scholarly journals Predicted Responses of Beaches, Bays, and Inner-Shelf Sand Supplies to Potential Sea Level Rise (0.5-1.0 m) in Three Small Littoral Subcells in the High-Wave-Energy Northern Oregon Coast, USA

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (2) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Curt D. Peterson ◽  
Debra L. Doyle ◽  
Charles L. Rosenfeld ◽  
Kara E.P. Kingen

Three small subcells (Nehalem, Tillamook, and Netarts) totaling ~55 km shoreline length in the high-wave energy northern Oregon coast are evaluated for potential beach sand loss from sea level rise (SLR) of 0.5–1.0 m during the next century. The predicted erosion is based on beach sand displacement from the narrow beaches (average ~120 m width) to increased submarine accommodation spaces in the innermost-shelf (to 30 m water depth) and in the subcell estuaries (Tillamook Bay, Netarts Bay, and Nehalem Bay), following predicted near-future SLR. Beach sand sources from local rivers, paleo-shelf deposits, and/or sea cliff retreat are discriminated by distinctive heavy-mineral tracers. Modern beach sands in the study area are derived from river sand (~75 %) and paleo-shelf sand (~25 %). The supplies of paleo-shelf sand to the beaches have largely diminished in late-Holocene time. The river-enriched beach sands have been transported offshore to the inner-shelf (0–50 m water depth) to fill increasing accommodation space in the inner-shelf during latest-Holocene conditions of relative SLR (1.0 m ka-1). To evaluate the beach sand response to future SLR, representative beach profiles (n=17) and intervening beach segment distances were compiled to yield beach sand volumes above mean lower low water (MLLW) or shallower wave-cut platforms ‘bedrock’. Across-shore cross-sectional areas, as averaged for each subcell, are as follows; Cannon Beach (304 m2), Tillamook (683 m2), and Netarts (227 m2). Littoral sand displacements to the adjacent innermost-shelf (to 30 m water depth) and the marine-dominated areas of the three estuaries are based on assumed vertical sand accretion rates of 1.0 m per century and a conservative value of 0.5 m per century. The filling of such submarine accommodation spaces will displace all active-beach sand reserves in all three subcells for either the 1.0 m or 0.5 m thickness accommodation space scenarios. Large beach sand deficits, primarily from the filling of offshore accommodation spaces, could cause further retreat of soft-shorelines, including barrier spit and beach plain/dune deposits, in the Tillamook subcell (150-280 m) and in the southern half of the Netarts subcell (370-770 m). The accommodation space approach used to predict beach sand volume loss from future SLR should have broad applicability in complex littoral systems worldwide.

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 75 ◽  
Author(s):  
David G. Aubrey ◽  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Charles E. Nordstrom

Beach profiles have been measured at Torrey Pines Beach, California for four years and correlated with tides and accurate spectral estimates of the incident wave field. Characteristic equilibrium beach profiles persist for time spans of up to at least two weeks in response to periods of uniform incident waves. These changes in the beach profiles are primarily due to on-offshore sediment transport which can be related to variations in wave characteristics and tidal phase. The most rapid readjustment of the beach profile occurs during high wave energy conditions coincident with spring tides. Alternatively, the highest berm building is associated with moderate to low waves that coincide with spring tides.


1981 ◽  
Vol 1981 (1) ◽  
pp. 525-534 ◽  
Author(s):  
Erich R. Gundlach ◽  
Serge Berné ◽  
Laurent D'Ozouville ◽  
Jerry A. Topinka

ABSTRACT The latest in a series of joint Franco-American surveys of the Amoco Cadiz (233,000 tons; March 17, 1978) spill site was conducted during May and June 1980. The purposes of this survey were to determine remaining surface oil, buried oiled sediment, oil incorporation in interstitial water, and recovery of attached macroalgae. Oil was found to persist primarily as tar blotches and black staining along exposed rocky shores and as oil-contaminated (indicated by surface sheen), interstitial water in previously heavily oiled, sheltered tidal flats. Less commonly, oil was present as asphalted sediment and oil-coated rocks in sheltered embayments. The cleaned marsh at Ile Grande remained significantly damaged from the oil; however, both upper and lower marsh grasses showed some recovery. At another marsh, no recovery occurred in uncleaned, heavily oiled areas. On sheltered rocky shores, heavily oiled algae showed rapid recolonization by Fucus; however, Ascophyllum noaosum-dominated areas showed less recovery. The Tanio oil spill on March 7, 1980 (7,000 tons lost) impacted 45 percent of the Amoco Cadiz spill site and severely complicated further differentiation of Amoco Cadiz oil in many areas. In total, 197 kilometers (km) of shoreline were impacted; 45 km were heavily oiled. Nine weeks after initial impact, Tanio oil occurred as patches of heavy oil along sheltered and exposed, rocky shores. Sand beaches and tidal flats were generally free of oil. Several hundred soldiers continued to pressure spray dispersants and water to clean up oiled areas, even in high wave energy and isolated localities.


PLoS ONE ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 16 (2) ◽  
pp. e0247224
Author(s):  
Savannah Franklin Rey ◽  
Janet Franklin ◽  
Sergio J. Rey

We report microplastic densities on windward beaches of Oahu, Hawai`i, USA, an island that received about 6 million tourist visits a year. Microplastic densities, surveyed on six Oahu beaches, were highest on the beaches with the coarsest sands, associated with high wave energy. On those beaches, densities were very high (700–1700 particles m-2), as high as those recorded on other remote island beaches worldwide. Densities were higher at storm tide lines than high tide lines. Results from our study provide empirical data on the distribution of microplastics on the most populated and visited of the Hawaiian islands.


2019 ◽  
Vol 512 ◽  
pp. 51-62
Author(s):  
Sergio A. Navarrete ◽  
Mirtala Parragué ◽  
Nicole Osiadacz ◽  
Francisca Rojas ◽  
Jessica Bonicelli ◽  
...  

2020 ◽  
Vol 10 (7) ◽  
pp. 2227 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pasquale Contestabile ◽  
Gaetano Crispino ◽  
Sara Russo ◽  
Corrado Gisonni ◽  
Furio Cascetta ◽  
...  

The overtopping phenomenon at the rear side of breakwaters has particular importance in harbor protection. Undoubtedly, this topic needs to be taken even more seriously, considering the sea level rise. The present study focuses on the effectiveness in the reduction of the wave overtopping of a triangular parapet placed on the top of an innovative concrete superstructure. The last is part of the OBREC device (Overtopping BReakwater for wave Energy Conversion), an overtopping structure which is integrated into a traditional rubble-mound breakwater, to convert wave energy into electricity. Parametric laboratory tests, including the influence of water depth, have led to the evaluation of the accuracy of the main literature formulations and to the introduction of a new overtopping formula to take into account the influence of the parapet geometry. The results highlight the capability of the parapet in significantly increasing the hydraulic protection compared to a breakwater with a traditional crown wall. The findings from this work are expected to support in promoting and developing adaptive management strategies for existing coastal defenses and smart approaches in the construction and maintenance of new ones, with special reference to future sea-level-rise scenarios.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 100 ◽  
Author(s):  
Karen E. Clemens ◽  
Paul D. Komar

The study of sand mineralogy and grain rounding can help answer many questions of immediate concern to coastal engineers or to broader issues of beach preservation. The heavy-mineral contents of sands, together with statistical techniques such as factor analysis, can be used to delineate sediment sources, trace transport paths, and map out patterns of mixing during sediment dispersal. Variations in the degree of grain rounding can similarly be used to trace sand movements, or to obtain additional information concerning the history of the sediment particles. The techniques of studying sand mineralogies and grain rounding, and the types of problems they can address, are illustrated by research on the Oregon coast. Heavy mineral compositions of Oregon beach sands are the products of mixing contributions from four sources; the Columbia River on the north, the smaller rivers draining the Coast Range, the Umpqua River on the southern Oregon coast, and the Klamath Mountains of southern Oregon and northern California. Numerous headlands now prevent the longshore transport and mixing of sands from these multiple sources. The beach-sand compositions instead reflect along-coast mixing during Pleistocene lowered sea levels when blockage by headlands was absent. At that time there was a net littoral sand transport to the north, evident from the dispersal of Klamath-derived sands. With a rise in sea level and accompanying migrations of the beaches, headlands eventually interrupted the along-coast mixing of nearshore sands. Therefore, the north to south variation in compositions of beach sands is in part a relict pattern inherited from mixing during lowered sea levels. This has been modified during the past several thousand years by some additions of sand to the beaches from sea-cliff erosion and from rivers. However, studies of sediment mineralogy and grain rounding indicate that sands derived from most rivers draining the Coast Range are presently trapped in estuaries and so are not significant sources of beach sand. The Columbia River now supplies sand to Oregon beaches only to the first headland, Tillamook Head. At that headland there is a marked change in mineralogy and grain rounding with angular, recently supplied Columbia River sand to the north and rounded relict sand to the south.


Author(s):  
Hannah E. Power ◽  
Michael A. Kinsela ◽  
Caio E. Stringari ◽  
Murray J. Kendall ◽  
David J. Hanslow

Open ocean rocky shore platforms are typically exposed to high wave energy and are often the location of recreational activities from sightseeing and walking to fishing (Kennedy et al. 2017). The exposure of these environments, combined with the use for recreation, results in a high level of risk for those who use the rock platform. In Australia, for example, 19% of coastal fatalities occur on rock coasts, most commonly when individuals fall from microtidal semi-horizontal platforms into the ocean (SLSA, 2014a,b). Managing the hazards and resultant risk on rocky shore platforms requires a different approach to that taken for sandy beaches as the sites are typically remote. Here we explore the wave overwash hazards on a remote but high visitation rocky shore platform 40 km south of Sydney, Australia.


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