scholarly journals Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker

2014 ◽  
Vol 26 (1) ◽  
pp. 016601 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lev Shemer ◽  
Dan Liberzon
Keyword(s):  
2015 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 1159-1195 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Shemer ◽  
B. K. Ee

Abstract. A method was developed to carry out detailed qualitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with the available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed additional light on the limits of applicability of the computational results, as well as on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves.


1994 ◽  
Vol 258 ◽  
pp. 115-129 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael S. Longuet-Higgins ◽  
R. P. Cleaver

It is shown theoretically that the crest of a steep, irrotational gravity wave, considered in isolation, is unstable. There exists just one basic mode of instability, whose exponential rate of growth β equals 0.123(g / R)½, where g denotes gravity and R is the radius of curvature at the undisturbed crest. A volume of water near the crest is shifted towards the forward face of the wave; the ‘toe’ of the instability is at a horizontal distance 0.45R ahead of the crest. The instability may represent the initial stage of a spilling breaker. On small scales, the ‘toe’ may be a source of parasitic capillary waves.


Author(s):  
Heinrich Söding

A 3-dimensional Rankine source panel method for simulating a rigid floating body in steep waves is being developed. The aim is to obtain the same quality as free-surface RANSE methods, which are well suited for this application, but to require only a small fraction of the computing time needed by RANSE methods. The body may have forward speed or perform maneuvering motions. The exact boundary conditions are satisfied at the actual location of the fluid boundaries. The waves are generated not by a material wave maker, but by an approximate wave potential which needs not satisfy the exact free-surface condition. No wave damping regions are required. Whereas for steep waves without a body the method appears satisfactory, it needs further improvements if a body is present.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 30 ◽  
Author(s):  
D.H. Peregrine ◽  
I.A. Svendsen

On gently sloping beaches, almost all water waves break. After the initial breaking the water motion usually appears quite chaotic. However, for a moderate time, for example two or three times the descent time of the "plunge" in a plunging breaker, the flow can be relatively well organised despite the superficial view which is largely of spray and bubbles. If waves continue to break the breaking motion, or "white water" soon becomes fully turbulent and the mean motions become quasisteady. A reasonable definition of a quasi-steady wave is one which changes little during the time a water particle takes to pass through it. We exclude water particles which may become trapped in a surface roller and surf along with the wave. At this stage in its development a wave on a beach may be described as a spilling breaker or as a bore. In fact, there is a range of these waves from those with a little white water at the crest to examples where the whole front of the wave is fully turbulent. In investigating the properties of such waves it is desirable to start by looking at the whole range of related motions. The most obvious extension is to the hydraulic jump; since, in the simplest view, it is equivalent to a bore but in a frame of reference moving with the wave. It is also an example where the mean flow is steady rather than quasisteady.


2013 ◽  
Vol 19 (1) ◽  
pp. 103-115 ◽  
Author(s):  
Satu K. Hänninen ◽  
Tommi Mikkola ◽  
Jerzy Matusiak

Author(s):  
Xiufeng Liang ◽  
Jianmin Yang ◽  
Longfei Xiao ◽  
Xin Li ◽  
Jun Li

The importance of understanding air gap response and potential deck impact is well-known in the design stage of semi-submersible platform. The highly non-linear nature of wave elevation around large structures in steep waves makes it difficult to accurately predict wave field under the deck and wave run up along the columns. Present engineering tools for the prediction of air gap response generally based on simplified models. Even the models accounting for nonlinear wave diffraction is not free of uncertainties. A method adopted here couples a Navier-Stokes solver, VOF technique capturing violent free surface and DNV/Seasam predicting motions of moored semi-submersible platform. Air gap response at different locations of the hull was evaluated in predetermined irregular wave train. Wave run up was also measured by wave probes near the columns. Load cells were mounted under the deck of the platform to trace potential deck impact. The predetermined irregular wave train was simulated in a numerical wave tank and verified against physical tank results. Analysis of the air gap response, wave run up and impact loads on the semi-submersible platform were conducted.


2009 ◽  
Vol 640 ◽  
pp. 131-150 ◽  
Author(s):  
SHREYAS V. JALIKOP ◽  
ANNE JUEL

We study steep capillary-gravity waves that form at the interface between two stably stratified layers of immiscible liquids in a horizontally oscillating vessel. The oscillatory nature of the external forcing prevents the waves from overturning, and thus enables the development of steep waves at large forcing. They arise through a supercritical pitchfork bifurcation, characterized by the square root dependence of the height of the wave on the excess vibrational Froude number (W, square root of the ratio of vibrational to gravitational forces). At a critical valueWc, a transition to a linear variation inWis observed. It is accompanied by sharp qualitative changes in the harmonic content of the wave shape, so that trochoidal waves characterize the weakly nonlinear regime, but ‘finger’-like waves form forW≥Wc. In this strongly nonlinear regime, the wavelength is a function of the product of amplitude and frequency of forcing, whereas forW<Wc, the wavelength exhibits an explicit dependence on the frequency of forcing that is due to the effect of viscosity. Most significantly, the radius of curvature of the wave crests decreases monotonically withWto reach the capillary length forW=Wc, i.e. the lengthscale for which surface tension forces balance gravitational forces. ForW<Wc, gravitational restoring forces dominate, but forW≥Wc, the wave development is increasingly defined by localized surface tension effects.


1996 ◽  
Vol 308 ◽  
pp. 15-29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael S. Longuet-Higgins

The surface of a turbulent, open-channel flow is often characterized by smooth areas of upwelling, each surrounded by a zone of downwelling marked by short steep waves. The dynamics of short waves on such a downwelling region are investigated and some laboratory experiments are proposed. Assuming that the horizontal strain rate Ω is locally constant, a simple expression is derived for the amplitude a of the short capillary–gravity waves, and hence also for the spectrum of the surface slopes.


2005 ◽  
Vol 22 (3) ◽  
pp. 258-271 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicholas Scott ◽  
Tetsu Hara ◽  
Edward J. Walsh ◽  
Paul A. Hwang

Abstract A new wavelet analysis methodology is proposed to estimate the statistics of steep waves. The method is applied to open ocean wave height data from the Southern Ocean Waves Experiment (1992) and from a field experiment conducted at Duck, North Carolina (1997). Results show that high wave slope crests appear over a wide range of wavenumbers, with a large amount being much shorter than the dominant wave. At low wave slope thresholds, all wave fields have roughly the same amount of wave crests regardless of wind forcing. The steep wave statistic decays exponentially with the square of the wave slope threshold, with a decay rate that is larger for the low wind cases than the high wind cases. Comparison of the steep wave statistic with independent measurements of the breaking wave statistic suggests a breaking wave slope threshold of about 0.12. The steep wave statistic does not scale with the cube of the wind speed, suggesting that other factors besides the wind speed also affect its level. Comparison of the steep wave statistic to the saturation spectrum reveals a reasonable correlation at moderate wave slope thresholds.


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