scholarly journals CHARACTERISTICS OF FLOW IN RUN-UP OF PERIODIC WAVES

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ary Roos ◽  
Jurjen A. Battjes
Keyword(s):  
Slope Angle ◽  
Water Layer ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Slope Gradient ◽  
Characteristic Parameters ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Particle Velocities

An experimental study is presented of some characteristic parameters of the flow in the up-rush and down-rush of periodic waves breaking on a plane, smooth slope. The water layer thickness has been measured as a function of time at four locations above still water level. Discharges and particle velocities have been calculated. The results have been made nondimensional on the basis of Hunt's formula for the run-up height. They appear to be either independent of the wave steepness H/L and slope gradient tan Ct or to be a function of a single similarity parameter £ - tana / yH/L only. An hypothesis is stated concerning a relation between the mean rate of overtopping of a dike by waves, and the run-up which would occur under the same circumstances on an uninterrupted slope. On the basis of this hypothesis the overtopping volume per wave can be normalized so as to make it independent of slope angle and wave steepness. A comparison of the result with measurements from other sources indicates a rough agreement.

scholarly journals SURF SIMILARITY

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Battjes
Keyword(s):  
Phase Difference ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
General Terms ◽  
Depth Ratio ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Set Up

This paper deals with the following aspects of periodic water waves breaking on a plane slope breaking criterion, breaker type, phase difference across the surfzone, breaker height-to-depth ratio, run-up and set-up, and reflection. It is shown that these are approximately governed by a single similarity parameter only, embodying both the effects of slope angle and incident wave steepness. Various physical interpretations of this similarity parameter are given, while its role is discussed m general terms from the viewpoint of model prototype similarity.

scholarly journals A SIMILARITY PARAMETER FOR BREAKWATERS: THE MODIFIED IRIBARREN NUMBER

2018 ◽  
pp. 28
Author(s):  
Maria Clavero ◽  
Pedro Folgueras ◽  
Pilar Diaz-Carrasco ◽  
Miguel Ortega-Sanchez ◽  
Miguel A. Losada
Keyword(s):  
Incident Wave ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Wave Pattern ◽  
Relative Width ◽  
Scattering Parameter ◽  
Wave Regime ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Mean Water Level ◽  
Run Up

In the 14th ICCE, Battjes (1974) showed that a single similarity parameter only, embodying both the effects of slope angle and incident wave steepness, was important for many aspects of waves breaking on impermeable slopes, and suggested to call it the "Iribarren number", denoted by "Ir". Ahrens and McCartney (1975) verified the usefulness of Ir to describe run-up and stability on rough permeable slopes. Since then, many researchers applied Ir to characterize and to develop formulae for the design of breakwaters and to verify their stability. On the other hand, depending on their typology, breakwaters reflect, dissipate, transmit, and radiate incident wave energy. Partial standing wave patterns are likely to occur at all types of breakwater, thus playing an important role in defining the wave regime in front of, near (seaward and leeward), and inside the breakwater. The characteristics of the porous medium, relative grain size D/L and relative width, Aeq/L2, are relevant magnitudes in that wave pattern (Vilchez et al. 2016), being D the grain diameter, L the wave length and Aeq the porous area per unit section under the mean water level. Aeq/L2 is a scattering parameter controlling the averaged transformation of the wave inside the porous section of the structure. For a vertical porous breakwater (Type A), Aeq is simply B · h, and for a constant depth, the scattering parameter is reduced to B/L, which is the relative breakwater width.

scholarly journals Wave run-up on embayed beaches. Study case: Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil

2017 ◽  
Vol 65 (2) ◽  
pp. 187-200 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Vieira da Silva ◽  
Paula Gomes da Silva ◽  
Rafael Sangoi Araujo ◽  
Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein ◽  
Elírio E. Toldo Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Southern Brazil ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Linear Processes ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up

ABSTRACT This paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measurement point and; 4) development of a new formula/approach to assess wave run-up on embayed beaches (in both exposed and protected areas). During the experiments the significant wave height varied from 0.5 m to 3.01 m, the mean wave period from 2.79 s to 7.76 s (the peak period varied between 2.95 s and 17.18 s), the mean wave direction from 72.5° to 141.9° (the peak direction varied from 39.2° to 169.8°) and the beach slope (tan β) from 0.041 to 0.201. The proposed formula is in good agreement with measured data for different wave conditions and varying degrees of protection. The analysis demonstrates that although R² varies from 0.52 to 0.75, the wave run-up distribution over the measurements agreed well with the proposed model, as shown by quantile-quantile analysis (R²=0.98 to 0.99). The errors observed in individual cases may be related to errors of measurements, modeling and to non-linear processes in the swash zone, such as infragavity waves.

scholarly journals SET-UP AND RUN-UP IN SHOALING BREAKERS

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 41 ◽  
Author(s):  
William G. Van Dorn
Keyword(s):  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Equation Of Motion ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Partial Reflection ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Block Sliding

This paper reports the results of a series of laboratory experiments with periodic waves breaking on uniformly sloping impermeable beaches with the object of distinguishing set-up from dynamic shoreline motions due to partial reflection, the combination of which is normally referred to as 'run-up'. The principal findings are: 1. The mean set-up across the breaker zone was observed to be linear with mean slope proportional to the square of the bottom slope. The mean slope was independent of frequency over slopes of 0.04 or less, and increased with wave period over steeper slopes. 2. The dynamic run-up range was found to be proportional to the square of wave period times beach slope, in agreement with the equation of motion for a nearly frictionless block sliding on corresponding slopes under gravity. 3. The total run-up was poorly correlated with Hunt's empirical formula, nor could any reasonable deterministic justification of this formula be deduced from the present results. 4. Transient run-up was observed to considerably exceed steady-state values in most cases, suggesting that time-dependent momentum flux should be considered in the run-up of variable (natural) waves.

scholarly journals Application of digital image processing in slope surface runoff velocity analysis under simulated rainfall conditions

2017 ◽  
Vol 49 (4) ◽  
pp. 1304-1312
Author(s):  
Tiexiong Gong ◽  
Yuanjun Zhu
Keyword(s):  
Image Processing ◽  
Surface Runoff ◽  
Lateral Diffusion ◽  
Ease Of Use ◽  
Velocity Analysis ◽  
Slope Gradient ◽  
Tracer Method ◽  
Dye Tracer ◽  
The Mean ◽  
High Runoff

Abstract To have accurate runoff velocity, there is need to improve dye tracer method for estimating surface runoff velocity. This can enhance the calculations of relevant hydrologic parameters that will lead to a better understanding of hydrological processes and soil erosion. In this study, an integrated dye tracer and image processing method (IPV) and dye tracer method (AOV), respectively, were used to estimate runoff velocity under three slope gradients (5°, 10°, and 15°) and three slope positions (up-slope, mid-slope, and down-slope). The results showed more variation in runoff velocity under IPV than AOV. Both IPV and AOV were positively correlated with slope gradient. IPV values were close to AOV ones for slope gradients ≤5°, but were significantly different for slope gradients ≥10°. The mean AOV value was 10.6% higher than that of IPV. Regression analysis showed that compared with AOV, IPV overestimated and underestimated runoff under low and high runoff velocity conditions, respectively. The use of image processing in IPV was advantageous because of its ease of use with fewer artificial errors and its suitability for lateral diffusion of runoff. Irrespectively, additional studies are needed to verify and/or improve further the use of this method in runoff velocity analysis.

Irregular Wave and Current Loads on a Fish Farm System

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arnt G. Fredriksen ◽  
Basile Bonnemaire ◽  
Øyvind Nilsen ◽  
Leiv Aspelund ◽  
Andreas Ommundsen
Keyword(s):  
Particle Velocity ◽  
Fish Farm ◽  
Fluid Particle ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Engineering Practice ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Environmental Force ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Particle Velocities ◽  
Farm System

Accurate calculation of the design mooring loads on an aquaculture fish farm mooring system is often a difficult task. The fish farm system has a large horizontal extension with variable environmental conditions across the entire structure. In addition, the drag loads on the fish nets are thought to be the governing environmental force. This means that the mean position of the fish farm is a function of the mean of the fluid particle velocity squared, where the fluid particle velocity must be taken as the sum of current and wave induced fluid particle velocities. Additional offsets will be slowly varying, where the response time will depend on the total mooring stiffness. The magnitudes depend on the height and length on wave groups in the irregular sea state. The paper presents simulations of the response of such a system to a set of combined irregular waves and current conditions. The response evolution in time is discussed as well as parameters affecting the maximum responses in the systems (displacements and loads). Finally, the resulting loads on the fish farm in irregular waves are compared to loads obtained in equivalent regular waves, as this is an often used engineering practice when analyzing the response and mooring loads of a fish farm.

Tsunami Hazard of the Caspian Sea

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alisa Medvedeva ◽  
Igor Medvedev
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level ◽  
Caspian Sea ◽  
Tsunami Hazard ◽  
Seismic Sources ◽  
Deterministic Approach ◽  
The Caspian Sea ◽  
Tsunami Waves ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sea Coast

<p>A regional model of tsunami seismic sources in the zone of the Main Caucasian thrust has been developed. The parameters of probable models of seismic sources and their uncertainties were estimated based on the available data on historical earthquakes and active faults of the region. The scenario modeling technique was used for the tsunami zoning of the Caspian Sea coast. The time period covered by the model catalog of earthquakes used to calculate the generation and propagation of tsunamis is about 20 000 years, which is longer than the recurrence periods of the strongest possible earthquakes. The recurrence graphs of the calculated maximum tsunami heights for the entire sea coast were plotted. On their basis, the maximum heights of tsunami waves on the coast were calculated with recurrence periods of 250, 500, 1000 and 5000 years and the corresponding survey maps of the tsunami zoning of the Caspian Sea were created. The algorithm for calculating the tsunami run-up on the coast is improved, taking into account the residual (postseismic) displacements of the bottom and land relief. Estimates of tsunami hazard for the coast near the city of Kaspiysk were carried out: within the framework of the deterministic approach, the maximum wave heights and run-up distance were calculated. It is shown that the deterministic approach slightly overestimates the maximum heights of tsunami waves with certain return periods. It is shown that changes in the mean sea level can affect the features of the propagation of tsunami waves in the Caspian Sea. Thus, at an average sea level of -25-26 m, the Kara-Bogaz-Gol Bay is linked with the entire sea through a narrow strait. It leads to the propagation of tsunami waves into the water area of the bay and a decrease in wave height on the eastern coast of the sea. When the mean sea level decreases below -27 m, the positive depths in the strait disappear and water exchange through the strait stops, and the wave height in this part of the sea increases.</p>

VARIATIONS IN THE KARA SEA LEVEL, THEIR STERIC FACTORS, AND SOLAR RADIATION DURING 1993-2018

2021 ◽  
pp. 38-52
Author(s):  
A.V. KHOLOPTSEV ◽  
◽  
S.A. PODPORIN ◽  
V.A. SAFONOV ◽  
◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Solar Radiation ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Water Layer ◽  
Kara Sea ◽  
Mean Values ◽  
Mean Intensity ◽  
Steric Factors ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Long Term Variations

The GLORYS12v.1 and ERA5 reanalyses for different months are used to study a relationship between long-term variations in the monthly mean values of sea level in different areas of the Kara Sea and their steric factors during 1993-2018. The areas of the sea were identified where the relationships between these changes and variations in the mean temperature and salinity of the upper quasihomogeneous water layer, as well as the variations in the monthly mean intensity of their insolation, are statistically significant.

The Content of IMF Staff Reports for Euro Area Countries

2014 ◽  
pp. 272-292
Author(s):  
Lena Golubovskaja
Keyword(s):  
Standard Deviation ◽  
Euro Area ◽  
Mean Value ◽  
Systematic Bias ◽  
Executive Board ◽  
Sample Mean ◽  
Warning Tone ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Imf

This chapter analyzes the tone and information content of the two external policy reports of the Internal Monetary Fund (IMF), the IMF Article IV Staff Reports, and Executive Board Assessments for Euro area countries. In particular, the researchers create a tone measure denoted WARNING based on the existing DICTION 5.0 Hardship dictionary. This study finds that in the run-up to the current credit crises, average WARNING tone levels of Staff Reports for Slovenia, Luxembourg, Greece, and Malta are one standard deviation above the EMU sample mean; and for Spain and Belgium, they are one standard deviation below the mean value. Furthermore, on average for Staff Reports over the period 2005-2007, there are insignificant differences between the EMU sample mean and Staff Reports’ yearly averages. Researchers find the presence of a significantly increased level of WARNING tone in 2006 (compared to the previous year) for the IMF Article IV Staff Reports. There is also a systematic bias of WARNING scores for Executive Board Assessments versus WARNING scores for the Staff Reports.

scholarly journals Effect of wave steepness to relative wave run-up on OWEC breakwater

2020 ◽  
Vol 419 ◽  
pp. 012117
Author(s):  
A I D Puspita ◽  
M A Thaha ◽  
M S Pallu ◽  
F Maricar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Run Up
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