‘No, YOU make it!’: Outsourcing production to fashion consumers to mediate labour

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 257-279 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ida Falck Øien ◽  
Johanna Zanon
Keyword(s):  
It Outsourcing ◽  
Fashion Design ◽  
Scientific Management ◽  
Design Experiment ◽  
Audience Participation ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Non Profit ◽  
Fashion Brand ◽  
Common Strategy ◽  
And Training

This practice-based article examines an attempt to reconnect fashion labour with value, after the fast fashion system increased the gap between the two. Developed by Norwegian fashion brand and collective platform HAiKw/ (Harald Lunde Helgesen and Ida Falck Øien), the Drop-in Factory was a fashion design experiment conducted at the non-profit art space Kunsthall Oslo in 2019. In this experiment, labour was outsourced to consumers-visitors, who by contract paid for equipment rental and training, earning ‘Factory Coins’ that could only be spent on the finished product. Inviting amateurs to make their own garment in a workshop setting has become a common strategy of design activism in fashion. However, instead of focusing on teaching individuals craft expertise, the Drop-in Factory explored collective making practices in an industrial-like environment, inspired by manufacturing and scientific management. Tensions arose over pay when some participants felt that their labour was unfairly compensated. As a response, roleplaying emerged from the experiment. Interviews of participants, conducted months later, incidentally echoed roleplay debriefing sessions. Their accounts show that they acquired labour literacy and embodied knowledge of fashion manufacturing, which extended to contracts and remuneration. While it remains unclear whether the Drop-in Factory led participants to revalue fashion labour, audience participation itself became the mediation of fashion labour.

scholarly journals A Social Media Mining and Ensemble Learning Model: Application to Luxury and Fast Fashion Brands

Information ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (4) ◽  
pp. 149
Author(s):  
Yulin Chen
Keyword(s):  
Public Participation ◽  
Brand Positioning ◽  
Image Model ◽  
Web Crawler ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Social Media Mining ◽  
Fashion Brand ◽  
Community Information ◽  
Brand Information ◽  
Media Mining

This research proposes a framework for the fashion brand community to explore public participation behaviors triggered by brand information and to understand the importance of key image cues and brand positioning. In addition, it reviews different participation responses (likes, comments, and shares) to build systematic image and theme modules that detail planning requirements for community information. The sample includes luxury fashion brands (Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton) and fast fashion brands (Adidas, Nike, and Zara). Using a web crawler, a total of 21,670 posts made from 2011 to 2019 are obtained. A fashion brand image model is constructed to determine key image cues in posts by each brand. Drawing on the findings of the ensemble analysis, this research divides cues used by the six major fashion brands into two modules, image cue module and image and theme cue module, to understand participation responses in the form of likes, comments, and shares. The results of the systematic image and theme module serve as a critical reference for admins exploring the characteristics of public participation for each brand and the main factors motivating public participation.

Benefit appeals and perceived corporate hypocrisy: implications for the CSR performance of fast fashion brands

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiaoyong Wei ◽  
Sojin Jung
Keyword(s):  
Online Survey ◽  
Interactive Effect ◽  
Critical Role ◽  
Experimental Manipulation ◽  
Chinese Consumers ◽  
Significant Interaction Effect ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Fashion Brand ◽  
Corporate Social

Purpose When fast fashion brands launch corporate social responsibility (CSR) programs, consumers may consider these brands to behave hypocritically as their business model is generally perceived as being inconsistent with sustainable practices. Built on construal level theory (CLT), this study aims to examine how the benefit appeals that are widely used in CSR initiatives affect perceived corporate hypocrisy and the CSR performance of fast fashion brands. Design/methodology/approach This study designed an online experiment with a 2 (fashion brand: fast fashion vs. unknown) × 2 (benefit appeal: self-benefit vs other-benefit) stimulus, using a virtual label named “Eco Care” for experimental manipulation. A total number of 298 Chinese consumers participated in the experiment and they answered an online survey. Findings It was found that the brand types (fast fashion vs unknown) and benefit appeals (self-benefit vs other benefit) did not elicit perceived corporate hypocrisy nor did them directly affect perceptions of CSR performance. However, there was a significant interaction effect of them. That is, fast fashion brand’s CSR performance was judged based on how the brand framed its sustainability claims. A fast fashion brand’s CSR label significantly increased hypocrisy perceptions when the label used a self-benefit appeal and the interactive effect of the fast fashion brand and the self-benefit appeal hindered the formation of a green brand image and brand purchase intentions. Originality/value This study adds a body of knowledge to the literature by examining the relationship between benefit appeals and perceived corporate hypocrisy from the perspective of CLT. The findings can help fast fashion marketers better understand the critical role of benefit appeals by acknowledging that the misuse of communication strategies may result in unfavorable consequences, thus ruining their efforts to improve their brand’s image.

scholarly journals Design de sistemas para análise do ciclo de vida de um produto: slow fashion

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Flávia Pereira Conti
Keyword(s):  
Life Cycle ◽  
Real World ◽  
Human Ecology ◽  
Sao Paulo ◽  
Fashion Design ◽  
São Paulo ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Life Cycle Design ◽  
Power Point ◽  
Slow Fashion

O artigo descreve o processo de reavaliação e esmeração de um sistema de produção da microempresa de semijoias Cantrelle Design, com o objetivo de otimizar a estrutura organizacional e de produção por meio do design de sistemas e o slow fashion. O design de sistemas por considerar o produto como um conjunto inteiro, e o slow fashion, porque visa a democratização do processo de criação de peças de forma mais lenta, preocupando-se com o desenvolvimento dos processos. Para alcançar um resultado satisfatório, utilizou-se a metodologia desenvolvida por Ezio Manzini e Carlo Vezzoli, o Life Cycle Design (LCD), procurando reduzir os inputs e outputs o máximo possível, tanto em termos quantitativos quanto qualitativos. Ponderando assim, a nocividade de seus efeitos, por meio da avaliação de todas as fases do produto, que são subdivididas em pré-produção, produção, distribuição, uso e descarte. Por se tratar de semijoias, sendo, então, um bem durável, requere-se poucos recursos durante o uso e manutenção, concentra-se em reduzir o impacto nas fases antecedentes e posteriores ao uso.  Como resultado, obteve-se uma potencialização na gestão da empresa, reduzindo os gastos energéticos e materiais. Atingiu-se tal solução por meio de uma melhor organização de etapas operacionais nas fases antecedentes ao uso do produto, buscando adequar-se ao sistema slow fashion, com a otimização do volume de compras e logística de vendas, reavaliação da embalagem e material aplicados. Percebeu-se que a matéria prima já em uso é a menos impactante para o ambiente por ser de alta durabilidade e passível de reaproveiramnento. Por fim, redesenhou-se a embalagem com tecido reciclado, de uma forma que possa ser reutilizada pelo consumidor final após ser adquirida. Conclui-se que é possível readequar um sistema já em andamento, adaptando-o de forma a reduzir seu impacto na natureza por meio do slow fashion e design de sistemas, valorizando o processo de produção, não só o lucro financeiro que a venda do produto proporciona, além de aperfeiçoar o sistema como uma unidade e repensar o conjunto para valorizar a qualidade e o modo de produção, expondo a possibilidade de renovar o sistema industrial vigente de modo sustentável e consciente, por meio de uma ação local, visando atingir um macrossistema de forma harmônica. Palavras-chave: slow fashion, design de sistemas, semijoias, sustentabilidade, metodologia.ReferênciasBASTAGNINO, Luigi. Design di Sistemi i Sistemi Industriali Aperti: un nuovo approccio al progretto, un nuovo modello di bussiness. Sem ano. 26 slides. Apresentação em Power-point. BUENO, Bárbara. Movimento slow life: desacelerando a vida. 2016. Disponível em < https://pt.linkedin.com/pulse/movimento-slow-life-desacelerando-vida-b%C3%A1rbara-mantovani-bueno>. Acesso em: 24 de maio de 2017.DELLA MEA, Luciana. A moda em [re]evolução: slow fashion. 2014. Disponível em <http://www.autossustentavel.com/2014/05/a-moda-em-revolucao-slow-fashion.html>. Acesso em 24 de maio de 2017.DELLA MEA, Luciana. Design de sistemas para a sustentabilidade. 2012. Disponível em <http://www.autossustentavel.com/2012/06/design-de-sistemas-para.html>. Acesso em 24 de maio de 2017. MANZINI, Ezio; VEZZOLI, Carlo. O desenvolvimento de produtos sustentáveis: os requisitos ambientais dos produtos industriais. São Paulo. Editora da Universidade de São Paulo, 2002. PAPANEK, Victor. Design do the Real World: human ecology and social change. Londres. Thames & Hudson Ltd, 1985.REVIDE. O conceito de fast fashion. 2010. Disponível em <https://www.revide.com.br/editorias/moda/o-conceito-de-fast-fashion/>. Acesso em 24 de maio de 2017. SARATE, Fernanda. O movimento slow life e a desaceleração da sociedade de consumo contemporânea. 2009. Disponível em < http://www.comunicacaoetendencias.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/TCC-Fernanda-Sarate.pdf>. Acesso em: 24 de maio de 2017. SILVA, Samantha; BUSARELLO, Raul. Fast fashion e slow fashion: o processo criativo na contemporaneidade. 2016.

Optimal ordering and disposal decisions for products with a fixed shelf life

2020 ◽  
Vol 54 (5) ◽  
pp. 1453-1465
Author(s):  
Iris-Pandora Krommyda ◽  
Vasileios Tatsis ◽  
Konstantina Skouri
Keyword(s):  
Shelf Life ◽  
Time Instant ◽  
Human Consumption ◽  
Selling Price ◽  
The European Union ◽  
Expiration Date ◽  
Non Profit ◽  
Closed Form Solutions ◽  
Common Strategy ◽  
Tax Deductions

In this paper, motivated by the current increasing interest and action on food waste reduction, inventory decisions of a retailer who deals with a product that has a fixed shelf life are studied. Being a common strategy of many retail stores, we assume that at a specific time instant, close to the expiration date, a price markdown is offered in order to increase demand. However, at the same time, due to customers’ attention to the freshness of the product, the demand becomes a decreasing function with respect to the time remaining before the expiration date. In accordance with the European Union food donation guidelines, we assume that if at the end of the reorder interval unsold items remain that have not exceeded their expiration date, they can be donated to non-profit organizations for human consumption. The donated products can generate direct revenue from tax deductions and indirect revenue by increasing the company’s reputation and gain of goodwill from the customers. If the unsold items have expired, they can be sold at a salvage price to the livestock market. The aim of our model is to determine the reorder interval, the time instant to markdown the product’s initial selling price and the quantity that will be donated or sold to the livestock market so that the profit of the system is maximized. Closed form solutions are obtained, which depend on specific parametric conditions, providing managerial insights.

scholarly journals Which Consumer Associations Can Build a Sustainable Fashion Brand Image? Evidence from Fast Fashion Brands

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 1703 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yunjeong Kim ◽  
Kyung Wha Oh
Keyword(s):  
Network Analysis ◽  
Brand Image ◽  
Brand Associations ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Female Consumers ◽  
Fashion Brand ◽  
Depth Analysis ◽  
Sustainable Fashion ◽  
Depth Interviews

Since fast fashion is often considered the opposite of sustainable fashion, this study was conducted to clarify the consumer brand associations with sustainable fashion by analyzing three fast fashion brands. Our research included two studies. First, we conducted in-depth interviews with 20 female consumers in Korea who had purchase experience with the sustainable fashion of three selected brands, H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo, to identify sustainable keyword associations. We then structured the keyword data using network analysis. The keyword associations for the three brands resulted in a network of 60 nodes and 629 links with the term “eco-friendly” as the most meaningful keyword. Second, we surveyed 200 women and quantitatively confirmed the association of “eco-friendly fabric” among the keywords suggestive of “eco-friendly” as the most important factor in building a sustainable fashion brand image. In addition, keywords, such as “marketing” and “campaign”, were ranked in the top ten in H&M and Zara, which may imply the opportunistic use of greenwash. This study contributes to the literature by applying in-depth analysis of consumer associations of fast fashion brands from a sustainability perspective through network analysis. We expect our findings to help fashion companies strategically build a sustainable fashion brand image.

Fast fashion brand extensions: An empirical study of consumer preferences

2010 ◽  
Vol 17 (7) ◽  
pp. 472-487 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tsan-Ming Choi ◽  
Na Liu ◽  
Shuk-Ching Liu ◽  
Joseph Mak ◽  
Yeuk-Ting To
Keyword(s):  
Empirical Study ◽  
Consumer Preferences ◽  
Brand Extensions ◽  
Fast Fashion ◽  
Fashion Brand

scholarly journals Come from away: Best practices in mini-sabbaticals for the development of young investigators: a White Paper by the SEQUIN (mini-Sabbatical Evaluation and QUality ImprovemeNt) Group

2019 ◽  
Vol 3 (1) ◽  
pp. 37-44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael H. Pillinger ◽  
Stephenie C. Lemon ◽  
Martin S. Zand ◽  
P. Jeffrey Foster ◽  
Jeanne S. Merchant ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Best Practice ◽  
Research Unit ◽  
White Paper ◽  
National Institutes Of Health ◽  
Regulatory Agencies ◽  
Limited Data ◽  
Non Profit ◽  
History Of ◽  
Training Institutions ◽  
And Training

AbstractMini-sabbaticals are formal short-term training and educational experiences away from an investigator’s home research unit. These may include rotations with other research units and externships at government research or regulatory agencies, industry and non-profit programs, and training and/or intensive educational programs. The National Institutes of Health have been encouraging training institutions to consider offering mini-sabbaticals, but given the newness of the concept, limited data are available to guide the implementation of mini-sabbatical programs. In this paper, we review the history of sabbaticals and mini-sabbaticals, report the results of surveys we performed to ascertain the use of mini-sabbaticals at Clinical and Translational Science Award hubs, and consider best practice recommendations for institutions seeking to establish formal mini-sabbatical programs.

scholarly journals Effects of Differential Strategies of Emotion Regulation

2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 225 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephanie Boehme ◽  
Stefanie C. Biehl ◽  
Andreas Mühlberger
Keyword(s):  
Emotion Regulation ◽  
Behavioral Therapy ◽  
Emotional Experience ◽  
Emotional Reactions ◽  
P300 Amplitude ◽  
Emotional States ◽  
Emotion Regulation Strategies ◽  
Common Strategy ◽  
Regulation Strategies ◽  
And Training

Patients suffering from mental disorders, especially anxiety disorders, are often impaired by inadequate emotional reactions. Specific aspects are the insufficient perception of their own emotional states and the use of dysfunctional emotion regulation strategies. Both aspects are interdependent. Thus, Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT) comprises the development and training of adequate emotion regulation strategies. Traditionally, reappraisal is the most common strategy, but strategies of acceptance are becoming more important in the course of advancing CBT. Indeed, there is evidence that emotion regulation strategies differ in self-reported effectiveness, psychophysiological reactions, and underlying neural correlates. However, comprehensive comparisons of different emotion regulation strategies are sparse. The present study, therefore, compared the effect of three common emotion regulation strategies (reappraisal, acceptance, and suppression) on self-reported effectiveness, recollection, and psychophysiological as well as electroencephalographic dimensions. Twenty-nine healthy participants were instructed to either reappraise, accept, suppress, or passively observe their upcoming emotional reactions while anxiety- and sadness-inducing pictures were presented. Results showed a compelling effect of reappraisal on emotional experience, skin conductance response, and P300 amplitude. Acceptance was almost as effective as reappraisal, but led to increased emotional experience. Combining all results, suppression was shown to be the least effective but significantly decreased emotional experience when thoughts and feelings had to be suppressed. Moreover, results show that greater propensity for rumination differentially impairs strategies of emotion regulation.

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