scholarly journals MECHANISM OF OFFSHORE SAND DISCHARGE INTO SUBMARINE CANYON TRIGGERED BY CONSTRUCTING DETACHED BREAKWATER CLOSE TO SHORELINE

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Koji Yamada ◽  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Yoshio Suwa ◽  
Toshiro San-nami ◽  
Kou Furuike ◽  
...  

Several submarine canyons have developed offshore of the Aramata region of the Shimoni-ikawa coast in Toyama Bay, which is one of the three deep bays in Japan. The Kurobe River with a steep bed slope flows into the sea immediately north of this region, and a large amount of sediment has been supplied to this area, which has been transported by southward longshore sand transport. However, beach erosion has occurred owing to the decrease in sediment supply from the Kurobe River. Furthermore, since the construction of detached breakwaters as a measure against beach erosion, offshore sand transport has accelerated and beach erosion has become more severe. In this study, aerial photographs and bathymetric survey data were analyzed, then the mechanism of offshore sand transport was investigated using the BG model proposed by Serizawa et al. (2007).

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 118 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takayuki Kumada ◽  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Jimmy J. Y. Liu

The Dawu fishing port breakwater has been extending since 1956 in Taitung City located in the southeast part of Taiwan, obstructing southward longshore sand transport. Because of the blockage of longshore sand transport at this fishing port, severe downcoast erosion occurred, resulting in the wave overtopping damage to Route No. 9 extending along the coastline, and urgent measures were required to enhance the safety of the route. As measures, beach nourishment using coarse materials including gravel produced from the construction of a road tunnel was planned, as well as the construction of groins on the downcoast. We first analyzed beach changes around this fishing port using past aerial photographs and bathymetric survey data, and beach changes were reproduced using the contour-line-change model considering changes in grain size. Then, the effect of measures was investigated using the model.


2021 ◽  
Vol 21 (12) ◽  
pp. 3827-3842
Author(s):  
Changbin Lim ◽  
Tae Kon Kim ◽  
Sahong Lee ◽  
Yoon Jeong Yeon ◽  
Jung Lyul Lee

Abstract. In many parts, coastal erosion is severe due to human-induced coastal zone development and storm impacts, in addition to climate change. In this study, the beach erosion risk was defined, followed by a quantitative assessment of potential beach erosion risk based on three components associated with the watershed, coastal zone development, and episodic storms. On an embayed beach, the background erosion due to development in the watershed affects sediment supply from rivers to the beach, while alongshore redistribution of sediment transport caused by construction of a harbor induces shoreline reshaping, for which the parabolic-type equilibrium bay shape model is adopted. To evaluate beach erosion during storms, the return period (frequency) of a storm occurrence was evaluated from long-term beach survey data conducted four times per year. Beach erosion risk was defined, and assessment was carried out for each component, from which the results were combined to construct a combined potential erosion risk curve to be used in the environmental impact assessment. Finally, the proposed method was applied to Bongpo–Cheonjin Beach in Gangwon-do, South Korea, with the support of a series of aerial photographs taken from 1972 to 2017 and beach survey data obtained from the period commencing in 2010. The satisfactory outcomes derived from this study are expected to benefit eroding beaches elsewhere.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Euan Soutter ◽  
Ian Kane ◽  
David Hodgson ◽  
Stephen Flint

Submarine canyons with heads located close to shorelines, known as shore-connected canyons, provide a focussed pathway for basinward sediment transport. Placing greater constraints on the key parameters that control the formation of shore-connected canyons can help us predict the efficiency of sediment export to deep-water under different environmental conditions and through time. Using a numerical model incorporating geomorphic principles, we show that shore-connected canyons are most active when fluvial discharge is high, the continental shelf is steep and narrow, and the magnitude of relative sea-level change is high. The numerical model reproduces observed bathymetric distributions of shore-connected submarine canyons, indicating that the empirical relationships underlying these numerical models are accurate descriptions of shore-connected canyon formation in nature. Our study provides constraints on the key quantifiable parameters controlling shore-connected submarine canyon formation and maintenance, such as fluvial discharge and basin physiography, allowing for more accurate predictions of the efficiency and timing of sediment transfer to the deep sea under different conditions. The model results suggest that; 1) submarine canyons may form frequently on the slope due to submarine processes, but subaerial processes control which submarine canyons are most likely to connect to the shoreline, 2) margin physiography and sediment supply are more influential in driving submarine canyon incision across the shelf and sediment transfer than the exact nature of the gravity flow triggering mechanism, and 3) the stratigraphic records of shore-connected submarine canyons and fans are more influenced by onshore climate and tectonics than eustasy.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 63
Author(s):  
Takeo Matsu-ura ◽  
Takaai Uda ◽  
Takayuki Kumada ◽  
Michio Sumiya

Beach changes around Oharai Port facing the Pacific Ocean were investigated using bathymetric survey data collected over 25 years between 1979 and 2004. Between the south and offshore breakwaters of Oharai Port, 1.50×106 m3 of fine sand was deposited in this period, i.e., at an annual rate of 6.0×104 m3/yr, which was originally supplied from the Naka River 3 km north of the port. Also in the wave-shelter zone of the offshore breakwater south of the port, 7.0×106 m3 of fine sand was deposited between 1979 and 2004 at an annual rate of 2.8×105 m3/yr, which was transported by the northward longshore sand transport induced from outside to inside the wave-shelter zone of the offshore breakwater, resulting in severe beach erosion on the south coast outside the wave-shelter zone. Taking into consideration the fact that sand transport to the Kashimanada coast is now completely obstructed by the port breakwaters, sand bypassing and sand back passing to the coast from the sand deposition zone of Oharai Port are required.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 107 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kou Furuike ◽  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Masumi Serizawa ◽  
Toshiro San-nami ◽  
Toshinori Ishikawa

On the Seisho coast, submarine canyons have developed very close to the shoreline and the discharge of fluvial sediment of the Sakawa River into the submarine canyons has been reported, resulting in the net loss of sand into the offshore zone. The beach topography under dynamically equilibrium conditions owing to the sediment supply from the river and the sand loss into the submarine canyons during several thousand years was reproduced using the contour-line-change model considering the grain size composition. Long-term beach changes around the submarine canyons were accurately predicted and the effect of beach nourishment using a mixture of fine and coarse materials was investigated.


Author(s):  
Ryo Sakamoto ◽  
Ryo Sakamoto ◽  
Satoquo Seino ◽  
Satoquo Seino ◽  
Hirokazu Suzaki ◽  
...  

A construction of breakwaters and other shoreline structures on part of a coast influences drift sand transport in the bay, and causes comprehensive topographic changes on the beach. This study investigated shoreline and coastal changes, taking as an example of Shiraragahama Beach in Miiraku on the northwestern end of Fukue Island, Nagasaki Prefecture (Kyushu, Japan). Miiraku, adjacent to Saikai National Park, appears in the revered 8th century poetry collection “Manyoshu” and served as a port for a ship taken by the Japanese envoy to China during the Tang Dynasty (618-709). Because of the recent development of breakwaters for a fishing harbor, the shore environments of this beach have changed significantly. In this study, the status of silt deposits and topographic changes on this beach arising from the construction of a harbor breakwater were evaluated by comparing aerial photographs taken in different years. Next, the changes in the shoreline visible from aerial photographs from 1947 to 2014 were analyzed. Lastly, the altitude of the beaches was measured using accurate survey methods. The following results were obtained: 1) coastal erosion made rock cliffs to fall off along the shore and deposited sand on this beach; 2) the more serious advances or retreats of the shoreline took place around shoreline structures; 3) sandbars and beach cliffs were formed.


Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.


2016 ◽  
Vol 78 (5-3) ◽  
Author(s):  
Duratul Ain Tholibon ◽  
Junaidah Ariffin ◽  
Jazuri Abdullah ◽  
Juliana Idrus

A large number of studies both theoretical and experimental have been devoted to understand the physical mechanisms underlying the bar formation. This can be investigated by carrying out an experimental work in an erodible sand bed channel using a large-scale physical river model. The study included the various hydraulic characteristics with steady flow rates and sediment supply. An experimental work consists of four matrices of flow rate and channel width with other variables namely grains size and bed slope were kept constant. Details of bar profile development that generated using Surfer, a software used for 3D elevation plots are included.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward Anthony ◽  
Antoine Gardel ◽  
Morgane Jolivet ◽  
Guillaume Brunier ◽  
Franck Dolique

<p><span>The 1500 km-long wave-exposed coast of the Guianas, South America, is characterized at any time by up to 20+ large distinct mud banks with suspended mud concentrations of up to 1000 g/l migrating from the Amazon delta to the Orinoco delta under the influence of wave-driven longshore transport. Banks can be up to 60 km-long, strongly dissipate waves, and are separated alongshore by ‘inter-bank’ sectors of similar length. The latter are affected by shoreward propagation of much less dissipated waves that can generate rapid muddy shoreline erosion and reworking of beaches and cheniers formed from sand supplied by rivers draining the crystalline rocks of the Guiana Shield.</span></p><p><span>About 500 km northwest of the mouths of the Amazon, the pervasive mud and its effects on the nearshore wave regime determine, for the embayed, headland-bound beaches in French Guiana, outcomes that are important  from a long-term management perspective. These beaches have come under urban pressures and assure recreational and ecological functions such as provision of nesting sites for marine turtles. The sand-mud interactions, processes of sand segregation from mud, sediment transport modes, and morphodynamics associated with these beaches over timescales ranging from weeks to several decades, were analyzed from aerial photographs, satellite images, aerial photogrammetry, and field experiments. The longer bay beaches are exposed to longshore transport when mud is temporarily scarce (inter-bank phases), and subject in parts to overwash. During inter-bank phases, ‘normal’ westward sand transport along these beaches is generated by waves from E to NE, but is counter-balanced during bank phases by eastward drift at the leading edge of a bank as waves are refracted over the bank. This counter-drift prevails at a ‘mobile’ rotation front that moves with the bank’s leading edge migrating at rates of 1 to 2.5 km a year. As the bank passes, it further shelters beaches from wave reworking, with eventual re-exposure to waves and ‘normal’ drift following complete mud-bank passage. In the context of the ‘closed’ sand budget of these beaches, headlands spatially constrain sand mobility, and the unique mode of rotation induced by mud-bank refraction of waves plays an important role by counter-balancing unidirectional longshore transport that could otherwise result in permanent deprivation of updrift beach sectors of sand. Due to variability in bank-migration rates and spacing, normal drift and counter-drift may prevail, respectively, over periods exceeding two years but of unknown duration. The variability of this time frame of rotation poses a challenge to the implementation of set-back lines necessary to avoid the impingement of urbanization and sea-front activities on the long-term (>decadal) bandwidth of beach affected by rotation, which involves aperiodic and variable erosion and accretion in different parts of the beach. In this context of aperiodic beach rotation, prediction of mud-bank migration rates downdrift of the Amazon and of the imminent arrival of a mud bank, coupled with the firm implementation of shoreline development setback lines, are necessary to mitigate risks from erosion and overwash events.    </span></p>


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anne Bernhardt ◽  
Wolfgang Schwanghart

<p>The efficiency of environmental signal propagation from terrestrial sources to marine sinks highly depends on the connectivity of the sediment-routing system. Submarine canyons that couple river outlets with marine depocenters are particularly crucial links in the routing network as they convey terrestrial sediment, associated pollutants and organic carbon to the deep ocean. However, why and where submarine canyons incise into shelves is still poorly understood. Several factors were proposed, including narrow shelves along active continental margins, onshore sediment flux, more proximal sediment supply during sea-level lowstands, mass wasting along high-gradient continental slopes, and the occurrence of durable bedrock in adjacent catchments. In this study, we test whether we can predict shelf incision of submarine canyons from onshore and offshore parameters.</p> <p>We used maps of global elevation and bathymetry and analyzed them together with a global compilation of 5900 submarine canyon heads. The analysis relies on bagged regression trees that predict the distance of each canyon head from the shelf edge as a function of numerous candidate predictor variables. These variables describe spatial relations of river mouths and canyons, shelf geometry, continental slope gradient, as well as numerous terrestrial catchment properties. Moreover, we added 120 m to the elevation of the present-day topography to simulate a coastal landscape during the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM) and recalculated the topographic terrestrial parameters and the shelf width.</p> <p>The trained model explains 66% (R<sup>2</sup>) of the variance within the data set with a root mean square error (RMSE) of 31 km and a mean absolute error (MAE, less sensitive to outliers) of 17 km. The highest predictor importance is consistently reported for the weighted distance from canyon heads to the adjacent river mouths during the LGM and the present-day catchment gradient. We find no significant influence of shelf width, continental slope gradient and sediment load, and the moderate fit of the model indicates that we are still missing one or more important controls on the spatial location of canyon heads. Our predictions may be refined by including a more detailed assessment of catchment lithologies, locations of submarine groundwater discharge, locations of tectonic faults, and longshore current directions. Notwithstanding, we conclude that our model identifies important controls on the spatial occurrence and shelf incision of submarine canyons and sorts out much debated but seemingly unimportant variables.  </p>


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