scholarly journals Wave Directions in a Narrow Bay

2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma ◽  
Laura Tuomi
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Step Size ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Spectral Wave Model ◽  
Directional Coupling ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
The Baltic ◽  
The Waves

Abstract In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.

scholarly journals A PARAMETRIC HURRICANE WAVE PREDICTION MODEL

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 82
Author(s):  
Ian R. Young
Keyword(s):  
Spatial Distribution ◽  
Radiative Transfer Equation ◽  
Synthetic Data ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Limited Growth ◽  
Forward Movement ◽  
Spectral Wave Model ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Two Parameters ◽  
The Waves

A spectral wave model based on a numerical solution of the Radiative Transfer Equation is used to create a synthetic data base on wave conditions within hurricanes. The results indicate that both the velocity of forward movement and maximum wind velocity within the storm play an important role in determining both the magnitude of the waves generated and also the spatial distribution of these waves. An equivalent fetch for hurricane wave generation which is a function of these two parameters is proposed. This concept, together with the standard JONSWAP fetch limited growth relationships, provide a simple means for estimating wave conditions within hurricanes.

scholarly journals Wave climate in the Arkona Basin, the Baltic Sea

Ocean Science ◽  
2012 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 287-300 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Soomere ◽  
R. Weisse ◽  
A. Behrens
Keyword(s):  
Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wind Fields ◽  
The Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Baltic ◽  
Basic Features

Abstract. The basic features of the wave climate in the Southwestern Baltic Sea (such as the average and typical wave conditions, frequency of occurrence of different wave parameters, variations in wave heights from weekly to decadal scales) are established based on waverider measurements at the Darss Sill in 1991–2010. The measured climate is compared with two numerical simulations with the WAM wave model driven by downscaled reanalysis of wind fields for 1958–2002 and by adjusted geostrophic winds for 1970–2007. The wave climate in this region is typical for semi-enclosed basins of the Baltic Sea. The maximum wave heights are about half of those in the Baltic Proper. The maximum recorded significant wave height HS =4.46 m occurred on 3 November 1995. The wave height exhibits no long-term trend but reveals modest interannual (about 12 % of the long-term mean of 0.76 m) and substantial seasonal variation. The wave periods are mostly concentrated in a narrow range of 2.6–4 s. Their distribution is almost constant over decades. The role of remote swell is very small.

A new wave hindcast for the North and Baltic Sea region using COSMO-REA6

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nikolaus Groll
Keyword(s):  
Baltic Sea ◽  
Extreme Events ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Good Representation ◽  
Wind Fields ◽  
Wave Hindcast ◽  
The North ◽  
Atmospheric Observations ◽  
The Baltic

<p>Wave hindcasts are still required as improved knowledge of climate variables representing the present marine climate are needed. Most long regional wave hindcasts are driven by numerically downscaled wind fields from global reanalysis. Whereas this approach gives a good representation of the regional wave climate in general, there are some deficits in the characteristics of extreme events. Using regional atmospheric reanalysis, which assimilates atmospheric observations into the numerical model, a better description of extreme events is expected. The regional atmospheric reanalysis COSMO-REA6 from the German Weather Service (DWD) showed that it is capable of a better representation of atmospheric extreme events. For the new regional wave hindcast, covering the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, we use the COSMO-REA6 to force the wave model WAM. It is shown, that his new wind hindcast leads to an improved representation of extreme wave events compared to other regional wave hindcasts and thus supports an important contribution to the understanding of the wave climate of extremes and for the design phase of offshore activities.</p>

An Atlas of the Wave-Energy Resource in Europe

1996 ◽  
Vol 118 (4) ◽  
pp. 307-309 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. T. Pontes ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis ◽  
S. Barstow ◽  
L. Cavaleri ◽  
B. Holmes ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Energy Resource ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Weather Forecasts ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Climate Statistics

An atlas of the European offshore wave energy resource, being developed within the scope of a European R&D program, includes the characterization of the offshore resource for the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts of Europe in addition to providing wave-energy and wave-climate statistics that are of interest to other users of the ocean. The wave data used for compiling the Atlas come from the numerical wind-wave model WAM, implemented in the routine operation of the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), in addition to directional wave measurements from the Norwegian offshore waters.

Verification of a 3rd Generation FEM Spectral Wave Model for Shallow and Deep Water Applications

2006 ◽  
Author(s):  
Aron Roland ◽  
Ulrich Zanke ◽  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Shan-Hwei Ou ◽  
Jian-Ming Liau ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Scheme ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Step Method ◽  
Fractional Step Method ◽  
Spectral Wave Model ◽  
Model Domain ◽  
Comparable Accuracy ◽  
Wave Forecasting ◽  
Taylor Galerkin Method

This paper shows some results of the work currently carried out to improve the wave forecasting and hindcasting in oceanic and coastal regions. A new spectral wave model with a flexible numerical scheme using triangular elements to describe the model domain was developed by Hsu et al. (2002). This new spectral wave model called WWM (Wind Wave Model) is feasible for the spectral wave modeling of irregular coastlines and complicated bathymetries because of its numerical scheme. The Wave Action Equation is solved with the aid of the Fractional Step Method (Yanenko, 1971). The Integration in the spatial space is carried out with the Taylor-Galerkin Method and the terms describing depth and current induced refraction are integrated with the aid of Leonard’s (1979) TVD Ultimate Quickest scheme, which was already introduced in the WWIII (H. Tolman, 1991) for the same purpose. In three applications the wave model was verified against in-situ spectral measurements of directional and non-directional wave buoys. The results show that the new spectral wave model is capable of hindcasting the wave climate with a comparable accuracy like the SWAN model (Ris et al., 1998), though with a better efficiency since fewer nodes are necessary to resolve the model domain and the boundary conditions adequately.

WAVE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK SEA’S COASTAL WATERS DURING THE LAST THREE DECADES

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wind Speed ◽  
Cell Size ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Computational Grid ◽  
Coastal Areas ◽  
Wave Parameters

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.

scholarly journals Evaluating the accuracy and uncertainty of atmospheric and wave model hindcasts during severe events using model ensembles

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ali Abdolali ◽  
Andre van der Westhuysen ◽  
Zaizhong Ma ◽  
Avichal Mehra ◽  
Aron Roland ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Event ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Model Performance ◽  
Ground Truth ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Atmospheric Model ◽  
Stationary Source ◽  
Source Point ◽  
Spectral Wave Model ◽  
Model Ensembles

AbstractVarious uncertainties exist in a hindcast due to the inabilities of numerical models to resolve all the complicated atmosphere-sea interactions, and the lack of certain ground truth observations. Here, a comprehensive analysis of an atmospheric model performance in hindcast mode (Hurricane Weather and Research Forecasting model—HWRF) and its 40 ensembles during severe events is conducted, evaluating the model accuracy and uncertainty for hurricane track parameters, and wind speed collected along satellite altimeter tracks and at stationary source point observations. Subsequently, the downstream spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III is forced by two sets of wind field data, each includes 40 members. The first ones are randomly extracted from original HWRF simulations and the second ones are based on spread of best track parameters. The atmospheric model spread and wave model error along satellite altimeters tracks and at stationary source point observations are estimated. The study on Hurricane Irma reveals that wind and wave observations during this extreme event are within ensemble spreads. While both Models have wide spreads over areas with landmass, maximum uncertainty in the atmospheric model is at hurricane eye in contrast to the wave model.

scholarly journals Regional Downscaling of Copernicus ERA5 Wave Data for Coastal Engineering Activities and Operational Coastal Services

Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (6) ◽  
pp. 859
Author(s):  
Giorgio Bellotti ◽  
Leopoldo Franco ◽  
Claudia Cecioni
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
National Level ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Tyrrhenian Sea ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Multiple Wave ◽  
Space Resolution ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Fundamental Information

Hindcasted wind and wave data, available on a coarse resolution global grid (Copernicus ERA5 dataset), are downscaled by means of the numerical model SWAN (simulating waves in the nearshore) to produce time series of wave conditions at a high resolution along the Italian coasts in the central Tyrrhenian Sea. In order to achieve the proper spatial resolution along the coast, the finite element version of the model is used. Wave data time series at the ERA5 grid are used to specify boundary conditions for the wave model at the offshore sides of the computational domain. The wind field is fed to the model to account for local wave generation. The modeled sea states are compared against the multiple wave records available in the area, in order to calibrate and validate the model. The model results are in quite good agreement with direct measurements, both in terms of wave climate and wave extremes. The results show that using the present modeling chain, it is possible to build a reliable nearshore wave parameters database with high space resolution. Such a database, once prepared for coastal areas, possibly at the national level, can be of high value for many engineering activities related to coastal area management, and can be useful to provide fundamental information for the development of operational coastal services.

scholarly journals Wave power assessment in Faroese waters using an oceanic to nearshore scale spectral wave model

Energy ◽  
2021 ◽  
pp. 121404
Author(s):  
Bárður Joensen ◽  
Bárður A. Niclasen ◽  
Harry B. Bingham
Keyword(s):  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Spectral Wave Model
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