Local Analysis of Wave Fields Produced From Hindcasted Rogue Wave Sea States

Author(s):  
Frédéric Dias ◽  
Joseph Brennan ◽  
Sonia Ponce de León ◽  
Colm Clancy ◽  
John Dudley

Global-scale wave climate models, such as WAVEWATCH III, are widely used in oceanography to hindcast the sea state that occurred in a particular geographic area at a particular time. These models are applied in rogue-wave science for characterizing the sea states associated with observations of rogue waves (e.g., the well known “Draupner” [1] or “Andrea” [2] waves). While spectral models are generally successful in providing realistic representations of the sea state and are able to handle a large number of physical factors, they are also based on a very coarse grained representation of the wave field and therefore unsuitable for a detailed resolution of the wave field and refined wave-height statistics. On the other hand, local wave models based on first-principle fluid dynamics equations (such as the Higher Order Spectral Method) are able to represent wave fields in detail, but in general they are hard to interface with the full complexity of real-world sea conditions. This paper displays our efforts in coupling these two types of models in order to enhance our understanding of past extreme events and provide scope for rogue wave risk evaluation. In particular, high resolution numerical simulations of a wave field similar to the “Andrea” wave one are performed, allowing for accurate analysis of the event.

Author(s):  
Qiuchen Guo ◽  
Mohammad-Reza Alam

Here, we show that location of an upcoming rogue wave can be inferred, well in advance, from spatial distribution of energy flux across the ocean surface. We use a statistical approach, and by investigating hundreds of numerical rogue wave realizations in weakly nonlinear wave fields establish a quantitative metric via which predictions can be made. Direct simulations are performed by a higher-order spectral method (HOS), and JONSWAP distribution is used to initialize the wave field. The presented metric may establish a readily achievable measure to identify turbulent locations within a sea, through which timely preventive measures can be taken to minimize damages to lives and properties.


2012 ◽  
Vol 25 (6) ◽  
pp. 1814-1826 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dimitrios Giannakis ◽  
Andrew J. Majda

Abstract An information-theoretic framework is developed to assess the predictive skill and model error in imperfect climate models for long-range forecasting. Here, of key importance is a climate equilibrium consistency test for detecting false predictive skill, as well as an analogous criterion describing model error during relaxation to equilibrium. Climate equilibrium consistency enforces the requirement that long-range forecasting models should reproduce the climatology of prediction observables with high fidelity. If a model meets both climate consistency and the analogous criterion describing model error during relaxation to equilibrium, then relative entropy can be used as an unbiased superensemble measure of the model’s skill in long-range coarse-grained forecasts. As an application, the authors investigate the error in modeling regime transitions in a 1.5-layer ocean model as a Markov process and identify models that are strongly persistent but their predictive skill is false. The general techniques developed here are also useful for estimating predictive skill with model error for Markov models of low-frequency atmospheric regimes.


2013 ◽  
Vol 558 ◽  
pp. 489-500 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patrick Norman ◽  
Claire Davis ◽  
Cédric Rosalie ◽  
Nik Rajic

The application of Lamb waves to damage and/or defect detection in structures is typicallyconfined to lower frequencies in regimes where only the lower order modes propagate in order to simplifyinterpretation of the scattered wave-fields. Operation at higher frequencies offers the potentialto extend the sensitivity and diagnostic capability of this technique, however there are technical challengesassociated with the measurement and interpretation of this data. Recent work by the authorshas demonstrated the ability of fibre Bragg gratings (FBGs) to measure wave-fields at frequencies inexcess of 2 MHz [1]. However, when this work was extended to other thinner plate specimens it wasfound that at these higher frequencies, the cyanoacrylate adhesive (M-Bond 200) used to attach theFBG sensors to the plate was significantly affecting the propagation of the waves. Laser vibrometrywas used to characterise the wave-field in the region surrounding the adhesive and it was found that theself-adhesive retro-reflective tape applied to aid with this measurement was also affecting the wavefieldin the higher frequency regime. This paper reports on an experimental study into the influence ofboth of these materials on the propagating wave-field. Three different lengths of retro-reflective tapewere placed in the path of Lamb waves propagating in an aluminium plate and laser vibrometry wasused to measure the wave-field upstream and downstream of the tape for a range of different excitationfrequencies. The same experiment was conducted using small footprint cyanoacrylate film samplesof different thickness. The results show that both of these surface-mount materials attenuate, diffractand scatter the incoming waves as well as introducing a phase lag. The degree of influence of thesurface layer appears to be a function of its material properties, the frequency of the incoming waveand the thickness and footprint of the surface layer relative to the base material thickness. Althoughfurther work is required to characterise the relative influence of each of these variables, investigationsto date show that for the measurement of Lamb Waves on thin structures, careful considerationshould be given to the thickness and footprint of the adhesive layer and sensor, particularly in the highfrequency regime, so as to minimise their effect on the measurement.


1993 ◽  
Vol 251 ◽  
pp. 21-53 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergei I. Badulin ◽  
Victor I. Shrira

The propagation of guided internal waves on non-uniform large-scale flows of arbitrary geometry is studied within the framework of linear inviscid theory in the WKB-approximation. Our study is based on a set of Hamiltonian ray equations, with the Hamiltonian being determined from the Taylor-Goldstein boundary-value problem for a stratified shear flow. Attention is focused on the fundamental fact that the generic smooth non-uniformities of the large-scale flow result in specific singularities of the Hamiltonian. Interpreting wave packets as particles with momenta equal to their wave vectors moving in a certain force field, one can consider these singularities as infinitely deep potential holes acting quite similarly to the ‘black holes’ of astrophysics. It is shown that the particles fall for infinitely long time, each into its own ‘black hole‘. In terms of a particular wave packet this falling implies infinite growth with time of the wavenumber and the amplitude, as well as wave motion focusing at a certain depth. For internal-wave-field dynamics this provides a robust mechanism of a very specific conservative and moreover Hamiltonian irreversibility.This phenomenon was previously studied for the simplest model of the flow non-uniformity, parallel shear flow (Badulin, Shrira & Tsimring 1985), where the term ‘trapping’ for it was introduced and the basic features were established. In the present paper we study the case of arbitrary flow geometry. Our main conclusion is that although the wave dynamics in the general case is incomparably more complicated, the phenomenon persists and retains its most fundamental features. Qualitatively new features appear as well, namely, the possibility of three-dimensional wave focusing and of ‘non-dispersive’ focusing. In terms of the particle analogy, the latter means that a certain group of particles fall into the same hole.These results indicate a robust tendency of the wave field towards an irreversible transformation into small spatial scales, due to the presence of large-scale flows and towards considerable wave energy concentration in narrow spatial zones.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Saulo Mendes ◽  
Alberto Scotti ◽  
Paul Stansell

<p><strong>(manuscript accepted into Applied Ocean Research https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344786014)</strong></p><p><strong>Abstract</strong></p><p>Nearly four decades have elapsed since the first efforts to obtain a realistic narrow-banded model for extreme wave crests and heights were made, resulting in a couple of dozen different exceeding probability distributions. These models reflect results of numerical simulations and storm records measured from oil platforms, buoys, and more recently, satellite data. Nevertheless, no consensus has been achieved in either deterministic or operational approaches. Typically, distributions found in the literature analyze a very large set of waves with large variations in sea-state parameters while neglecting homogeneous smaller samples, such that we lack a suitable definition for the sample size and homogeneity of sea variables, also known as sampling variability (Bitner-Gregersen et al., 2020). Naturally, a possible consequence of such sample size inconsistency is the apparent disagreement between several studies regarding the prediction of rogue wave occurrence, as some studies can report less rogue wave heights while others report more rogue waves or the same statistics predicted by Longuet-Higgins (1952), sometimes a combination of the three in the very same study (Stansell, 2004; Cherneva et al., 2005). In this direction, we have obtained a dimensionless parameter capable of measuring how large the deviations in sea state variables can be so that accuracy in wave statistics is preserved.  In particular, we have defined which samples are too heterogeneous to create an accurate description of the uneven distribution of rogue wave likelihood among different storms (Stansell, 2004). Though the literature is rich in physical bounds for single waves, here we describe empirical physical limits for the ensemble of waves (such as the significant steepness) devised to bound these variables within established and prospective wave distributions. Furthermore, this work supplies a combination of sea state parameters that provide guidance on the influence of sea states influence on rogue wave occurrence. Based on these empirical limits, we conjecture a mathematical model for the dependence of the expected maximum of normalized wave heights and crests on the sea state parameters, thus explaining the uneven distribution of rogue wave likelihood among different storms collected by infrared laser altimeters of the North Alwyn oil platform discussed in Stansell (2004). Finally, we demonstrate that for heights and crests beyond 90% of their thresholds (H>2H<sub>1/3</sub> for heights), the exceeding probability becomes stratified, i.e. they resemble layers of probability curves according to each sea state, suggesting the existence of a dynamical definition for rogue waves rather than purely statistical.</p><p> </p><p><strong>References</strong></p><p>Bitner-Gregersen, E. M., Gramstad, O., Magnusson, A., Malila, M., 2020. Challenges in description of nonlinear waves due to sampling variability. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 8, 279.</p><p>Longuet-Higgins, M., 1952. On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves. Journal of Marine Research 11, 245–265.</p><p>Stansell, P., 2004. Distribution of freak wave heights measured in the north sea. Appl. Ocean Res. 26, 35–48.</p><p>Cherneva, Z., Petrova, P., Andreeva, N., Guedes Soares, C., 2005. Probability distributions of peaks, troughs and heights of wind waves measured in the black sea coastal zone. Coastal Engineering 52, 599–615.</p>


Author(s):  
Min Han Oh ◽  
Ki Myung Lee ◽  
Young Sik Jang

A spectral fatigue analysis method is most popularly applied for the detailed design of FPSOs. As the environmental loads at the installation site are directly calculated in the spectral analysis, this method gives the most reliable results although it needs much time-consuming works to fully reflect the environmental loads. As the technology of wave measurements advances, the measured wave data increase. Also their spectral models are very complicated because these include many wave components such as swells and wind seas. Since much time and effort are needed to treat these enormous and complicated wave data for the spectral fatigue analysis, a rational idealization of wave data is definitely required. In this paper, wave scatter diagram at Offshore Nigeria was reviewed and their idealization method was proposed. The influence level of each sea state of the wave scatter diagram was identified considering the fatigue damage levels estimated from the significant wave heights and dominant fatigue load RAOs. The sea states giving small fatigue damages were lumped symmetrically by merging or disregarding while those giving large fatigue damages were kept as original. For the validation of this method, the comparisons of dominant fatigue loads and representative fatigue damages were presented for the idealized wave scatter diagram and the original one. From these comparison works, it was confirmed that the idealized wave scatter diagram gives reliable results with reduced amount of calculation work.


Geophysics ◽  
1984 ◽  
Vol 49 (2) ◽  
pp. 124-131 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jeno Gazdag ◽  
Piero Sguazzero

Under the horizontally layered velocity assumption, migration is defined by a set of independent ordinary differential equations in the wavenumber‐frequency domain. The wave components are extrapolated downward by rotating their phases. This paper shows that one can generalize the concepts of the phase‐shift method to media having lateral velocity variations. The wave extrapolation procedure consists of two steps. In the first step, the wave field is extrapolated by the phase‐shift method using ℓ laterally uniform velocity fields. The intermediate result is ℓ reference wave fields. In the second step, the actual wave field is computed by interpolation from the reference wave fields. The phase shift plus interpolation (PSPI) method is unconditionally stable and lends itself conveniently to migration of three‐dimensional data. The performance of the methods is demonstrated on synthetic examples. The PSPI migration results are then compared with those obtained from a finite‐difference method.


Author(s):  
Shuai Liu ◽  
Xinshu Zhang ◽  
Xingyu Song ◽  
Ke Chen

Abstract A series of directly numerical simulations of potential Euler equation have been performed using high-order spectral (HOS) method, to investigate the nonlinear wave statistics and the probability of rogue wave occurrence in crossing sea states. Several typical crossing sea states in deep water with different wave steepness are chosen for the computations. The ensemble statistical properties for those crossing waves are measured, including the temporal evolution of directional and omnidirectional wave spectra, exceedance probability of wave crest amplitude, as well as the kurtosis and skewness of free surface elevations. Particular attention is paid to the correlation between kurtosis and rogue wave occurrence. Our numerical results suggest that the global wave steepness plays a significant role in the statistical properties of crossing seas. Results also show the dependence of rogue wave occurrence probability on the kurtosis of free surface elevations.


1971 ◽  
Vol 49 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-131 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. G. Baines

This paper considers the linear inviscid reflexion of internal/inertial waves from smooth bumpy surfaces where a characteristic (or ray) is tangent to the surface at some point. There are two principal cases. When a characteristic associated with the incident wave is tangent to the surface we have diffraction; when the tangential characteristic is associated with a reflected wave we have split reflexion, a phenomenon which has no counterpart in classical non-dispersive wave theory. In both these cases the problem of determining the wave field may be reduced to a set of coupled integral equations with two unknown functions. These equations are solved for the simplest topography for each case, and the properties of the wave fields for more general topographies are discussed. For both split reflexion and diffraction, the fluid velocity has an inverse-square-root singularity on the tangential characteristic, and the energy density has a corresponding logarithmic singularity. The diffracted wave field penetrates into the shadow region a distance which is of the order of the incident wavelength. Possibilities for instability and mixing are discussed.


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