scholarly journals Analysis of Longshore Drift Patterns on the Littoral System of Nusa Dua Beach in Bali, Indonesia

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (10) ◽  
pp. 749
Author(s):  
Anthony Harlly Sasono Putro ◽  
Jung Lyul Lee
Keyword(s):  
Erosion Rate ◽  
Satellite Image ◽  
Mass Conservation ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Beach Width ◽  
Longshore Drift ◽  
Reclamation Project ◽  
Tourism Attractions

Bali is one of the most popular tourist areas in Indonesia. With its coastline stretching 633 km, Bali has many beautiful beaches that have become world tourism attractions, thus making tourism the economic engine of Bali. The biggest priority of major tourism sites is maintaining sufficient beach width. However, based on a survey from Balai Wilayah Sungai (BWS) Bali Penida, Bali has suffered from a series of erosions along 215 km of its coastline, including Nusa Dua, in 2015. The location of the study area for this report is a 2.8 km stretch of coastline at Nusa Dua Beach. The erosion problem at Nusa Dua Beach was assessed by analyzing the longshore drift patterns. Simulations are required to assess this erosion problem, combined with the erosion rate and the simulated equilibrium shoreline for each sublittoral cell. To estimate the erosion rate, this study employed profile monitoring data of the beach obtained from 2003 to 2016. This advanced study was based on the mass conservation principle as a governing equation used to predict longshore drifts between sublittoral cells. The satellite image for every sublittoral cell was also used to check the equilibrium condition and estimate the predominant wave direction as the shoreline orientation. Nusa Dua Beach was found to suffer from the change of wave direction and the consequent generation of littoral drift after the reclamation project of Serangan Island located north of the Benoa strait. The correlation between the transportation of longshore sediments and the predominant wave direction indicates the effect of longshore drift in the system. The groin system also created a unique longshore transport pattern in the coastal area. The results obtained in this study can help manage the longshore drift system of Nusa Dua Beach and can be used to predict the beach area subject to erosion and deposition after every beach conservation project. Hence, a strategic plan for managing the shore target lines can be formulated.

Reconstructing the initial shape of volcanic islands to quantify long-term coastal erosion

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rémi Bossis ◽  
Vincent Regard ◽  
Sébastien Carretier
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Erosion ◽  
Erosion Rate ◽  
Developed Countries ◽  
Global Scale ◽  
Radial Symmetry ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Initial Shape ◽  
Vertical Movements ◽  
Volcanic Islands

<p>The global solid flux from continent to ocean is usually reduced to the input of sediments from rivers, and is estimated at approximately 20 Gt/year. Another input of sediments to ocean is coastal erosion, but this flux is difficult to estimate on a global scale and it is often neglected, perhaps wrongly according to regional studies [1,2]. Most studies attempting to quantify coastal erosion have focused on the coasts of developed countries and are limited to the timescale of decades or less [3]. The difficulty in quantifying long-term coastal erosion is that there are still many uncertainties about the factors controlling coastal erosion on this time scale, and it would be necessary to know the initial geometry of coastlines to calculate an eroded volume.</p><p>Volcanic islands, as geomorphological objects, seem to be very good objects of study to remedy these limitations. Indeed, many young volcanic islands are made of only one central edifice with a strong radial symmetry despite its degradation by erosion [4,5]. By knowing the age of an island and by comparing reconstructed shape with current shape, we can calculate a total eroded volume and an integrated average coastal erosion rate on the age of the island. Moreover, due to their geographical, petrological and tectonic diversity, volcanic islands allow to compare the influence of different factors on long-term coastal erosion, such as climate, wave direction and height, rock resistance or vertical movements. Thus, we will be able to prioritize them to propose coastal erosion laws that would applicable to all rocky coasts.</p><p>Here we built on previous works that have used aerial geospatial databases to reconstruct the initial shape of these islands [6,7] but we improve this approach by using offshore topographic data to determine the maximum and initial extension of their coasts. From both onshore and offshore topographies, we determine a long-term mean coastal erosion rate and we quantify precisely its uncertainty. Using the example of Corvo Island, in the Azores archipelago, we show how our approach allows us to obtain first estimates of long-term coastal erosion rate around this island.</p><p> </p><p><strong>References</strong></p><p> </p><p>[1] Landemaine V. (2016). Ph.D. thesis, University of Rouen.</p><p>[2] Rachold V., Grigoriev M.N., Are F.E., Solomon S., Reimnitz E., Kassens H., Antonow M. (2000). International Journal of Earth Sciences, 89(3), 450-460.</p><p>[3] Prémaillon M. (2018). Ph.D. thesis, University of Toulouse.</p><p>[4] Karátson D., Favalli M., Tarquini S., Fornaciai A., Wörner G. (2010). Journal of Volcanology and Geothermal Research, 193, 171-181.</p><p>[5] Favalli M., Karátson D., Yepes J., NannipierI L. (2014). Geomorphology, 221, 139-149.</p><p>[6] Lahitte P., Samper A., Quidelleur X. (2012). Geomorphology, 136, 148-164.</p><p>[7] Karátson D., Yepes J., Favalli M., Rodríguez-Peces M.J., Fornaciai A. (2016). Geomorphology, 253, 123-134.</p>

scholarly journals Coastline changes in relation to longshore sediment transport and human impact, along the shoreline of Kato Achaia (NW Peloponnese, Greece)

2001 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 5 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. POULOS ◽  
G. CHRONIS
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Human Activities ◽  
Dynamic Equilibrium ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Coastal System ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Drift ◽  
Management Plans ◽  
Natural Equilibrium ◽  
Oblique Approach

Coastal configuration depends upon the equilibrium between available sediment budget and prevailing nearshore wave and current conditions. Human activities often disturb this natural equilibrium by altering the sources of beach material and littoral drift pattern. In the coastal zone of NW Peloponnese, an essentially tideless environment, the oblique approach of wind-induced waves implies an overall longshore drift from east to west. On an annual basis, the potential longshore sediment transport rates at the different sections of the study area (Kato Achaia) is estimated to vary between 0.02 10-3 m3/s and 5 103 m3/s and to fluctuate seasonally. The construction of a port and the extraction of aggregates from the R. Peiros have changed significantly the pattern of sediment transport inducing dramatic changes on coastline configuration; thus, the part of the coastline west to the port had retreated as much as 70 m eliminating a touristic beach, while the entrance of the port was silted inhibiting navigation. Coastal engineering measures, such as modification of port-breakwaters and construction of groins have had only minimal contribution in beach recovery. Hence, coastal management plans should consider this dynamic equilibrium and protect the natural coastal system from the arbitrary human activities.

scholarly journals Effects of waves and currents on the siltation problem of Damietta harbour, Nile Delta coast, Egypt

2007 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 33 ◽  
Author(s):  
ABO BAKER.I. ABO ZED
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Nile Delta ◽  
Monitoring Program ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
The North ◽  
Dynamic Factors ◽  
Navigation Channel ◽  
Nile Delta Coast

This study evaluates the effect of prevailing dynamic factors on the sedimentation process in Damietta Harbour along the Nile delta coast of Egypt. The monitoring program spanned the period between 1978 and 1999 and included measurements of waves, currents and bathymetric profiles. The evaluation was based on determination of erosion and accretion rates, current regime, sediment transport, wave characteristics and wave refraction. Results revealed that the predominant wave direction from N-NW sector (86 %) throughout the year is responsible for generation of a longshore eastward current. Less frequent waves from the N-NE sector generate an opposing longshore westward current. The refraction pattern for the prevailing wave direction indicates that the harbour and its navigation channel are located within a divergence of wave orthogonal and in an accretion sediment sink area. The annual net rate of littoral drift on the western side of the harbour is about 1.43 * 105 m3 (accretion), while the annual net rate of littoral drift on the eastern side is about 2.54 * 105 m3 (erosion). Currents fluctuate tremendously in speed and direction, especially during the winter months. Hence, sediment transport takes place in offshore, eastward, and onshore directions. Progressive vector diagrams show that the largest near bottom offshore, onshore and easterly net drift occurs during summer, spring and winter respectively. The onshore sediment transport generated during spring and summer plays an important role in the redistribution of eroded sediments during the winter. The overall study of dynamic factors indicated that the harbour site is characterized by eastern, western, offshore and onshore sediment movements. Therefore, the north-south orientation of the navigation channel, with its depth greater than the surrounding area, interrupts sediment drift from different directions and reduces the current speed. Consequently, the sediments sink within the navigation channel from different directions. The sources of sediments contributing to the siltation process of the harbour and its navigation channels are mainly derived from the Rosetta promontory, Burullus beaches, Damietta promontory and from offshore and the dumping area.

scholarly journals Nearshore Waves and Littoral Drift Along a Micro-Tidal Wave-Dominated Coast Having Comparable Wind-Sea and Swell Energy

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Jesbin George ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
R. Gowthaman ◽  
Jai Singh
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Model Data ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Relative Contribution ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Wind Sea ◽  
Small Change

The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider buoy-measured data at 15 m water depth is utilized as the input wave parameters along with the reanalysis model data, and the numerical wave model Delft-3D is used for estimating the nearshore wave parameters. The relative contribution of wind-seas and swells on LST rates are specifically examined. The clear prevalence of west-southwest waves implies the prevalence of south to north longshore sediment transport with net transport varying from 0.19–0.37 × 105 m3/yr. LST is strongly dependent on the breaker angle and a small change in the wave direction substantially alters the LST, and hence reanalysis/model data with coarse resolutions produce large errors (~38%) in the LST estimate. The annual gross LST rate based on integral wave parameters is only 58% considering the wind-seas and swells separately, since the wind-sea energy is comparable to swell energy, and the direction of these two systems differs significantly.

MORPHODYNAMICS OF THE BAKALSKAYA SPIT OF THE BLACK SEA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Ludmila Kharitonova ◽  
Ludmila Kharitonova ◽  
Dmitrii Alekseev ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Black Sea ◽  
West Coast ◽  
Main Part ◽  
Distal Part ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Satellite Image ◽  
The Black Sea ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Erosion And Deposition ◽  
North West

Studies of shape dynamics of the Bakalskaya Spit based on observation and numerical simulation are carries out. The Bakalskaya Spit is a dynamically active sand formation on the north-west coast of the Crimea Peninsula. Field observations and satellite image analyses showed that the erosion of spit west coast, eastward displacement of spit distal part and separation of distal part from the spit main part are the most significant processes. After the autumn storms in 2010 the isthmus between the distal part of spit and its main part was eroded and had not recovered till now. So the distal part of the Bakalskaya Spit turned into island. Dynamic of sediments depends on wind wave parameters and sea level oscillations. Effect of changing of wind wave direction and storm surge height on erosion and deposition processes in the Bakalskaya Spit region of the Black Sea is studied by using of XBeach numerical model. Dependencies of location and space dimension of erosion and deposition areas of sediments on characteristics of waves and surges are obtained. It is found that the most intensive erosion of spit isthmus occurs in case of wave running from the west in comparison of cases of wave running from the south-west and north-west if there are no surges. Presence of surges may results in increasing or decreasing of erosion process intensiveness depending on wave direction.

Erosion Behavior of Blooie Line in Gas Drilling

2016 ◽  
Vol 850 ◽  
pp. 394-402
Author(s):  
Dong Li Lv ◽  
Tao Zhang
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Erosion Rate ◽  
Influence Factors ◽  
Mass Conservation ◽  
Momentum Conservation ◽  
Bend Pipe ◽  
Gas Drilling ◽  
Steel Material ◽  
Erosion Models ◽  
Pipeline Wall

In this paper, based on mass conservation, momentum conservation and turbulence k-ε model, the incompressible flow fluid dynamics model in sand discharging process is established. Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) technology is adopted to solve the flow field in the bend pipe and the erosion laws of the pipeline wall are predicted coupling material erosion model. Four erosion models of carbon steel material are adopted respectively to calculate the erosion laws and comparison is conducted. Further parametric study is carried out and different influence factors (such as pipeline structure, flow of fluid, et al.) to the erosion laws of the blooie line are discussed. The results indicate that the distribution characteristics of the erosion damage and the law of the erosion rate are changed with impact parameters in the bend pipe. There are obvious distribution differences of the erosion rate within a certain angle range obtained from different erosion models.

scholarly journals Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast

2007 ◽  
Vol 55 (2) ◽  
pp. 109-120 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eduardo Siegle ◽  
Nils Edvin Asp
Keyword(s):  
Wave Climate ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Brazilian Coast ◽  
Santa Catarina ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
The North ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Longshore Drift ◽  
Northern Portion ◽  
Transport Patterns

Based on the wave climate for the southern Brazilian coast, wave refraction has been modelled in order to obtain the refracted wave heights and directions along the southern Santa Catarina coast, providing the needed information for potential longshore drift estimates. According to its coastline orientation, different sectors of the coast present varying longshore drift patterns. Estimates have been made for the yearly-averaged wave climate as well as for each season, showing thereby the longshore drift patterns along the year. Based on the results of the potential longshore drift intensities and directions and on the shoreline outline in plan, it has been possible to identify a strongly drift-dominated coast in the south turning to a mixed drift and swash dominated coast towards the north of the studied area. Contrasting patterns of longshore drift between the southern and northern portion of the coastline indicate a sediment surplus in the central portion, making sediment available for cross-shore transport processes, either on- or offshore. Considering long-term aspects, the longshore drift patterns are in agreement with the coastal infilling process which has mainly been driven by persistent surplus from littoral sediment drift.

scholarly journals A GROSS LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE FORMULA

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Cyril J. Galvin
Keyword(s):  
Current Velocity ◽  
Empirical Relation ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Transport Rate ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Physical Explanation ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Term Field

Gross longshore transport rates for 11 long-term field measurements are predicted reasonably well by the empirical relation, Q=2H2, where Q is longshore transport rate in 100,000 yd3/yr, and H is a mean breaker height in feet. A physical explanation of this empirical relation assumes: (1) most littoral drift is transported in suspension; (2) longshore current velocity is predicted by V-gmTsin28j,; (3) the empirical relation is an equation for conservation of suspended sediment in the longshore current.

scholarly journals Decadal Shoreline Stability in Eastbourne,  Wellington Harbour

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
David Olson
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Aerial Photograph ◽  
Sediment Supply ◽  
Grain Size Analysis ◽  
Size Analysis ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Beach Width

<p>Mixed Sand and Gravel (MSG) Beach research in recent decades has overwhelmingly focussed on open-oceanic environments, however, those found in fetch limited settings remain poorly understood. This thesis has examined spatial and temporal morphological change through such a system in Eastbourne, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand. This site has only recently prograded following several decades of erosion. This accretion has been the result of a northward migrating gravel front, which is introducing gravel sized sediment into the previously sandy system resulting in significant changes in beach morphology and volume. The aim of this study is to quantify these spatial and temporal changes and to assess shoreline stability on a decadal timescale. Additionally it aims to ascertain whether the current progradation is a long term change to the system or the result of a short term sediment increase. This assessment has been conducted in the form of topographic surveying, grain size and aerial photograph analysis. The topographic surveying and grain size analysis provides an accurate description of beach morphology. This is compared to the established MSG beach morphology models for the open coast, but operating on a smaller scale because of the lower energy fetch-limited environment of the study area. Aerial photograph analysis is used to show the longer term changes in beach width and the northern migration of the gravel fraction of the sediment supply regime. The spatial analysis results show that the beach morphology is highly variable. In the embayments that are more exposed to oceanic swell waves beach profiles are broad and steep, and in the beaches in the northern sections of the coastline which are more sheltered from oceanic swell waves, profiles are flat and narrow. The temporal results show that the coastal accretion observed through the study area has been initially rapid, followed by sustained increased beach width. These results suggest that the morphological variation on this coastline is part of a long term adjustment to a change in sediment supply, initiated by tectonic uplift and subsequently driven by longshore sediment transport. The observed mechanism of longshore transport has been suggested to be a function of sediment properties, relative wave energy and bathymetry/topography. The findings of this research are used to develop a conceptual model of shoreline evolution for the study area in response to changes that have occurred over the last 154 years.</p>

scholarly journals A COMPREHENSIVE SEDIMENT BUDGET FOR THE MISSISSIPPI BARRIER ISLANDS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 81 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dirk-Jan Walstra ◽  
J. De Vroeg ◽  
J. Van Thiel de Vries ◽  
C. Swinkels ◽  
A. Luijendijk ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Transport Model ◽  
Barrier Islands ◽  
Sediment Budget ◽  
Littoral Drift ◽  
Island Restoration ◽  
Mississippi Sound ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Sound Side ◽  
Order Of Magnitude

In order to conceive any realistic plan for post-Katrina island restoration, it is necessary to understand the physical processes that move sand along the littoral drift zone off the coast of Mississippi. This littoral zone influences the character of the Mississippi barrier islands as they exist in an ever changing cycle. To help in this understanding, a sediment transport model was conducted to establish a current sediment budget for the islands. This study evaluated the existing regional sediment transport magnitudes and directions for the Mississippi and Alabama barrier islands fronting Mississippi Sound including daily conditions and hurricanes. A method was developed to incorporate all relevant hurricanes from 1917 to 2010 in the analysis. For the long term average net longshore transport along the southern shorelines of the barriers (i.e. exposed to the Gulf of Mexico), the contribution of year-averaged conditions and hurricanes are of similar order of magnitude, although the mean annual percentage occurrence of hurricanes is no more than about 3%. Along the northern shores (Mississippi Sound side) the transport is considerably smaller and the contributions of cold fronts and hurricanes to the sediment transports are more or less equal. For the year-averaged conditions (excluding hurricanes) a westward directed net transport is found. The net effect of the historic hurricanes is also westward in direction. However, for individual hurricanes (e.g. Camille and Katrina) the net transport along Ship Island can be directed eastward due to the dominance of ebb flows after the eye of the hurricane had passed.

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