scholarly journals Components and Tidal Modulation of the Wave Field in a Semi-Enclosed Shallow Bay

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lukas WinklerPrins ◽  
John Largier ◽  
Ana Vila-Concejo ◽  
Shari Gallop ◽  
Thomas Fellowes ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Field ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Tidal Changes ◽  
Strong Control

The wave field in coastal bays is comprised of waves generated by far-off storms and waves generated locally by winds inside the bay and regionally outside the bay. The resultant wave field varies spatially and temporally and is expected to control morphologic features, such as beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs). However, neither the wave field nor the role of waves in shaping BEBs have been well-studied, limiting the efficacy of coastal protection and restoration projects. Here we present observations of the wave field in Tomales Bay, a 20 km long, narrow, semi-enclosed embayment on the wave-dominated coast of Northern California (USA) with a tidal range of 2.5 m. We deployed pressure sensors in front of several beaches along the linear axis of the bay. Low-frequency waves (4 * 10^-2 * 2.5 * 10*^-1 Hz or 4 - 25 s period) dissipated within 4 km of the mouth, delineating the "outer bay" region, where remotely-generated swell and regionally-generated wind waves can dominate. The "inner bay" spectrum, further landward, is dominated by fetch-limited waves generated within the bay with frequency >= 2.5 < 10*-1 Hz. The energy of both ocean waves and locally-generated wind waves across all sites were modulated by the tide, owing to tidal changes in water depth and currents. Wave energies were typically low at low tide and high at high tide. Thus, in addition to fluctuations in winds and the presence of ocean waves, tides exert a strong control on the wave energy spectra at BEBs in mesotidal regions. In general, it is expected that events that can reshape beaches occur during high wind or swell events that occur at high-tide, when waves can reach the beaches with less attenuation. However, no such events were observed during our study and questions remain as to how rarely such wind-tide concurrences occur across the bay.

scholarly journals Analisis Hidrodinamika di Perairan Lemong, Kabupaten Lampung Barat, Provinsi Lampung Menggunakan Piranti Surface-Water Modeling System

Rekayasa ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 154-163
Author(s):  
Andojo Wurjanto ◽  
Harman Ajiwibowo
Keyword(s):  
Surface Water ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Water Modeling ◽  
Field Surveys ◽  
Surface Water Modeling ◽  
The Indian Ocean ◽  
Current Characteristics

Pantai Lemong merupakan bagian dari Kawasan Pantai Pesisir Barat, Provinsi Lampung yang berpotensi terkena abrasi akibat gelombang dari Samudera Hindia. Rencana pengamanan pantai diperlukan untuk mencegah abrasi. Studi ini dilakukan untuk mengidentifikasi karakteristik pasang surut dan arus di perairan Lemong sebagai parameter untuk perencanaan pengaman pantai. Analisis pasang surut dan arus dilakukan dengan pemodelan numerik pada modul RMA2 dari perangkat lunak Surface-Water Modeling System (SMS). Data yang digunakan pada pemodelan adalah batimetri dan elevasi pasang surut setempat yang didapatkan dari hasil survei. Pemodelan dilakukan dengan metode online nesting dengan empat tingkat resolusi grid dengan resolusi tertinggi pada 1 x 1 km2 saat mendekat ke Perairan Pantai Lemong. Hasil pemodelan divalidasi dengan data lapangan berupa elevasi pasang surut pada dua titik di perairan dangkal dan tiga titik di perairan dalam. Hasil pemodelan menunjukkan bahwa tunggang pasang surut di wilayah Pantai Lemong mencapai 1,4 m dengan tipe mixed – dominan semi diurnal. Hasil pemodelan juga menunjukkan pola arus di Perairan Lemong yang memiliki arah dominan menuju Tenggara saat pasang dan menuju Barat Laut saat surut. Untuk pengembangan model berikutnya, disarankan agar menyertakan data kecepatan arus hasil survei lapangan dalam proses validasi sehingga kesesuaian hasil pemodelan dengan lapangan dapat lebih ditingkatkan.Hydrodynamic Analysis Using Surface-water Modeling System in Lemong Waters, West Lampung Regency, Lampung ProvinceLemong Beach is part of the western coast of Lampung Province which is prone to abrasion caused by the Indian Ocean waves.  This study aims to identify the tidal and current characteristics in Lemong waters as a part of coastal protection planning. The tidal analysis is performed by using the RMA2 module from Surface-Water Modeling System (SMS). Data utilized in the model including bathymetry and local tidal elevations from field surveys. Modeling is conducted using an online nesting method utilizing four stages of grid resolution with 1 x 1 km2 as the highest used around the Lemong Beach Waters. The model is validated with the tidal elevations measured in two points in shallow water and three points in deep water areas. The modeling result shows that the tidal range of Lemong Beach Waters is approximately 1.4 meters as a mixed tide, dominantly in semi-diurnal. The model also shows that the current pattern in Lemong Beach Waters is dominantly moving towards southeast during flows and towards northwest during ebbs. Modeling can be further improved by including current speed from field measurement in the validation process.

scholarly journals Morphodynamic Evolution of a Nourished Beach with Artificial Sandbars: Field Observations and Numerical Modeling

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 245
Author(s):  
Cuiping Kuang ◽  
Xuejian Han ◽  
Jiabo Zhang ◽  
Qingping Zou ◽  
Boling Dong
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Tidal Current ◽  
Model Simulation ◽  
Morphological Changes ◽  
Current Model ◽  
Beach Nourishment ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Field Observations ◽  
One Year

Beach nourishment, a common practice to replenish an eroded beach face with filling sand, has become increasingly popular as an environmentally friendly soft engineering measure to tackle coastal erosion. In this study, three 200 m long offshore submerged sandbars were placed about 200 m from the shore in August 2017 for both coastal protection and beach nourishment at Shanhai Pass, Bohai Sea, northeastern China. A series of 21 beach profiles were collected from August 2017 to July 2018 to monitor the morphological changes of the nourished beach. Field observations of wave and tide levels were conducted for one year and tidal current for 25 h, respectively. To investigate the spatial-temporal responses of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology to the presence of three artificial submerged sandbars, a two-dimensional depth-averaged (2DH) multi-fraction sediment transport and morphological model were coupled with wave and current model and implemented over a spatially varying nested grid. The model results compare well with the field observations of hydrodynamics and morphological changes. The tidal range was around 1.0 m and the waves predominately came from the south-south-east (SSE) direction in the study area. The observed and predicted beach profiles indicate that the sandbars moved onshore and the morphology experienced drastic changes immediately after the introduction of sandbars and reached an equilibrium state in about one year. The morphological change was mainly driven by waves. Under the influences of the prevailing waves and the longshore drift toward the northeast, the coastline on the leeside of the sandbars advanced seaward by 35 m maximally while the rest adjacent coastline retreated severely by 44 m maximally within August 2017–July 2018. The model results demonstrate that the three sandbars have little effect on the tidal current but attenuate the incoming wave significantly. As a result, the medium-coarse sand of sandbars is transported onshore and the background silt is mainly transported offshore and partly in the longshore direction toward the northeast. The 2- and 5-year model simulation results further indicate that shoreline salient may form behind the sandbars and protrude offshore enough to reach the sandbars, similar to the tombolo behind the breakwater.

scholarly journals Estimation of the Noise Source Level of a Commercial Ship Using On-Board Pressure Sensors

2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (3) ◽  
pp. 1243
Author(s):  
Hongseok Jeong ◽  
Jeung-Hoon Lee ◽  
Yong-Hyun Kim ◽  
Hanshin Seol
Keyword(s):  
Noise Source ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Frequency Resolution ◽  
Source Strength ◽  
Recording Time ◽  
Source Level ◽  
The One ◽  
Hydrophone Array ◽  
Good Agreement

The dominant underwater noise source of a ship is known to be propeller cavitation. Recently, attempts have been made to quantify the source strength using on-board pressure sensors near the propeller, as this has advantages over conventional noise measurement. In this study, a beamforming method was used to estimate the source strength of a cavitating propeller. The method was validated against a model-scale measurement in a cavitation tunnel, which showed good agreement between the measured and estimated source levels. The method was also applied to a full-scale measurement, in which the source level was measured using an external hydrophone array. The estimated source level using the hull pressure sensors showed good agreement with the measured one above 400 Hz, which shows potential for noise monitoring using on-board sensors. A parametric study was carried out to check the practicality of the method. From the results, it was shown that a sufficient recording time is required to obtain a consistent level at high frequencies. Changing the frequency resolution had little effect on the result, as long as enough data were provided for the one-third octave band conversion. The number of sensors affected the mid- to low-frequency data.

scholarly journals Hysteresis Characteristic in Hump Region of a Pump-Turbine Model

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Deyou Li ◽  
Hongjie Wang ◽  
Jinxia Chen ◽  
Torbjørn K. Nielsen ◽  
Daqing Qin ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Guide Vane ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Rotational Frequency ◽  
Hysteresis Phenomenon ◽  
Pump Turbine ◽  
Hysteresis Characteristic ◽  
Hydraulic Losses ◽  
Measurement Direction ◽  
Turbine Model

The hump characteristic is one of the major instabilities in pump-turbines. When pump-turbines operate in the hump region, strong noise and serious fluctuations could be observed, which are harmful to the safe and stable operations and even destroy the whole unit as well as water conveyance system. In this paper, a low specific speed (nq = 36.1 min&minus;1) pump-turbine model was experimentally investigated. Firstly, the hump characteristic was obtained under 19 mm guide vane opening. More interestingly, when the hump characteristic was measured in two directions (increasing and decreasing the discharge), the hysteresis characteristic was found during the hump region. The analysis of performance characteristics reveals that the hump instability is resultant of Euler momentum and hydraulic losses, and different Euler momentum and hydraulic losses in the two development processes lead to hysteresis phenomenon. Then, 12 pressure sensors were mounted in the different parts of the pump-turbine model to obtain the time and frequency characteristics. The analysis of fast Fourier transform confirms that the hump characteristic is related to the low-frequency (0.04&ndash;0.15 times rotational frequency) vortices. The occurrence and cease of vortices depend on the operating condition and measurement direction, which contribute to the hysteresis characteristic. Finally, the type of the low-frequency vortices was analyzed through the cross power spectrum.

scholarly journals Sea Oats, Uniola paniculata

EDIS ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 2018 (5) ◽  
Author(s):  
Debbie Miller ◽  
Mack Thetford ◽  
Chris Verlinde ◽  
Gabriel Campbell ◽  
Ashlynn Smith
Keyword(s):  
Wind Waves ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Coastal Areas ◽  
Salt Tolerant ◽  
Uniola Paniculata ◽  
Vertical Growth ◽  
Sea Oats ◽  
In The Wild ◽  
Florida Panhandle ◽  
High Tide Line

Sea oats occur throughout Florida on beach dunes and beaches and on coastal areas west to Texas and north to Maryland. Sea oats are vital dune builders that accumulate sand and prevent erosion due to wind, waves, and large storms. As sand is trapped by the long leaves of sea oats, vertical growth is stimulated, and rooting occurs at the buried nodes. This plant is extremely drought- and salt-tolerant, grows up to the high tide line of beaches, and propagates both vegetatively and by seed in the wild (Shadow 2007).https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/sg186 This publication is derived from information in SGEB-75/SG156, Dune Restoration and Enhancement for the Florida Panhandle, by Debbie Miller, Mack Thetford, Christina Verlinde, Gabriel Campbell, and Ashlynn Smith. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/sg156.

Observation of wave propagation in ice using stereo imaging in the Sea of Okhostk

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alberto Alberello ◽  
Takehiko Nose ◽  
Tsubasa Kodaira ◽  
Keita Nishizawa ◽  
Filippo Nelli ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sea Of Okhotsk ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Arctic Basin ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
The Arctic ◽  
Camera System ◽  
The Sea Of Okhotsk ◽  
Wave Models ◽  
Seasonal Ice Zone

&lt;p&gt;Sea ice seasonally covers the Sea of Okhotsk, a marginal Arctic basin nested between Russia and Japan, but its extent is predicted to decrease by 40% by 2050 leaving larger ice free areas over which waves can form. In the highly dynamical seasonal ice zone, i.e. where waves and ice interact, ice formation and breakup, and wave attenuation mutually affect each other via complex feedback mechanisms. To shed light into these interactions, wave measurements were conducted in the winter seasonal ice zone in the Southern Okhotsk Sea, North of Hokkaido, from onboard the P/V Soya using a stereo camera system. Data show that wave energy penetrates even in high ice concentration (&gt;85%), where contemporary wave models predict complete attenuation of wind waves. Consistently with physical experiments and field observations of waves in the Arctic and Antarctic marginal ice zones, the measurements also show that the ice cover is more effective in attenuating short wave components and, consequently, the dominant wave period in ice is significantly increased compared to corresponding open ocean waves. The present data can inform calibration of wave models in the rapidly evolving seasonal ice zone in the Sea of Okhotsk.&lt;/p&gt;

scholarly journals Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (22) ◽  
pp. 3689
Author(s):  
Iain Fairley ◽  
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo ◽  
Ian Masters ◽  
Harshinie Karunarathna ◽  
Dominic E. Reeve
Keyword(s):  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Coastal Dunes ◽  
Sediment Supply ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Dune System ◽  
Pressure Transducers ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights

Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.

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