Coastal dunes - A nature based coastal protection element exposed to exacerbated anthropogenic stress

Author(s):  
Björn Mehrtens ◽  
Viktoria Kosmalla ◽  
Oliver Lojek ◽  
David Schürenkamp ◽  
Nils Goseberg

<p>Natural coastal dunes covered by vegetation are an essential component on many sandy coastlines worldwide and often provide the only physical protection against flooding by dissipating wave energy and enhancing erosion resilience. However, sea level rise, changing and widely intensifying coastal wave climates and storm surges constitute severe exacerbated stresses, calling into question the perseverance of such unique coastal ecosystems as dunes and their protective functions taken for granted.</p><p>Here we investigate the extensive coastal dune system of St. Peter-Ording, a major tourist draw of the German North Sea within a marine high energy zone. Lining the coast along 15 km, extending up to 1.5 km in cross-shore direction it covers an area of 18 sqkm characterized by overgrown dunes separating the tidal foreshore from the topographically flat hinterland. Featuring a dedicated, Germany wide unique, coastal protection function sets it apart from other national coastal dune systems - potentially creating a role model for mitigating coastal squeeze related driving factors, further adding to its awe-inspiring landscape character.</p><p>Consequently, the joint-research project ''Sandküste St. Peter Ording'' examines whether the local flood protection dune “Maleens Knoll”, a 16.6 m high natural coastal dune stretching a roughly 1.2 km long gap in the sea-dike defense, will continue to offer adequate protection in the future. Current hypothesis is, that due to the overgrowth with non-endemic and invasive vegetation species, the natural dynamic and self-adaptation of the system is impaired and will not withstand projected changes in coastal drivers. Therefore, the long-term goal is to develop a variety of nature-friendly flood protection measures to reinforce the dune and reduce its probability of failure during an extreme storm surge.</p><p>Possible options comprise the installation of hybrid systems, combining the existing dune core with one of the following structures: 1) a vertical wall to gain more stability during erosion of the sand cover, 2) rock filling to increase wave dissipation and reduce wave reflection and erosion and 3) geotextiles to provide a temporary and more environmentally protection against runup. The built-in materials will be covered with sand, to mimic the original landform and yield its previous degree of freedom regarding topographic adaptation. Another approach is to strengthen the resistance of the sand surface against aeolian and fluvial erosion. Through a microbiological process based on calcium carbonate precipitation (MICP), the strength can be increased in a particularly environmentally friendly way that saves raw materials. Furthermore, adapted or additional planting with a site-typical vegetation can promote sand accumulation at the surface and thereby stabilize the dune.</p><p>Large-scale physical model experiments will be performed in a wave flume to investigate the protection potential of the dune. First, the natural dune condition will be recreated and tested under a combination of water levels and wave conditions to investigate current and future load cases. Based on the findings, a second series of experiments will be conducted to determine which engineering methods are most appropriate to reinforce the dune and ensure its coastal protection character and retain its naturalness at the same time.</p>

Water ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (12) ◽  
pp. 2518 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Quentin Laporte-Fauret ◽  
Vincent Marieu ◽  
Richard Michalet ◽  
David Rosebery ◽  
...  

This paper describes a large-scale experiment designed to examine if reinstating natural processes in the coastal dune systems of Southwest France can be a relevant nature-based adaptation in chronically eroding sectors and a nature-based solution against coastal hazards, by maintaining the coastal dune ecological corridor. An experiment started in late 2017 on a 4-km-long stretch of coast at Truc Vert, where experimental notches were excavated and intensively monitored in the incipient and established foredunes. Preliminary results indicate that most of the excavated notches did not develop into blowout. Only the larger elongated notches subsequently excavated in the established foredune in 2018 showed evidence of development, acting as an effective conduit for aeolian landward transport into the dunes. All notches were found to have a statistically significant impact on vegetation dynamics downwind, even those that did not develop. The area of bare sand landward and within the elongated notches notably increased implying a loss of vegetation cover during this first stage of development. Observations of a nearby coastal dune system that has been in free evolution over the last 40 years also indicate that, although the dune migrated inland by more than 100 m, it is now mostly made of bare sand. Further work is required to explore if and how dunes maintained as dynamic systems can become an efficient nature-based solution along this eroding coastline.


1997 ◽  
Vol 75 (6) ◽  
pp. 902-915 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gilles Houle

Coastal dunes are very dynamic systems, particularly where the coast is rising as a result of isostatic rebound. In those environments, succession proceeds from plants highly tolerant to sand accumulation, salt spray, and low nutrient availability to less disturbance-tolerant and stress-tolerant, more nutrient-demanding, and supposedly more competitive species. In the subarctic, the regional climate exacerbates the stresses imposed by local abiotic conditions on the dunes. I hypothesized that facilitation would be particularly significant on the foredune of subarctic coastal dune systems because of intense stresses (local and regional) and frequent disturbance in the form of sand deposition. Belowground and aboveground plant biomass was sampled at three different periods during the 1990 growing season along transects perpendicular to the shoreline on a coastal dune system in subarctic Quebec (Canada). The three herbaceous perennials found on the foredune (Honckenya peploides, Elymus mollis, and Lathyrus japonicus) were segregated in time during the growing season and in space along the topographical gradient. The biomass of Honckenya, the first species encountered as one progresses from the upper part of the beach towards the foredune ridge, was not correlated to substrate physicochemistry. However, the biomass of Elymus and that of Lathyrus, the next two species to appear along the flank of the foredune, were related to pH, Mg, Na, and Cl (negatively), and to P and Ca (positively). These results suggest variable linkages between substrate physicochemistry and plant species along the foredune, possibly in relation to species-specific tolerance for abiotic conditions and requirements for substrate resources or to microscale influence of the plants themselves on substrate physicochemistry. Removal experiments carried out over 2 years revealed only one significant unidirectional interaction between these three species along the topographical gradient, and little plant control over abiotic variables (e.g., soil temperature, wind velocity, and photosynthetically active radiation). Early primary succession on subarctic coastal dunes (and elsewhere) appears to be under the control of strong limiting abiotic conditions. As plants slowly gain more control over the physical environment, interspecific interactions (positive and negative) may become more significant. Key words: Elymus mollis, facilitation, Honckenya peploides, inhibition, Lathyrus japonicus, removal experiment, succession, tolerance.


2018 ◽  
Vol 18 (4) ◽  
pp. 1247-1260 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gemma L. Franklin ◽  
Alec Torres-Freyermuth ◽  
Gabriela Medellin ◽  
María Eugenia Allende-Arandia ◽  
Christian M. Appendini

Abstract. Reefs and sand dunes are critical morphological features providing natural coastal protection. Reefs dissipate around 90 % of the incident wave energy through wave breaking, whereas sand dunes provide the final natural barrier against coastal flooding. The storm impact on coastal areas with these features depends on the relative elevation of the extreme water levels with respect to the sand dune morphology. However, despite the importance of barrier reefs and dunes in coastal protection, poor management practices have degraded these ecosystems, increasing their vulnerability to coastal flooding. The present study aims to theoretically investigate the role of the reef–dune system in coastal protection under current climatic conditions at Puerto Morelos, located in the Mexican Caribbean Sea, using a widely validated nonlinear non-hydrostatic numerical model (SWASH). Wave hindcast information, tidal level, and a measured beach profile of the reef–dune system in Puerto Morelos are employed to estimate extreme runup and the storm impact scale for current and theoretical scenarios. The numerical results show the importance of including the storm surge when predicting extreme water levels and also show that ecosystem degradation has important implications for coastal protection against storms with return periods of less than 10 years. The latter highlights the importance of conservation of the system as a mitigation measure to decrease coastal vulnerability and infrastructure losses in coastal areas in the short to medium term. Furthermore, the results are used to evaluate the applicability of runup parameterisations for beaches to reef environments. Numerical analysis of runup dynamics suggests that runup parameterisations for reef environments can be improved by including the fore reef slope. Therefore, future research to develop runup parameterisations incorporating reef geometry features (e.g. reef crest elevation, reef lagoon width, fore reef slope) is warranted.


2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (22) ◽  
pp. 3689
Author(s):  
Iain Fairley ◽  
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo ◽  
Ian Masters ◽  
Harshinie Karunarathna ◽  
Dominic E. Reeve

Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mihaela Tudor ◽  
Ana Ramos-Pereira ◽  
Joana Gaspar de Freitas

<p>Coastal dunes are very complex systems and very sensitive to climatic variability and human actions. In Portugal, coastal dune fields have undergone major changes over historical times. The aim of the paper is focused on the coastal dune systems evolution over the last five centuries, natural and man induced (namely by deforestation and afforestation) and their transformation under the present global changes (sea level rise and coastal storms). The analysis of historical records and environmental data using a set of proxies recorded over the last 1,000 yrs, show intense aeolian activity and sand drift episodes during Little Age Period, causing serious problems for human settlements and agriculture. Coastal society have responded to the wind-blown sands fixing the dunes through afforestation. The process is well documented in the historical sources and many management measures, including abundant legislation, projects and reports were carried out by Portuguese authorities to avoid sand incursion inland.  According to the main report of the General Forest Administration, in the final of 18th century, was estimated an area of about 72 000 ha of free aeolian sands in need of afforestation. Thus, along Portuguese coastline, the dunes experienced a period of stability during the 20th century, due to planting of grasses and pine forest. This paper examines the pathways of the transgressive dune fields of the Central Western Portuguese coast, over various stages of coastal evolution. Mapping the morphological features between Mondego river mouth and Nazaré, using a combination of satellite images, aerial photographs and Lidar data we identified distinct phases of aeolian activity and landforms modification that were associated to climatic fluctuations. This coastal dune system is composed by a succession of different aeolian phases, including a littoral foredune, which lies inland with a complexity of morphologies with transverse and crescentic ridges, and also parabolic dunes. The results show that the dunes building and sand migration inland appears to be linked to the conditions of predominantly negative winter North Atlantic Oscillation index (NAOi), driven by climatic variability during Holocene/Antrhopocene. The consistency of intense sand drift episodes with abrupt cold events during Little Age Period, drastically reduced the area occupied by vegetation, causing changes in aeolian sedimentary processes. Thus, it seems that coastal dunes evolution over the past centuries have been controlled by the two-way interactions between natural conditions and human activities, shaping the Portuguese coastline. Placing historical evidence in a geographical perspective, we hope to fill the gaps in coastal zone dynamics, providing new insights of the human-landscape relationships to predict the future response of the coastal dune systems to human pressure and climate change.<br>Key-words: coastal dunes evolution, geomorphological features, sand drift, anthropogenic impacts, climatic fluctuation, Western Portugal.</p>


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Viktoria Kosmalla ◽  
Jan-Michael Schönebeck ◽  
Björn Mehrtens ◽  
Kara Keimer ◽  
Maike Paul ◽  
...  

<p>The joint-research project "Gute Küste Niedersachsen" is a multidisciplinary approach across spatial and temporal scales investigating ecosystem services for coastal protection. Current national coastal protection concepts predominantly target flood protection and rarely consider additional benefits to coastal ecosystems or vice versa. How maritime landscapes, such as salt marshes, coastal white dunes or a diversification of dike vegetation, can be integrated into approaches of coastal protection without compromising protection levels is the driving question in "Gute Küste Niedersachsen" and heeds recent European Framework directives calls for the restoration of a good ecological status. An in-depth understanding of dynamics within coastal ecosystems, covering eco-hydrodynamics and eco-geomorphodynamics is developed in real world laboratories at the German North Sea coast, as part of the project.<br>Systematic field observations in collaboration between biologists, geo-ecologists and coastal engineers are conducted to identify seasonal changes of vegetation regarding zonation, height, root length density and bio-mechanical parameters like bending stiffness or tensile strength. The differences of bio-mechanical vegetation traits from specific plant species, e.g. the European beach grass <em>Ammophila arenaria</em>, will indicate differences in bio-stabilization states.<br>Complementary field data of topography and soil parameters, e.g. shear and pull-out resistance, among other parameters, are acquired, employing specifically developed instrumentation like the DiCoastar for automatic and digital measurements of shear resistance over rotation angle. Additionally, values such as water and biomass content obtained from soil samples help to elucidate erosion stability of coastal ecosystems.<br>Field campaigns are focused on two real world laboratories, the tidal barrier island of Spiekeroog, Germany, and a coastal mainland section. Spiekeroog offers a variety of dune systems exposed to divergent environmental conditions such as established and recently developing natural dunes at the north-eastern coast, dunes that are used for coastal protection at the north-western coast, dunes in combination with a sea wall that are already supported by sand nourishment at the western coast or established dunes along the south-western tip of the island. Furthermore, the island holds a unique setting with an engineered dune, which was created to integrate a dike system into the landscape. This offers a one-of-a-kind opportunity to investigate differences between six different dune system types within close proximity regarding their vegetation bound bio-mechanical properties and linked soil-bound erosion resistance.<br>In addition, Spiekeroog offers an abandoned dike line, for which a sectional re-planting is rolled out with alternative seed combinations for ecologically upgrading grass dikes and boost plant diversity while coastal protection is maintained. A direct comparison against a sea dike is made at the second real world laboratory situated at the adjacent mainland coast. This setting facilitates the comparison between different biological revetment types and their respective performance in coastal protection regarding wave-soil-vegetation interactions.<br>In a subsequent step, the extensive data set will be used to develop surrogate plant models and mimic nature in hydraulic laboratories and numerical simulations to project system performance under climate change scenarios. Finally, technical guidance as well as policy recommendations will be derived for enhancing ecosystem services of artificial structures for coastal protection.</p>


2019 ◽  
Vol 21 (2) ◽  
pp. 364-380
Author(s):  
Antônio Emanuel dos' Santos Silva ◽  
Matheus Silveira Pinheiro ◽  
Davis Pereira de Paula

Ambientalmente as dunas frontais constituem estruturas verdes de proteção costeira contra o avanço do mar, em muitos casos, são responsáveis pela manutenção do equilíbrio sedimentar do sistema praia-duna, impedindo que processos como a erosão costeira e a inundação marinha se tornem danosos a sociedade civil e ao patrimônio construído. O objetivo deste estudo foi monitorar as variações morfológicas e sedimentares do sistema praia-duna entre os anos de 2016 e 2018, no trecho extremo oeste da Praia do Icaraí, através da determinação das taxas granulométricas, volumétricas e morfológicas do sistema praia-duna na Praia do Icaraí. Os procedimentos metodológicos foram divididos em três etapas principais: levantamento bibliográfico, geocartográfico e experimentos de campo. Considerou-se que as forçantes oceanográficas foram as principais responsáveis pela erosão e solapamento das dunas frontais presentes na área de estudo. Em linhas gerais, os resultados deste trabalho significam um importante instrumento de análise dos impactos das condicionantes oceanográficas e antrópicas sobre uma praia que sofre de erosão costeira acentuada. O estudo em um trecho mais preservado dessa praia indicou de forma direta os impactos sofridos em um litoral que vem passando por transformações contínuas em suas praias, como é o caso do litoral de Caucaia.Palavras-chave: Morfodinâmica; Sistema Praial; Dunas Frontais. ABSTRACTEnvironmentally the frontal dunes constitute green structures of coastal protection against the advance of the sea, in many cases, they are responsible for the maintenance of the sedimentary balance of the beach-dune system, preventing that processes such as coastal erosion and marine flooding become harmful to civil society and built heritage. The objective of this study was to monitor the morphological and sedimentary variations of the beach-dune system between the years 2016 and 2018, in the extreme west section of Icaraí Beach, by determining the granulometric, volumetric and morphological rates of the beach-dune system in Praia of Icaraí. The methodological procedures were divided into three main stages: bibliographic survey, geocartographic and field experiments. It was considered that the oceanographic forcings were the main responsible for the erosion and overlap of the frontal dunes present in the study area. In general terms, the results of this work represent an important instrument for analyzing the impacts of oceanographic and anthropogenic conditions on a beach that suffers from marked coastal erosion. The study in a more preserved stretch of this beach indicated in a direct way the impacts suffered on a coast that has undergone continuous transformations in its beaches, as is the case of the coast of Caucaia.Keywords: Morphodynamics; Praial System; Fore Dunes. RESUMENAmbientalmente, las dunas frontales son estructuras verdes de protección costera contra el avance del mar. En muchos casos, son responsables de mantener el equilibrio sedimentario del sistema de dunas de playa, evitando que procesos como la erosión costera y las inundaciones marinas dañen a la sociedad civil. y el patrimonio construido. El objetivo de este estudio fue monitorear las variaciones morfológicas y sedimentarias del sistema de dunas de playa entre 2016 y 2018, en el extremo occidental de Praia do Icaraí, determinando el tamaño de partícula, las tasas volumétricas y morfológicas del sistema de dunas de playa en Praia de Icaraí Los procedimientos metodológicos se dividieron en tres etapas principales: estudio bibliográfico, geocartográfico y experimentos de campo. El forzamiento oceanográfico se consideró el principal responsable de la erosión y el debilitamiento de las dunas frontales presentes en el área de estudio. En general, los resultados de este trabajo representan un instrumento importante para analizar los impactos de las condiciones oceanográficas y antropogénicas en una playa que sufre una severa erosión costera. El estudio en un tramo más preservado de esta playa indicó directamente los impactos sufridos en una costa que ha sufrido cambios continuos en sus playas, como es el caso de la costa de Caucaia.Palabras claves: Morfodinámica; Sistema de playa; Dunas frontales.


2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (10) ◽  
pp. 2183-2205 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
Rob Brander ◽  
Jak McCarroll ◽  
Arthur Robinet ◽  
...  

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso–macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfing-related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs >1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.


1975 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 381-391 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. W. Kamphuis

A number of lightweight coastal protection structures, built on the Lake Erie shore are discussed in this paper. There were two constraints on the design; limited funds and a very precarious downdrift beach. Thus the structures were inexpensive and the protection was low-key to prevent damage downdrift. In 1972–1974 these structures were subjected to a combination of large waves and high water levels and thus they were tested well beyond their design limits.The paper discusses the structures, their performance under normal conditions, and their performance during and after the abnormally high water levels. It is found that inexpensive, low-key structures are sufficiently strong to survive normal conditions, but fail by overtopping and flanking under conditions beyond their low design limits.


2015 ◽  
Vol 49 ◽  
pp. 178-187 ◽  
Author(s):  
Debora Lithgow ◽  
M. Luisa Martínez ◽  
Juan B. Gallego-Fernández

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