A Study on the Woven Construction of Fabric Dyed With Natural Indigo Dye and Finishing for Applying to Product Design for Home Textile Products

This research aims to study woven fabric construction with natural indigo dyeing with finishing for home textile applications. The physical and mechanical properties, including color fastness tests, of these woven fabrics according to ISO standards for home textiles exported to the European Union were characterized. Tensile strength, tear strength, and pilling resistance of these woven fabrics were appropriate to design, and had enough strength for bed linens, duvet covers, and pillowcases. The color fastness to washing, water, and light of these woven fabrics passed the requirements for bed linens and pillowcases, except for color fastness to wet rubbing, due to the low performance of natural dyestuff. Thus, a finishing technique of water repellency was applied to improve these properties. This design of natural fiber fabrics dyed with natural indigo was developed for home textile products whose fabrics were produced by community enterprise. These home textile products can be used as a collection prototype for a spa room in a hotel.

Characterization of Microplastics Released Based on Polyester Fabric Construction during Washing and Drying

With the increasing production of synthetic materials, more microplastic fibers are being generated while washing clothes. Consequently, these particles are increasingly detected in the aquatic environment. Synthetic fibers produced via washing have a relatively high contribution to microplastic pollution. Hence, recent research on reducing the release of microplastic fibers is attracting considerable attention. In this study, fabric-specific analysis was performed by strictly controlling various factors, and each washing and drying process was improved by focusing on the mechanical factors affecting microplastic release. Furthermore, the mass of the collected microplastic fibers and their length distribution were measured. Fabric construction, including chemical composition and yarn type, impacted the microplastics released during washing and drying. Differences in the mechanical factors during washing helped to identify the physical factors affecting microplastic release. These results on the release of microplastics may provide a basis for developing a filter system that can minimize the unintended environmental consequences.

Plenum a la Mode - Augmented Reality Fashions

Inspired by ideas portrayed in science fiction, the authors sought to develop a set of augmented reality fashions that showcased scenes from a science fiction novel recently published by the principal author. The development team included artists and designers, a programmer, and the writer. Significant technical challenges needed to be overcome for success, including fabric construction and manipulation, image enhancement, robust image recognition and tracking capabilities, and the management of lighting and suitable backgrounds. Viewing geometries were also a non-trivial problem. The final solution permitted acceptable but not perfect real-time tracking of the fashion models and the visualization of both static and dynamic 3D elements overlaid onto the physical garments.

Ka mua Ka muri

<p><b>Modern generative and procedural digital tools are beginning to provide a new and previously impossible method of engaging with indigenous design from all parts of the globe. Diverse geometric patterns form the basis of many indigenous art forms, and complex digital design workflows can recreate and extend upon these.</b></p> <p>This thesis is centred around traditional Māori arts and, in particular, fabric arts as there is an opportunity for a digital tool to be established that can interact with Māori design in a far more engaging way than previous, default Western architectural design methods. This research forms an argument that modern computation tools and complex digital workflows allow for much-needed engagement, as Māori culture is often misused throughout New Zealand and the wider world.</p> <p>This thesis seeks to establish an innovative digital tool that can engage with Māori concepts of time and space. From researching Māori culture, it is apparent that Māori architecture is understood in a diametrically opposed way to Western architecture. By exploiting digital tools and modern fabrication methods, Māori understanding of time and space can become the design driver to form a new architectural linguistics that engages, instead of supplants, Māori culture.</p> <p>Traditional Māori fabric construction techniques were selected for exploration, due to the complex relationship between their structural integrity and intricate decorative beauty. Many fabric techniques have been tested and implemented into the final architectural form that has derived a new ornamental, speculative, architectural language.</p> <p>The architectural proposals are focused on ephemeral architectural structures based upon two typologies. The first is the traditional Māori hākari stage, a temporary structure erected for major multi-tribe feasts and celebrations throughout pre- and post-contact eras. The research into the hākari stage informs an outcome that analyses the modern fashion show typology. While seemingly opposites, the two typologies have fascinating similarities through their notions of time and space, which creates an exciting framework for new architectural outcomes.</p>

KA MUA, KA MURI

<p><b>Modern generative and procedural digital tools are beginning to provide a new and previously impossible method of engaging with indigenous design from all parts of the globe. Diverse geometric patterns form the basis of many indigenous art forms, and complex digital design workflows can recreate and extend upon these.</b></p> <p>This thesis is centred around traditional Māori arts and, in particular, fabric arts as there is an opportunity for a digital tool to be established that can interact with Māori design in a far more engaging way than previous, default Western architectural design methods. This research forms an argument that modern computation tools and complex digital workflows allow for much-needed engagement, as Māori culture is often misused throughout New Zealand and the wider world.</p> <p>This thesis seeks to establish an innovative digital tool that can engage with Māori concepts of time and space. From researching Māori culture, it is apparent that Māori architecture is understood in a diametrically opposed way to Western architecture. By exploiting digital tools and modern fabrication methods, Māori understanding of time and space can become the design driver to form a new architectural linguistics that engages, instead of supplants, Māori culture.</p> <p>Traditional Māori fabric construction techniques were selected for exploration, due to the complex relationship between their structural integrity and intricate decorative beauty. Many fabric techniques have been tested and implemented into the final architectural form that has derived a new ornamental, speculative, architectural language.</p> <p>The architectural proposals are focused on ephemeral architectural structures based upon two typologies. The first is the traditional Māori hākari stage, a temporary structure erected for major multi-tribe feasts and celebrations throughout pre- and post-contact eras. The research into the hākari stage informs an outcome that analyses the modern fashion show typology. While seemingly opposites, the two typologies have fascinating similarities through their notions of time and space, which creates an exciting framework for new architectural outcomes.</p>

KA MUA, KA MURI

<p><b>Modern generative and procedural digital tools are beginning to provide a new and previously impossible method of engaging with indigenous design from all parts of the globe. Diverse geometric patterns form the basis of many indigenous art forms, and complex digital design workflows can recreate and extend upon these.</b></p> <p>This thesis is centred around traditional Māori arts and, in particular, fabric arts as there is an opportunity for a digital tool to be established that can interact with Māori design in a far more engaging way than previous, default Western architectural design methods. This research forms an argument that modern computation tools and complex digital workflows allow for much-needed engagement, as Māori culture is often misused throughout New Zealand and the wider world.</p> <p>This thesis seeks to establish an innovative digital tool that can engage with Māori concepts of time and space. From researching Māori culture, it is apparent that Māori architecture is understood in a diametrically opposed way to Western architecture. By exploiting digital tools and modern fabrication methods, Māori understanding of time and space can become the design driver to form a new architectural linguistics that engages, instead of supplants, Māori culture.</p> <p>Traditional Māori fabric construction techniques were selected for exploration, due to the complex relationship between their structural integrity and intricate decorative beauty. Many fabric techniques have been tested and implemented into the final architectural form that has derived a new ornamental, speculative, architectural language.</p> <p>The architectural proposals are focused on ephemeral architectural structures based upon two typologies. The first is the traditional Māori hākari stage, a temporary structure erected for major multi-tribe feasts and celebrations throughout pre- and post-contact eras. The research into the hākari stage informs an outcome that analyses the modern fashion show typology. While seemingly opposites, the two typologies have fascinating similarities through their notions of time and space, which creates an exciting framework for new architectural outcomes.</p>

Nanomaterials for UV protective textiles

Harmful portion of ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the significant physical carcinogen in our natural environment. The damage caused by UV exposure to our body is cumulative and builds up over the years. UV protective textiles have been used to protect the wearer from harmful UV radiation. UV blocking effect of textile depends on various parameters viz. fiber type, yarn structure, weave, fabric construction factor, finishes, dyes etc. Further, UV protective property of textiles can be improved by incorporating UV blocking agent in the textile matrix. Several nanomaterial possesses excellent UV blocking effect and these could be incorporated into the textile matrix to improve the UV blocking properties of textiles. In this review, author discuss the various conventional ways to impart UV blocking property to the textile materials. Author also survey the current state-of-the-art of nanomaterials based UV protective textiles, mechanism of UV blocking properties of various nanomaterials, provide an overview of UV protective fabric manufacturing techniques and also discuss the durability of nanomaterials treated UV protective textiles. Finally, the manuscript has been concluded with few major challenges for the development of UV protective textiles by using nanomaterials.

A review of UV radiation protection on humans by textiles and clothing

PurposeThis review deals with the pros and cons of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on human beings and the role of textile clothing and the chemicals used for textiles to protect from their harmful effects.Design/methodology/approachUV radiation (UVR) which has further divided into UVA, UVB, and UVC. Almost 100% of UVC and major portion of UVB are bounced back to stratosphere by ozone layer while UVA enters the earth atmosphere. Excessive exposure of solar or artificial UVR exhibit potential risks to human health. UVR is a major carcinogen and excessive exposure of solar radiation in sunlight can cause cancer in the lip, skin squamous cell, basal cell and cutaneous melanoma, particularly in people with the fair skin.FindingsThis article aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the harmful effects of UVR on human skin, factors affecting UV irradiance and factors affecting UV protection offered by textile clothing.Originality/valueEffect of fiber properties, yarn properties, fabric construction, fabric treatments and laundering has been reviewed along with the identification of gaps in the reported research. A comparison of inorganic and organic UV absorbers has also been given along with different testing and evaluation methods for UV protective clothing.

El tejido y la sororidad y su aporte a la construcción de memoria. El caso de las Tejedoras por la Memoria de Sonsón

El presente artículo expone los resultados de una investigación adelantada con mujeres organizadas en torno a la construcción de memoria como forma de superación del conflicto armado en Colombia. Dichas experiencias muestran cómo, desde la cotidianidad, es posible generar procesos de construcción de tejido social, sororidad y empoderamiento que posibiliten la recuperación misma de la memoria, el aporte a la paz y otra forma de construir sociedad como alternativa a la violencia armada que por muchos años afectó la vida de las mujeres en nuestro país. Así mismo, el artículo da cuenta de las vivencias de las mujeres en el municipio de Sonsón (Antioquia) que, organizadas y movilizadas a través del Costurero Tejedoras por la Memoria de Sonsón, han hecho de este espacio un referente para la construcción de la paz y el empoderamiento, en un proceso de reconciliación social. Abstract: This article shows the results of an investigation carried out with women organizedaround the construction of memory as a way to overcome the armed conflict in Colombia. These experiences show how, from the daily life of women, is possible to generate processes of social fabric construction, sorority and empowerment that makes possible the recovery of memory, the contribution to peace and another way of building society, as an alternative to the armed violence that for many years affected the lives of women in our country. It gives anaccount of the experiences of women in the municipality of Sonsón (Antioquia) that, organized and mobilized through the Costurero Tejedoras por la Memoria of Sonsón, have made of the Costurero, a reference for the construction of peace and empowerment leading to processes of social reconciliation. This research is within the framework of the degree work carried out by Ana María Sossa Londoño and directed by Marcela Vergara Arias in the Master’s Degree in Development at the Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana in Medellín. Keywords: sorority, memory, knitting, community networks, women.