Comparison Of Norcsex'88 CV-580 Sar, Wavescan Buoy, And Numerical Wave Model Directional Wave Parameters

Author(s):  
J.P. Pedersen ◽  
T. Guneriussen ◽  
H. Johnsen ◽  
K.A. Hogda ◽  
P. Wind
2019 ◽  
Vol 36 (10) ◽  
pp. 1933-1944 ◽  
Author(s):  
Haoyu Jiang

AbstractNumerical wave models can output partitioned wave parameters at each grid point using a spectral partitioning technique. Because these wave partitions are usually organized according to the magnitude of their wave energy without considering the coherence of wave parameters in space, it can be difficult to observe the spatial distributions of wave field features from these outputs. In this study, an approach for spatially tracking coherent wave events (which means a cluster of partitions originating from the same meteorological event) from partitioned numerical wave model outputs is presented to solve this problem. First, an efficient traverse algorithm applicable for different types of grids, termed breadth-first search, is employed to track wave events using the continuity of wave parameters. Second, to reduce the impact of the garden sprinkler effect on tracking, tracked wave events are merged if their boundary outlines and wave parameters on these boundaries are both in good agreement. Partitioned wave information from the Integrated Ocean Waves for Geophysical and other Applications dataset is used to test the performance of this spatial tracking approach. The test results indicate that this approach is able to capture the primary features of partitioned wave fields, demonstrating its potential for wave data analysis, model verification, and data assimilation.


2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 3967-3989
Author(s):  
Y. M. Fan ◽  
H. Günther ◽  
C. C. Kao ◽  
B. C. Lee

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to enhance the accuracy of numerical wave forecasts through data assimilation during typhoon period. A sequential data assimilation scheme was modified to enable its use with partitions of directional wave spectra. The performance of the system was investigated with respect to operational applications specifically for typhoon wave. Two typhoons that occurred in 2006 around Taiwan (Kaemi and Shanshan) were used for this case study. The proposed data assimilation method increased the forecast accuracy in terms of wave parameters, such as wave height and period. After assimilation, the shapes of directional spectra were much closer to those reported from independent observations.


2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (1) ◽  
pp. 73-80
Author(s):  
Y. M. Fan ◽  
H. Günther ◽  
C. C. Kao ◽  
B. C. Lee

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to enhance the accuracy of numerical wave forecasts through data assimilation during typhoon periods. A sequential data assimilation scheme was modified to enable its use with partitions of directional wave spectra. The performance of the system was investigated with respect to operational applications, specifically for typhoon waves. Two typhoons that occurred in 2006 around Taiwan (Kaemi and Shanshan) were used for this case study. The proposed data assimilation method increased the forecast accuracy in terms of wave parameters, such as wave height and period. After assimilation, the shapes of directional spectra were much closer to those reported from independent observations.


Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.


2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma ◽  
Laura Tuomi

Abstract In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Jesbin George ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
R. Gowthaman ◽  
Jai Singh

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.


2020 ◽  
Vol 209 ◽  
pp. 107513
Author(s):  
Yen-Pin Lin ◽  
Ching-Jer Huang ◽  
Sheng-Hsueh Chen

2017 ◽  
Vol 77 ◽  
pp. 1-16 ◽  
Author(s):  
George Lavidas ◽  
Vengatesan Venugopal ◽  
Daniel Friedrich
Keyword(s):  

Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Csaba Pakozdi ◽  
Arun Kamath

Abstract In situations where the calculation of ocean wave propagation and impact on structures are required, fast numerical solvers are desired in order to find relevant wave events. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD)-based numerical wave tanks (NWTs) emphasize on the hydrodynamic details such as fluid–structure interaction, which make them less ideal for the event identification due to the large computational resources involved. Therefore, a computationally efficient numerical wave model is needed to identify the events both for offshore deep-water wave fields and coastal wave fields where the bathymetry and coastline variations have strong impact on wave propagation. In the current paper, a new numerical wave model is represented that solves the Laplace equation for the flow potential and the nonlinear kinematic and dynamics free surface boundary conditions. This approach requires reduced computational resources compared to CFD-based NWTs. The resulting fully nonlinear potential flow solver REEF3D::FNPF uses a σ-coordinate grid for the computations. This allows the grid to follow the irregular bottom variation with great flexibility. The free surface boundary conditions are discretized using fifth-order weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) finite difference methods and the third-order total variation diminishing (TVD) Runge–Kutta scheme for time stepping. The Laplace equation for the potential is solved with Hypre’s stabilized bi-conjugated gradient solver preconditioned with geometric multi-grid. REEF3D::FNPF is fully parallelized following the domain decomposition strategy and the message passing interface (MPI) communication protocol. The numerical results agree well with the experimental measurements in all tested cases and the model proves to be efficient and accurate for both offshore and coastal conditions.


Author(s):  
Zaibin Lin ◽  
Ling Qian ◽  
Wei Bai ◽  
Zhihua Ma ◽  
Hao Chen ◽  
...  

Abstract A 3-Dimensional numerical wave tank based on the fully nonlinear potential flow theory has been developed in OpenFOAM, where the Laplace equation of velocity potential is discretized by Finite Volume Method. The water surface is tracked by the semi-Eulerian-Lagrangian method, where water particles on the free surface are allowed to move vertically only. The incident wave is generated by specifying velocity profiles at inlet boundary with a ramp function at the beginning of simulation to prevent initial transient disturbance. Additionally, an artificial damping zone is located at the end of wave tank to sufficiently absorb the outgoing waves before reaching downstream boundary. A five-point smoothing technique is applied at the free surface to eliminate the saw-tooth instability. The proposed wave model is validated against theoretical results and experimental data. The developed solver could be coupled with multiphase Navier-Stokes solvers in OpenFOAM in the future to establish an integrated versatile numerical wave tank for studying efficiently wave structure interaction problems.


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