Fashion in interwar France: The urban vision of Elsa Schiaparelli

2017 ◽  
Vol 28 (2) ◽  
pp. 159-172 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marylaura Papalas

Elsa Schiaparelli’s avant-garde designs and her collaborative efforts with surrealist artists are the subject of most analyses of her work, which focus on themes of glamour, gender and the construction of a modern feminine beauty. Yet a number of lesser-known creations from the 1920s and 1930s, equally experimental in nature, reveal other progressive themes in the Italian-born designer’s oeuvre. References to the city in a number of her pieces, for example, provide a commentary on the important relationship between fashion, women and their urban environments. This article examines designs like the skyscraper silhouette, plastic accessories and new synthetic fabrics, echoing contemporary building materials, alongside the changing landscape of interwar Paris. Comparing the imagined city suggested in Schiaparelli’s sartorial creations with the real metropolis where these garments were worn, this study reveals fashion’s potential to express women’s desires for an improved urban reality.

Author(s):  
Е.И. Тараканова

Образ города, предстающий в расписанных Беноццо Гоццоли капеллах, фиксирует в себе достижения изобразительного искусства, архитектуры и градостроительства в эпоху Кватроченто. В статье впервые прослеживается эволюция изображений городских видов и конкретных сооружений во фресковых циклах, выполненных мастером в Риме, Умбрии и Тоскане. Представление образа города в творчестве Гоццоли связано с решением перспективных задач, реальной ренессансной городской действительностью, особенностями заказа и личностью художника. Проанализированы разные ракурсы и масштабы в изображении городов, а также варианты их символического прочтения как в контексте священной истории, так и современных Беноццо событий. Показано, как в его творчестве новое ренессансное искусство сочетается с наследием античности и интернациональной готики. The subject of this article is an ideal city in Italy of the Early Renaissance. Starting with the first decades of the 15th century the erecting a new buildings at cities, primarily in Florence which was at that time a very progressive part of Italy, could be seen as a tendency to realize a perfect city on the basis of humanistic conceptions. Even the real situation when medieval patterns of planning and building combined with Renaissance elements in Florence was interpreted from an idealized perspective: the social and political superiority of Florentine Republic seems interflowed with its perfect appearance. Despite the fact that a new type of the city as architectural and planning whole was not devised in Renaissance Italy, the model of an ideal city was being successfully developed there in Quattrocento treatises on architecture and vedutas. The author of this article examines the principles underlying the idea of such city with optimal potentialities for man to fulfill its predestination on Earth as it was presented concepts of humanism.


2021 ◽  
Vol 291 ◽  
pp. 05032
Author(s):  
T.M. Trifonova ◽  
D.A. Malyavin

The article deals with the problem of the harmonious development of schoolchildren in the city of Khabarovsk. The key components for the harmonious development of the personality of a modern student are shown theoretically. The survey data of schoolchildren of grades 6-11 on the subject of their satisfaction with the organization of the educational process have been presented. The analysis of the respondents’ answers revealed a complete discrepancy between the real conditions of teaching modern schoolchildren to those components that are necessary for the harmonious development of the child’s personality in the system of lifelong education. In the studied educational institutions of Khabarovsk priority is given mainly to the learning process. The educational process is often implemented in only one direction to the detriment of other areas of education. The results obtained define the problem of determining the causes of such stagnation, as well as the conditions conducive to the development of active, harmoniously developed people.


2020 ◽  
Vol 35 (2) ◽  
pp. 160-181
Author(s):  
M. V. Kvitnitskiy

For a long time the localization of Yuriev (now Bila Tserkva — the city in the Kyiv region of Ukraine) has been the subject of discussions connected to the attempts to find a stone temple. Excavations in 1980-s, made by Ruslan Orlov, have discovered the remains of the temple and put the end to debate. The temple was interpreted as a four-pillar three-apsed structure and dated to the late 12th — first half of the 13th century. Further comprehension of the materials made the authors of the study to question this interpretation. In 2011 and 2014, in connection with the idea of a museum foundation and architectural reproduction the foundations of temple were discovered. Two outbuildings of the first half of the 12th century and the first half of the 13th century have been found. The outbuilding of the 12th century contained the building materials of the 2nd half of the 11th century. In the outbuilding of the first half of the 13th century bar bricks were found. After the excavations it was cleared that the foundations were significantly damaged and the apse was completely destroyed in 2008. New finds and materials allow to suggest that here two stone buildings have been existed. The first one was built in the second half of the 11th century and completely dismantled in the first third of the 13th century. From these materials the second temple was built with the participation of the builders of the Kyiv school and Western Europe. The latter have brought new masonry techniques and materials (brick and limestone sand mortar). There are good reasons to suggest that the new temple was a five-apsed.


Author(s):  
Carmen Moreno Balboa

¿Ha cambiado el concepto de ciudad en tan sólo 2400 años? Si la ciudad la componen los ciudadanos ¿son éstos distintos de los ciudadanos de las antiguas polis? Si el ciudadano es quien participa en las funciones de gobierno de su ciudad, ¿quién es ahora realmente, ciudadano? ¿Quién quiere serlo? y quién quisiera participar de dichas funciones, ¿cómo podría conseguirlo?En la sociedad actual se producen dos situaciones antagónicas que afectan al desarrollo de la ciudad, por un lado las administraciones, actuando orientadas al interés general, reconocen pero congelan las posibilidades de participar de la población en el urbanismo y la creación de ciudad; y por otro lado la sociedad se mueve y actúa al margen de las administraciones en la mejora de su entorno y sus condiciones de vida, desde las denominadas iniciativas urbanas. Cuáles son los motivos de esta situación y cómo hacer que ambos movimientos coincidan en la generación del denominado “Urbanismo Colaborativo”, es el objeto de este trabajo.AbstractHas the concept of city changed in only the past 2400 years? If the city is the one consisting the citizens, are these any different of the citizens ancient polis? If the citizen is one participating in his city’s government functions, who is the real citizen now a days? Who wants to be one? Who wants to participate in those functions? How could someone acomplish that?In today’s society, there are two antagonistic situations that are affecting the development of the city, on the one hand the administrations, acting orientated to the general interest, they recognize but freeze the possibilities that the citizens have of participating in urbanism and the creation of the city. And on the other hand, the society moves and acts outside of the administrations for the improvement of their environment and their living conditions, doing this from the named urban initiatives. What causes this situation and how to put together both movements and for them to agree in the generation of the named “Collaborative Urbanism” is the subject and what this study wants to acomplish.


Author(s):  
Mireille Ribière

A former student of Roland Barthes, Perec rejected the dogmatism of the French avant-garde and the oppressive nature of theory in the late 1960s and 1970s, while dismissing the myth of the inspired artist and upholding those aspects of modernism that enabled art to assert itself as constructed intentionality. When he reconsidered the issue of the subject in its relationship to history and society, to the real, and to time and space, he managed to steer clear of expressivity, psychology and conventional mimesis. The co-existence of autobiographical and sociological concerns with formal constraints that both challenge and integrate the notion of chance, as well as his particular brand of formal pre-composition, which does not exclude humour, playfulness and immediacy, constitute further aspects of his enduring presence in the visual arts. This chapter argues that Perec practised literature both as a craft and as a form of conceptual art, and examines how the fundamental questions he raised, the conversations he initiated and the various methodologies he proposed have made, and continue to make him relevant to contemporary artists.


2016 ◽  
Vol 70 (2) ◽  
pp. 30-37 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jade D. Petermon

When he began principal shooting in Chicago in summer 2015, Spike Lee assured audiences that Chi-Raq would engage the issue of violence on Chicago's South Side with intention and purpose. Chicagoans were skeptical because of Lee's use of the portmanteau phrase, which had been the subject of much debate in the city, as the film's title. Written almost entirely in verse, Chi-Raq is an adaptation of classical Greek playwright Aristophanes's comedy Lysistrata that marks an extension of Lee's use of satire. Despite Lee's promises, he flails outside of his native Brooklyn. The film primarily adopts a didactic and reductionist view, blaming black Chicagoans for their own “self-inflicted genocide” and encouraging them to put their trust in the notoriously corrupt Chicago Police Department.


Muzealnictwo ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 59 ◽  
pp. 113-122
Author(s):  
Piotr Kosiewski

The year 2017 – a centenary of the “1st Exhibition of Polish Expressionists” – was proclaimed as the Jubilee Year of Polish Avant-garde. To mark the occasion over 200 events were organised by nearly 100 institutions. What is the outcome of it all? Has it changed the way the avant-garde movement and its role in Polish culture and tradition were perceived? Among accomplishments the jubilee year brought about is undoubtedly a number of exhibitions, their catalogues as well as other publications devoted to the avant-garde. Unfortunately, not all the initiatives turned out to be successful. Some of them though will be well remembered, inter alia: the cycle of exhibitions prepared by the Art Museum in Łódź which were accompanied by comprehensive and well edited catalogues; exhibitions: “Urban Revolt” at the National Museum in Warsaw, and “Avant-gardes of Szczecin” at the National Museum in Szczecin. One of the achievements is bigger amount of visual and textual resources available in Poland to explore the subject of the avant-garde. The jubilee publications also contained numerous documental materials that were not well known before. Significant theoretical texts have been published as well: the extended edition of Władysław Strzemiński’s Theory of Vision, and the Athens Charter by Le Corbusier, the importance of which can not be emphasised enough. The publication of relevant source materials must also be brought to attention; they came out as a series of catalogues by the Art Museum in Łódź, inter alia an ample selection of articles written by Debora Vogel in the book that accompanied the exhibition “Montages. Debora Vogel and the New Legend of the City”. During the jubilee year a question whether the avant-garde tradition resonates today was raised on many occasions. Two exhibitions presented various attitudes towards the heritage of the avant-garde: mentioned above “Montages” exhibition in Łódź, and one in the International Cultural Centre in Kraków “Lviv, 24 June 1937. City, Architecture, Modernism”.


Author(s):  
Светлана Израилевна Козлова

Предмет настоящей статьи идеальный город Италии Раннего Возрождения. Уже с первых десятилетий XV века в возведении новых зданий в городах и прежде всего Флоренции в то время самой передовой части Италии, проступала тенденция воплотить совершенный город, основанный на системе гуманистических представлений. Сама действительная ситуация соединения в городском пространстве средневекового характера его планировки и застройки с вкраплением ренессансных элементов оценивалась с идеализирующей позиции: социально-политическое превосходство Флорентийской республики рисовалось гармонично слитым с ее образцовым внешним обликом. Однако новый тип города как архитектурно-планировочное целое фактически не был создан в Италии, но модель идеального города широко разрабатывалась в трактатах об архитектуре, а также в живописных ведутах Кватроченто. Автор статьи рассматривает принципы, определяющие идею этого города, где существуют оптимальные возможности для осуществления человеком своего предназначения на земле, как оно понималось гуманистами. The subject of this article is an ideal city in Italy of the Early Renaissance. Starting with the first decades of the 15th century the erecting a new buildings at cities, primarily in Florence which was at that time a very progressive part of Italy, could be seen as a tendency to realize a perfect city on the basis of humanistic conceptions. Even the real situation when medieval patterns of planning and building combined with Renaissance elements in Florence was interpreted from an idealized perspective: the social and political superiority of Florentine Republic seems interflowed with its perfect appearance. Despite the fact that a new type of the city as architectural and planning whole was not devised in Renaissance Italy, the model of an ideal city was being successfully developed there in Quattrocento treatises on architecture and vedutas. The author of this article examines the principles underlying the idea of such city with optimal potentialities for man to fulfill its predestination on Earth as it was presented concepts of humanism.


Author(s):  
Aleksandra Khadynskaya

Введение. Рассматривается образ Петербурга в лирике Ивана Елагина, одного из заметных представителей второй волны эмиграции. Цель – проследить развитие образа в его эволюции, зафиксировать «общие места» петербургской поэтики, вместе с тем отметить и личный вклад автора в разработку темы в условиях эмиграции. Материал и методы. Методология исследования предполагает интерпретацию поэтических текстов с опорой на теоретико-литературоведческие понятия (акмеизм, литературная традиция, поэзия диаспоры и метрополии и пр.). Автор статьи также придерживался сравнительно-исторического метода при анализе текстов, сопоставляя стихотворения, имеющие приметы одного поэтического течения, но «разнесенных» во времени. Результаты и обсуждение. Образ Петербурга в литературе русского зарубежья не раз становился предметом научных изысканий, но лирика Ивана Елагина еще не привлекала пристального внимания литературоведов в плане трактовки темы Петербурга с акмеистических позиций. Был рассмотрен ряд стихотворений поэта как яркий пример следования заветам акмеизма в условиях эмиграции, хотя в лирике Елагина не менее важен и авангардный элемент. Но в образе города на Неве поэт сознательно ориентируется на поэтику акмеизма, о чем говорят многочисленные аллюзии и тематические переклички со старшими акмеистами – Н. Гумилевым, А. Ахматовой, О. Мандельштамом. Заключение. Лирическое воплощение образа Петербурга у Ивана Елагина продиктовано его акмеистической ориентацией и желанием вписать свое имя в ряд собственных поэтических учителей-акмеистов. Петербург Елагина актуализирует общие для «петербургского текста» установки, но, кроме того, демонстрирует эмигрантскую специфику в трактовке образа Северной Пальмиры. Доминирующей чертой образа становится его мортальность, устремленность в «потустороннее», отражение в нем экзистенциальной тоски и ностальгии – извечных «спутников» поэта-изгнанника.Introduction. The article considers the image of St. Petersburg in the lyrics of Ivan Elagin, one of the prominent representatives of the second wave of emigration. The objectives of the study are: to trace the development of the image in its evolution, to fix the “common places” of St. Petersburg poetics, at the same time to note the author’s personal contribution to the development of the theme in conditions of emigration. Material and methods. The research methodology involves the interpretation of poetic texts based on theoretical and literary concepts (acmeism, literary tradition, poetry of the diaspora and the metropolis, etc.). Results and discussion. The image of St. Petersburg in the literature of the Russian abroad has repeatedly become the subject of scientific research, but the lyrics of Ivan Elagin have not yet attracted the close attention of literary scholars in interpreting the theme of St. Petersburg from acmeistic positions. We considered a number of his poems as a vivid example of following the precepts of acmeism in conditions of emigration, although the avant-garde element is no less important in the lyrics of Elagin. But in the image of the city on the Neva, the poet deliberately focuses on the poetics of acmeism, as evidenced by numerous allusions and thematic exchanges with senior acmeists – N. Gumilev, A. Akhmatova, O. Mandelstam. Conclusion. The lyrical embodiment of the image of St. Petersburg by Ivan Elagin is dictated by his acmeistic orientation and the desire to write his name in a line of his own poetic acmeist teachers. St. Petersburg of Ivan Elagin actualizes the general settings for the “St. Petersburg text”, but, in addition, demonstrates the emigrant specificity in interpreting the image of Northern Palmyra. The dominant feature of the image is its mortality, striving for “beyond”, the reflection in it of existential longing and nostalgia – the eternal “companions” of the exiled poet.


TERRITORIO ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 148-163
Author(s):  
Luca Fondacci

In the 1970s, the fragile historical centre of the city of Perugia was a key area where the binomial of sustainable mobility and urban regeneration was developed and applied. At the turn of the xxi century, the low carbon automatic people-mover Minimetrò broadened that application from the city's historical centre to the outskirts, promoting the enhancement of several urban environments. This paper is the outcome of an investigation of original sources, field surveys and direct interviews, which addresses the Minimetrò as the backbone of a wide regeneration process which has had a considerable impact on the economic development of a peripheral area of the city which was previously devoid of any clear urban sense. The conclusion proposes some solutions to improve the nature of the Minimetrò as an experimental alternative means of transport.


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