scholarly journals TRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES IN SHOALING WATER

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 23
Author(s):  
Tetsuo Sakai ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Balance ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Nonlinear Interaction ◽  
Peak Power ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Elementary Component ◽  
Total Energy Balance ◽  
Component Wave

In the numerical method of prediction of wind waves in deep water, Hasselmann's nonlinear interaction theory is applied. This method assumes the energy balance of individual component waves. However, the total energy balance must exist in the transformation of irregular waves in shoaling water. In this investigation, experiments were carried out on the transformations in shoaling water of composite waves having two components and random waves having one or two main peaks. It was found that the elementary component wave height of the composite waves and the elementary peak power of the random waves decrease with decrease in the water depth. This reason can be explained qualitatively by the theory of the elementary component wave height change of finite amplitude waves in shoaling water. The secondary component wave height of the composite waves and the secondary peak power of the random waves increase with decrease in the water depth. This can be explained qualitatively by Hamada's theory of nonlinear interaction in uniform depth.

scholarly journals RANDOM BREAKING WAVES HORIZONTAL SEABED

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 68 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hans Peter Riedel ◽  
Anthony Paul Byrne
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Depth Ratio ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Monochromatic Waves

According to wave theories the depth limited wave height over a horizontal seabed has a wave height to water depth ratio (H/d) of about 0.8. Flume experiments with monochromatic waves over a horizontal seabed have failed to produce H/d ratios greater than 0.55. However designers still tend to use H/d 0.8 for their design waves. Experiments have been carried out using random wave trains in the flume over a horizontal seabed. These experiments have shown that the limiting H/d ratio of 0.55 applies equally well to random waves.

Physical and Numerical Investigations on Wave Run-Up and Dissipation under Breakwater with Fence Revetment

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1355
Author(s):  
Enjin Zhao ◽  
Lin Mu ◽  
Zhaoyang Hu ◽  
Xinqiang Wang ◽  
Junkai Sun ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Structure Stability ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Tide Level ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Impact

Revetment elements and protective facilities on a breakwater can effectively weaken the impact of waves. In order to resist storm surges, there is a plan to build a breakwater on the northern shore of Meizhou Bay in Putian City, China. To better design it, considering different environmental conditions, physical and numerical experiments were carried out to accurately study the effects of the breakwater and its auxiliary structures on wave propagation. In the experiments, the influence of the wave type, initial water depth, and the structure of the fence plate are considered. The wave run-up and dissipation, the wave overtopping volume, and the structure stability are analyzed. The results indicate that the breakwater can effectively resist the wave impact, reduce the wave run-up and overtopping, and protect the rear buildings. In addition, under the same still water depth and significant wave height, the amount of overtopped water under regular waves is larger than that under irregular waves. With the increase of the still water depth and significant wave height, the overtopped water increases, which means that when the storm surge occurs, damage on the breakwater under the high tide level is greater than that under the low tide level. Besides, the fence plate can effectively dissipate energy and reduce the overtopping volume by generating eddy current in the cavity. Considering the stability and the energy dissipation capacity of the fence plate, it is suggested that a gap ratio of 50% is reasonable.

scholarly journals THE MEASURED PROPERTIES OF IRREGULAR WAVE BREAKING AND WAVE HEIGHT CHANGE AFTER BREAKING ON THE SLOPE

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Seyama ◽  
Akira Kimura
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Zero Crossing ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Height Change ◽  
Cross Waves

Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross waves is about 30% smaller than that for periodic waves on average despite the slopes. Wave height decay after breaking also differs from that for periodic waves and can be classified into three regions, i.e. shoaling, plunging and bore regions. Experimental equations for the breaking condition and wave height change after breaking are proposed in the study. A new definition of water depth for the zero-crossing wave analysis which can reduce the fluctuation in the plotted data is also proposed.

Bulk drag coefficient of a subaquatic vegetation subjected to irregular waves: Influence of Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers

2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal
Keyword(s):  
Drag Coefficient ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Empirical Relationship ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Geometrical Parameters ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Seagrass Meadows ◽  
Artificial Vegetation

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.

scholarly journals Time Scale for Scour Beneath Pipelines Due to Long-Crested and Short-Crested Nonlinear Random Waves Plus Current

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 114
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug ◽  
Muk Chen Ong
Keyword(s):  
Time Scale ◽  
Current Flow ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Flow Conditions ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Random Waves ◽  
2D And 3D

This article derives the time scale of pipeline scour caused by 2D (long-crested) and 3D (short-crested) nonlinear irregular waves and current for wave-dominant flow. The motivation is to provide a simple engineering tool suitable to use when assessing the time scale of equilibrium pipeline scour for these flow conditions. The method assumes the random wave process to be stationary and narrow banded adopting a distribution of the wave crest height representing 2D and 3D nonlinear irregular waves and a time scale formula for regular waves plus current. The presented results cover a range of random waves plus current flow conditions for which the method is valid. Results for typical field conditions are also presented. A possible application of the outcome of this study is that, e.g., consulting engineers can use it as part of assessing the on-bottom stability of seabed pipelines.

scholarly journals Representative Transmission Coefficient for Evaluating the Wave Attenuation Performance of 3D Floating Breakwaters in Regular and Irregular Waves

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (4) ◽  
pp. 388
Author(s):  
Huu Phu Nguyen ◽  
Jeong Cheol Park ◽  
Mengmeng Han ◽  
Chien Ming Wang ◽  
Nagi Abdussamie ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Transmission Coefficient ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Transmitted Wave ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Hydrodynamic Analysis ◽  
Evaluation Approach ◽  
Floating Breakwater ◽  
Floating Breakwaters ◽  
Evaluation Approaches

Wave attenuation performance is the prime consideration when designing any floating breakwater. For a 2D hydrodynamic analysis of a floating breakwater, the wave attenuation performance is evaluated by the transmission coefficient, which is defined as the ratio between the transmitted wave height and the incident wave height. For a 3D breakwater, some researchers still adopted this evaluation approach with the transmitted wave height taken at a surface point, while others used the mean transmission coefficient within a surface area. This paper aims to first examine the rationality of these two evaluation approaches via verified numerical simulations of 3D heave-only floating breakwaters in regular and irregular waves. A new index—a representative transmission coefficient—is then presented for one to easily compare the wave attenuation performances of different 3D floating breakwater designs.

Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios

1992 ◽  
Vol 17 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 49-70 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.C. Nelson ◽  
J. Gonsalves
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals LABORATORY SIMULATIONS OF WAVE ATTENUATION BY AN EMERGENT VEGETATION OF ARTIFICIAL PHRAGMITES AUSTRALIS: AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF AN OPEN-CHANNEL WAVE FLUME

2015 ◽  
Vol 23 (4) ◽  
pp. 251-266 ◽  
Author(s):  
Li YIPING ◽  
Desmond Ofosu ANIM ◽  
Ying WANG ◽  
Chunyang TANG ◽  
Wei DU ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Phragmites Australis ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Plant Density ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Emergent Vegetation ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Shore Protection ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Wave Conditions

This paper presents a well-controlled laboratory experimental study to evaluate wave attenuation by artificial emergent plants (Phragmites australis) under different wave conditions and plant stem densities. Results showed substantial wave damping under investigated regular and irregular wave conditions and also the different rates of wave height and within canopy wave-induced flows as they travelled through the vegetated field under all tested conditions. The wave height decreased by 6%–25% at the insertion of the vegetation field and towards the downstream at a mean of 0.2 cm and 0.32 cm for regular and irregular waves respectively. The significant wave height along the vegetation field ranged from 0.89–1.76 cm and 0.8–1.28 cm with time mean height of 1.38 cm and 1.11 cm respectively for regular and irregular waves. This patterns as affected by plant density and also location from the leading edge of vegetation is investigated in the study. The wave energy attenuated by plant induced friction was predicted in terms of energy dissipation factor (fe) by Nielsen’s (1992) empirical model. Shear stress as a driving force of particle resuspension and the implication of the wave attenuation on near shore protection from erosion and sedimentation was discussed. The results and findings in this study will advance our understanding of wave attenuation by an emergent vegetation of Phragmites australis, in water system engineering like near shore and bank protection and restoration projects and also be employed for management purposes to reduce resuspension and erosion in shallow lakes.

scholarly journals SEA-BED CONFIGURATION IN RELATION TO BREAKWATER STABILITY

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 81 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.H. Van Oarschat ◽  
A. Wevers
Keyword(s):  
The Netherlands ◽  
Present Article ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Systematic Study ◽  
Public Works ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Sea Bed ◽  
Hydraulic Conditions ◽  
Overall Stability ◽  
The Stability

Stability tests on the Europoort breakwaters, situated on a shallow foreshore, clearly demonstrated the effect of the foreshore configuration on the overall stability. The present article gives a descriptionof the stability experiments and the interpretation leading to general conclusions regarding foreshore effects in combination with hydraulic conditions such as wave period, water depth and wave height. Both regular and irregular waves have been used. The experiments, carried out in commission of the Netherlands Government Department of Public Works (Rijkswaterstaat) were of an applied nature and were not directed primarily to the systematic study of foreshore effects.

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