scholarly journals THE EXACT SOLUTION OF THE HIGHEST WAVE DERIVED FROM A UNIVERSAL WAVE MODEL

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 70
Author(s):  
Yang Yih Chen ◽  
Frederick L.W. Tang
Keyword(s):  
Exact Solution ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Series Solution ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Finite Depth

The solitary wave is first established in this paper by extending the series solution of periodic gravity wave as the wavelength approaches to infinite. Then, the highest gravity wave of permanent type in finite depth of water is immediately analyzed. The maximum ratio of wave height to water depth is obtained as 0.85465')..., and the angle at the crest for the considered highest wave is estimated to be 90°.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals THE SOLITARY WAVE: ITS CELERITY, PROFILE, INTERNAL VELOCITIES AND AMPLITUDE ATTENUATION IN A HORIZONTAL SMOOTH CHANNEL

2000 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 2 ◽  
Author(s):  
James W. Daily ◽  
Samuel C. Stephan, Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Horizontal Displacement ◽  
Smooth Channel ◽  
Amplitude Attenuation ◽  
Oscillatory Waves

The solitary wave consists of a single elevation of water above the originally undisturbed level as shown in Figure 1. It is translatory, a passing wave causing a definite net horizontal displacement of the liquid. While the characteristics of oscillatory waves depend on wave length as well as wave height and water depth, the solitary wave is apparently described completely by the wave height and water depth so long as attenuation due to friction is unimportant.

SPECTRAL WAVE MODELLING IN TIDAL INLET SEAS: RESULTS FROM THE SBW WADDEN SEA PROJECT

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ap Van Dongeren ◽  
Andre Van der Westhuysen ◽  
Jacco Groeneweg ◽  
Gerbrant Van Vledder ◽  
Joost Lansen ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wadden Sea ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Conditions

Over the last five years a research program has been carried out to assess the performance of the spectral wave model SWAN in the Wadden Sea so that it may be used for the transformation of offshore wave conditions to wave boundary conditions near the sea defenses (dikes and dunes). The assessment was done on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in Ameland inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from lakes and estuaries. After a first round of assessment, we found that SWAN performed reasonably well for storm conditions but three aspects required further attention. Firstly, focusing on the main channel, SWAN formulations needed to be modified in order to eliminate overprediction of the significant wave height in opposing currents. Secondly, the primary spectral peak of North Sea waves penetrating into the inlet was underpredicted. Best results were obtained when the refraction of low-frequency waves was limited and the bottom friction coefficient was set at a lower value than the current default for wind seas. Thirdly, over the tidal flats the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the conventional Battjes and Janssen (1978) depth-limited wave breaking formulation, because the wave growth over finite depth is hampered by the present formulation of depth-induced wave breaking. The problem has been solved using a new breaker formulation. All these improvements have lead to a wave transformation model with which reliable wave conditions in the Wadden Sea and related complex areas can be determined.

scholarly journals A Preliminary Laboratory Study of Motion of Floating Debris Generated by Solitary Waves Running up a Beach

2014 ◽  
Vol 08 (03) ◽  
pp. 1440006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yao Yao ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Hung-Tao Shen
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Current Understanding ◽  
Final Position ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
The Difference

Destructive tsunamis can destroy coastal structures and move huge amounts of tsunami debris. Our current understanding of motion of tsunami debris in tsunami flows is limited. In this paper, we present a preliminary laboratory study of motion of model debris under the action of solitary waves running up a beach. The difference between the waterline of maximum inundation and the final position of debris was examined under various conditions. Effects of solitary wave height, water depth, and the distance of debris source to the shoreline on the maximum inundation, the debris limit, and the final position of debris were examined. In general, the final positions of the debris are different from the waterline at maximum inundation and there is a low possibility that a large amount of debris can be carried by retreating water offshore into the sea.

scholarly journals Assessing the Analytical Solution of One-Dimensional Gravity Wave Model Equations Using Dam-Break Experimental Measurements

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (9) ◽  
pp. 1261 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wenjun Liu ◽  
Bo Wang ◽  
Yunliang Chen ◽  
Chao Wu ◽  
Xin Liu
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Discontinuity Point ◽  
Weak Discontinuity ◽  
Dam Break ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Hydraulic Parameters ◽  
One Dimensional ◽  
Dimensional Gravity

The one-dimensional gravity wave model (GWM) is the result of ignoring the convection term in the Saint-Venant Equations (SVEs), and has the characteristics of fast numerical calculation and low stability requirements. To study its performances and limitations in 1D dam-break flood, this paper verifies the model using a dam-break experiment. The experiment was carried out in a large-scale flume with depth ratios (initial downstream water depth divided by upstream water depth) divided into 0 and 0.1~0.4. The data were collected by image processing technology, and the hydraulic parameters, such as water depth, flow discharge, and wave velocity, were selected for comparison. The experimental results show that the 1D GWM performs an area with constant hydraulic parameters, which is quite different from the experimental results in the dry downstream case. For a depth ratio of 0.1, the second weak discontinuity point, which is connected to the steady zone in the 1D GWM, moves upstream, which is contrary to the experimental situation. For depth ratios of 0.2~0.4, the moving velocity of the second weak discontinuity point is faster than the experimental value, while the velocity of the shock wave is slower. However, as the water depth ratio increases, the hydraulic parameters calculated by 1D GWM in the steady zone gradually approach the experimental value.

THE SOLITARY WAVE MODEL OF SUPERFLUIDITY

2005 ◽  
Vol 19 (01n03) ◽  
pp. 99-102 ◽  
Author(s):  
KUANGDING PENG
Keyword(s):  
Exact Solution ◽  
Transition Temperature ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Schrödinger Equation ◽  
Harmonic Oscillator ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Schrodinger Equation ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Harmonic Oscillator Model ◽  
Coherent Condition

We propose the solitary wave model of superfluidity. According to harmonic oscillator model of quasi-lattice of liquid, it is proven that superfluid domains (SD) exist in He liquid, in which the resistanceless motion of liquid molecules (LM) can be carry out. At temperature lower than T c, all SD connect with each other and superflow in whole liquid takes place. Applying Toda's potential, under continuous conditions, we obtain the motion equation of LM, and its exact solution. Substituting these results into Schrödinger equation of LM, we can prove the existence of solitary waves of LM and the non-linear Schrödinger equation of LM. The motion of solitons of LM leads to a superflow. On the basis of coherent condition of wave of LM, we derive the formula of transition temperature Tc of superfluidity. From the formula, the relation of the onset temperature Tc of superflow on inert layers is explained.

scholarly journals Development of damage curves for buildings near La Rochelle during Storm Xynthia based on insurance claims and hydrodynamic simulations

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Manuel Andres Diaz Loaiza ◽  
Jeremy D. Bricker ◽  
Remi Meynadier ◽  
Trang Duong ◽  
Rosh Ranasinghe ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Claims Data ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Flow Depth ◽  
Insurance Claims ◽  
Total Flow ◽  
Damage Functions ◽  
Wave Measurements

Abstract. The Delft3D hydrodynamic and wave model is used to hindcast the storm surge and waves that impacted La Rochelle, France and the surrounding area (Aytré, Châtelaillon-Plage, Yves, Fouras and Ille du Re) during Storm Xynthia. These models are validated against tide and wave measurements. The models then estimate the footprint of flow depth, speed, unit discharge, flow momentum flux, significant wave height, wave energy flux, total water depth (flow depth plus wave height), and total (flow plus wave) force at the locations of damaged buildings for which insurance claims data are available. Correlation of the hydrodynamic and wave results with the claims data generates building damage functions. These damage functions are shown to be sensitive to the topography data used in the simulation, as well as the hydrodynamic or wave forcing parameter chosen for the correlation. The most robust damage functions result from highly accurate topographic data, and are correlated with water depth or total (flow plus wave) force.

Asymptotic theory for the almost-highest solitary wave

1996 ◽  
Vol 317 ◽  
pp. 1-19 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins ◽  
M. J. H. Fox
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Asymptotic Theory ◽  
Finite Depth ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Asymptotic Formulae ◽  
Energy And Momentum

The behaviour of the energy in a steep solitary wave as a function of the wave height has a direct bearing on the breaking of solitary waves on a gently shoaling beach. Here it is shown that the speed, energy and momentum of a steep solitary wave in water of finite depth all behave in an oscillatory manner as functions of the wave height and as the limiting height is approached. Asymptotic formulae for these and other wave parameters are derived by means of a theory for the ‘almost-highest wave’ similar to that formulated previously for periodic waves in deep water (Longuet-Higgins & Fox 1977, 1978). It is demonstrated that the theory fits very precisely some recent calculations of solitary waves by Tanaka (1995).

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document