scholarly journals Reduction of maximum tsunami run-up due to the interaction with beachfront development – application of single sinusoidal waves

2013 ◽  
Vol 13 (11) ◽  
pp. 2991-3010 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. Goseberg
Keyword(s):  
Long Waves ◽  
Practical Application ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Concrete Blocks ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Tsunami Run Up ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Development Application ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

Abstract. Experiments are presented that focus on the interaction of single sinusoidal long waves with beachfront development on the shore. A pump-driven methodology is applied to generate the tested waves in the wave flume. The approaching waves firstly propagate over a horizontal bottom, then climbing up a 1 in 40 beach slope. The experiments reported here are confined to the surf similarity parameter of the waves ranging from ξ =7.69–10.49. The maximum run-up of the tested waves under undisturbed conditions agrees well with analytical results of of Madsen and Schäffer (2010). Beachfront development is modelled with cubic concrete blocks (macro-roughness (MR) elements). The obstruction ratio, the number of element rows parallel to the shoreline as well as the way of arranging the MR elements influences the overall reduction of maximum run-up compared to the undisturbed run-up conditions. Staggered and aligned as well as rotated and non-rotated arrangements are tested. As a result, nomograms are finally compiled to depict the maximum run-up reduction over the surf similarity parameter. In addition, some guidance on practical application of the results to an example location is given.

scholarly journals Reduction of maximum tsunami run-up due to the interaction with beachfront development – application of single sinusoidal waves

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 1119-1171 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. Goseberg
Keyword(s):  
Long Waves ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Beach Slope ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Concrete Blocks ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Tsunami Run Up ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Development Application ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

Abstract. Experiments are presented that focus on the interaction of single sinusoidal long waves with beachfront development on the shore. A pump-driven methodology is applied to generate the tested waves in the wave flume. The approaching waves firstly propagate over a horizontal bottom, then climbing up a 1 in 40 beach slope. The experiments reported here are confined to the surf similarity parameter of the waves ranging from ξ = 7.69 − 10.49. The maximum run-up of the tested waves under undisturbed conditions agrees well with analytical results of Madsen and Schäffer (2010). Beachfront development is modelled with cubic concrete blocks (macro-roughness (MR) elements). The obstruction ratio, the number of element rows parallel to the shoreline as well as the way of arranging the MR elements influences the overall reduction of maximum run-up compared to the undisturbed run-up conditions. Staggered and aligned as well as rotated and non-rotated arrangements are tested. As a result, nomograms are finally compiled to depict the maximum run-up reduction over the surf similarity parameter.

scholarly journals RUN-UP OF TSUNAMIS BY LINEAR AND NONLINEAR THEORIES

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 42 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chiaki Goto ◽  
Nobuo Shuto
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Results ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Practical Application ◽  
Linear And Nonlinear ◽  
Run Up

Linear and nonlinear sets of equations of long waves in the Lagrangian description are solved numerically to obtain run-up heights. Numerical results are compared -with theoretical ones in case of simple topographies and the agreement is quite satisfactory. As a practical application, the computation is carried out for the Okkirai Bay in Japan. The computed run-up neighs agree fairly well with the recorded ones.

scholarly journals Numerical Modeling of Failure Mechanisms in Articulated Concrete Block Mattress as a Sustainable Coastal Protection Structure

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (22) ◽  
pp. 12794
Author(s):  
Ramin Safari Ghaleh ◽  
Omid Aminoroayaie Yamini ◽  
S. Hooman Mousavi ◽  
Mohammad Reza Kavianpour
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Modeling ◽  
Concrete Block ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Physical Models ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Environmental Friendliness ◽  
Shoreline Protection ◽  
Concrete Blocks ◽  
Run Up

Shoreline protection remains a global priority. Typically, coastal areas are protected by armoring them with hard, non-native, and non-sustainable materials such as limestone. To increase the execution speed and environmental friendliness and reduce the weight of individual concrete blocks and reinforcements, concrete blocks can be designed and implemented as Articulated Concrete Block Mattress (ACB Mat). These structures act as an integral part and can be used as a revetment on the breakwater body or shoreline protection. Physical models are one of the key tools for estimating and investigating the phenomena in coastal structures. However, it does have limitations and obstacles; consequently, in this study, numerical modeling of waves on these structures has been utilized to simulate wave propagation on the breakwater, via Flow-3D software with VOF. Among the factors affecting the instability of ACB Mat are breaking waves as well as the shaking of the revetment and the displacement of the armor due to the uplift force resulting from the failure. The most important purpose of the present study is to investigate the ability of numerical Flow-3D model to simulate hydrodynamic parameters in coastal revetment. The run-up values of the waves on the concrete block armoring will multiply with increasing break parameter (0.5<ξm−1,0<3.3) due to the existence of plunging waves until it (Ru2%Hm0=1.6) reaches maximum. Hence, by increasing the breaker parameter and changing breaking waves (ξm−1,0>3.3) type to collapsing waves/surging waves, the trend of relative wave run-up changes on concrete block revetment increases gradually. By increasing the breaker index (surf similarity parameter) in the case of plunging waves (0.5<ξm−1,0<3.3), the low values on the relative wave run-down are greatly reduced. Additionally, in the transition region, the change of breaking waves from plunging waves to collapsing/surging (3.3<ξm−1,0<5.0), the relative run-down process occurs with less intensity.

scholarly journals A MODEL STUDY OF THE DISTRIBUTION OF RUN-UP OF WIND-GENERATED WAVES ON SLOPING SEA WALLS

1968 ◽  
Vol 1 (11) ◽  
pp. 56 ◽  
Author(s):  
Norman B. Webber ◽  
Geoffrey N. Bullock
Keyword(s):  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Model Study ◽  
Wind Velocities ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Instantaneous Values ◽  
Statistical Relationships ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
The Waves

The behaviour of wind-generated waves on impermeable slopes of 1:2, 1:4 and 1:10 was investigated in a 40 ft long laboratory wind-wave flume. Apparatus for measuring instantaneous values of the run-up was devised. Wind velocities of up to 44 ft/sec were applied, producing wave heights of up to 2.5 in. Distributions were obtained for the wave and run-up characteristics. The empirical results were compared with theoretical statistical relationships. A comparison was made with the run-ups in paddle-wave experiments. The relationship between the waves and their run-ups was further investigated by a comparison of simultaneous recordings, using the methods of spectral analysis.

scholarly journals CNOIDAL WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Frank D. Masch
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Power Transmission ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Practical Application ◽  
Cnoidal Waves ◽  
Water Power ◽  
The Waves

The propagation of long waves of finite amplitude in water with depth to wavelength ratios less than about one-tenth and greater than about one-fiftieth can be described by cnoidal wave theory. To date little use has been made of the theory because of the difficulties involved in practical application. This paper presents the theory necessary for predicting the transforming characteristics of long waves based on cnoidal theory. Basically the method involves calculating the power transmission for a wave train m shallow water from cnoidal theory and equating this to the deep water power transmission assuming no reflections or loss of energy as the waves move into shoaling water. The equations for wave power have been programmed for the range of cnoidal waves, and the results are plotted in non-dimensional form.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

Kajian Model Fisik Pengaruh Freeboard dan Susunan Buis Beton Sebagai Pemecah Gelombang Tenggelam Ambang Rendah (Pegar) Dalam Mereduksi Gelombang

2017 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 34
Author(s):  
Zulkarnain Zulkarnain ◽  
Nadjadji Anwar
Keyword(s):  
Low Cost ◽  
Relative Depth ◽  
Submerged Breakwater ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Concrete Cylinder ◽  
Engineering Department ◽  
Sea Area ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Transmission Test ◽  
Better Than

The Research Center and Development of Water (Puslitbang) is currently developing the Submerged Breakwater in shallow sea area (PEGAR). The author is interested to examine the material that easily obtained in the field of RCP concrete cylinder. The observation is how it to be ability in function as submerged breakwater an go green and low cost. The physical model of wave transmission test is how the response to the structure in ability to damping of wave as the breakwater function. In this research breakwater used is submerged breakwater type by using concrete cylinder (buis beton). The purpose from this research is to know how the response of breakwater structure to the waves through it, with some variation of the structure by creating a structure with three variations of the arrangement and freeboard that is the relative depth with the crest width is constant. The wave generated test in this study is using regular waves in wave flume at FTSP Civil Engineering Department of Institute Technology Ten November. From the analysis of the effect of the installation of submerged breakwater by using concrete cylinder to the wave damping value, it can be concluded that the factors that are very influential is the freeboard and the composition of concrete cylinder. Scenario A (rigid vertical massive) is capable of producing the smallest value of kt is 0.33. As for scenario B (rigid horyzontal massive) with a damping value of 0.5, while the scenario C (rigid permeable) is only able to produce kt value of 0.71. Scenario A is better than scenario B and C Because the position of arrangement of A is very good used to damp wave in small or big freeboard conditions.

scholarly journals Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows

Water Waves ◽  
2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maria Bjørnestad ◽  
Henrik Kalisch ◽  
Malek Abid ◽  
Christian Kharif ◽  
Mats Brun
Keyword(s):  
Turbulent Flows ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vries Equation ◽  
Kdv Equation ◽  
Flow Depth ◽  
Present Contribution ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
The Kdv Equation ◽  
The Waves

AbstractIt is well known that weak hydraulic jumps and bores develop a growing number of surface oscillations behind the bore front. Defining the bore strength as the ratio of the head of the undular bore to the undisturbed depth, it was found in the classic work of Favre (Ondes de Translation. Dunod, Paris, 1935) that the regime of laminar flow is demarcated from the regime of partially turbulent flows by a sharply defined value 0.281. This critical bore strength is characterized by the eventual breaking of the leading wave of the bore front. Compared to the flow depth in the wave flume, the waves developing behind the bore front are long and of small amplitude, and it can be shown that the situation can be described approximately using the well known Kortweg–de Vries equation. In the present contribution, it is shown that if a shear flow is incorporated into the KdV equation, and a kinematic breaking criterion is used to test whether the waves are spilling, then the critical bore strength can be found theoretically within an error of less than ten percent.

scholarly journals Shoreline Changes along Northern Ibaraki Coast after the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (7) ◽  
pp. 1399
Author(s):  
Quang Nguyen Hao ◽  
Satoshi Takewaka
Keyword(s):  
Near Infrared ◽  
Thermal Emission ◽  
Sandy Beaches ◽  
Great East Japan Earthquake ◽  
Shoreline Changes ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Tsunami Run Up ◽  
Sentinel 2 ◽  
Infrared Radiometer

In this study, we analyze the influence of the Great East Japan Earthquake, which occurred on 11 March 2011, on the shoreline of the northern Ibaraki Coast. After the earthquake, the area experienced subsidence of approximately 0.4 m. Shoreline changes at eight sandy beaches along the coast are estimated using various satellite images, including the ASTER (Advanced Spaceborne Thermal Emission and Reflection Radiometer), ALOS AVNIR-2 (Advanced Land Observing Satellite, Advanced Visible and Near-infrared Radiometer type 2), and Sentinel-2 (a multispectral sensor). Before the earthquake (for the period March 2001–January 2011), even though fluctuations in the shoreline position were observed, shorelines were quite stable, with the averaged change rates in the range of ±1.5 m/year. The shoreline suddenly retreated due to the earthquake by 20–40 m. Generally, the amount of retreat shows a strong correlation with the amount of land subsidence caused by the earthquake, and a moderate correlation with tsunami run-up height. The ground started to uplift gradually after the sudden subsidence, and shoreline positions advanced accordingly. The recovery speed of the beaches varied from +2.6 m/year to +6.6 m/year, depending on the beach conditions.

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