Surface wave direction control on curved surfaces

2020 ◽  
Vol 54 (7) ◽  
pp. 074003
Author(s):  
Chenwei Wei ◽  
Mengjia Cen ◽  
Hsiang-Chen Chui ◽  
Tun Cao
Author(s):  
Peng Wang ◽  
James C. McWilliams ◽  
Yusuke Uchiyama

AbstractCoastal fronts impact cross-shelf exchange of materials, such as plankton and nutrients, which are important to the ecosystems in continental shelves. Here using numerical simulation we demonstrate a nearshore front induced by wave streaming. Wave streaming is a bottom Eulerian current along the surface wave direction, and it is caused by the wave bottom dissipation. Wave streaming drives a Lagrangian overturning circulation in the inner shelf and pumps up deep and cold water into the overturning circulation. The water inside the overturning circulation is quickly mixed and cooled because of the wave streaming-enhanced viscosity. However, the offshore water outside the overturning circulation remains stratified and warmer. Hence, a front develops between the water inside and outside the overturning circulation. The front is unstable and generates submesoscale shelf eddies, which lead the offshore transport across the front. This study presents a new mechanism for coastal frontogenesis.


2017 ◽  
Vol 47 (8) ◽  
pp. 1921-1939 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexander W. Fisher ◽  
Lawrence P. Sanford ◽  
Malcolm E. Scully ◽  
Steven E. Suttles

AbstractThe role of surface gravity waves in structuring the air–sea momentum flux is examined in the middle reaches of Chesapeake Bay. Observed wave spectra showed that wave direction in Chesapeake Bay is strongly correlated with basin geometry. Waves preferentially developed in the direction of maximum fetch, suggesting that dominant wave frequencies may be commonly and persistently misaligned with local wind forcing. Direct observations from an ultrasonic anemometer and vertical array of ADVs show that the magnitude and direction of stress changed across the air–sea interface, suggesting that a stress divergence occurred at or near the water surface. Using a numerical wave model in combination with direct flux measurements, the air–sea momentum flux was partitioned between the surface wave field and the mean flow. Results indicate that the surface wave field can store or release a significant fraction of the total momentum flux depending on the direction of the wind. When wind blew across dominant fetch axes, the generation of short gravity waves stored as much as 40% of the total wind stress. Accounting for the storage of momentum in the surface wave field closed the air–sea momentum budget. Agreement between the direction of Lagrangian shear and the direction of the stress vector in the mixed surface layer suggests that the observed directional difference was due to the combined effect of breaking waves producing downward sweeps of momentum in the direction of wave propagation and the straining of that vorticity field in a manner similar to Langmuir turbulence.


2011 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 789-796 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. Jarry ◽  
V. Rey ◽  
F. Gouaud ◽  
D. Lajoie

Abstract. In this experimental work, both wave amplification and phase evolution, due to a submerged mound, are studied. In addition to the classical surface wave measurements, the experimental study takes advantage of photographs that underline crest re-organization above and down-wave the shoal. In particular, together with wave amplification up to more than twice the incident wave, a wave steepening is observed in certain conditions in both the wave direction and in the cross-section. Due to a phase crest separation downstream of the shoal, steepening in the cross-shore direction is enhanced (up to 30% above the steepening along the main direction of propagation). Physical aspects are discussed through the analysis of the diffraction effects on the wave properties.


Author(s):  
Je-Yuan Hsu

AbstractEM-APEX floats as autonomous vehicles have been used for profiling temperature, salinity and current velocity for more than a decade. In the traditional method for processing horizontal current velocity from float measurements, signals of surface wave motion are removed as residuals. Here, a new data processing method is proposed for deriving the horizontal velocity of surface waves at the floats. Combined with the vertical acceleration measurements of waves, surface wave directional spectra E(f,θ) can be computed. This method is applied to the float measurements on the right of Typhoon Megi’s track 2010. At 0.6 day before the passage of Megi’s eye to the floats, the fast-propagating swell may affect wind waves forced by the local storm wind. When the storm moves closer to the floats, the increasing wind speed and decreasing angle between wind and dominant wave direction may enhance the wind forcing and form a mono-modal spectrum E(f). The peak frequency fp ~ 0.08 Hz and significant wave height > 10 m are found near the eyewall. After the passage of the eye to the floats, the fp increases to > 0.1 Hz. Although E(f) still has a single spectral peak at the rear-right quadrant of Megi, E(f,θ) at frequencies from 0.08 to 0.12 Hz has waves propagating in three different directions as a tri-modal spectrum, partially due to the swell propagating from the rear-left quadrant. Enhancing the capability of EM-APEX floats to observe wave spectra is critical for exploring the roles of surface waves in the upper ocean dynamics in the future.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 35
Author(s):  
A.D. Weathershaw

The results of experiments are described which show that surface waves may experience a resonant interaction with undulations on the seabed. This interaction manifests itself in a strong reflection of incident wave energy when the wavelength of the bottom undulation is about half that of the surface wave. It is shown that such a mechanism might enable a region of undulating seabed topography (eg sand bars or sandwaves) to extend in an up-wave direction, into a region of otherwise plane bed.


1981 ◽  
Vol 104 ◽  
pp. 483-503 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. B. Dysthe ◽  
K. P. Das

Using a simple three-layer model of the ocean, we study a generation mechanism for the lowest internal-wave mode by nonlinear coupling to modulations of the surface-wave spectrum. We first examine the case of a narrow-band surface-wave spectrum, applying a method developed by Alber (1978) to derive a transport equation for the spectral density. Alber demonstrated that, when the spectral width (in the main wave direction) exceeds some critical value, the spectrum is stable against modulational perturbation (i.e. the Benjamin–Feir-type instability is suppressed). We show, however, that, for a stratified ocean, a modulational instability may persist because of a coupling between a ‘modulational mode’ of the surface-wave spectrum and an internal wave. The growth rate is calculated for a simple model of the angular distribution of the spectrum. It turns out that an important parameter is 〈(∇ξ)2〉/Δθ, the ratio between the averaged square of the wave steepness, and the angular width of the spectrum.For appreciable growth one must have roughly \[ 2\times 10^{-3}\lesssim kd \langle (\nabla\zeta)^2\rangle / \Delta\theta, \] where k is a characteristic wavenumber for the surface-wave spectrum, and d is the depth of the thermocline (50-100 m). This condition is probably too limiting for the above-mentioned modulational instability to be of any practical interest in the oceans.We also consider the broad-band case of modulational interaction, and show the connection with incoherent three-wave interactions.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document