Part 1

2017 ◽  
Vol 21 (3) ◽  
pp. 219-238 ◽  
Author(s):  
Debojyoti Ganguly ◽  
Chanchal Mondal ◽  
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

Purpose In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on the other hand, wool is responsible for resilience, softness and warmth properties. Chemically both the fibres are protein-based, but the amount of amino acids is different. Due to this, the dye absorption behaviours of the two fibres from the same dye-bath are different. Wool is become darker than the silk fibre, if both the fibres are dyed together in a single bath dyeing process. Design/methodology/approach Here the wool fibres are first pre-treated with a commercial synthetic tanning agent (syntan) Mesitol HWS at three different pH values of 2.2, 3.2 and 4.2 and at three different concentrations: 5, 10 and 15 per cent. Then the syntan pre-treated wool fibres are dyed together with silk fibres maintaining the blend ratio as 80:20 by Telon Red MR, Telon Yellow M4GL and Telon Blue MRLW with sodium sulphate at three different concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 per cent. Findings The dye absorbency of the syntan-treated wool fibres decreased with increase in syntan concentration, whereas the colour strength of silk fibres increased. The resist effectiveness of wool fibres is increased from 6 to 59 per cent with increase of syntan concentration. So after the dyeing process, the colour strength of syntan-treated wool fibres are almost same with the colour strength of silk fibres. The washing fastness of the samples is improved, and wash fastness behaviour of both wool and silk fibres is almost same. Originality/value This paper gives an idea about the one bath dyeing process of wool- and silk-blended fabrics to achieve solid dyeing effect.

2018 ◽  
Vol 22 (1) ◽  
pp. 26-45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Debojyoti Ganguly ◽  
Chanchal Mondal ◽  
Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury

Purpose The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to different absorption characteristics of wool and silk, two-stage dyeing is preferred in the industry. If the fibres are dyed together, the wool fibre becomes darker and the silk fibre becomes lighter after the dyeing process. Solid dyeing effect can be achieved using a single-bath dyeing process. Design/methodology/approach The dye-acceptor sites in the wool fibre are first blocked using one commercial syntan Mesitol HWS. Then, the syntan-treated wool and silk fibres (80:20 blend ratios) are dyed with Telon Navy AMF dyes in the presence of sodium sulphate. To explore the influence of Syntan, sodium sulphate and the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and to optimize the process, central composite design (CCD) of four factors and three levels was tested. Findings The design process is optimized using four independent variables: Mesitol HWS concentration, sodium sulphate concentration, pH of dyebath and temperature of dyeing. Three levels of Mesitol HWS concentration (5, 10 and 15 per cent), sodium sulphate concentration (10, 20 and 30 per cent), pH (2.5, 4 and 5.5) and temperature of dyeing (70, 80 and 900°C) were selected for this study. These variables are optimized using response surface regression equation of the ratio of K/S wool and K/S silk. The predicted equation matched well with the experimental data. Originality/value This paper proposes the use of one-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend fabric to reduce the dyeing time, process step and to save water.


2011 ◽  
Vol 233-235 ◽  
pp. 903-908
Author(s):  
Jun Hua Wang ◽  
Jian Feng Di ◽  
Yong Tang Jia

Desizing-scouring-bleaching-dyeing of cotton fabrics in one-bath was discussed in this paper. The appropriate reactive dyes, refined enzyme and H2O2 elimination agent and dyeing technology parameters were selected preciously and the optimum conditions were obtained: H2O2 (30%) 4 g/L, refined enzyme 2 g/L, Na2SiO3 2g/L, Peregal O 1 g/L, bath ratio 1:20, scoring and bleaching at 95°C for 45min. Then, adding sulfourea 12g/L, controlling pH 7, adding reactive red dye 3BS 3% in raffinate, dyeing at 35°C for 30min and fixing at 70°C for 30 min. Compared the one-bath process with the traditional one, the former can get similar performance on dyeing. In addition, the former shows such advantages as short time, high efficiency, low energy consumption and reduced sewage emission. “One-bath” dyeing process is a promising approach to replace the old one.


2012 ◽  
Vol 441 ◽  
pp. 116-121
Author(s):  
Guang Ming Wang ◽  
Lan Zhou ◽  
Jun Li Chen ◽  
Guang Jie Cheng ◽  
Zhong Fa Hu

In order to shorten dyeing process, increase yield and reduce consumption of water and alkaline, the one-bath two-stage heating dyeing process was used for reactive/disperse dyes. The key technology of this research was adding alkaline when polyester/viscose (cotton) blended fabrics were dyed by reactive dyes,and then adding acetic acid when dyed by disperse dyes. During this process, acetic acid and alkali neutralize, and sodium acetate and acetic acid form a buffer system, which greatly improves dyeing reproducibility. The results of factory trial showed that color strength and color fastness of polyester/viscose (cotton) blended fabrics dyed by this process were as same as those achieved by the traditional process.


2011 ◽  
Vol 239-242 ◽  
pp. 2112-2115 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guang Si Luo ◽  
Qian Wang

In this paper, the one bath dyeing technology of wool and silk was studied, which were colored with neolan dye. The best dyeing conditions of homochromatic property were obtained by the optimization of the dyeing temperature and heat preservation time and the adjustment of the auxiliaries, when the wool and silk dyeing in the same bath. Experiments show that the best homochromatic property of wool and silk in one bath dyeing was obtained when the dyeing temperature was 85°C-95°C, the heat preservation time was 30 minutes and the amount of sodium sulphate was 20g/L.


2020 ◽  
Vol 49 (3) ◽  
pp. 165-170
Author(s):  
Kashif Iqbal ◽  
Amjed Javid ◽  
Abdur Rehman ◽  
Aisha Rehman ◽  
Munir Ashraf ◽  
...  

Purpose This study aims to deal with the dyeing of nylon-/cotton-blended fabric in one bath using direct and acid dyes. Design/methodology/approach The cellulose in cotton/nylon-blended fabric was chemically modified using 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC) as cationizing agent to impart positive charge on the cellulose. The modified and unmodified blended fabrics were dyed in a single bath with direct and acid dyes under various concentrations of 0.5, 1, 2, 4 and 6 per cent on the weight of fabric by exhaust method. The dyeing of modified and unmodified fabrics was characterized through the properties such as K/S and colorfastness to washing, rubbing and light. Findings The modified fabric exhibited higher color yield, comparable rubbing fastness and good washing fastness. Originality/value The dye uptake was maximum in a single-bath dyeing process of nylon-/cotton-blended fabrics without electrolyte addition, which minimizes the impact of dyes on environment.


2020 ◽  
Vol 36 (8) ◽  
pp. 29-31

Purpose Reviews the latest management developments across the globe and pinpoints practical implications from cutting-edge research and case studies. Design/methodology/approach This briefing is prepared by an independent writer who adds their own impartial comments and places the articles in context. Findings The problem with developing a reputation of being something of an oracle in the business world is that all of a sudden, everyone expects you to pull off the trick of interpreting the future on a daily basis. Like a freak show circus act or one-hit wonder pop singer, people expect you to perform when they see you, and they expect you to perform the thing that made you famous, even if it is the one thing in the world you don’t want to do. And when you fail to deliver on these heightened expectations, you are dismissed as a one trick pony, however good that trick is in the first place. Originality/value The briefing saves busy executives and researchers hours of reading time by selecting only the very best, most pertinent information and presenting it in a condensed and easy-to-digest format.


Kybernetes ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 49 (4) ◽  
pp. 1083-1102
Author(s):  
Georgios N. Aretoulis ◽  
Jason Papathanasiou ◽  
Fani Antoniou

Purpose This paper aims to rank and identify the most efficient project managers (PMs) based on personality traits, using Preference Ranking Organization METHod for Enrichment Evaluations (PROMETHEE) methodology. Design/methodology/approach The proposed methodology relies on the five personality traits. These were used as the selection criteria. A questionnaire survey among 82 experienced engineers was used to estimate the required weights per personality trait. A second two-part questionnaire survey aimed at recording the PMs profile and assess the performance of personality traits per PM. PMs with the most years of experience are selected to be ranked through Visual PROMETHEE. Findings The findings suggest that a competent PM is the one that scores low on the “Neuroticism” trait and high especially on the “Conscientiousness” trait. Research limitations/implications The research applied a psychometric test specifically designed for Greek people. Furthermore, the proposed methodology is based on the personality characteristics to rank the PMs and does not consider the technical skills. Furthermore, the type of project is not considered in the process of ranking PMs. Practical implications The findings could contribute in the selection of the best PM that maximizes the project team’s performance. Social implications Improved project team communication and collaboration leading to improved project performance through better communication and collaboration. This is an additional benefit for the society, especially in the delivery of public infrastructure projects. A lot of public infrastructure projects deviate largely as far as cost and schedule is concerned and this is an additional burden for public and society. Proper project management through efficient PMs would save people’s money and time. Originality/value Identification of the best PMbased on a combination of multicriteria decision-making and psychometric tests, which focus on personality traits.


2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Ann Sophie K. Löhde ◽  
Giovanna Campopiano ◽  
Andrea Calabrò

PurposeChallenging the static view of family business governance, we propose a model of owner–manager relationships derived from the configurational analysis of managerial behavior and change in governance structure.Design/methodology/approachStemming from social exchange theory and building on the 4C model proposed by Miller and Le Breton-Miller (2005), we consider the evolving owner–manager relationship in four main configurations. On the one hand, we account for family businesses shifting from a generalized to a restricted exchange system, and vice versa, according to whether a family manager misbehaves in a stewardship-oriented governance structure or a nonfamily manager succeeds in building a trusting relationship in an agency-oriented governance structure. On the other hand, we consider that family firms will strengthen a generalized exchange system, rather than a restricted one, according to whether a family manager contributes to the stewardship-oriented culture in the business or a nonfamily manager proves to be driven by extrinsic rewards. Four scenarios are analyzed in terms of the managerial behavior and governance structure that characterize the phases of the relationship between owners and managers.FindingsVarious factors trigger managerial behavior, making the firm deviate from or further build on what is assumed by stewardship and agency theories (i.e. proorganizational versus opportunistic behavior, respectively), which determine the governance structure over time. Workplace deviance, asymmetric altruism and patriarchy on the one hand, and proorganizational behavior, relationship building and long-term commitment on the other, are found to determine how the manager behaves and thus characterize the owner's reactions in terms of governance mechanisms. This enables us to present a dynamic view of governance structures, which adapt to the actual attitudes and behaviors of employed managers.Research limitations/implicationsAs time is a relevant dimension affecting individual behavior and triggering change in an organization, one must consider family business governance as being dynamic in nature. Moreover, it is not family membership that determines the most appropriate governance structure but the owner–manager relationship that evolves over time, thus contributing to the 4C model.Originality/valueThe proposed model integrates social exchange theory and the 4C model to predict changes in governance structure, as summarized in the final framework we propose.


Target ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (2) ◽  
pp. 319-338 ◽  
Author(s):  
Teresa Iribarren

This article explores translational literary Web 2.0 practices and user-generated cultural creations on the Internet, focusing on video poetry that re-creates canonical poets’ bodies of work. It will be argued that the use of for-profit platforms like YouTube and Vimeo by indie creators and translators of video poetry favours the emergence of new translational attitudes, practices and objects that have positive but also contentious effects. One the one hand, these online mediators explore new poetic expressions and tend to make the most of the potential for dissemination of poetic heritage, providing visibility to non-hegemonic literatures. On the other hand, however, these translational digitally-born practices and creations by voluntary and subaltern mediators might reinforce the hegemonic position of large American Internet corporations at the risk of commodifying cultural capital, consolidating English as a lingua franca and perhaps, in the long run, even fostering a potentially monocultural and internationally homogeneous aesthetics.


2011 ◽  
Vol 65 (1) ◽  
pp. 61-66 ◽  
Author(s):  
Milena Miljkovic ◽  
Milovan Purenovic ◽  
Mile Novakovic ◽  
Sonja Randjelovic

In this study the influence of the different fluorescent brightener Periblanc BA concentrations on the degree of knitted cotton fabric whiteness was investigated. Two consecutive experimental runs were performed. The first was the bleaching of the knitted cotton fabric with hydrogen peroxide using the methods of two and single bath exhaustion while the second was the optical bleaching with fluorescent brightener Periblanc BA using the exhaustion method. CIE Whiteness Index and Tint value were measured on the Color-Eye 3000 spectrophotometer at the standard illuminant D65 (Ice-Texicon, d/8, D65/10?) while K/S values were determined using the Kubelka Munk equation. The results show that cotton fabric bleached with fluorescent brightener Periblanc BA after bleaching with hydrogen peroxide using two bath exhaustion method has higher degree of whiteness (118.8) with a reddish tint in comparison to the one bleached with hydrogen peroxide using single bath method (106.1).


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