A Coupled-Mode Technique for the Prediction of Wave-Induced Set-Up and Mean Flow in Variable Bathymetry Domains

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
Th. P. Gerostathis ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Environment ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Flow Equations ◽  
Coupled Mode ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Wave Induced

In the present work, a complete, phase-resolving wave model is coupled with an iterative solver of the mean-flow equations in intermediate and shallow water depth, permitting an accurate calculation of wave set-up and wave-induced current in intermediate and shallow water environment with possibly steep bathymetric variations. The wave model is based on the consistent coupled-mode system of equations, developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions. This model improves the predictions of the mild-slope equation, permitting the treatment of wave propagation in regions with steep bottom slope and/or large curvature. In addition, it supports the consistent calculation of wave velocity up to and including the bottom boundary. The above wave model has been further extended to include the effects of bottom friction and wave breaking, which are important factors for the calculation of radiation stresses on decreasing depth. The latter have been used as forcing terms to the mean flow equations in order to predict wave-induced set up and mean flow in open and closed domains. Numerical results obtained by the present model are presented and compared with predictions obtained by the mild-slope approximation (Massel & Gourlay 2000), and experimental data (Gourlay 1996).

Wave-induced mean flows in rotating shallow water with uniform potential vorticity

2018 ◽  
Vol 839 ◽  
pp. 408-429 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jim Thomas ◽  
Oliver Bühler ◽  
K. Shafer Smith
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Potential Vorticity ◽  
Rotation Rate ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Leading Order ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Wave Fields ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Rotating Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Induced

Theoretical and numerical computations of the wave-induced mean flow in rotating shallow water with uniform potential vorticity are presented, with an eye towards applications in small-scale oceanography where potential-vorticity anomalies are often weak compared to the waves. The asymptotic computations are based on small-amplitude expansions and time averaging over the fast wave scale to define the mean flow. Importantly, we do not assume that the mean flow is balanced, i.e. we compute the full mean-flow response at leading order. Particular attention is paid to the concept of modified diagnostic relations, which link the leading-order Lagrangian-mean velocity field to certain wave properties known from the linear solution. Both steady and unsteady wave fields are considered, with specific examples that include propagating wavepackets and monochromatic standing waves. Very good agreement between the theoretical predictions and direct numerical simulations of the nonlinear system is demonstrated. In particular, we extend previous studies by considering the impact of unsteady wave fields on the mean flow, and by considering the total kinetic energy of the mean flow as a function of the rotation rate. Notably, monochromatic standing waves provide an explicit counterexample to the often observed tendency of the mean flow to decrease monotonically with the background rotation rate.

Wave-driven currents and vortex dynamics on barred beaches

2001 ◽  
Vol 449 ◽  
pp. 313-339 ◽  
Author(s):  
OLIVER BÜHLER ◽  
TIVON E. JACOBSON
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Vortex Structures ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
The Mean

We present a theoretical and numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on beaches, especially barred beaches. The novel feature considered here is that the wave envelope is allowed to vary in the alongshore direction, which leads to the generation of strong dipolar vortex structures where the waves are breaking. The nonlinear evolution of these vortex structures is studied in detail using a simple analytical theory to model the effect of a sloping beach. One of our findings is that the vortex evolution provides a robust mechanism through which the preferred location of the longshore current can move shorewards from the location of wave breaking. Such current dislocation is an often-observed (but ill-understood) phenomenon on real barred beaches.To underpin our results, we present a comprehensive theoretical description of the relevant wave–mean interaction theory in the context of a shallow-water model for the beach. Therein we link the radiation-stress theory of Longuet-Higgins & Stewart to recently established results concerning the mean vorticity generation due to breaking waves. This leads to detailed results for the entire life-cycle of the mean-flow vortex evolution, from its initial generation by wave breaking until its eventual dissipative decay due to bottom friction.In order to test and illustrate our theory we also present idealized nonlinear numerical simulations of both waves and vortices using the full shallow-water equations with bottom topography. In these simulations wave breaking occurs through shock formation of the shallow-water waves. We note that because the shallow-water equations also describe the two-dimensional flow of a homentropic perfect gas, our theoretical and numerical results can also be applied to nonlinear acoustics and sound–vortex interactions.

scholarly journals Quantifying the Effects of Wave—Current Interactions on Tidal Energy Resource at Sites in the English Channel Using Coupled Numerical Simulations

Energies ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 14 (12) ◽  
pp. 3625
Author(s):  
Jon Hardwick ◽  
Ed B. L. Mackay ◽  
Ian G. C. Ashton ◽  
Helen C. M. Smith ◽  
Philipp R. Thies
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Tidal Energy ◽  
English Channel ◽  
Flow Conditions ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Stress Gradients ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Flow Power

Numerical modeling of currents and waves is used throughout the marine energy industry for resource assessment. This study compared the output of numerical flow simulations run both as a standalone model and as a two-way coupled wave–current simulation. A regional coupled flow-wave model was established covering the English Channel using the Delft D-Flow 2D model coupled with a SWAN spectral wave model. Outputs were analyzed at three tidal energy sites: Alderney Race, Big Roussel (Guernsey), and PTEC (Isle of Wight). The difference in the power in the tidal flow between coupled and standalone model runs was strongly correlated to the relative direction of the waves and currents. The net difference between the coupled and standalone runs was less than 2.5%. However, when wave and current directions were aligned, the mean flow power was increased by up to 7%, whereas, when the directions were opposed, the mean flow power was reduced by as much as 9.6%. The D-Flow Flexible Mesh model incorporates the effects of waves into the flow calculations in three areas: Stokes drift, forcing by radiation stress gradients, and enhancement of the bed shear stress. Each of these mechanisms is discussed. Forcing from radiation stress gradients is shown to be the dominant mechanism affecting the flow conditions at the sites considered, primarily caused by dissipation of wave energy due to white-capping. Wave action is an important consideration at tidal energy sites. Although the net impact on the flow power was found to be small for the present sites, the effect is site specific and may be significant at sites with large wave exposure or strong asymmetry in the flow conditions and should thus be considered for detailed resource and engineering assessments.

Cnoidal Wave-Induced Residual Liquefaction in Loosely Deposited Seabed under Coastal Shallow Water

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (24) ◽  
pp. 11631
Author(s):  
Xiuwei Chai ◽  
Jingyuan Liu ◽  
Yu Zhou
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Pore Pressure ◽  
Water Environment ◽  
Lateral Spreading ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Cnoidal Wave ◽  
Liquefaction Resistance ◽  
Liquefaction Process ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Seabed Soil

This study is aimed at numerically investigating the cnoidal wave-induced dynamics characteristics and the liquefaction process in a loosely deposited seabed floor in a shallow water environment. To achieve this goal, the integrated model FSSI-CAS 2D is taken as the computational platform, and the advanced soil model Pastor–Zienkiewicz Mark III is utilized to describe the complicated mechanical behavior of loose seabed soil. The computational results show that a significant lateral spreading and vertical subsidence could be observed in the loosely deposited seabed floor due to the gradual loss of soil skeleton stiffness caused by the accumulation of pore pressure. The accumulation of pore pressure in the loose seabed is not infinite but limited by the liquefaction resistance line. The seabed soil at some locations could be reached to the full liquefaction state, becoming a type of heavy fluid with great viscosity. Residual liquefaction is a progressive process that is initiated at the upper part of the seabed floor and then enlarges downward. For waves with great height in shallow water, the depth of the liquefaction zone will be greatly overestimated if the Stokes wave theory is used. This study can enhance the understanding of the characteristics of the liquefaction process in a loosely deposited seabed under coastal shallow water and provide a reference for engineering activities.

A Coupled-Mode Technique for the Run-Up of Non-Breaking Dispersive Waves on Plane Beaches

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Neumann Boundary ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Numerical Results ◽  
Coupled Mode Theory ◽  
Mode Theory ◽  
Coupled Mode ◽  
Run Up

A coupled-mode model is developed and applied to the transformation and run-up of dispersive water waves on plane beaches. The present work is based on the consistent coupled-mode theory for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions, developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) and extended to 3D by Belibassakis et al (2001), which is suitably modified to apply to a uniform plane beach. The key feature of the coupled-mode theory is a complete modal-type expansion of the wave potential, containing both propagating and evanescent modes, being able to consistently satisfy the Neumann boundary condition on the sloping bottom. Thus, the present approach extends previous works based on the modified mild-slope equation in conjunction with analytical solution of the linearised shallow water equations, see, e.g., Massel & Pelinovsky (2001). Numerical results concerning non-breaking waves on plane beaches are presented and compared with exact analytical solutions; see, e.g., Wehausen & Laitone (1960, Sec. 18). Also, numerical results are presented concerning the run-up of non-breaking solitary waves on plane beaches and compared with the ones obtained by the solution of the shallow-water wave equations, Synolakis (1987), Li & Raichlen (2002), and experimental data, Synolakis (1987).

scholarly journals SPILLING BREAKERS, BORES, AND HYDRAULIC JUMPS

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 30 ◽  
Author(s):  
D.H. Peregrine ◽  
I.A. Svendsen
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
The Mean ◽  
White Water ◽  
Pass Through ◽  
Definition Of ◽  
Spilling Breakers ◽  
Almost All ◽  
Plunging Breaker ◽  
Spilling Breaker

On gently sloping beaches, almost all water waves break. After the initial breaking the water motion usually appears quite chaotic. However, for a moderate time, for example two or three times the descent time of the "plunge" in a plunging breaker, the flow can be relatively well organised despite the superficial view which is largely of spray and bubbles. If waves continue to break the breaking motion, or "white water" soon becomes fully turbulent and the mean motions become quasisteady. A reasonable definition of a quasi-steady wave is one which changes little during the time a water particle takes to pass through it. We exclude water particles which may become trapped in a surface roller and surf along with the wave. At this stage in its development a wave on a beach may be described as a spilling breaker or as a bore. In fact, there is a range of these waves from those with a little white water at the crest to examples where the whole front of the wave is fully turbulent. In investigating the properties of such waves it is desirable to start by looking at the whole range of related motions. The most obvious extension is to the hydraulic jump; since, in the simplest view, it is equivalent to a bore but in a frame of reference moving with the wave. It is also an example where the mean flow is steady rather than quasisteady.

scholarly journals Far-Field Characteristics of Linear Water Waves Generated by a Submerged Landslide over a Flat Seabed

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (3) ◽  
pp. 196
Author(s):  
Haixiao Jing ◽  
Yanyan Gao ◽  
Changgen Liu ◽  
Jingming Hou
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Far Field ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Low Froude Number ◽  
Dispersive Model ◽  
Wave Models

Understanding the propagation of landslide-generated water waves is of great help against tsunami hazards. In order to investigate the effects of landslide shapes on the far-field leading wave generated by a submerged landslide at a constant depth, three linear wave models with different degrees of dispersive properties are employed in this study. The linear fully dispersive model is then validated by comparing the results against the experimental data available for landslides with a low Froude number. Three simplified shapes of landslides with the same volume, which are unnatural for a body of incoherent material, are used to investigate the effects of landslide shapes on the far-field properties of the generated leading wave over a flat seabed. The results show that the far-field leading crest over a constant depth is independent of the exact landslide shape and is invalid at a shallow water depth. Therefore, the most popular non-dispersive model (also called the shallow water wave model) cannot be used to reproduce the phenomenon. The weakly dispersive wave model can predict this phenomenon well. If only the leading wave is considered, this model is accurate up to at least μ = h0/Lc = 0.6, where h0 is the water depth and Lc denotes the characteristic length of the landslide.

scholarly journals Sediment Transport Processes during Barrier Island Inundation under Variations in Cross-Shore Geometry and Hydrodynamic Forcing

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (7) ◽  
pp. 210
Author(s):  
Anita Engelstad ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Piet Hoekstra ◽  
Maarten van der Vegt
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Barrier Island ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Bedload Transport ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Flow Transport ◽  
The Mean

Inundation of barrier islands can cause severe morphological changes, from the break-up of islands to sediment accretion. The response will depend on island geometry and hydrodynamic forcing. To explore this dependence, the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH was used to investigate the relative importance of bedload transport processes, such as transport by mean flow, short- (0.05–1 Hz) and infragravity (0.005–0.05 Hz) waves during barrier island inundation for different island configurations and hydrodynamic conditions. The boundary conditions for the model are based on field observations on a Dutch barrier island. Model results indicate that waves dominate the sediment transport processes from outer surfzone until landwards of the island crest, either by transporting sediment directly or by providing sediment stirring for the mean flow transport. Transport by short waves was continuously landwards directed, while infragravity wave and mean flow transport was seaward or landward directed. Landward of the crest, sediment transport was mostly dominated by the mean flow. It was forced by the water level gradient, which determined the mean flow transport direction and magnitude in the inner surfzone and on the island top. Simulations suggest that short wave and mean flow transport are generally larger on steeper slopes, since wave energy dissipation is less and mean flow velocities are higher. The slope of the island top and the width of the island foremost affect the mean flow transport, while variations in inundation depth will additionally affect transport by short-wave acceleration skewness.

Instabilities of buoyancy-driven coastal currents and their nonlinear evolution in the two-layer rotating shallow water model. Part 2. Active lower layer

2010 ◽  
Vol 665 ◽  
pp. 209-237 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. GULA ◽  
V. ZEITLIN ◽  
F. BOUCHUT
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Linear Stability ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution ◽  
Lower Layer ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Finite Volume Scheme ◽  
Coastal Currents ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Rotating Shallow Water

This paper is the second part of the work on linear and nonlinear stability of buoyancy-driven coastal currents. Part 1, concerning a passive lower layer, was presented in the companion paper Gula & Zeitlin (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 659, 2010, p. 69). In this part, we use a fully baroclinic two-layer model, with active lower layer. We revisit the linear stability problem for coastal currents and study the nonlinear evolution of the instabilities with the help of high-resolution direct numerical simulations. We show how nonlinear saturation of the ageostrophic instabilities leads to reorganization of the mean flow and emergence of coherent vortices. We follow the same lines as in Part 1 and, first, perform a complete linear stability analysis of the baroclinic coastal currents for various depths and density ratios. We then study the nonlinear evolution of the unstable modes with the help of the recent efficient two-layer generalization of the one-layer well-balanced finite-volume scheme for rotating shallow water equations, which allows the treatment of outcropping and loss of hyperbolicity associated with shear, Kelvin–Helmholtz type, instabilities. The previous single-layer results are recovered in the limit of large depth ratios. For depth ratios of order one, new baroclinic long-wave instabilities come into play due to the resonances among Rossby and frontal- or coastal-trapped waves. These instabilities saturate by forming coherent baroclinic vortices, and lead to a complete reorganization of the initial current. As in Part 1, Kelvin fronts play an important role in this process. For even smaller depth ratios, short-wave shear instabilities with large growth rates rapidly develop. We show that at the nonlinear stage they produce short-wave meanders with enhanced dissipation. However, they do not change, globally, the structure of the mean flow which undergoes secondary large-scale instabilities leading to coherent vortex formation and cutoff.

Flow in a deep turbulent boundary layer over a surface distorted by water waves

1972 ◽  
Vol 55 (4) ◽  
pp. 719-735 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. A. Townsend
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layer ◽  
Turbulent Boundary Layer ◽  
Phase Velocity ◽  
Surface Stress ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Turbulent Energy ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Boundary Layer Development ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Layer Development

Linearized equations for the mean flow and for the turbulent stresses over sinusoidal, travelling surface waves are derived using assumptions similar to those used by Bradshaw, Ferriss & Atwell (1967) to compute boundary-layer development. With the assumptions, the effects on the local turbulent stresses of advectal, vertical transport, generation and dissipation of turbulent energy can be assessed, and solutions of the equations are expected to resemble closely real flows with the same conditions. The calculated distributions of surface pressure indicate rates of wave growth (expressed as fractional energy gain during a radian advance of phase) of about 15(ρa/ρw) (τo/c2), where τo is the surface stress, co the phase velocity and ρa and ρw the densities of air and water, unless the wind velocity at height λ/2π is less than the phase velocity. The rates are considerably less than those measured by Snyder & Cox (1966), by Barnett & Wilkerson (1967) and by Dobson (1971), and arguments are presented to show that the linear approximation fails for wave slopes of order 0.1.

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