scholarly journals MEASUREMENTS OF SURF BEAT AND SET-DOWN BENEATH WAVE GROUPS

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 49 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.K. Kostense
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Time Varying ◽  
Equal Frequency ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Free Wave ◽  
Wave Channel ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Active Wave ◽  
Good Agreement

A laboratory study was conducted to measure the amplitudes of long waves In shallow water as induced by wave grouping. In a 55 m long wave channel with a plane beach at the end, two primary waves of nearly equal frequency were generated. Due to a sophisticated control of the wave paddle - including second order wave generation as well as active wave absorption at the paddle face - the wave action at the difference frequency was limited to an incident forced wave, propagating at the group velocity, and a reflected free wave generated in the surf zone. For the incident forced - or bound - wave, also known as set-down, the experimental results show good agreement with the existing theory. Furthermore, the experiments confirm qualitatively a theoretical model by Symonds et al. (198 2) explaining two-dimensional surf beat as a result of the time-varying breakpoint of the incident primary waves.

scholarly journals SURF BEAT GENERATION ON A MILD-SLOPE BEACH

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 79 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hemming A. Schaffer ◽  
Ib A. Svendsen
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Beat Generation ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Inhomogeneous Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Forcing Function ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Inhomogeneous Wave Equation ◽  
Slope Beach ◽  
Resonant Generation

Two dimensional generation of surf beats by incident wave groups is examined theoretically. An inhomogeneous wave equation describes the amplitude of the surf beat wave. The forcing function is the modulation of the radiation stress. The short waves are amplitude modulated both outside and inside the surf zone causing the long wave generation to continue right to the shore line. Resonant generation as shallow water is approached is included. The analytical solution is evaluated numerically and shows a highly complicated amplitude variation of the surf beat depending on the parameters of the problem.

Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups

1993 ◽  
Vol 247 ◽  
pp. 551-588 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hemming A. Schäffer
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Break Point ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Short Waves ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Integrated Conservation ◽  
Infragravity Wave

A theoretical model for infragravity waves generated by incident short-wave groups is developed. Both normal and oblique short-wave incidence is considered. The depth-integrated conservation equations for mass and momentum averaged over a short-wave period are equivalent to the nonlinear shallow-water equations with a forcing term. In linearized form these equations combine to a second-order long-wave equation including forcing, and this is the equation we solve. The forcing term is expressed in terms of the short-wave radiation stress, and the modelling of these short waves in regard to their breaking and dynamic surf zone behaviour is essential. The model takes into account the time-varying position of the initial break point as well as a (partial) transmission of grouping into the surf zone. The former produces a dynamic set-up, while the latter is equivalent to the short-wave forcing that takes place outside the surf zone. These two effects have a mutual dependence which is modelled by a parameter K, and their relative strength is estimated. Before the waves break, the standard assumption of energy conservation leads to a variation of the radiation stress, which causes a bound, long wave, and the shoaling bottom results in a modification of the solution known for constant depth. The respective effects of this incident bound, long wave and of oscillations of the break-point position are shown to be of the same order of magnitude, and they oppose each other to some extent. The transfer of energy from the short waves to waves at infragravity frequencies is analysed using the depth-integrated conservation equation of energy. For the case of normally incident groups a semi-analytical steady-state solution for the infragravity wave motion is given for a plane beach and small primary-wave modulations. Examples of the resulting surface elevation as well as the corresponding particle velocity and mean infragravity-wave energy flux are presented. Also the sensitivity to the variation of input parameters is analysed. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature. The qualitative agreement is good, but quantitatively the model overestimates the infragravity wave activity. This can, in part, be attributed to the neglect of frictional effects.

scholarly journals WAVE GROUPINESS AS A SOURCE OF NEARSHORE LONG WAVES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 38 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jeffrey H. List
Keyword(s):  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Cross Correlation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Progressive Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Cross Correlation Analysis ◽  
Limited Usefulness

Data from a low energy swell-dominated surf zone are examined for indications that observed low frequency motions are simply group-forced bounded long waves. Time series of wave amplitude are compared to filtered long wave records through cross-spectral and cross-correlation analysis. These methods are found to have limited usefulness until long waves are separated into seaward and shoreward components. Then a clear picture of a rapidly shoaling bounded long wave emerges, with a minimum of nearly one fourth of the long wave amplitude being explainable by this type of motion close to shore. Through the zone in which waves were breaking, and incident wave amplitude variability decreased by 50%, the contribution from the bounded long wave continued to increase at a rate much greater than a simple shoaling effect. Also present are clear signs that this amplified bounded long wave is reflected from a position close to the shoreline, and is thus released from wave groups as a free, offshore-progressive wave.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

2006 ◽  
Vol 462 (2070) ◽  
pp. 1853-1876 ◽  
Author(s):  
T.E Baldock
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Transient Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Spatial Gradients ◽  
Long Wave

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Infragravity Waves Induced by Short-Wave Groups in Coastal Regions Characterized by General Bottom Topography

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Present Model ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Coastal Regions ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Long Wave

The free long-wave generation by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom is studied both experimentally and theoretically by various authors showing important results concerning the modelling of energy transfer from the short waves to subharmonics. In the present work, the coupled-mode model developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves over variable bathymetry regions, as generalized to include dissipation due to bottom friction and breaking effects, is applied to calculate the spatial evolution of short-wave groups propagating over a shoaling area, characterized by general bottom topography. Following Scha¨ffer (1993), the present model is appropriately modified in the surf zone in order to destroy the short-wave modulation, keeping the wave height decay in proportion to the local water-depth, and is then used to calculate radiation stresses associated with shoaling and breaking of short-wave groups in the area of general bathymetry and in the surf zone. Subsequently, the system of long wave equations, corresponding to zero (set-down/set-up) and first few harmonics, forced by the radiation stresses, is numerically solved. Results are presented showing that the present model provides reasonable predictions, supporting the study of infragravity waves induced by shortwave groups and their effects on harbors and mooring systems of large vessel operating in nearshore/coastal regions.

Explaining the magnetism of gold

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robson de Farias
Keyword(s):  
Gas Phase ◽  
Computational Study ◽  
Formation Enthalpy ◽  
Gold Atom ◽  
Orbital Energy ◽  
Knudsen Effusion ◽  
Energy Diagram ◽  
Unpaired Electrons ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Good Agreement

<p>In the present work, a computational study is performed in order to clarify the possible magnetic nature of gold. For such purpose, gas phase Au<sub>2</sub> (zero charge) is modelled, in order to calculate its gas phase formation enthalpy. The calculated values were compared with the experimental value obtained by means of Knudsen effusion mass spectrometric studies [5]. Based on the obtained formation enthalpy values for Au<sub>2</sub>, the compound with two unpaired electrons is the most probable one. The calculated ionization energy of modelled Au<sub>2</sub> with two unpaired electrons is 8.94 eV and with zero unpaired electrons, 11.42 eV. The difference (11.42-8.94 = 2.48 eV = 239.29 kJmol<sup>-1</sup>), is in very good agreement with the experimental value of 226.2 ± 0.5 kJmol<sup>-1</sup> to the Au-Au bond<sup>7</sup>. So, as expected, in the specie with none unpaired electrons, the two 6s<sup>1</sup> (one of each gold atom) are paired, forming a chemical bond with bond order 1. On the other hand, in Au<sub>2</sub> with two unpaired electrons, the s-d hybridization prevails, because the relativistic contributions. A molecular orbital energy diagram for gas phase Au<sub>2</sub> is proposed, explaining its paramagnetism (and, by extension, the paramagnetism of gold clusters and nanoparticles).</p>

Effect of leakage and blockage on the acoustic behavior of particle filters

2019 ◽  
Vol 67 (6) ◽  
pp. 483-492
Author(s):  
Seonghyeon Baek ◽  
Iljae Lee
Keyword(s):  
Transfer Matrix ◽  
Particle Filters ◽  
Acoustic Analysis ◽  
Transmission Loss ◽  
One Dimensional ◽  
Filter System ◽  
The Difference ◽  
The One ◽  
Analytical Approaches ◽  
Good Agreement

The effects of leakage and blockage on the acoustic performance of particle filters have been examined by using one-dimensional acoustic analysis and experimental methods. First, the transfer matrix of a filter system connected to inlet and outlet pipes with conical sections is measured using a two-load method. Then, the transfer matrix of a particle filter only is extracted from the experiments by applying inverse matrices of the conical sections. In the analytical approaches, the one-dimensional acoustic model for the leakage between the filter and the housing is developed. The predicted transmission loss shows a good agreement with the experimental results. Compared to the baseline, the leakage between the filter and housing increases transmission loss at a certain frequency and its harmonics. In addition, the transmission loss for the system with a partially blocked filter is measured. The blockage of the filter also increases the transmission loss at higher frequencies. For the simplicity of experiments to identify the leakage and blockage, the reflection coefficients at the inlet of the filter system have been measured using two different downstream conditions: open pipe and highly absorptive terminations. The experiments show that with highly absorptive terminations, it is easier to see the difference between the baseline and the defects.

Effect of Magnetic Fields on the Resistance and Microstructure of Al-Cu Alloy during Solidification Processing

2011 ◽  
Vol 287-290 ◽  
pp. 2916-2920
Author(s):  
Chun Yan Ban ◽  
Peng Qian ◽  
Xu Zhang ◽  
Qi Xian Ba ◽  
Jian Zhong Cui
Keyword(s):  
Magnetic Field ◽  
Magnetic Fields ◽  
Turning Points ◽  
Probe Method ◽  
Solidification Processing ◽  
Ac Magnetic Field ◽  
Dc Magnetic Field ◽  
Cu Alloy ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Good Agreement

The resistance of Al-21%Cu alloy under no magnetic field, DC magnetic field and AC magnetic field from liquid to solid was measured by a four-probe method. The difference of resistance versus temperature curves (R-T curves) was analyzed. It is found that the R-T curves of Al-21%Cu alloy are monotone decreasing and have two obvious turning points. Under DC magnetic field, the liquidus and solidus temperatures of the alloy both decrease, while under AC magnetic field, the liquidus and solidus temperatures both increase. There is a good agreement between the microstructure of quenching sample and R-T curves. The mechanism of the effect of magnetic fields was discussed.

Local atomic structure in tetragonal pure ZrO2nanopowders

2010 ◽  
Vol 43 (2) ◽  
pp. 227-236 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leandro M. Acuña ◽  
Diego G. Lamas ◽  
Rodolfo O. Fuentes ◽  
Ismael O. Fábregas ◽  
Márcia C. A. Fantini ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Tetragonal Phase ◽  
Local Structure ◽  
X Ray Diffraction ◽  
X Ray ◽  
Atomic Structures ◽  
Crystallite Sizes ◽  
Exafs Study ◽  
The Difference ◽  
X Ray Absorption ◽  
Good Agreement

The local atomic structures around the Zr atom of pure (undoped) ZrO2nanopowders with different average crystallite sizes, ranging from 7 to 40 nm, have been investigated. The nanopowders were synthesized by different wet-chemical routes, but all exhibit the high-temperature tetragonal phase stabilized at room temperature, as established by synchrotron radiation X-ray diffraction. The extended X-ray absorption fine structure (EXAFS) technique was applied to analyze the local structure around the Zr atoms. Several authors have studied this system using the EXAFS technique without obtaining a good agreement between crystallographic and EXAFS data. In this work, it is shown that the local structure of ZrO2nanopowders can be described by a model consisting of two oxygen subshells (4 + 4 atoms) with different Zr—O distances, in agreement with those independently determined by X-ray diffraction. However, the EXAFS study shows that the second oxygen subshell exhibits a Debye–Waller (DW) parameter much higher than that of the first oxygen subshell, a result that cannot be explained by the crystallographic model accepted for the tetragonal phase of zirconia-based materials. However, as proposed by other authors, the difference in the DW parameters between the two oxygen subshells around the Zr atoms can be explained by the existence of oxygen displacements perpendicular to thezdirection; these mainly affect the second oxygen subshell because of the directional character of the EXAFS DW parameter, in contradiction to the crystallographic value. It is also established that this model is similar to another model having three oxygen subshells, with a 4 + 2 + 2 distribution of atoms, with only one DW parameter for all oxygen subshells. Both models are in good agreement with the crystal structure determined by X-ray diffraction experiments.

Behavior of Unsteady Turbulent Starting Round Jets

2012 ◽  
Vol 134 (6) ◽  
Author(s):  
Neerav Abani ◽  
Jaal B. Ghandhi
Keyword(s):  
High Speed ◽  
Penetration Rate ◽  
Injection Rate ◽  
Injection Velocity ◽  
Time Varying ◽  
Velocity Change ◽  
Rate Of Penetration ◽  
Round Jets ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Sudden Decrease

Turbulent starting jets with time-varying injection velocities were investigated using high-speed schlieren imaging. Two solenoid-controlled injectors fed a common plenum upstream of an orifice; using different upstream pressures and actuation times, injection-rate profiles with a step increase or decrease in injection velocity were tested. The behavior of the jet was found to be different depending on the direction of the injection-velocity change. A step increase in injection velocity resulted in an increased rate of penetration relative to the steady-injection case, and a larger increase in injection velocity resulted in an earlier change in the tip-penetration rate. The step-increase data were found to be collapsed by scaling the time by a convective time scale based on the tip location at the time of the injection-velocity change and the difference in the injection velocities. A sudden decrease in injection velocity to zero was found to cause a deviation from the corresponding steady-pressure case at a time that was independent of the initial jet velocity, i.e., it was independent of the magnitude of the injection-velocity change. Two models for unsteady injection from the literature were tested and some deficiencies in the models were identified.

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