scholarly journals Ukrainian Traditional Embroidery in Clothes of the 50s of the Twentieth Century

2021 ◽  
Vol 4 (2) ◽  
pp. 236-243
Author(s):  
Anastasiia Varyvonchyk

The purpose of the article is to highlight fashion trends in clothing using traditional Ukrainian embroidery in the 50s of the twentieth century. The methodological foundations of the study are based on historical, art and cultural observations and analysis. Scientific novelty. The article examines historical sources, artifact finds, indicating the presence of embroidered ornamental elements in the decoration of the clothes of the Ukrainians of the indicated period. The manufacture of clothing, including embroidery, on the territory of Ukraine is associated with artisanal and industrial production. The article analyzes the state of embroidery using modern fashion trends in clothing of the 50s of the twentieth century. Conclusions. As a result of the analysis of the art of making clothes of Ukrainian fashion of the 50s. XX century, we can state that the creation of compositionally complete collections of clothes, including those developed using national traditions, was possible due to the unification of the creative efforts of various industries of light industry. Mainly, in the fashion of the 50s, there were cardinal changes in silhouettes and shapes, in accordance with the change in the ideal of beauty. Skirts, straight and flared, came into fashion, pleated skirts, dress-coats, coats, suits made of shaped, overcoat fabrics, which were decorated with metal, leather, wooden buttons, were introduced, taking into account folk ornamental traditions. New styles of dresses were created on a fitted basis with the use of a variety of embroidered ornaments: «roosters», «flowers», embroidered with «nets», «satin stitch», with elements of sewing fabrics along the entire product, etc. The implementation of thematic, original artful designs directed and coordinated the activities of the textile, clothing, knitwear industries. Elements of national clothing with common motives of traditional Ukrainian embroidery attracted special attention in the fashion of that time.

Author(s):  
Hillary Maxson

In the aftermath of World War II, many Japanese women felt impelled to exorcise “martial motherhood,” a stoic, tearless, child-sacrificing gender ideal constructed by the state throughout the early twentieth century. At the Mothers’ Congress of 1955, mothers from across the country gathered to reclaim motherhood from the state and began to redefine motherhood for themselves in the postwar era. This chapter argues that the Mothers’ Congress represented a moment of transition from the wartime concept of “motherhood in the interest of the state” to the postwar idea of motherhood in the interest of mothers. Furthermore, the influential power of the organizers of Japan’s Mothers’ Congress was fundamental in the creation of the 1955 World Congress of Mothers. This was the first instance in which Japanese women became international feminist leaders, and they did so through the language of matricentric feminism.


2018 ◽  
Vol 59 (3) ◽  
pp. 411-435 ◽  
Author(s):  
WAYNE DOOLING

AbstractCape Town's black population of the early twentieth century actively pursued lifestyles that might be described as respectable. But respectability was expensive, and poverty —characterised by poor housing, ill health and shortened lifespans — stood in the way of some of its most essential elements: cleanliness, sexual restraint, sobriety, and the creation of nuclear and gendered households. Black respectability, therefore, could not simply replicate that of the dominant white bourgeoisie. Most challenging was the development of rampant black criminality, often seen by contemporary observers as the result of the failure of black women to realise respectable households. Even attempts on the part of the state to create respectable citizenries floundered, partly because these initiatives were incompatible with the policies of racial segregation. The state and the dominant bourgeoisie put their faith in the black elite as the standard-bearers of respectability, but the reality was that the respectability of the ‘superior’ class was frequently indistinguishable from those below, a consequence of the fact that the boundary between these classes was highly porous.


Inner Asia ◽  
2007 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-22 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jigjid Boldbaatar ◽  
Caroline Humphrey

AbstractThe structure and composition of state symbols has evolved and changed through the various historical periods of Mongolian history. This article considers the creation and adoption of the state emblem, standard, flag and national anthem in the Constitution of Mongolia adopted in 1992. Particular attention is paid to the procedures whereby decisions were taken at this important juncture in twentieth-century Mongolian history.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (3) ◽  
Author(s):  
Igor Isaev ◽  
Arkady Kornev ◽  
Sergey Lipen ◽  
Sergey Zenin

This article explores the historical pattern of the evolution of power technologies. The methodological basis relies on the philosophical movements of the twentieth century (phenomenology, structuralism, etc.) and works by P. Bourdieu, C. Lefort, N. Luhmann, D. Naisbitt, P. Sloterdijk, M. Foucault, O. Spann, F. G. Jünger, N. Elias, and a number of other authors. The creation of technologies for managing society and complex power mechanisms (“power machines”) are a general pattern of social development. The notion of dynamic power balance acts as a mandatory attribute of the management of society and focuses political activity on the constant consideration of numerous phenomena, circumstances, and interests. The state, as the main instrument of political management, seeks to constantly strengthen its power both within and without, and to spread it ever more to new spheres of social relations and territories. But over time, first in the sphere of international law, universal principles are recognised that establish the limits of power and assume the impossibility of strengthening the power of any one state (the idea of political balance of sovereign national states). In domestic politics, the increasing degree of agreement and gradually developing mechanisms of consensus contribute to the reduction of the role played by direct violence and the emergence of a system of institutions that were perceived as legitimate. Previous spontaneous processes and collisions of opposing forces are translated into technical, organisational, normative language – and political dynamics – into static social structures. Chaos and uncertainty are replaced by ideas about the desired ideal and order. The new “power machine” also receives a new justification that is no longer transcendent, but rather rational and technological. Constantly improving and becoming more complex, the “power machine” becomes ever more effective. The “technical” regularities of the organisation and functioning of political power, which determine the new social role of the “power machine”, come to the fore. The state, which is organised into a mechanism with supreme political power and absolute authority, has a decisive influence on the development of society. The transition from a dynastic to a bureaucratic state depersonalises the “power machine”. The figure of a monarch with absolute power dissolves in the hierarchy of numerous officials vested with power. The organisation of power to a large extent separates carriers or subjects of power from their decisions. There is no visible mechanism of power and subordination and the opposite interests of the ruling and the governed. Further, in the twentieth-century industrial revolutions, the “power machine” is forced to adapt to new social realities, i. e. to “network” relations where communication and connections between people and their groups become fundamental. This leads to the creation of new management structures with a plurality of centres.


Author(s):  
Thomas K. Rudel

Cuba became the pre-eminent producer of sugarcane during the early twentieth century through the development of input-intensive, industrial sugarcane plantations. Pre-revolutionary and post-revolutionary plantations became extraordinarily reliant on imported inputs like chemical fertilizers to support high levels of production. Favorable trade deals with Soviet bloc countries assured Cubans of a market for their high-priced sugarcane. With the collapse of the Soviet bloc in the early 1990s, this market disappeared, and Cuba no longer had the foreign exchange it needed to purchase foodstuffs for Cuban citizens and chemical fertilizers for sugarcane plantations. Cuban citizens responded to the dearth of food through repeasantization. People began cultivating gardens in cities, and the state began to encourage the creation of small farms. Agro-ecological farming became the favored method of agricultural production because it did not require expensive, imported chemical inputs.


Slovene ◽  
2015 ◽  
Vol 4 (1) ◽  
pp. 493-506
Author(s):  
Elizaveta G. Sosnovtseva

The article studies the local practice of the cult of Prince Andrey Bolshoy in Uglich, where he ruled during the last third of the 15th century. This work is based on data from the chronicles, especially the Uglich Chronicle of the 18th century; this is the primary source used in this study, and the most detailed information appears in the latest full versions, which date to the second half of the 18th century. These chronicles have “moved” the key biographical events of the last years of Prince Andrey’s life (his arrest and funeral) from Moscow to Uglich, which differs from other historical sources. According to the hagiography of Uglich saints, Prince Andrey was buried in the Transfiguration Cathedral of the Uglich Kremlin, not in the Cathedral of the Archangel in Moscow. The cult of Prince Andrey was mentioned for the first time in hagiographic writings, not only for saints who were contemporaries of Prince Andrey (SS. Paisius and Cassian), but also for saints who lived later (Prince Roman of Uglich and Tsarevich Dmitry of Uglich). It was only later, in the 18th century, that the unique copy of the Life of Prince Andrey appeared. This source is now held in the State Historical Museum in Moscow. The article shows how the text of the Life is connected with other hagiographic texts relating to Uglich.


2015 ◽  
Vol 13 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mathews Mathew ◽  
Debbie Soon

Debates in Singapore about immigration and naturalisation policy have escalated substantially since 2008 when the government allowed an unprecedentedly large number of immigrants into the country. This essay will discuss immigration and naturalisation policy in Singapore and the tensions that have been evoked, and how these policies are a key tool in regulating the optimal composition and size of the population for the state’s imperatives. It will demonstrate that although the state has, as part of its broader economic and manpower planning policy to import labour for economic objectives, it seeks to retain only skilled labour with an exclusive form of citizenship.  Even as the Singapore state has made its form of citizenship even more exclusive by reducing the benefits that non-citizens receive, its programmes for naturalising those who make the cut to become citizens which include the recently created Singapore Citizenship Journey (SCJ) is by no means burdensome from a comparative perspective. This paper examines policy discourse and the key symbols and narratives provided at naturalisation events and demonstrates how these are used to evoke the sense of the ideal citizen among new Singaporeans. 


2019 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 21-31 ◽  
Author(s):  
Louis Brunet

This article proposes a model of individual violent radicalisation leading to acts of terrorism. After reviewing the role of group regression and the creation of group psychic apparatus, the article will examine how violent radicalisation, by the reversal of the importance of the superego and the ideal ego, serves to compensate the narcissistic identity suffering by “lone wolf” terrorists.


Romanticism ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 25 (2) ◽  
pp. 180-189
Author(s):  
Rolf Lessenich

Though treated marginally in histories of philosophy and criticism, Byron was deeply involved in Romantic-Period controversies. In that post-Enlightenment, science-orientated age, the Platonic-Romantic concept of inspiration as divine afflatus linking the prophet-priest-poet with the ideal world beyond was no longer tenable without an admixture of doubt that turned religion into myth. As a seriously-minded Romantic sceptic in the Pyrrhonian tradition and commuter between the genres of sensibility and satire, Byron often refers to the prophet-poet concept, acting it out in pre-Decadent poses of inspiration, yet undercutting it with his typical Romantic Irony. In contrast to Goethe, who insisted on an inspired poet's sanity, he saw inspiration both as a social distinction and as a pathological norm deviation. The more imaginative and poetical the creation, the more insane is the poet's mind; the more realistic and prosaic, the more compos it is, though an active poet is never quite sane in the sense of Coleridge's ‘depression’, meaning his non-visitation by his ‘shaping spirit of imagination’.


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