(Un)necessary Hardships in “Getting There”
Chapter 4 uses modern-day case studies and extensive fieldwork to depict the current situation for those undertaking the pilgrimage. It shows how the construction of the MCH brought about a modernization of transportation to the shrine and also a renaissance of the walking practice to Hinglaj. It demonstrates how the infrastructure that developed along with the MCH, easier access to water, and a reduced chance of becoming lost in the desert have led to a revitalization of walking patterns and to new interpretations of the concept of austerity (Skt. tapasyā). A case study of a group of Gujarati pilgrims from India shows the situation for Hinglaj devotees on the other side of the border whose path to the Goddess contrasts starkly with that of their Pakistani counterparts. The chapter also discusses how recent developments around Hinglaj have exposed a gap between the traditional discursive representations of the pilgrimage and current practices at the shrine.