Scenarios of nonlinear wave transformation in the coastal zone

Oceanology ◽  
2013 ◽  
Vol 53 (4) ◽  
pp. 422-431 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ya. V. Saprykina ◽  
S. Yu. Kuznetsov ◽  
N. K. Andreeva ◽  
M. N. Shtremel
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Wave Transformation

Wave Breaking Type as a Typical Sign of Nonlinear Wave Transformation Stage in Coastal Zone

2020 ◽  
Vol 28 (1) ◽  
pp. 75-82
Author(s):  
Ya. V. Saprykina ◽  
S. Yu. Kuznetsov ◽  
O. A. Kuznetsova ◽  
I. V. Shugan ◽  
Yang-Yih Chen
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Typical Sign ◽  
Transformation Stage

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

scholarly journals PARAMETERIZATION OF EVOLUTION OF BIPHASE DURING NONLINEAR TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE

2017 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Margarita Shtremel
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Phase Shift ◽  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Energy Exchange ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Empirical Relation ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
Sloping Bottom

Based on experimental data, the problem of parametrization of spatial variation of the phase shift (biphase) between the first and second nonlinear harmonics of wave motion during wave transformation over sloping bottom in the coastal zone is discussed. It is revealed that the biphase values vary in the range [–π/2, π/2]. Biphase variations rigorously follow fluctuations in amplitudes of the first and second harmonics and the periodicity of energy exchange between them. The empirical relation applied in modern practice to calculate the biphase, which depends on the Ursell number, is incorrect for calculating the biphase for wave evolution in the coastal zone, because it does not take into account periodic energy exchange between the nonlinear harmonics. The new approximations of the biphase values for typical scenarios of wave transformations are suggested. It was demonstrated that the biphase of breaking waves defines breaking index and breaking type.

scholarly journals Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (s1) ◽  
pp. 44-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qian-lu Xiao ◽  
Chun-hui Li ◽  
Xiao-yan Fu ◽  
Mei-ju Wang
Keyword(s):  
Dispersion Relation ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Dispersion ◽  
Structure Design ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.

scholarly journals SECONDARY WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE: PHYSICAL MECHANISMS OF FORMATION AND POSSIBLE APPLICATION FOR COASTAL PROTECTION

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 12 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Secondary Wave ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Physical Mechanisms ◽  
Advantages And Disadvantages ◽  
Floating Breakwater ◽  
Mechanisms Of Formation ◽  
Underwater Structures

The formation of secondary wave in a coastal zone was investigated on the base of field, laboratory and numerical experiments. It was found that formation of secondary waves is essentially part of weakly nonlinear-dispersive wave transformation and determined by a periodic exchange of energy between the first and second harmonics. The formation of secondary waves depends on a stage of wave transformation and defined by amplitude of secondary harmonic and by phase shift between first and second harmonics. On the base of numerical modeling and laboratory experiments an idea of combination of underwater structures with floating breakwater is investigated. Waves propagating above submerged bar generate secondary waves that decrease the mean period of waves. Each additional bar reinforces and stabilizes this effect. Behind the bars the floating breakwater can be applied, because it suppresses successfully only short waves. Advantages and disadvantages of this idea are discussed.

scholarly journals The Method for Evaluating Cross-Shore Migration of Sand Bar under the Influence of Nonlinear Waves Transformation

Water ◽  
2022 ◽  
Vol 14 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Margarita Shtremel ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Berna Ayat
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Maximum Amplitude ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Sandy Bottom ◽  
Divergence Point ◽  
Sand Bar ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Second Wave

Sand bar migration on the gently sloping sandy bottom in the coastal zone as a result of nonlinear wave transformation and corresponding sediment transport is discussed. Wave transformation on the intermediate depth causes periodic exchange of energy in space between the first and the second wave harmonics, accompanied by changes in the wave profile asymmetry. This leads to the occurrence of periodical fluctuations in the wave-induced sediment transport. It is shown that the position of the second nonlinear wave harmonic maximum determines location of the divergence point of sediment transport on the inclined bottom profile, where it changes direction from the onshore to the offshore. Such sediment transport pattern leads to formation of an underwater sand bar. A method is proposed to predict the position of the bar on an underwater slope after a storm based on calculation of the position of the maximum amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic. The method is validated on the base of field measurements and ERA 5 reanalysis wave data.

A Physical Model of Wind Waves in the Coastal Zone

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Natalia Andreeva ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Zhivelina Cherneva ◽  
C. Guedes Soares
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Coastal Zone ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Free Surface Elevation ◽  
Space And Time ◽  
Initial Stage ◽  
Instantaneous Values ◽  
The Waves

The variability of the amplitude-frequency structure of wind waves in space and time during their transformation in the coastal zone are considered. Wave time series, measured synchronously in 15 points along the wave propagation, obtained at field and laboratory experiments, were used for the analysis. Free surface elevation time series were represented as a sum of first and second harmonics with amplitudes slowly varying in time (or envelopes of the waves of corresponding frequency bands). Relative changes of these amplitudes in space and time were studied also. It was revealed, that at the initial stage of the wave transformation, the changes of amplitudes of the first and the second harmonics are similar and amplitudes of the second harmonics are proportional to the squared amplitudes of the first harmonics. At this stage the variability of parameters of individual irregular waves can be explained by Stokes theory. Nearer to the coast the instantaneous values of the amplitudes of the first and the second harmonics varies in time chaotically and is not possible to construct a simple model of the variability of the parameters of individual irregular waves. The main reason for this effect is the backward energy transfer from the second to the first harmonics of the waves during nearly resonant non-linear triad interactions.

scholarly journals Meanders and Eddies from Topographic Transformation of Coastal-Trapped Waves

2014 ◽  
Vol 44 (4) ◽  
pp. 1133-1150 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. T. Rodney ◽  
E. R. Johnson
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Local Geometry ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Coastal Trapped Waves ◽  
Wkbj Method ◽  
Shelf Slope ◽  
Coastal Trapped Wave

Abstract This paper describes how topographic variations can transform a small-amplitude, linear, coastal-trapped wave (CTW) into a nonlinear wave or an eddy train. The dispersion relation for CTWs depends on the slope of the shelf. Provided the cross-shelf slope varies sufficiently slowly along the shelf, the local structure of the CTW adapts to the local geometry and the wave transformation can be analyzed by the Wentzel–Kramers–Brillouin–Jeffreys (WKBJ) method. Two regions of parameter space are straightforward: adiabatic transmission (where, at the incident wave frequency, a long wave exists everywhere along the shelf) and short-wave reflection (where somewhere on the shelf no long wave exists at the incident frequency, but the stratification is sufficiently weak that a short reflected wave can coexist with the incident wave). This paper gives the solutions for these two cases but concentrates on a third parameter regime, which includes all sufficiently strongly stratified flows, where neither of these behaviors is possible and the WKBJ method fails irrespective of how slowly the topography changes. Fully nonlinear integrations of the equation for the advection of the bottom boundary potential vorticity show that the incident wave in this third parameter regime transforms into a nonlinear wave when topographic variations are gradual or into an eddy train when the changes are abrupt.

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