectrum is known and that the vessel is modeled accurately; both factors affect the predictor performance strongly. In practice, the relevant data is difficult to measure on a manoeuvering vessel and can change significantly with operating conditions. Here were describe the application of an adaptive algorithm which predicts the future of a signal from its history. The predictor adapts to the signal and varies its parameters to optimise the prediction. Operating on a signal with a stationary spectrum, the predictor tends to a steady performance; if the spectrum changes, the predictor quickly adjusts to the new situation. We illustrate the performance of the system with examples.


A simplified nonlinear spectral transport equation, for narrowband Gaussian random surface wavetrains, slowly varying in space and time, is derived fron the weakly nonlinear equations of Davey & Stewartson. The stability of an initially homogeneous wave spectrum, to small oblique wave perturbations is studied for a range of spectral bandwidths, resulting in an integral equation for the amplification rate of the disturbance. It is shown for random deep water waves that instability of the wavetrain can exist, as in the corresponding deterministic Benjamin-Feir (B-F) problem, provided that the normalized spectral bandwidth σ / k 0 is less than twice the root mean square wave slope, multiplied by a function of the perturbation wave angle ϕ = arctan ( m/l ). A further condition for instability is that the angle ϕ be less than 35.26°. It is demonstrated that the amplification rate, associated with the B-F type instability, diminishes and then vanishes as the correlation length scale of the random wave field ( ca . 1/ σ )is reduced to the order of the characteristic length scale for modulational instability of the wave system.


Kapal ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 17 (3) ◽  
pp. 114-122
Author(s):  
Nurman Firdaus ◽  
Baharuddin Ali ◽  
Mochammad Nasir ◽  
M Muryadin

The wave height parameter in ocean waves is one of the important information for a marine structure design. The present paper investigates the results of wave heights distribution from laboratory-generated for single sea state. Data of the random wave time series collected at the ocean basin are analyzed using the wave spectrum and compared with the theoretical spectrum in this study. The random wave data is varied with four sea states consisting of sea states 3, 4, 5 and 6 obtained from laboratory measurements. The parameter conditions of generated sea waves are represented by a value of significant wave height and wave peak period in the range of sea states. The individual wave heights data in each sea state are presented in the form of exceedance probability distribution and the predictions using a linear model. This study aims to estimate the wave heights distribution using the Rayleigh and Weibull distribution model. Furthermore, the accuracy of the wave heights distribution data's prediction results in each sea state has been compared and examined for both models. The applied linear models indicate similar and reasonable estimations on the observed data trends.


Author(s):  
Felice Arena ◽  
Vincenzo Fiamma

The paper deals with wave forces on vertical and horizontal cylinders through the Morison’s equation. In particular, the hydrodynamics coefficients on cylinders are investigated by means of two small scale field experiments in the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL) of the Mediterranea University of Reggio Calabria, by analyzing two stationary random processes of time: the measured wave force Fa(t), and the wave force calculated with the Morison equation Fc(t). The kinematics in the Morison’s equation is obtained with the theory of wind-generated waves from the directional wave spectrum obtained from measurements of surface waves. Starting from the measurements a new approach is proposed for the evaluation of the hydrodynamic coefficients of Morison’s forces for random sea waves. Finally, the distributions of the peaks of the random wave forces, Fa(t), and Fc(t), is achieved.


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