On the wind-induced growth of slow water waves of finite steepness

2008 ◽  
Vol 608 ◽  
pp. 243-274 ◽  
Author(s):  
WILLIAM L. PEIRSON ◽  
ANDREW W. GARCIA
Keyword(s):  
Tangential Stress ◽  
Growth Rates ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Dynamic Range ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Wave Drag ◽  
Wave Growth ◽  
Wave Range

Determining characteristic growth rates for water waves travelling more slowly than the wind has continued to be a key unresolved problem of air–sea interaction for over half a century. Analysis of previously reported and recently acquired laboratory wave data shows a systematic decline in normalized wave growth with increasing mean wave steepness that has not previously been identified. The normalized growth dynamic range is comparable with previously observed scatter amongst other laboratory data gathered in the slow wave range. Strong normalized growth rates are observed at low wave steepnesses, implying an efficient wave-coherent tangential stress contribution. Data obtained during this study show quantitative agreement with the predictions of others of the interactions between short wind waves and the longer lower-frequency waves. Measured normalized wave growth rates are consistent with numerically predicted growth due to wave drag augmented by significant wave-coherent tangential stress.

The Stochastic Parametric Mechanism for Growth of Wind-Driven Surface Water Waves

2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (4) ◽  
pp. 862-879 ◽  
Author(s):  
Brian F. Farrell ◽  
Petros J. Ioannou
Keyword(s):  
Surface Water ◽  
Growth Rates ◽  
Atmospheric Pressure ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Pressure Fluctuations ◽  
Theoretical Understanding ◽  
Wave Growth ◽  
Atmospheric Pressure Fluctuations ◽  
Surface Water Waves

Abstract Theoretical understanding of the growth of wind-driven surface water waves has been based on two distinct mechanisms: growth due to random atmospheric pressure fluctuations unrelated to wave amplitude and growth due to wave coherent atmospheric pressure fluctuations proportional to wave amplitude. Wave-independent random pressure forcing produces wave growth linear in time, while coherent forcing proportional to wave amplitude produces exponential growth. While observed wave development can be parameterized to fit these functional forms and despite broad agreement on the underlying physical process of momentum transfer from the atmospheric boundary layer shear flow to the water waves by atmospheric pressure fluctuations, quantitative agreement between theory and field observations of wave growth has proved elusive. Notably, wave growth rates are observed to exceed laminar instability predictions under gusty conditions. In this work, a mechanism is described that produces the observed enhancement of growth rates in gusty conditions while reducing to laminar instability growth rates as gustiness vanishes. This stochastic parametric instability mechanism is an example of the universal process of destabilization of nearly all time-dependent flows.

Linear dynamics of wind waves in coupled turbulent air—water flow. Part 1. Theory

1994 ◽  
Vol 271 ◽  
pp. 119-151 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. E. Belcher ◽  
J. A. Harris ◽  
R. L. Street
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rate ◽  
Water Flow ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Air Flow ◽  
Local Equilibrium ◽  
Outer Region ◽  
Wave Growth ◽  
Drift Current ◽  
The Waves

When air blows over water the wind exerts a stress at the interface thereby inducing in the water a sheared turbulent drift current. We present scaling arguments showing that, if a wind suddenly starts blowing, then the sheared drift current grows in depth on a timescale that is larger than the wave period, but smaller than a timescale for wave growth. This argument suggests that the drift current can influence growth of waves of wavelength λ that travel parallel to the wind at speed c.In narrow ‘inner’ regions either side of the interface, turbulence in the air and water flows is close to local equilibrium; whereas above and below, in ‘outer’ regions, the wave alters the turbulence through rapid distortion. The depth scale, la, of the inner region in the air flow increases with c/u*a (u*a is the unperturbed friction velocity in the wind). And so we classify the flow into different regimes according to the ratio la/λ. We show that different turbulence models are appropriate for the different flow regimes.When (u*a + c)/UB(λ) [Lt ] 1 (UB(z) is the unperturbed wind speed) la is much smaller than λ. In this limit, asymptotic solutions are constructed for the fully coupled turbulent flows in the air and water, thereby extending previous analyses of flow over irrotational water waves. The solutions show that, as in calculations of flow over irrotational waves, the air flow is asymmetrically displaced around the wave by a non-separated sheltering effect, which tends to make the waves grow. But coupling the air flow perturbations to the turbulent flow in the water reduces the growth rate of the waves by a factor of about two. This reduction is caused by two distinct mechanisms. Firstly, wave growth is inhibited because the turbulent water flow is also asymmetrically displaced around the wave by non-separated sheltering. According to our model, this first effect is numerically small, but much larger erroneous values can be obtained if the rapid-distortion mechanism is not accounted for in the outer region of the water flow. (For example, we show that if the mixing-length model is used in the outer region all waves decay!) Secondly, non-separated sheltering in the air flow (and hence the wave growth rate) is reduced by the additional perturbations needed to satisfy the boundary condition that shear stress is continuous across the interface.

Temporal and Spatial Growth of Wind Waves

2007 ◽  
Vol 37 (1) ◽  
pp. 106-114 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Stiassnie ◽  
Y. Agnon ◽  
P. A. E. M. Janssen
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rates ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wind Profile ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Shear Velocity ◽  
Spatial Growth ◽  
Wave Celerity ◽  
Temporal And Spatial ◽  
Distinct Maximum ◽  
Logarithmic Wind Profile

Abstract A solution of Rayleigh’s instability equation, which circumvents the apparent critical-layer singularity, is provided. The temporal and spatial growth rates of water waves exposed to a logarithmic wind profile are calculated and discussed. The findings are similar to previously published results, except for shear velocity–to–wave celerity ratios larger than 2, where the newly calculated growth rates start to decrease after having reached a distinct maximum. The ratio of the spatial to temporal growth rates is examined. It is shown to deviate by up to 20% from the leading-order value of 2. The implications of the growth rate to the modal distributions of energy input from wind to waves, for young and mature seas, and in temporal/spatial growth scenarios, are analyzed.

On weakly turbulent scaling of wind sea in simulations of fetch-limited growth

2011 ◽  
Vol 669 ◽  
pp. 178-213 ◽  
Author(s):  
ELODIE GAGNAIRE-RENOU ◽  
MICHEL BENOIT ◽  
SERGEI I. BADULIN
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulations ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Initial Growth ◽  
Limited Growth ◽  
Wave Growth ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Wind Sea

Extensive numerical simulations of fetch-limited growth of wind-driven waves are analysed within two approaches: a ‘traditional’ wind-speed scaling first proposed by Kitaigorodskii (Bull. Acad. Sci. USSR, Geophys. Ser., Engl. Transl., vol. N1, 1962, p. 105) in the early 1960s and an alternative weakly turbulent scaling developed recently by Badulin et al. (J. Fluid Mech.591, 2007, 339–378). The latter one uses spectral fluxes of wave energy, momentum and action as physical scales of the problem and allows for advanced qualitative and quantitative analysis of wind-wave growth and features of air–sea interaction. In contrast, the traditional approach is shown to be descriptive rather than proactive. Numerical simulations are conducted on the basis of the Hasselmann kinetic equation for deep-water waves in a wide range of wind speeds from 5 to 30 m s −1 and for the ideal case of fetch-limited growth: permanent wind blowing perpendicularly to a straight coastline. Two different wave input functions, Sin, and two methods for calculating the nonlinear transfer term Snl (Gaussian quadrature method, or GQM, a quasi-exact method based on the use of Gaussian quadratures, and the discrete interaction approximation, or DIA) are used in the simulations. Comparison of the corresponding results firstly shows the relevance of the analysis of wind-wave growth in terms of the proposed weakly turbulent scaling, and secondly, allows us to highlight some critical points in the modelling of wind-generated waves. Three stages of wind-wave development corresponding to qualitatively different balance of the source terms, Sin, Sdiss and Snl, are identified: initial growth, growing sea and fully developed sea. Validity of the asymptotic weakly turbulent approach for the stage of growing wind sea is determined by the dominance of nonlinear transfers, which results in a rigid link between spectral fluxes and wave energy. This stage of self-similar growth is investigated in detail and presented as a consequence of three sub-stages of qualitatively different coupling of air flow and growing wind waves. The key self-similarity parameter of the asymptotic theory is estimated to be αss = 0.68 ± 0.1.Further prospects of wind-wave modelling in the context of the presented weakly turbulent scaling are discussed.

scholarly journals Coriolis effects on the elliptical instability in cylindrical and spherical rotating containers

2007 ◽  
Vol 585 ◽  
pp. 323-342 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. LE BARS ◽  
S. LE DIZÈS ◽  
P. LE GAL
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rates ◽  
Close Agreement ◽  
Unstable Mode ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Fixed Rate ◽  
Elliptical Instability ◽  
Normal Mode Theory ◽  
Set Up ◽  
First Time ◽  
Selection Of

The effects of the Coriolis force on the elliptical instability are studied experimentally in cylindrical and spherical rotating containers placed on a table rotating at a fixed rate $\tilde{\Omega}^G$. For a given set-up, changing the ratio ΩG of global rotation $\tilde{\Omega}^G$ to flow rotation $\tilde{\Omega}^F$ leads to the selection of various unstable modes due to the presence of resonance bands, in close agreement with the normal-mode theory. No instability occurs when ΩG varies between −3/2 and −1/2 typically. On decreasing ΩG toward −1/2, resonance bands are first discretized for ΩG<0 and progressively overlap for −1/2 ≪ ΩG < 0. Simultaneously, the growth rates and wavenumbers of the prevalent stationary unstable mode significantly increase, in quantitative agreement with the viscous short-wavelength analysis. New complex resonances have been observed for the first time for the sphere, in addition to the standard spin-over. We argue that these results have significant implications in geo- and astrophysical contexts.

Wind-generated gravity-capillary waves: laboratory measurements of temporal growth rates using microwave backscatter

1975 ◽  
Vol 70 (3) ◽  
pp. 417-436 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. R. Larson ◽  
J. W. Wright
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rates ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Friction Velocity ◽  
Capillary Waves ◽  
Spectral Amplitude ◽  
Bragg Scattering ◽  
Laboratory Measurements ◽  
Wind Speeds ◽  
Tightly Coupled ◽  
Microwave Backscatter

The growth rates of wind-induced water waves at fixed fetch were measured in a laboratory wave tank using microwave backscatter. The technique strongly filters out all wavenumber component pairs except for a narrow window at the resonant Bragg scattering conditions. For these waves the spectral amplitude was measured as a function of the time after a fixed wind was abruptly started. The radars were aligned to respond to waves travelling in the downwind direction at wavelengths of 0·7-7 cm. Wind speeds ranged from 0·5 to 15 m/s. Fetches of 1·0, 3·0 and 8·4 m were used. In every case, the spectral amplitude initially grew at a single exponential rate β over several orders of magnitude, and then abruptly ceased growing. No dependence of the growth rate on fetch was observed. For all wavelengths and wind speeds the data can be fitted by \[ \beta (k,u_{*},{\rm fetch})=f(k)\,u^n_{*}, \] with n = 1·484 ± 0·027. Here u* is the friction velocity obtained from vertical profiles of mean horizontal velocity. For each wind speed, f(k) had a relative maximum near k = kn ≃ 3·6 cm−1. Rough estimates of β/2ω, where ω is the water wave frequency, and of the wind stress supported by short waves indicate that the observed growth rates are qualitatively very large. These waves are tightly coupled to the wind, and play a significant role in the transfer of momentum from wind to water.

scholarly journals THE ONE-DIMENSIONAL WAVE SPECTRA AT LIMITED FETCH

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 13
Author(s):  
Hisashi Mitsuyasu
Keyword(s):  
Similarity Theory ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Laboratory Data ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
One Dimensional ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Laboratory Tank ◽  
The One ◽  
Dimensional Wave

The data for the spectra of wind-generated waves measured in a laboratory tank and in a bay are analyzed using the similarity theory of Kitaigorodski, and the one-dimensional spectra of fetch-limited wind waves are determined from the data. The combined field and laboratory data cover such a wide range of dimensionless fetch F (= gF/u2 ) as F : 102 ~ 10 . The fetch relations for the growthes of spectral peak frequency u)m and of total energy E of the spectrum are derived from the proposed spectra, which are consistent with those derived directly from the measured spectra.

Experimental study of the initial stages of wind waves' spatial evolution

2011 ◽  
Vol 681 ◽  
pp. 462-498 ◽  
Author(s):  
DAN LIBERZON ◽  
LEV SHEMER
Keyword(s):  
Energy Transfer ◽  
Growth Rates ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Pressure Fluctuations ◽  
Theoretical Models ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Spatial Growth ◽  
The Mean

Despite a significant progress and numerous publications over the last few decades a comprehensive understanding of the process of waves' excitation by wind still has not been achieved. The main goal of the present work was to provide as comprehensive as possible set of experimental data that can be quantitatively compared with theoretical models. Measurements at various air flow rates and at numerous fetches were carried out in a small scale, closed-loop, 5 m long wind wave flume. Mean airflow velocity and fluctuations of the static pressure were measured at 38 vertical locations above the mean water surface simultaneously with determination of instantaneous water surface elevations by wave gauges. Instantaneous fluctuations of two velocity components were recorded for all vertical locations at a single fetch. The water surface drift velocity was determined by the particle tracking velocimetry (PTV) method. Evaluation of spatial growth rates of waves at various frequencies was performed using wave gauge records at various fetches. Phase relations between various signals were established by cross-spectral analysis. Waves' celerities and pressure fluctuation phase lags relative to the surface elevation were determined. Pressure values at the water surface were determined by extrapolating the measured vertical profile of pressure fluctuations to the mean water level and used to calculate the form drag and consequently the energy transfer rates from wind to waves. Directly obtained spatial growth rates were compared with those obtained from energy transfer calculations, as well as with previously available data.

Experiments on strong interactions between solitary waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 85 (3) ◽  
pp. 417-431 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. D. Weidman ◽  
T. Maxworthy
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Vries Equation ◽  
Rectangular Channel ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Strong Interactions ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Qualitative And Quantitative ◽  
The Waves

Experiments on the interaction between solitary shallow-water waves propagating in the same direction have been performed in a rectangular channel. Two methods were devised to compensate for the dissipation of the waves in order to compare results with Hirota's (1971) solution for the collision of solitons described by the Kortewegde Vries equation. Both qualitative and quantitative agreement with theory is obtained using the proposed corrections for wave damping.

scholarly journals Local and global pairing instabilities of two interlaced helical vortices

2019 ◽  
Vol 863 ◽  
pp. 927-955 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hugo Umberto Quaranta ◽  
Mattias Brynjell-Rahkola ◽  
Thomas Leweke ◽  
Dan S. Henningson
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rates ◽  
Double Helix ◽  
Water Channel ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Rotation Frequency ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Driving Mechanism ◽  
Helical Vortices ◽  
Local Pairing ◽  
Real Flow

We investigate theoretically and experimentally the stability of two interlaced helical vortices with respect to displacement perturbations having wavelengths that are large compared to the size of the vortex cores. First, existing theoretical results are recalled and applied to the present configuration. Various modes of unstable perturbations, involving different phase relationships between the two vortices, are identified and their growth rates are calculated. They lead to a local pairing of neighbouring helix loops, or to a global pairing with one helix expanding and the other one contracting. A relation is established between this instability and the three-dimensional pairing of arrays of straight parallel vortices, and a striking quantitative agreement concerning the growth rates and frequencies is found. This shows that the local pairing of vortices is the driving mechanism behind the instability of the helix system. Second, an experimental study designed to observe these instabilities in a real flow is presented. Two helical vortices are generated by a two-bladed rotor in a water channel and characterised through dye visualisations and particle image velocimetry measurements. Unstable displacement modes are triggered individually, either by varying the rotation frequency of the rotor, or by imposing a small rotor eccentricity. The observed unstable mode structure, and the corresponding growth rates obtained from advanced processing of visualisation sequences, are in good agreement with theoretical predictions. The nonlinear late stages of the instability are also documented experimentally. Whereas local pairing leads to strong deformations and subsequent breakup of the vortices, global pairing results in a leapfrogging phenomenon, which temporarily restores the initial double-helix geometry, in agreement with recent observations from numerical simulations.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document