Ethnobotanical study on plants used to dye traditional costumes by the Baiku Yao nationality of China

Background The Baiku Yao is a branch of the Yao nationality in China. The unique dying process of traditional clothing employed by these people has distinct national characteristics, a profound impact on the production and life of local people, and important research value. For this reason, it is important to investigate and document the dyeing plants and the traditional knowledge involved in the dyeing of Baku Yao traditional clothing. Methodology Information on dyeing plants was obtained using the free-list method and interviews with 61 Baiku Yao informants in Guangxi and Guizhou from January 2020 to August 2021. Based on the free-list method, we evaluated and screened out important plants by calculating the cognitive salience value of each plant. Results The results showed that the people of Baiku Yao have accumulated rich traditional knowledge of dyeing plants and long-term dyeing and other processes. We collected 23 species and recorded the related traditional knowledge, such as the Baiku Yao name, life form, habitat, part(s) used, application type, usage, and area used. The utilization of dyeing plants has a strong relationship with ethnic culture. The Baiku Yao uses unique anti-dyeing material (Ailanthus vilmoriniana) in the cotton dyeing process, they call it “the mother tree”. As well as, the results also showed that 15 plants (65.2%) have medicinal value and can be used to treat 18 aliments, and wild plants play a very important role in the life of the Baiku Yao. Conclusion These plants not only meet the color needs of the Baiku Yao people but also have health care effects, aligning with the trends toward green dyeing and the health contentiousness of modern people. This study provides a reference for the inheritance and development of Baiku Yao traditional clothing dyeing culture, will aid the identification of new natural, safe and healthy textile dyes, and is of positive significance in promoting regional economic development, national cultural inheritance, and biodiversity protection.

Deep Eutectic Solvent Dyeing of Cellulose Acetate Nanofibers With Disperse Dyes: Kinetics, Isotherm and Thermodynamic Studies

Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) was introduced more than a decade ago and has been used in variety of applications based on their unique chemical and physical properties. Recently, they have shown a considerable attention in various sectors including nanotechnology because they have distinctive features as “New green solvents”. Within this scope of work, we introduced choline chloride (CC) as a DES which is nontoxic, inexpensive and has tendency to improve color yield properties of disperse dyes on the nanofibers membrane. Cellulose acetate nanofibers (CANF) were electrospun and dyed with Color Index Disperse Red 277, Color Index Disperse Blue 165:1, and Color Index Disperse Yellow 211 in Choline chloride:Ethylene glycol (CC:EG) media and Choline chloride:Urea (CC:Urea) media by using high-temperature exhaust method. Results revealed that dyeing of CANF by CC:EG media has good color fixation properties than CC:Urea media. The dyed samples were characterized by FTIR and SEM. Further, the thermodynamic, standard affinities, and kinetic parameters have also been analyzed. The proposed dyeing of CANF with DES showed excellent calorimetric properties within a short interval of time as compared to conventional dyeing process.

Evaluation of Color Properties of Wool Fabrics Dyed with Calligonum comosum at Different Dye Conditions

In this search, the wool fabric was dyed with a natural dye Calligonum comosum (Callig. Co. dye); the dyeing process was applied under different conditions by changing dye bath temperature, time of dyeing, and pH of dye bath also using different mordants. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was determined for each dyed wool sample. The role of these dying conditions on the via color strength analysis their effects on the reflectance spectra were investigated using the spectro-photometer tool, CIE tristimulus values, and the color parameters. The dye-ability strength and fastness to washing and perspiration properties of these wool samples dyed with (Callig. Co. dye) were carried out spectrophotometrically and evaluated the antimicrobial activity for blank and dyed wool fabrics via gram-positive and gram-negative was followed. The results showed that dyeing wool fabrics with (Callig. Co. dye) increased their protective abilities markedly, and they have effective protection against UV rays, also improving their antimicrobial activity. Moreover, Different conditions of the dye bath changed the optical properties noticeably. The present study will be useful for dermatologists advising patients regarding the UPF properties of clothes made from natural fabrics (wool) and dyed with natural colorants (Callig. Co. dye).

Synthesis of Indigo-Dyes from Indole Derivatives by Unspecific Peroxygenases and Their Application for In-Situ Dyeing

Tyrian purple (also known as royal or imperial purple) is the oldest known commercial pigment and still one of the most expensive dyes, often associated with the wardrobes of clergy and royalty. It is a brominated derivative of indigo, a natural dye that has been used since 4000 BC. Moreover, just recently, the therapeutic value of indigoids for the treatment of several disorders was discovered. The manufacturing of indigo derivatives by the existing chemical routes has become increasingly uninteresting due to the use of aggressive reagents, expensive starting materials and high-energy costs. Thus, both dyestuff manufacturers and the pharmaceutical industry are interested in the development of gentle preparation methods of indigoids from simple precursors. Here, we describe a simple enzymatic method for the one-step synthesis of Tyrian purple and other indigo derivatives with fungal peroxygenases (UPO, EC 1.11.2.1). The reaction does not require complex co-substrates and works well in phosphate buffers with H2O2 (<0.1 wt%) and less than 5% (v/v) acetonitrile as co-solvent. We demonstrate the scaling up of the reaction to 10 Liters and established thereupon an environmentally friendly combined synthesis and in-situ dyeing process, further simplifying the manufacturing of vat-dyed fabrics. Eventually, we screened a number of halogen-substituted indoles in the search for novel indigo derivatives, which may be of interest for pharmaceutical and/or dyeing purposes.

Effect of Perforation Dyeing Technique on Color Difference, Colorfastness, and Basic Density of Living Red-Heart Chinese Fir

Red-heart Chinese fir is an excellent geographic provenance of Cunninghamia lanceolata, with high-value red heartwood. However, the formation of red heartwood is usually slow. To quickly cultivate red-heart Chinese fir, we studied perforation dyeing technology on living trees that were 7 years old and efficient in high-value red heartwood formation. Reactive dye (%), penetrant (%), KH2PO4 (%), and pH were selected as influencing factors, and an orthogonal test (L9(3)4) was used. The results showed that the total color difference between the experimental and CK groups ranged from 13.74 to 26.86 NBS, which was a significant visual perception (above 12 NBS). The total color difference before and after soaking in water for 6 h ranged from 2.30 to 5.12 NBS, which belonged to the detectable and identifiable value of the human eye (2~5 NBS). After the injection of the dye liquid, the wood basic density (WBD) was significantly affected after one year. After a comprehensive analysis of wood color difference, colorfastness, and WBD of the orthogonal test, the best dyeing process of juvenile red-heart Chinese fir was reactive dye: 0.8%, penetrant: 0.05%, KH2PO4: 0.3%, and pH: 3.5. The results of this study can provide a reference to improve the value of red-heart Chinese fir, a fast-cultivated, high-value decorative wood material.

PENERAPAN PEWARNA ALAMI BIJI ALPUKAT PADA KAIN KATUN

ABSTRAKBiji alpukat dapat diekstrak menjadi zat warna alam karena mengandung senyawa tanin yang dapat menimbulkan warna cokelat atau kecokelatan. Kelemahan zat warna alam dalam proses pewarnaan tekstil yakni memiliki ketahanan luntur yang rendah. Oleh karena itu, pada proses pencelupan bahan tekstil dengan zat warna alam dibutuhkan proses fiksasi agar warna memiliki ketahanan luntur yang baik. Pewarna alami dari biji alpukat telah diterapkan pada kain katun. Ketahanan luntur pewarna alami telah diuji dengan memvariasikan massa tawas sebagai bahan fiksasi terhadap nilai perubahan intensitas cahaya pada air residu hasil pencucian kain katun. Perlakuan menggunakan variasi massa tawas 10g hingga 60g dengan waktu pencelupan selama 10 menit. Desain penelitian terdiri dari ekstraksi biji alpukat sebagai sumber zat warna alam, mordanting dan pencelupan kain katun ke dalam larutan zat warna, fiksasi kain katun, dan pengujian ketahanan luntur warna pada kain katun menggunakan luxmeter setelah pencucian menggunakan air biasa dan air deterjen. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa sampel yang menggunakan massa tawas 60g menghasilkan tingkat kelunturan warna paling kecil dengan nilai perubahan intensitas cahaya 9,58lux pada hasil pencucian dengan air biasa dan 3,11lux pada hasil pencucian dengan air deterjen. Semakin tinggi massa tawas yang digunakan sebagai bahan fiksasi pada kain katun, maka pewarna alami biji alpukat memiliki ketahanan luntur yang semakin baik. Penggunaan sampel tawas 60g sebagai bahan fiksasi efektif dalam menjaga ketahanan luntur pewarna alami biji alpukat pada kain katun. Kata kunci: Biji Alpukat; Kain Katun; Pewarna Alami; Tawas. ABSTRACTAvocado seeds could be extracted into natural dyes because they contained of tannin. Tannin as a dyes substances would cause brown or brownish color. The weakness of natural dyes in the textile dyeing process that has a low fade resistance. Therefore, the dyeing process of textile materials with natural dyes were needed fixation process in order that color had a well fade resistance. The natural dyes from avocado seeds had been applicated on cotton textile. The fade resistance of natural dyes had been tested by varying the mass of Al2(SO4)3as a fixation to the value of light intensity difference on the residue water of the cotton textile washing. The treatment used the mass variation of 10g to 60g Al2(SO4)3by dyeing for 10 minutes. The study design consisted of avocado seeds extraction as a source of natural dyes, mordanting of cotton textile, dyeing of cotton textile in a dye solution, fixation of cotton textile and test the fade resistance of natural dyes on cotton textile using a luxmeter after washing by water and detergent solution. The results showed that the sample used a mass of 60g Al2(SO4)3produced the smallest color fade degree with the value of light intensity difference on the residue water was 9.58lux of washing by water and 3.11lux of washing by detergent solution. The higher mass of Al2(SO4)3was used as fixation on cotton textile, the natural dyes of avocado seeds had a better fade resistance. The using of 60g Al2(SO4)3sample as a fixation material was effective for kept the fade resistance of natural dyes from avocado seeds on cotton textile. Keywords: Avocado Seeds; Cotton Textile; Natural Dyes.

Numerical Simulation of Dyeing Process of Cotton with Natural Dye

Cotton dyeing is a very complex process with many variables in which different phenomena occur simultaneously. This study aimed to describe the cotton dyeing process by natural dye, using a mathematical model that consists of three mass conservation equations that depict dyeing cotton in cones, taking a representative volume element at the micro, meso, and macroscales. The first equation describes the concentration changes of the dye in the solution, taking into account the diffusive, convective, adsorptive, and reactive effects. The second equation describes the changes in dye concentration in cotton fiber, considering the diffusive, adsorptive, and reactive effects within an intermediate scale. The last equation describes changes in the concentration of dye in the solution on the macroscale, based on the characteristics of the equipment and the difference in concentration before and after passing through the fiber. In addition, a fluid continuity equation was incorporated, taking into account Darcy’s law. In the simulation of the dyeing process with synthetic dye with initial concentrations of 0.408 and 2.06 kg/m3, RMSE of 0.00221 and 0.0289 kg/m3 were obtained, respectively. For the simulation of a dyeing process with natural dyeing, a behavior similar to the experimental data was obtained.

Synthesis of Adsorbent from Bagasse for Methylene Blue Adsorption

The ability of bagasse adsorbents to adsorb methylene blue without activation using 0.5 M H2SO4 solution was examined. Methylene blue is widely used in the textile industry because it produces bright colors, and the dyeing process is fast and easy. This research aims to determine the optimum adsorption conditions, namely the variations in contact time, dye concentration, adsorbent mass, and pH effect on methylene blue, which were carried out using the batch method. Furthermore, the adsorbents were characterized by FT-IR and SEM. The optimum state of the bagasse adsorbent to adsorb methylene blue dye has a mass of 0.5 grams, a contact time of 30 minutes, a concentration of 50 ppm, and a pH of 5. The character of the adsorbent after activation with H2SO4 was better than without activation. The highest adsorption efficiency of methylene blue dye in the batch method was 99.67%. The FTIR spectrum of the bagasse adsorbent showed OH, C-H, C=O, C=C, and C-O functional groups. The adsorption isotherm model for methylene blue dye follows the Langmuir isotherm since the graph obtained is linear with the correlation coefficient (R2) = 1, where the adsorbent has a homogeneous surface.

Electrochemical Dyeing of Cotton Fiber for Environmental Protection

For environment-friendly dyeing, electrochemical dyeing method was researched. The low consumption of additives during dyeing is beneficial to environmental protection,and the electric field of electrochemical dyeing reduces the salt. Moreover, the K/S value of the fabric increases significantly at the same dye concentration. The alkaline electrolyte in the electrolytic cell may enhance the self-corrosion of the electrode during the electrochemical dyeing process. The results show that the electrochemical dyeing can reduce the amount of additives during the dyeing process.