Characterization of the effect of fabric structure on the optical properties of woven fabrics

2019 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 58-70
Author(s):  
Paniz Khosravani ◽  
Nazanin Ezazshahabi ◽  
Masoud Latifi

Purpose This paper aims to study the optical properties of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach The current study was carried out to objectively evaluate the luster of a group of woven fabrics with different weave structures and weft densities, with the aid of a goniophotometer. The results obtained from the objective luster measurement were validated by a set of pair comparison subjective tests using Thurstone’s law of comparative judgment. Findings The proper correlation with the R2 value of more than 0.96, between subjective and objective tests, confirmed the reliability and accordance of objective results with the human perception of luster. Statistical analysis of the luster results clarified that the effect of fabric structural parameters such as weave structure and weft density are significant at the confidence range of 95 per cent. The highest luster index was achieved for the twill 3/1 weave structure and the lowest luster belonged to the plain pattern. In addition, an increase in the density of the fabric leads to better luster. Moreover, it was concluded that the surface roughness affects the luster. A rise in the roughness value of the woven fabric causes reduction in its luster property. Originality/value Optical properties of woven fabrics, which are mainly attributed through the measurement of luster, are important for qualifying the aesthetic characteristics of the fabrics with various weave structures. Bearing in mind the influence of fabric surface properties on the aesthetic features of cloths, obtaining information in this field is a guide for selecting the suitable fabric for various end uses.

2017 ◽  
Vol 21 (2) ◽  
pp. 111-133 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay ◽  
Vinay Kumar Midha ◽  
Nemai Chandra Ray

Purpose This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it. Design/methodology/approach Single base injected slub yarn structural parameters, vis-à-vis slub length, slub thickness and slub frequency, were varied during preparation of yarn samples under this research work. A total of 17 yarn samples were produced according to the Box and Bhenken design of the experiment. Subsequently knitted and woven (using injected slub yarns in the weft only) fabric samples were prepared from these yarns. Yarn and fabric samples were abraded with standard instruments to see the impact of yarn structural parameters on abrasive damage of fabric in terms of fabric mass loss and appearance deterioration. From the test results, empirical models relating to slub parameters and fabric abrasion behavior were developed through a backward elimination regression approach. Subsequently, a set of optimal parametric combinations was derived with multi-objective evolutionary algorithms by using MATLAB software. This was followed by ranking all optimal solutions through technique for order preference by similarity to idle solution (TOPSIS) score analysis. Findings The injected slub yarn’s structural parameters have a strong influence on the abrasive damage of knitted and woven fabric. It is seen that the best suitable parametric combination of slub parameters for achieving the least abrasive damage is not the same for knitted and woven fabric. Practical implications The spinner can explore this concept to find out the best suitable parametric combination during pattern making of injected slub yarn through MATLAB solution followed by TOPSIS score analysis based on their priority of criteria level to ensure better abrasion behavior of fabric produced. Originality/value Optimization of parametric combination of injected slub yarns will help to ensure production of fabric with most resistance to abrasion for specific applications. The studies showed that the optimal solution for woven and knitted fabrics is different. The result indicates that in the case of knitted fabric, comparatively lesser slub thickness is found to be suitable for getting better fabric abrasion resistance, whereas in the case of woven fabric, comparatively higher slub thickness is found suitable for the same.


2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (2) ◽  
pp. 110-120
Author(s):  
Mine Akgun

AbstractFabric surface tribology is an important area of study in upholstery fabrics, which is exposed to high friction and abrasion effects. In the studies on the tribology of upholstery fabrics, it is ensured that criteria such as better performance, less degradation, increased usage time, and user comfort are determined and taken into consideration in the woven fabric design. Surface roughness and friction coefficients are important parameters used in determining abrasion, deformation, and wear behaviors of fabrics. In this study, the surface abrasion behaviors of upholstery fabrics woven with basic and jacquard weave patterns and also different structural parameters were investigated in terms of the changes in surface roughness parameters (amplitude parameters: Ra, Rpm, and Rvm and hybrid parameters: Δa) and the changes in surface friction coefficients. These results were also related to the state of the visual changes in the fabrics. Rpm, Rvm, and Δa being roughness parameters were found to be important in the evaluation of the surface deformation of the fabrics after abrasion besides the Ra parameter. Results showed that the Δa roughness parameter could be suitable for evaluating the deformation of the textile structures to be used, particularly in sensitive applications.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Kura Alemayehu Beyene ◽  
Soliyana Gebeyaw

Purpose Friction is considered to be one property of cloth that has considerable importance in the fields of both technological and subjective assessment for surface properties of textile fabrics. The purpose of this study is to investigate the affective aspects of yarn and fabric structural parameters on the behavior of surface friction of plain woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach In this study, nine varieties of half-bleached cotton plain-woven fabrics with three weft yarn count (tex) and three weft thread density (ppc) are produced and will be examined for their frictional characteristics. The surface frictional properties of plain-woven fabrics were measured by using Kawabata (KES-Fb4) testing instrument. The ANOVA analysis is used to determine how yarn (count) and fabric (density) structural parameters does influence the surface friction properties of the fabrics. Also, the interaction effects between the factors (count and density) on the response variable (surface friction) of plain-woven fabrics. Findings The findings of this study revealed that the effects of weft yarn count and pick-density have statistically significant on the frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties at a 95% confidence interval. Thus, weft yarn count has a positive correlation with both coefficient of friction (MIU) and mean deviation of coefficient of friction (MMD) on frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties. On the other hand, pick density has a negative correlation with both MIU and MMD on frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties. The weft count, pick density and their interactions (Count X Density) have multicollinearity in the experiment term because the variance inflation factor values were greater than one. Originality/value The findings of this study can be routinely used across the textile industries and laboratories to provide a fundamental understanding regarding the surface frictional properties of the woven fabric for different end applications concerning the yarn structural parameters and fabric structural parameters. And the relationship of count and density with surface friction of plain woven fabrics.


2019 ◽  
Vol 90 (11-12) ◽  
pp. 1354-1371
Author(s):  
Marzieh Javadi Toghchi ◽  
Carmen Loghin ◽  
Irina Cristian ◽  
Christine Campagne ◽  
Pascal Bruniaux ◽  
...  

The main objective of the present study was to investigate the increase in the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of a set of five variants of three-dimensional (3D) warp interlock woven fabrics containing silver multifilament yarns arranged in a 3D orthogonal grid. The EMSE enlargement as a factor of increasing the quantity of the conductive material per unit area was investigated. The quantity of the conductive material per unit area in a 3D woven fabric can be enlarged by increasing either the yarn undulation or the number of conductive yarn systems, while the yarn density and yarn fineness are fixed. Thus, the binding depth of the conductive warp was gradually increased for the first four variants in order to increase the yarn undulation. Alternatively, the conductive weft system was doubled for the last variant with the aim of increasing the quantity of the conductive component. It should be noted that changing the weave structure requires less effort and energy while keeping the same threading of warps in the reed compared to altering the warp density. The EMSE was measured in an anechoic chamber and the shielding was satisfactory for all the variants in the frequency range of 1–6 GHz (19–44 dB). The results revealed that increasing only 7% of the waviness degree of the conductive warps led to 17% EMSE improvement due to increasing of the conductive yarns through the thickness of the variants. Moreover, no upward EMSE was detected for the last variant, despite the fact that the conductive weft system was doubled.


2018 ◽  
Vol 22 (3) ◽  
pp. 260-270 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shariful Islam ◽  
Shaikh Md. Mominul Alam ◽  
Shilpi Akter

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to facilitate the production of cotton spandex woven fabric with some user-friendly properties like wearer comfort, super stretch and elasticity. The findings could contribute to ease spandex production and to optimize its property of elasticity. Stretch or a super stretch property is generally desirable, as it can increase the comfort level of those who wear it. In this experiment, the difficulties which were identified while manufacturing cotton spandex woven fabric resolved after identification. Design/methodology/approach In this experiment, three types of cotton spandex woven fabrics, with different composition and constructions, were used to find out their elastic properties. Temperature ranging from 160°C to 200°C with the machine speed of 20 to 26 MPM (meter per minute) was applied with an adjusted industrial setting with the facilities of a stenter machine to optimize the properties of cotton spandex woven fabric. Findings The findings establish that the temperature treatment closely compacted the elastic portions with cotton fibers, giving stability to the spandex yarn, which as a result, influenced cotton spandex woven fabric’s elastic properties, namely, stretch, growth and recovery. The consequences of temperature on cotton spandex yarns were assessed using a microscope, and the results were subsequently analyzed. Research limitations/implications Because of the poor facilities in testing laboratory, only few tests with microscopic evaluation were conducted to assess the elastic performances of cotton spandex woven fabric. Practical implications It is a practice-based research, and the findings could be beneficial to personnel in the textile industry, who are responsible for the manufacturing of cotton spandex woven fabric. Social implications This research could enhance the wearer’s satisfaction, with some comfort elastic properties, which can have a positive influence over spandex clothing industries. Originality/value This research establishes that heat setting had a progressive influence on the production of cotton spandex woven fabric and for the optimization of its elastic performances. This research opens a possible way for scholars to further study in this field.


2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (2) ◽  
pp. 165-172 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hyun Ah Kim ◽  
Seung Jin Kim

Abstract This study examined the heat storage and release characteristics of ZrC-imbedded woven fabrics by light emission and thermal manikin experiments. The surface temperature of the ZrC-imbedded fabric was higher than that of the regular PET fabric. Furthermore, the Clo values of both the total and torso of the ZrC-imbedded fabric by the thermal manikin experiment were higher than those of the regular PET fabric, which suggests that the heat release is caused by far infrared rays emitted from the ZrC particles imbedded in the yarns as they receive light. This was confirmed by the higher emissivity and emissive power of the ZrC-imbedded fabric. However, the tactile hand of the ZrC-imbedded fabric needs to be improved by adjusting the structural parameters of the fabric and finishing process factors.


2019 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
pp. 231-243
Author(s):  
Linlin Bai ◽  
Jiu Zhou

Purpose The purpose of this paper, on innovative design of traditional weft-backed woven fabric, is to investigate a design principle and method for full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect to realize two types of double-faced shading effects for traditional weft-backed fabric that are impossible to be realized under plane design mode. In addition, the study on the color rendering law is conducive to the design application, and the effectiveness of the design method has been verified by the design practices. Design/methodology/approach This paper presents a design method for full-backed structure with two shaded weave databases (SWDs) by selecting two primary weaves (PWs), establishing the corresponding SWDs, selecting the proper compound structures for database of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. Color card fabric with 544 specimens is produced and their color values are measured, their color difference and variance are analyzed to evaluate the color rendering characteristics. Finally, double-faced weft-backed fabrics are produced under layered-combination design mode to verify the practicality of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. Findings Weft-backed woven fabrics with “SPDC” (same pattern and different color) and “DPDC” (different pattern and different color) shading effects can be produced using full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. The color expression is extremely enhanced (136 compound structures on one side for one color weft). In the shading process, two sets of wefts do not affect each other, and stable and ideal color shading effect with high color purity can be expressed according to the analyses on the L* (lightness) values, color purity, color differences (0.47–3.20) and variance (0.25–1.21) of the color card fabric. Originality/value Breaking through the structural limitations and achieving the double-faced shading effects that cannot be expressed in plane design mode. The research on two weft-backed fabric with the most basic weft-backed structure provides not only a theoretical base for further study on weft-backed structures, but also some references for structure innovation design of traditional weft-backed woven fabrics.


2014 ◽  
Vol 26 (1) ◽  
pp. 67-95
Author(s):  
Kadir Bilisik ◽  
Bekir Yildirim

Purpose – The aim of this study was to understand the stick-slip properties of single and multiple yarn pull-out in dry and treated polyester satin woven fabric in boundary regions. Design/methodology/approach – Polyester satin pattern woven fabric was used to conduct the pull-out tests in order to examining the kinetic region of the force-displacement curve. Data generated from this research help the authors to obtain stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force. Findings – It was found that stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depend on the number of pulled ends in the fabric, fabric sample dimensions and softening treatments. Stick-slip forces of polyester satin fabric in the multiple yarn pull-out test were higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dry polyester satin fabric was generally higher than those of the softening treated polyester satin fabric. In addition, the warp directional single and multiple yarn stick-slip and accumulative retraction forces in the dry and softening treated polyester fabrics were generally higher than those in the weft direction in the fabric edges due to fabric density. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric, whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response. Originality/value – The mechanism of stick-slip and accumulative retraction force of dry-treated polyester satin pattern woven fabrics were explained. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textiles and ballistic.


2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (4) ◽  
pp. 536-547
Author(s):  
Adeela Nasreen ◽  
Muhammad Umair ◽  
Khubab Shaker ◽  
Syed Talha Ali Hamdani ◽  
Yasir Nawab

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of materials, three dimensional (3D) structure and number of fabric layers on ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), air permeability and thickness of fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Total 24 fabrics samples were developed using two 3D structures and two weft materials. In warp direction cotton (CT) yarn and in weft direction polypropylene (PP) and polyester (PET) were used. Air permeability, thickness and UPF testings were performed and relationship among fabric layers, air permeability, thickness and UPF was developed. Findings UPF and thickness of fabrics increases with number of fabric layers, whereas air permeability decreases with the increase in number of fabric layers. Furthermore, change of multilayer structure from angle interlock to orthogonal interlock having same base weave does not give significant effect on UPF. However, change of material from polyester (PET) to polypropylene (PP) has a dominant effect on UPF. Minimum of three layers of cotton/polyester fabric, without any aid of ultraviolet radiation (UV) resistant coating, are required to achieve good. Cotton/polyester fabrics are more appropriate for outdoor application due to their long-term resistance with sunlight exposure. Originality/value Long-term exposure to UV is detrimental. So, there is need of proper selection of material and fabric to achieve ultraviolet protection. 3D fabrics have yarns in X, Y as well as in Z directions which provide better ultraviolet protection as compared to two dimensional (2D) fabrics. In literature, mostly work was done on ultraviolet protection of 2D fabrics and surface coating of fabrics. There is limited work found on UPF of 3D woven fabrics.


2011 ◽  
Vol 332-334 ◽  
pp. 791-794
Author(s):  
Yan Lv ◽  
Li Chen ◽  
Fei Sun

In response to the relationship between perform structural parameters and the composites properties, a newly geometrical modeling of 2D biaxial orthogonal woven fabric was established in this paper. Based on the yarn’s true configuration, the SEM image of the yarn cross-section was taken, geometrical parameters (the individual tow geometry and weaving pattern of the fabrics) are introduced in order to describe the general families of woven fabrics. The tow waviness can be described by combinations between undulated and straight segments and the tow cross-section can be described by lenticular shape. When the geometrical model was used to predict the structural properties of the fabric, the predicted values show good agreement with the measured ones. The geometrical model proposed here is intended as the foundation for further design and analytical of the mechanical properties of the composite materials reinforced with these fabrics.


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