On cross-waves

1970 ◽  
Vol 41 (4) ◽  
pp. 837-849 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. J. R. Garrett

Cross-waves are standing waves with crests at right angles to a wave-maker. They generally have half the frequency of the wave-maker and reach a steady state at some finite amplitude. A second-order theory of the modes of oscillation of water in a tank with a free surface and wave-makers at each end leads to a form of Mathieu's equation for the amplitude of the cross-waves, which are thus an example of parametric resonance and may be excited at half the wave-maker frequency if this is within a narrow band. The excitation depends on the amplitude of the wave-maker at the surface and the integral over depth of its amplitude. Cross-waves may be excited even if the mean free surface is stationary. The effects of finite amplitude are that the cross-waves approach a steady state such that a given amplitude is achieved at a frequency greater than that for free waves by an amount proportional to the amplitude of the wave-maker. The theory agrees reasonably well with the experimental results of Lin & Howard (1960). The amplification of the cross-waves may be understood in terms of the rate of working of the wave-maker against transverse stresses associated with the cross-waves, one located at the surface and the other equal to Miche's (1944) depth-independent second-order pressure. The theory applies to the situation where the primary motion consists of standing waves and the cross-waves are constant in amplitude away from the wave-maker, but certain generalizations may be made to the situation where the primary waves are progressive and the cross-waves decay away from the wave-maker.

2019 ◽  
Vol 869 ◽  
pp. 439-467 ◽  
Author(s):  
Meng Shen ◽  
Yuming Liu

We theoretically investigate the problem of subharmonic resonant interaction of a progressive (axially symmetric) ring wave with a radial cross-wave in the context of the potential-flow formulation for gravity-capillary waves. The objective is to understand the nonlinear mechanism governing energy transfer from a progressive ring wave to its subharmonic cross-waves through triadic resonant interactions. We first show that for an arbitrary three-dimensional body floating in an unbounded free surface, there exists a set of homogeneous solutions at any frequency in the gravity-capillary wave context. The homogeneous solution depends solely on the mean free-surface slope at the waterline of the body and physically represents a progressive radial cross-wave. Unlike standing cross-waves, a progressive cross-wave loses energy during propagation by overcoming the work done by surface tension at the waterline and through wave radiation. We then consider the subharmonic interaction of a progressive ring wave, which is forced by a radial swelling–contraction deformation of a vertical circular cylinder, with subharmonic cross-waves. We derive the nonlinear spatial–temporal evolution equation governing the motion of the cross-wave by use of the average Lagrangian method. In addition to energy-input terms from the interaction with the forced ring wave, the evolution equation contains a damping term associated with energy loss in cross-wave propagation. We show that the presence of the damping term leads to a non-trivial threshold value of the ring wave steepness (or amplitude) beyond which the cross-wave becomes unstable and grows with time by taking energy from the ring wave. Finally, we extend this analysis to the experimental case of Tatsuno et al. (Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu University, vol. 17, 1969, pp. 195–215) in which asymmetric wave patterns are observed during high-frequency vertical oscillations of a surface-piercing sphere. The theoretical prediction of the threshold value of oscillation amplitude and characteristic features of generated radial cross-waves agrees reasonably well with experimental observations.


1984 ◽  
Vol 28 (01) ◽  
pp. 55-64
Author(s):  
Colen Kennell ◽  
Allen Plotkin

This research addresses the potential flow about a thin two-dimensional hydrofoil moving with constant velocity at a fixed depth beneath a free surface. The thickness-to-chord ratio of the hydrofoil and disturbances to the free stream are assumed to be small. These small perturbation assumptions are used to produce first-and second-order subproblems structured to provide consistent approximations to boundary conditions on the body and the free surface. Nonlinear corrections to the free-surface boundary condition are included at second order. Each subproblem is solved by a distribution of sources and vortices on the chord line and doublets on the free surface. After analytic determination of source and doublet strengths, a singular integral equation for the vortex strength is derived. This integral equation is reduced to a Fredholm integral equation which is solved numerically. Lift, wave drag, and free-surface shape are calculated for a flat plate and a Joukowski hydrofoil. The importance of free-surface effects relative to body effects is examined by a parametric variation of Froude number and depth of submergence.


1970 ◽  
Vol 14 (01) ◽  
pp. 23-50
Author(s):  
Young H. Chey

Because of the recognized inadequacy of first-order linearized surface-wave theory, the author has developed, for a three-dimensional body, a new second-order theory which provides a better description of free-surface phenomena. The new theory more accurately satisfies the kinematic boundary condition on the solid wall, and takes into account the nonlinearity of the condition at the free surface. The author applies the new theory to a submerged spheroid, to calculate wave resistance. Experiments were conducted to verify the theory, and their results are compared with the theoretical results. The comparison indicates that the use of the new theory leads to more accurate prediction of wave resistance.


1969 ◽  
Vol 38 (2) ◽  
pp. 415-432 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nils Salvesen

The importance of non-linear free-surface effects on potential flow past two-dimensional submerged bodies is investigated by the use of higher-order perturbation theory. A consistent second-order solution for general body shapes is derived. A comparison between experimental data and theory is presented for the free-surface waves and for the wave resistance of a foil-shaped body. The agreement is good in general for the second-order theory, while the linear theory is shown to be inadequate for predicting the wave drag at the relatively small submergence treated here. It is also shown, by including the third-order freesurface effects, how the solution to the general wave theory breaks down at low speeds.


1977 ◽  
Vol 81 (2) ◽  
pp. 241-256 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Y. Sorrell ◽  
G. V. Sturm

Results of experiments on capillary-wave decay and energy transfer to mean currents are presented. The conditions investigated were those of a progressive wave train propagating on still water, on a constant current and on a spatially varying current. The waves were generated by either a mechanical or a pneumatic wave maker and the wave maker usually excited cross-wave motion. Thus the study also provides data on cross-wave generation and growth under these conditions. In particular these results indicate that the cross-waves obtain energy from a constant current as well as a spatially varying current. The progressive-wave energy was separated from that in the cross-waves by spatial averaging. When this is done the wave-current interaction and wave decay can be described by a first-order theory which includes viscous dissipation.


Author(s):  
Balázs Tóth

A three-dimensional weakly compressible Smoothed ParticleHydrodynamics (SPH) solver is presented and applied tosimulate free-surface solitary waves generated in a quasi twodimensionaldam-break experiment. Test cases are constructedbased on the measurement layouts of a dam-break experiment.The simulated wave propagation speeds are compared to theexact solutions of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation as afirst order theory, and to a second order iterative approximationinvestigated in the literature. Free surface shapes of differentsimulation cases are investigated as well. The results show goodagreement with the free surface shapes of the KdV equation aswell as with the second order approximation of solitary wavepropagation speeds.


Author(s):  
Mark L. McAllister ◽  
Thomas A. A. Adcock ◽  
Ton S. van den Bremer ◽  
Paul H. Taylor

Recent work by McAllister et al. (2018) [1] has experimentally confirmed that the set-down of the wave-averaged free surface, first described by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1962) [2], can turn into a set-up when wave groups are sufficiently spread or cross at large angles. Experimental results were shown to agree well with second-order theory, including frequency-sum and frequency-difference terms, where the latter are responsible for the wave-averaged free surface. In this paper, we review these experimental results and examine theoretically the magnitude of the wave-averaged free surface in realistic extreme North Sea conditions. Specifically, we examine the role of the shape of the spectrum, water depth, and the relative magnitude of the peak frequencies of the two crossing groups. We find that having a realistic spectrum (JONSWAP vs. Gaussian) considerably enhances the magnitude of the second-order contribution, the total second-order signal increases with decreasing depth and can display a maximum provided the water depth is shallow enough for small to moderate degrees of spreading or crossing angles and is larger for spectral peaks that are further apart.


1968 ◽  
Vol 12 (04) ◽  
pp. 313-327
Author(s):  
Choung Mook Lee

A second-order potential solution is sought for a two-dimensional symmetric cylinder placed horizontally in a free surface and forced to oscillate vertically. The forced motion is simple harmonic, and the amplitude is small compared to the beam of the cylinder. The resulting potential-theory problem is solved by placing singularities of all orders at the intersection of the water surface at rest with the vertical axis of symmetry, and by determining their strengths from the boundary condition on the body. The pressure distribution on the cylinder, the force acting upon it, and the waves generated by it are derived through the second order. Numerical computations are made for a circular cylinder and for a U-shaped cylinder, and the results are presented in graphs.


1976 ◽  
Vol 74 (4) ◽  
pp. 741-765 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. E. Goldstein ◽  
H. Atassi

In this paper we develop a uniformly valid, second-order theory for calculating the unsteady incompressible flow that occurs when an airfoil is subjected to a convected sinusoidal gust. Explicit formulae for the airfoil response functions (i.e. fluctuating lift) are given. The theory accounts for the effect of the distortion of the gust by the steady-state potential flow around the airfoil, and this effect is found to have an important influence on the response functions. A number of results relevant to the general theory of the scattering of vorticity waves by solid objects are also presented.


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