Spending time in the European Alps means, especially in the tourist season, being constantly reminded of both the heroism and suffering brought about by this magnificent landscape. The bookshops of Grenoble all have prominent displays of the exploits and adventures of living and prematurely killed Alpinists, and on the radio you can but wait for the news of this year’s first deaths on the slopes of Mont Blanc—at 15,782 feet (4,810 metres) the highest mountain peak in Europe. But this landscape used to be cruel in a more sinister and hidden way, invisible to the naked eye. Not before certain experiments were made on seaweeds gathered on the Normandy beaches could we begin to understand and deal with the cause of the terrible sights and encounters Swiss Alpinist pioneer Horace-Bénédict de Saussure had in a small remote village near Aosta in the Piedmont in present-day Italy. Saussure, a young professor at the university of Geneva, was out on one of his numerous hikes in the western Alps, nowadays part of Switzerland, Italy, and France, but then largely under the jurisdiction of the Kingdom of Sardinia. On this summer’s day in 1768 he came upon a small village and naturally wanted to know where he was, so he asked the first man he met on the way into the village, but got no reply. With one person, that could have been a language problem, or a general distrust towards suspicious strangers (entering a small café in a remote village and registering everyone inside going completely silent does not mean they have all simultaneously developed a speech disorder). However, as he got further into the village and still got no more than inarticulate grunts from the second and third person as well, he began to wonder what was going on. Closer to the village centre he saw a disquieting number of men and women with enormous goitres, fat lips, perpetually halfopen mouths, and blank expressions, and was terrified. As he recalls in the second volume of the first serious description of this region, Voyage dans les Alpes, ‘It was as if an evil spirit had transformed every inhabitant into a dumb animal, leaving only the human form to show that they had once been men’.