scholarly journals Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1161
Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Kévin Martins
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Width Ratio ◽  
Coastal Morphology ◽  
M Wave ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Spatial Coverage ◽  
Wave Event ◽  
Wave Conditions

A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND MODELLING OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS AT A HIGH-ENERGY GEOLOGICALLY-CONSTRAINED BEACH

2020 ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Vincent Marieu
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Forcing ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Nearshore Currents ◽  
Set Up

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE

scholarly journals Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (7) ◽  
pp. 534 ◽  
Author(s):  
Damien Sous ◽  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Arthur Mouragues ◽  
Philippe Bonneton
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Winter Period ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Driving Mechanism ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Very Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Incidence

Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing in the lee of the obstacle. The driving mechanism therefore essentially depends on the angle of wave incidence with respect to the natural or artificial obstruction. We analyze 42 days of velocity profile measurements against a natural headland at the high-energy meso-macrotidal beach of Anglet, southwest France. Measurements were collected in 6.5–10.5-m depth as tide elevation varied, during the autumn–winter period with offshore significant wave height and period ranging 0.9–6 m and 8–16 s, respectively, and the angle of wave incidence ranging from −20 ∘ to 20 ∘ . Here we analyze deflection rip configurations, corresponding to approximately 24 days of measurements, for which the current meter was alternatively located in the rip neck, rip head or away from the rip as wave and tide conditions changed. Deflection rips were associated with large offshore-directed velocities (up to 0.6 m/s depth-averaged velocities) and tide modulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. The vertical profile of deflection rips was found to vary from depth-uniform in the rip neck to strongly depth-varying further offshore in the rip head with maximum velocities near the surface. Very low frequency motions of the rip were dramatic, ranging 10–60 min with a dominant peak period of approximately 40 min, i.e., with longer periods than commonly reported. The strong offshore-directed velocities measured well beyond the surf zone edge provide new insight into deflection rips as a dominant mechanism for water and sediment exchanges between embayed (or structurally-controlled) beaches and the inner-shelf and/or the adjacent embayments.

Application of remote sensing technology to the relation of submarine pipelines and coastal morphology

1995 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
pp. 77-83
Author(s):  
Y. Yüksel ◽  
D. Maktav ◽  
S. Kapdasli
Keyword(s):  
Remote Sensing ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Hydrodynamic Forces ◽  
Construction Site ◽  
Coastal Morphology ◽  
Remote Sensing Technology ◽  
Sensing Technology ◽  
Sea Bed

Submarine pipelines must be designed to resist wave and current induced hydrodynamic forces especially in and near the surf zone. They are buried as protection against forces in the surf zone, however this procedure is not always feasible particularly on a movable sea bed. For this reason the characteristics of the sediment transport on the construction site of beaches should be investigated. In this investigation, the application of the remote sensing method is introduced in order to determine and observe the coastal morphology, so that submarine pipelines may be protected against undesirable seabed movement.

scholarly journals Non-linear Terahertz driving of plasma waves in layered cuprates

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Gabriele ◽  
Mattia Udina ◽  
Lara Benfatto
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Plasma Waves ◽  
Meissner Effect ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Plasma Mode ◽  
Light Pulses ◽  
High Frequency Plasma ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Out Of Plane ◽  
Layered Cuprates

AbstractThe hallmark of superconductivity is the rigidity of the quantum-mechanical phase of electrons, responsible for superfluid behavior and Meissner effect. The strength of the phase stiffness is set by the Josephson coupling, which is strongly anisotropic in layered cuprates. So far, THz light pulses have been used to achieve non-linear control of the out-of-plane Josephson plasma mode, whose frequency lies in the THz range. However, the high-energy in-plane plasma mode has been considered insensitive to THz pumping. Here, we show that THz driving of both low-frequency and high-frequency plasma waves is possible via a general two-plasmon excitation mechanism. The anisotropy of the Josephson couplings leads to markedly different thermal effects for the out-of-plane and in-plane response, linking in both cases the emergence of non-linear photonics across Tc to the superfluid stiffness. Our results show that THz light pulses represent a preferential knob to selectively drive phase excitations in unconventional superconductors.

scholarly journals Electromagnetic power of lightning superbolts from Earth to space

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
J.-F. Ripoll ◽  
T. Farges ◽  
D. M. Malaspina ◽  
G. S. Cunningham ◽  
E. H. Lay ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Optical Emission ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Very Low Frequency ◽  
Electromagnetic Power ◽  
Power Spectral ◽  
High Energy Tail ◽  
Van Allen Probes ◽  
Long Time ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

AbstractLightning superbolts are the most powerful and rare lightning events with intense optical emission, first identified from space. Superbolt events occurred in 2010-2018 could be localized by extracting the high energy tail of the lightning stroke signals measured by the very low frequency ground stations of the World-Wide Lightning Location Network. Here, we report electromagnetic observations of superbolts from space using Van Allen Probes satellite measurements, and ground measurements, and with two events measured both from ground and space. From burst-triggered measurements, we compute electric and magnetic power spectral density for very low frequency waves driven by superbolts, both on Earth and transmitted into space, demonstrating that superbolts transmit 10-1000 times more powerful very low frequency waves into space than typical strokes and revealing that their extreme nature is observed in space. We find several properties of superbolts that notably differ from most lightning flashes; a more symmetric first ground-wave peak due to a longer rise time, larger peak current, weaker decay of electromagnetic power density in space with distance, and a power mostly confined in the very low frequency range. Their signal is absent in space during day times and is received with a long-time delay on the Van Allen Probes. These results have implications for our understanding of lightning and superbolts, for ionosphere-magnetosphere wave transmission, wave propagation in space, and remote sensing of extreme events.

scholarly journals Low-Roughness-Surface Additive Manufacturing of Metal-Wire Feeding with Small Power

Materials ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 14 (15) ◽  
pp. 4265
Author(s):  
Bobo Li ◽  
Bowen Wang ◽  
Greg Zhu ◽  
Lijuan Zhang ◽  
Bingheng Lu
Keyword(s):  
Additive Manufacturing ◽  
High Surface ◽  
Deposition Process ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Width Ratio ◽  
Thin Wall ◽  
Small Power ◽  
High Surface Quality ◽  
Wall Structures ◽  
Wire Feed

Aiming at handling the contradiction between power constraint of on-orbit manufacturing and the high energy input requirement of metal additive manufacturing (AM), this paper presents an AM process based on small-power metal fine wire feed, which produces thin-wall structures of height-to-width ratio up to 40 with core-forming power only about 50 W. In this process, thermal resistance was introduced to optimize the gradient parameters which greatly reduces the step effect of the typical AM process, succeeded in the surface roughness (Ra) less than 5 μm, comparable with that obtained by selective laser melting (SLM). After a 10 min electrolyte-plasma process, the roughness of the fabricated specimen was further reduced to 0.4 μm, without defects such as pores and cracks observed. The ultimate tensile strength of the specimens measured about 500 MPa, the relative density was 99.37, and the Vickers hardness was homogeneous. The results show that the proposed laser-Joule wire feed-direct metal deposition process (LJWF-DMD) is a very attractive solution for metal AM of high surface quality parts, particularly suitable for rapid prototyping for on-orbit AM in space.

scholarly journals Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (10) ◽  
pp. 2183-2205 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
Rob Brander ◽  
Jak McCarroll ◽  
Arthur Robinet ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
High Tide ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Flow Activity ◽  
Incident Waves

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso–macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfing-related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs >1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.

scholarly journals The challenging SED of AP Librae

2011 ◽  
Vol 7 (S284) ◽  
pp. 411-413 ◽  
Author(s):  
David Sanchez ◽  
Berrie Giebels ◽  
Pascal Fortin ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Spectral Energy Distribution ◽  
Broad Band ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Theoretical Models ◽  
Intermediate Frequency ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Spectral Energy ◽  
Broad Band Emission ◽  
Band Emission ◽  
Bl Lac

AbstractMatching the broad-band emission of active galaxies with the predictions of theoretical models can be used to derive constraints on the properties of the emitting region and to probe the physical processes involved. AP Librae is the third low frequency peaked BL Lac (LBL) detected at very high energy (VHE, E>100GeV) by an Atmospheric Cherenkov Telescope; most VHE BL Lacs (34 out of 39) belong to the high-frequency and intermediate-frequency BL Lac classes (HBL and IBL). LBL objects tend to have a higher luminosity with lower peak frequencies than HBLs or IBLs. The characterization of their time-averaged spectral energy distribution is challenging for emission models such as synchrotron self-Compton (SSC) models.

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