Hindcasting Hurricane Waves in the Gulf of Mexico

1972 ◽  
Vol 12 (04) ◽  
pp. 321-328 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. M. Patterson

Abstract An estimate of wave heights is needed for risk and venture analysis, for platform design, and for operational planning. Very little reliable data on hurricane waves have been available for a number of years. The present hindcast system uses a moving, two-dimensional wind field to generates and propagate waves to a location of interest. The propagate waves to a location of interest. The wind-wave model is based on work reported in the literature by Wilson. Wave Program I uses a synoptic wind field based on measurements or observations. Wave Program II generates its own wind field based on the track, the time history of the radius to maximum Winds, and the barometric pressure of the storm. Wave Program III also pressure of the storm. Wave Program III also generates its own wind fields, but the storm is moved along a predetermined path. The results of all three hindcast methods have been compared with data gathered from Hurricane Carla. Other hurricanes have also been studied and each of the programs gives comparable results. programs gives comparable results Introduction The most critical environmental factor in deepwater platform design is the selection of wave heights to which the platform will be subjected. Regardless of the design theory, wave loading contributes a major portion of the environmental force on a deep-water platform. To date there has been little sound historical evidence of the magnitude of wave heights that could occur in the Gulf of Mexico. To overcome this problem the offshore oil industry has sought an answer by two related methods. The first method consists of several measuring programs to gather both wave force and wave height information. Since reliable measuring techniques have existed for only a short time, the second method consists of developing techniques to predict historical waves that probably occurred in the Gulf of Mexico. The purpose of this paper is to document Shell's efforts in hindcasting paper is to document Shell's efforts in hindcasting waves for hurricanes that have passed through the Gulf since 1900. In order to hindcast waves, it was necessary to find a mathematical simulation model that would generate waves from a moving wind field. Such wind fields may be taken from synoptic charts or developed from empirical equations based on hurricane data such as radius to maximum winds, central pressure, and forward speed. WAVES FROM A MOVING WIND FIELDTHE BASIC WILSON MODEL Wilson, a consultant in the field of oceanography, has developed a mathematical model that would generate and propagate waves based on a moving wind field. We shall discuss the basic equations for this technique, but shall not go into detail concerning how the equations were developed. INITIATION OF THE WAVE The first wave height generated by a moving wind field can be calculated from Eq. 1 below (1) H1 = 0 .0636U In the above equation Ui is the wind vector in the direction of propagation at time zero and location (x1) where the wave is to start. The distance x1 over which the wave will move is described in Eq. 2. (2) =  0 .761 x1 is the distance the wave travels in nautical miles before it is to be modified by another value of wind velocity. The celerity is defined by Eq. 3. (3) C1  =  2 .498 Finally, the period and wave length of this initial wave are described below. (4) T1  =  C1/3 (5)1 2L1  =  5 .12T SPEJ P. 321

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (3) ◽  
pp. 217 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shih-Chun Hsiao ◽  
Hongey Chen ◽  
Han-Lun Wu ◽  
Wei-Bo Chen ◽  
Chih-Hsin Chang ◽  
...  

Super Typhoon Nepartak (2016) was used for this case study because it is the most intense typhoon that made landfall in Taiwan in the past decade. Winds extracted from the Climate Forecast System version 2 (CFSV2) and ERA5 datasets and merged with a parametric typhoon model using two hybrid techniques served as the meteorological conditions for driving a coupled wave-circulation model. The computed significant wave heights were compared with the observations recorded at three wave buoys in the eastern waters of Taiwan. Model performance in terms of significant wave height was also investigated by employing the CFSV2 winds under varying spatial and temporal resolutions. The results of the numerical experiments reveal that the simulated storm wave heights tended to decrease significantly due to the lower spatial resolution of the hourly winds from the CFSV2 dataset; however, the variations in the storm wave height simulations were less sensitive to the temporal resolution of the wind field. Introducing the combination of the CFSV2 and the parametric typhoon winds greatly improved the storm wave simulations, and similar phenomena can be found in the exploitation of the ERA5 dataset blended into the parametric wind field. The overall performance of the hybrid winds derived from ERA5 was better than that from the CFSV2, especially in the outer region of Super Typhoon Nepartak (2016).


Ocean Science ◽  
2012 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 287-300 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Soomere ◽  
R. Weisse ◽  
A. Behrens

Abstract. The basic features of the wave climate in the Southwestern Baltic Sea (such as the average and typical wave conditions, frequency of occurrence of different wave parameters, variations in wave heights from weekly to decadal scales) are established based on waverider measurements at the Darss Sill in 1991–2010. The measured climate is compared with two numerical simulations with the WAM wave model driven by downscaled reanalysis of wind fields for 1958–2002 and by adjusted geostrophic winds for 1970–2007. The wave climate in this region is typical for semi-enclosed basins of the Baltic Sea. The maximum wave heights are about half of those in the Baltic Proper. The maximum recorded significant wave height HS =4.46 m occurred on 3 November 1995. The wave height exhibits no long-term trend but reveals modest interannual (about 12 % of the long-term mean of 0.76 m) and substantial seasonal variation. The wave periods are mostly concentrated in a narrow range of 2.6–4 s. Their distribution is almost constant over decades. The role of remote swell is very small.


Author(s):  
George Z. Forristall ◽  
Jason McConochie

A wealth of Gulf of Mexico hurricane wind and wave data has been measured in recent years. We have constructed a database that combines HURDAT storm track information with NDBC buoy data for the years 1978–2010. HURDAT contains 141 storms for that period of which 67 had measured significant wave heights greater than 5 m. Industry measurements in Hurricanes Camille, Lili, Ivan, Katrina, Rita, Gustav and Ike have been added to the buoy data. We have used this data base to study the relationships between wind and wave parameters in hurricanes. Specifically, we have calculated regressions and equal probability contours for significant wave height and peak spectral periods, first and second moment periods, wave height and Jonswap gamma values, wind speeds and wave heights, and wave and wind directions. All of these calculations have been done for azimuthal quadrants of the storm and radial distances near and far from the storm center.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ioannis Cheliotis ◽  
Elsa Dieudonné ◽  
Hervé Delbarre ◽  
Anton Sokolov ◽  
Egor Dmitriev ◽  
...  

<p>Pulsed Doppler wind lidars (PDWL) have been extensively used in order to study the atmospheric turbulence. Their ability to scan large areas in a short period of time is a substantial advantage over in-situ measurements. Furthermore, PDWL are capable to scan horizontally as well as vertically thus providing observations throughout the atmospheric boundary layer (ABL). By analysing PDWL observations it is possible to identify large turbulent structures in the ABL such as thermals, rolls and streaks. Even though several studies have been carried out to analyse such turbulent structures, these studies examine peculiar cases spanning over short periods of time.</p><p>For this study we analysed the turbulent structures (thermals, rolls, streaks) over Paris during a two-months period (4 September – 6 October 2014, VEGILOT campaign) observed with a PDWL installed on a 70 m tower in Paris city centre. The turbulent radial wind field was reconstructed from the radial wind field of the horizontal surface scans (1° elevation angle) by using the velocity azimuth display method. The VEGILOT campaign provided 4577 horizontal surface scans, hence for the classification of the turbulent structures we developed an automatic method based on texture analysis and machine learning of the turbulent radial wind fields. Thirty characteristic cases of each turbulent structure types were selected at the learning step after an extensive examination of the meteorological parameters. Rolls cases were selected at the same time that cloud streets were visible on satellite images, streaks cases were selected during high wind shear development near the surface and thermals case were selected when solar radiation measurements in the area were high. In addition, sixty cases of “others”, representing any other type of turbulence, were added to the training ensemble. The analysis of errors estimated by the cross-validation shows that the K-nearest neighbours’ algorithm was able to classify accurately 96.3% of these 150 cases. Subsequently the algorithm was applied to the whole dataset of 4577 scans. The results show 52% of the scans classified as containing turbulent structures with 33% being coherent turbulent structures (22% streaks, 11% rolls).</p><p>Based on this classification, the physical parameters associated with the different types of turbulent structures were determined, e.g. structure size, ABL height, synoptic wind speed, vertical wind speed. Range height indicator and line of sight scans provided vertical observations that illustrate the presence of vertical motions during the observation of turbulent structures. The structure sizes were retrieved from the spectral analysis in the transverse direction relative to the synoptic wind, and are in agreement with the commonly observed sizes (a few 100 m for streaks, a few km for rolls).</p>


Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (7) ◽  
pp. 926 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chih-Hsin Chang ◽  
Hung-Ju Shih ◽  
Wei-Bo Chen ◽  
Wen-Ray Su ◽  
Lee-Yaw Lin ◽  
...  

In Taiwan, the coastal hazard from typhoon-induced storm waves poses a greater threat to human life and infrastructure than storm surges. Therefore, there has been increased interest in assessing the storm wave hazard levels for the nearshore waters of Taiwan. This study hindcasted the significant wave heights (SWHs) of 124 historical typhoon events from 1978 to 2017 using a fully coupled model and hybrid wind fields (a combination of the parametric typhoon model and reanalysis products). The maximum SWHs of each typhoon category were extracted to create individual storm wave hazard maps for the sea areas of the coastal zones (SACZs) in Taiwan. Each map was classified into five hazard levels (I to V) and used to generate a comprehensive storm wave hazard map. The results demonstrate that the northern and eastern nearshore waters of Taiwan are threatened by a hazard level IV (SWHs ranging from 9.0 to 12.0 m) over a SACZ of 510.0 km2 and a hazard level V (SWHs exceeding 12.0 m) over a SACZ of 2152.3 km2. The SACZs threatened by hazard levels I (SWHs less than 3.0 m), II (SWHs ranging from 3.0 to 6.0 m), and III (SWHs ranging from 6.0–9.0 m) are of 1045.2 km2, 1793.9 km2, and 616.1 km2, respectively, and are located in the western waters of Taiwan.


2021 ◽  
Vol 57 ◽  
pp. 193-206
Author(s):  
Simon K. Haslett ◽  
Bernardine Wong

A high-magnitude coastal flood event catastrophically affected the macrotidal Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary in southwest Great Britain, United Kingdom, on 30th January 1607 causing an estimated 2000 fatalities. Historical and physical evidence has provided a basis for the development of a theory that the flood may have been due to a tsunami rather than a storm. Previous studies have collected field data to test this hypothesis including a dataset of 136 wave-transported boulder clasts that was utilised to estimate minimum wave heights through hydrodynamic equations in 2007, but the dataset has hitherto remained unpublished in full. Since 2007 these equations have undergone refinement and for this paper minimum wave heights were recalculated from boulder measurements using revised hydrodynamic equations and presents the complete dataset for the first time. A recent study claiming that such equations are flawed is considered premature, given ongoing refinements to the equations. The results of the present study indicate that a tsunami 4.2 m high can explain the dislodgement of all boulders measured, equivalent to a storm wave height of 16.9 m, which is considerably greater than observed storm wave heights in the region. An up-channel increase in minimum wave height is also suggested by these data, generally corroborating the 2007 study, which may be due to wave amplification caused by the overall funnel-shape of the embayment. The areas worst affected by the 1607 flood are located in the coastal lowlands of the inner Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary, coinciding with the highest minimum estimated wave heights.


2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qing Shi ◽  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen ◽  
Yuxiang Ma

Abstract. The typhoon waves generated in the China Sea during the Chan-hom (1509), Linfa (1510) and Nangka (1511) typhoons that occurred in 2015 were numerically investigated. The wave model was based on the a third generation spectral wind-wave model SWAN, in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the ERA-interim (ECMWF), CFSv2 (The NCEP Climate Forecast System Version 2) and CCMP (Cross-Calibrated Multi-Platform) datasets. The numerical results were validated using buoy data and satellite observation data. The simulation results under the three types of wind fields were in good agreement with the observed data. The CCMP wind data was the best in simulating waves overall, and the wind speeds pertaining to ERA and CCMP were notably smaller than those observed near the typhoon centre. The Holland wind model was used to revise and optimize the wind speed pertaining to the CCMP near the typhoon centre, and the wind speed correction coefficient, correction formula and corresponding parameters were determined. Based on these findings, the CCMP and CCMP/Holland blended wind fields were used to simulate the typhoon waves generated during the Meranti (1614), Rai (1615) and Malakas (1616) typhoons that occurred in September 2016. A comparison between the simulated wave heights and those obtained from the Jason-2 altimeter data indicated that all correlation coefficients between the simulated values and the satellite observations were greater than 0.75. The blended wind field was better overall in simulating the wave heights. The simulated maximum wave heights were more similar to the satellite observations, and the root mean square error of the blended wind field was 0.223 m lower than that of the CCMP. The results demonstrated that the CCMP wind-driven SWAN model could appropriately simulate the typhoon waves generated by three typhoons in China Sea, and the use of the CCMP/Holland blended wind field could effectively improve the accuracy of typhoon wave simulations.


2017 ◽  
Vol 17 (8) ◽  
pp. 1305-1317 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elena Ojeda ◽  
Christian M. Appendini ◽  
E. Tonatiuh Mendoza

Abstract. Thirty-year time series of hindcast wave data were analysed for 10 coastal locations along the eastern Mexican coast to obtain information about storm events occurring in the region, with the goal of examining the possible presence of interannual trends in the number of storm-wave events and their main features (wave height, duration and energy content). The storms were defined according to their significant wave height and duration, and the events were classified as related to either tropical cyclones or Norte events. The occurrence and characteristics of both types of events were analysed independently. There is no statistically significant change in the number of storm-wave events related to Nortes or their characteristics during the study period. However, there is a subtle increase in the number of events related to tropical cyclones in the western Caribbean region and a more evident increase in wave height and energy content of these events.


1967 ◽  
Vol 7 (03) ◽  
pp. 273-282
Author(s):  
N.F. Leblanc

Abstract Described in this paper are oceanographic data which should be considered by an offshore design engineer and methods for developing a design wave height from the oceanographic data. The selection of a design wave is predicated on contemplated waves which might affect the site throughout the life of the structure. Selection of a design wave height may be based onarbitrarily established recurrence frequencies of hurricanes affecting the structure (predicted wave heights are associated with the expected variations of forces resulting from these waves) anda risk-type evaluation wherein all possible storms affecting the area are considered (anticipated wave heights are associated with both investment plus risk costs and expected variations of forces). It is shown how the following oceanographic predictions are integrated into design considerations:a classification of storm intensity which considers all recorded storms which affected the design area,the recurrence interval of storms of a given intensity (this interval is dependent on the extent of the geographical area considered in the design problem) anda forecast of all wave heights which might affect the area (geometry of a structure often necessitates consideration of waves from a multiplicity of directions). The authors believe that the described techniques can result in selecting an adequate and reasonable design wave. Introduction Since the inception of offshore operations in the Gulf of Mexico, engineers engaged in designing structural facilities have been plagued with the problem of selecting an adequate and reasonable design wave. In the development of any offshore structure it is mandatory that the engineer evaluate the ability of the structure to withstand the ocean waves to which it will be subjected. Selecting such design waves quite naturally necessitates a coalition of the oceanographer and the design engineer. The oceanographer must provide a detailed knowledge of scientific principles which govern the behavior of waters in the Gulf of Mexico. He should also have an adequate knowledge of the manner in which design waves are utilized by the engineer. Although the design engineer's primary responsibility is applying the oceanographer's specialized knowledge in the creation of real structures, it is important that he possess some knowledge of related oceanographic principles to reasonably evaluate and apply the recommendations of the oceanographer. In the Gulf of Mexico it is the hurricane wind waves which generally govern the design of an offshore facility. The oceanographer must therefore develop techniques for predicting the heights, periods and frequency of all hurricane waves which might affect a particular structure. From this mass of oceanographic data, the design engineer must select the design waves which will apply to his particular design. Past Studies on Frequency and Amplitude of Hurricane Wind Waves Past oceanographic studies on the frequency of hurricane wave heights in the Gulf of Mexico have been devoted largely to predicting the recurrence interval of hurricanes which will generate maximum significant waves of given heights. The maximum significant wave height is the average height of the highest one third of the waves in that portion of the storm producing maximum wave heights. Since these waves occur over a relatively small portion of the storm (Fig. 1) and since the paths of hurricanes vary considerably (Fig. 2), the recurrence frequency of such heights is largely a function of the extent of the geographical area considered.


2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elena Ojeda ◽  
Christian Mario Appendini ◽  
Ernesto Tonatiuh Mendoza

Abstract. Thirty-year time series of hindcast wave data were analysed for ten coastal locations along the eastern Mexican coast to obtain information about storm events occurring in the region, with the goal to examine the possible presence of interannual trends in the number of wave storm events and their main features (wave height, duration and energy content). The storms were defined according to their significant wave height and duration, and the events were classified as related to either tropical cyclones or Norte events. The occurrence and characteristics of both types of events were analysed independently. There is no statistically significant change in the number of wave storm events related to Nortes or their characteristics during the study period. However, there is a subtle increase in the number of events related to tropical cyclones in the western Caribbean region and a more evident increase in wave height and energy content of these events.


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