scholarly journals Simulation of Deep Water Wave Climate for the Indian Seas

2021 ◽  
Vol 3 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Swain ◽  
P. A. Umesh ◽  
M. Baba ◽  
A. S. N. Murty

The ocean wave climate has a variety of applications in Naval defence. However, a long-term and reliable wave climate for the Indian Seas (The Arabian Sea and The Bay of Bengal) over a desired grid resolution could not be established so far due to several constraints. In this study, an attempt was made for the simulation of wave climate for the Indian Seas using the third-generation wave model (3g-WAM) developed by WAMDI group. The 3g-WAM as such was implemented at NPOL for research applications. The specific importance of this investigation was that, the model utilized a “mean climatic year of winds” estimated using historical wind measurements following statistical and probabilistic approaches as the winds which were considered for this purpose were widely scattered in space and time. Model computations were carried out only for the deep waters with current refraction. The gridded outputs of various wave parameters were stored at each grid point and the spectral outputs were stored at selected locations. Monthly, seasonal and annual distributions of significant wave parameters were obtained by post-processing some of the model outputs. A qualitative validation of simulated wave height and period parameters were also carried out by comparing with the observed data. The study revealed that the results of the wave climate simulation were quite promising and they can be utilized for various operational and ocean engineering applications. Therefore, this study will be a useful reference/demonstration for conducting such experiments in the areas where wind as well as wave measurements are insufficient.

Author(s):  
Kebir Emre SaraçoÄŸlu ◽  
H. Anıl Guner ◽  
Cihan Åžahin ◽  
Yalçın Yuksel ◽  
Esin Çevik

The knowledge of the wave climate is one of the most important data for application of coastal engineering, which includes coastal structure design, sediment transport, coastal erosion and so on. Due to the lack of measurements in many region and high cost of wave measurements, coastal engineers have to estimate wave characteristics using a variety of methods, which comprise empirical and numerical solutions. A variety of empirical and numerical methods have been developed and used for determining wave characteristics. In this study, in order to determine wave climate over the Black Sea, it was used third generation Mike 21 spectral wave model. For this purpose, a series of numerical models were conducted in a way to cover the 13-year period between 1996 and 2008. The obtained results from numerical models were compared to the results of Wind and Deep Water Wave Atlas for Turkish Coasts. It was concluded that the results were highly consistent each other.


Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.


2019 ◽  
Vol 36 (10) ◽  
pp. 1933-1944 ◽  
Author(s):  
Haoyu Jiang

AbstractNumerical wave models can output partitioned wave parameters at each grid point using a spectral partitioning technique. Because these wave partitions are usually organized according to the magnitude of their wave energy without considering the coherence of wave parameters in space, it can be difficult to observe the spatial distributions of wave field features from these outputs. In this study, an approach for spatially tracking coherent wave events (which means a cluster of partitions originating from the same meteorological event) from partitioned numerical wave model outputs is presented to solve this problem. First, an efficient traverse algorithm applicable for different types of grids, termed breadth-first search, is employed to track wave events using the continuity of wave parameters. Second, to reduce the impact of the garden sprinkler effect on tracking, tracked wave events are merged if their boundary outlines and wave parameters on these boundaries are both in good agreement. Partitioned wave information from the Integrated Ocean Waves for Geophysical and other Applications dataset is used to test the performance of this spatial tracking approach. The test results indicate that this approach is able to capture the primary features of partitioned wave fields, demonstrating its potential for wave data analysis, model verification, and data assimilation.


Author(s):  
Odin Gramstad ◽  
Elzbieta Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
Erik Vanem

We investigate the future wave climate in the North Atlantic with respect to extreme events as well as on wave parameters that have previously not been considered in much details in the perspective of wave climate change, such as those associated with occurrence of rogue waves. A number of future wave projections is obtained by running the third generation wave model WAM with wind input derived from several global circulation models. In each case the wave model has been run for the 30-year historical period 1971–2000 and the future period 2071–2100 assuming the two different future climate scenarios RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5. The wave model runs have been carried out by the Norwegian Meteorological Institute in Bergen, and the climate model result are taken from The Coupled Model Intercomparison Project phase 5 - CMIP5. In addition to the standard wave parameters such as significant wave height and peak period the wave model runs provided the full two-dimensional wave spectrum. This has enabled the study of a larger set of wave parameters. The focus of the present study is the projected future changes in occurrence of extreme sea states and extreme and rogue waves. The investigations are limited to parameters related to this in a few selected locations in the North Atlantic. Our results show that there are large uncertainties in many of the parameters considered in this study, and in many cases the different climate models and different model scenarios provide contradicting results with respect to the predicted change from past to future climate. There are, however, some situations for which a clearer tendency is observed.


Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.


1996 ◽  
Vol 118 (4) ◽  
pp. 307-309 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. T. Pontes ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis ◽  
S. Barstow ◽  
L. Cavaleri ◽  
B. Holmes ◽  
...  

An atlas of the European offshore wave energy resource, being developed within the scope of a European R&D program, includes the characterization of the offshore resource for the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts of Europe in addition to providing wave-energy and wave-climate statistics that are of interest to other users of the ocean. The wave data used for compiling the Atlas come from the numerical wind-wave model WAM, implemented in the routine operation of the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), in addition to directional wave measurements from the Norwegian offshore waters.


2014 ◽  
Vol 501-504 ◽  
pp. 2099-2106
Author(s):  
Liang Ding ◽  
Fei Fan ◽  
Jia Rui Li

This paper studied the wave condition of Jiangsu Sea area with wave model SWAN, which was driven by the wind field from 1990.01.01 to 2011.12.30. Firstly, tidal current of Jiangsu sea area was simulated by the Delft3D flow model. Then, wave parameters of East China Sea and Jiangsu sea area were computed, and then buoy data was used to compared with the modeled, they validated well. Last, the average wave height and period are calculated, and the distribution of wave height on each direction was studied. The result shows that the largest annually average wave height of Jiangsu is up to 1.6m. The average wave height is decreasing from southeast to northwest. The wave height in winter is larger than other seasons. In this sea area, waves mainly come from NE and SE directions. Strong waves come from NE or NNE direction.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 119 ◽  
Author(s):  
Amaia Ruiz de Alegria-Arzaburu ◽  
Ismael Mariño-Tapia ◽  
Cecilia Enriquez ◽  
Rodolfo Silva-Casarín ◽  
Mariana González-Leija

The morphological response of two adjacent beaches, on the Mexican Caribbean coast, exposed to the same offshore wave climate is compared, where one of the beaches is fringed by a coral reef and the other is not. Detailed topographic and bathymetric measurements were collected from 2007 to 2011using a differential GPS and double-frequency echo-sounder. Offshore waves were continuously measured by the NOAA 42056 directional buoy, and nearshore waves were measured from May to September 2007 using an acoustic wave and current profiler to validate the use of offshore waves in the analysis of beach morphodynamics. Investigations showed that the beach with the fringing coral reef was the more stable under the same offshore energetic wave conditions of different directions. The implications of the fringing reef on the local hydrodynamics and energy dissipation were evaluated with the SWAN third-generation spectral wave model. The model was first validated with wave measurements collected at intermediate (forereef) and shallow waters (reef lagoon) with Aquadop profilers. Numerical results indicate that during shore-normal energetic conditions, the fringing reef is capable of reducing the incoming wave energy by up to 65%.


Author(s):  
Christos N. Stefanakos ◽  
Grim Eidnes

In the present work, an analysis of the wave climate in Nord-fold area in the northern Norway has been performed. The analysis was carried out by transferring offshore wave conditions to the nearshore area of interest by successive applications of the well-known third-generation wave model SWAN. The area presents a particular interest, since it has a very deep and complex bathymetry near the coast and a very complicated coastline. Analysis has been carried out using a very detailed bathymetry of the area provided by the Norwegian Mapping Authority. Moreover, as input, five year long time series of directional spectra of offshore wave parameters have been used, after being calibrated using the best available satellite altimeter dataset.


Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (6) ◽  
pp. 859
Author(s):  
Giorgio Bellotti ◽  
Leopoldo Franco ◽  
Claudia Cecioni

Hindcasted wind and wave data, available on a coarse resolution global grid (Copernicus ERA5 dataset), are downscaled by means of the numerical model SWAN (simulating waves in the nearshore) to produce time series of wave conditions at a high resolution along the Italian coasts in the central Tyrrhenian Sea. In order to achieve the proper spatial resolution along the coast, the finite element version of the model is used. Wave data time series at the ERA5 grid are used to specify boundary conditions for the wave model at the offshore sides of the computational domain. The wind field is fed to the model to account for local wave generation. The modeled sea states are compared against the multiple wave records available in the area, in order to calibrate and validate the model. The model results are in quite good agreement with direct measurements, both in terms of wave climate and wave extremes. The results show that using the present modeling chain, it is possible to build a reliable nearshore wave parameters database with high space resolution. Such a database, once prepared for coastal areas, possibly at the national level, can be of high value for many engineering activities related to coastal area management, and can be useful to provide fundamental information for the development of operational coastal services.


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