scholarly journals ASSESSING UNCERTAINTY IN THE MODELING OF RUNUP AND SWASH MORPHODYNAMICS USING XBEACH

Author(s):  
Jantien Rutten ◽  
Alec Torres Freyermuth ◽  
Jack Puleo

Phase-resolving numerical models are frequently used tools to investigate short and long wave transformation, nonlinear wave interactions, and wave runup. Moreover, nearshore morphodynamics can be explored with the recent advancement of the models and computational resources. Sea surface elevation time series that force phase-resolving models at the offshore boundary are often unavailable. Therefore, time series are usually recreated from wave energy-frequency spectra through the superposition of harmonics. The wave phases of the harmonics are unknown and therefore assumed to be randomly distributed. This implies that an infinite number of time series with different sequencing of waves can be recreated from a single wave-energy spectrum and, for that reason, recreated time series are a source of uncertainty in model predictions. This intrinsic uncertainty has been found to cause variability in wave overtopping of structures (e.g., Pearson et al, 2002; Williams et al., 2014; Romano et al., 2015) and in setup and runup at beaches (McCabe et al., 2011; Torres-Freyermuth et al., 2019). Torres-Freyermuth et al. (2019) investigated the effect of intrinsic uncertainty on runup at planar beaches for different wave conditions and beach slopes and suggested that uncertainty is especially important under dissipative conditions. Yet unknown is the effect of intrinsic uncertainty on bed evolution. Here we assess the effect of intrinsic uncertainty on inner surf and swash zone evolution at three beaches with different beach morphology.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/w3zi3Yoo170

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (12) ◽  
pp. 993
Author(s):  
Jonas Pinault ◽  
Denis Morichon ◽  
Volker Roeber

Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as R2% show relative errors of less than 6%. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash SIG is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.


Author(s):  
Andrew F. Davis ◽  
Jim Thomson ◽  
Tim R. Mundon ◽  
Brian C. Fabien

This paper illustrates an approach to the modeling of a point absorbing Wave Energy Converter (WEC) with the intent of analyzing the sensitivity of the system response to variation in the model parameters. Using first principles, the nonlinear equations of motion are formed to describe the heave motion of a 3 body system. A linearized model is developed and used to simulate the system in both the time and frequency domains. The input to the model is a time series displacement and a time series velocity that describes the incident waves. A sensitivity analysis is then performed on the system parameters to show how the characteristics of the heave plate, the component masses, and the mass of the entrained fluid affect the performance of the system. The model is validated by numerically modeling a generation 1 device produced by Oscilla Power Inc., which is compared against experimental data from a field test on Lake Washington. The WEC is designed to provide tension along a series of tethers with connected power take off units. The wave input is specified using frequency spectra measured with a nearby Datawell Waverider MK III buoy during the field testing, from which time domain waves are reconstructed.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (11) ◽  
pp. 2070
Author(s):  
Ana Basañez ◽  
Vicente Pérez-Muñuzuri

Wave energy resource assessment is crucial for the development of the marine renewable industry. High-frequency radars (HF radars) have been demonstrated to be a useful wave measuring tool. Therefore, in this work, we evaluated the accuracy of two CODAR Seasonde HF radars for describing the wave energy resource of two offshore areas in the west Galician coast, Spain (Vilán and Silleiro capes). The resulting wave characterization was used to estimate the electricity production of two wave energy converters. Results were validated against wave data from two buoys and two numerical models (SIMAR, (Marine Simulation) and WaveWatch III). The statistical validation revealed that the radar of Silleiro cape significantly overestimates the wave power, mainly due to a large overestimation of the wave energy period. The effect of the radars’ data loss during low wave energy periods on the mean wave energy is partially compensated with the overestimation of wave height and energy period. The theoretical electrical energy production of the wave energy converters was also affected by these differences. Energy period estimation was found to be highly conditioned to the unimodal interpretation of the wave spectrum, and it is expected that new releases of the radar software will be able to characterize different sea states independently.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 635
Author(s):  
Hyeok Jin ◽  
Kideok Do ◽  
Sungwon Shin ◽  
Daniel Cox

Coastal dunes are important morphological features for both ecosystems and coastal hazard mitigation. Because understanding and predicting dune erosion phenomena is very important, various numerical models have been developed to improve the accuracy. In the present study, a process-based model (XBeachX) was tested and calibrated to improve the accuracy of the simulation of dune erosion from a storm event by adjusting the coefficients in the model and comparing it with the large-scale experimental data. The breaker slope coefficient was calibrated to predict cross-shore wave transformation more accurately. To improve the prediction of the dune erosion profile, the coefficients related to skewness and asymmetry were adjusted. Moreover, the bermslope coefficient was calibrated to improve the simulation performance of the bermslope near the dune face. Model performance was assessed based on the model-data comparisons. The calibrated XBeachX successfully predicted wave transformation and dune erosion phenomena. In addition, the results obtained from other two similar experiments on dune erosion with the same calibrated set matched well with the observed wave and profile data. However, the prediction of underwater sand bar evolution remains a challenge.


2013 ◽  
Vol 569-570 ◽  
pp. 595-602 ◽  
Author(s):  
William Finnegan ◽  
Jamie Goggins

A vital aspect of ensuring the cost effectiveness of wave energy converters (WECs) is being able to monitor their performance remotely through structural health monitoring, as these devices are deployed in very harsh environments in terms of both accessibility and potential damage to the devices. The WECs are monitored through the use of measuring equipment, which is strategically placed on the device. This measured data is then compared to the output from a numerical model of the WEC under the same ocean wave conditions. Any deviations would suggest that there are problems or issues with the WEC. The development of accurate and effective numerical models is necessary to minimise the number of times the visual, or physical, inspection of a deployed WEC is required. In this paper, a numerical wave tank model is, first, validated by comparing the waves generated to those generated experimentally using the wave flume located at the National University of Ireland, Galway. This model is then extended so it is suitable for generating real ocean waves. A wave record observed at the Atlantic marine energy test site has been replicated in the model to a high level of accuracy. A rectangular floating prism is then introduced into the model in order to explore wave-structure interaction. The dynamic response of the structure is compared to a simple analytical solution and found to be in good agreement.


Author(s):  
Xiang Zhou ◽  
Mehdi Jafari ◽  
Ossama Abdelkhalik ◽  
Umesh A. Korde ◽  
Lucia Gauchia

This paper addresses the sizing problem of an energy storage system (ESS) while considering statistical tolerance for a two-body wave energy converter (WEC), which is designed to support ocean sensing applications with sustained power for long-term functioning. The power is extracted by assuming ideal power take-off (PTO) based upon historical ocean data record (significant wave height and period of wave swell) from Martha’s Vineyard Coastal Observatory. A gamma distribution is applied to generate the extracted power distribution of each sample in the time-series using Bayesian methodology. The means and standard deviation of the extracted power distributions compose the statistical annual power time-series. Finally, the required capacities for the ESS sizing are estimated and discussed while considering both ground truth values and statistical values.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 141
Author(s):  
Todd L. Walton ◽  
Philip L.F. Liu ◽  
Edward B. Hands

This paper examines the effects of random and deterministic cycling of wave direction on the updrift beach planform adjacent to a jetty. Results provided using a simplified numerical model cast in dimensionless form indicate the importance of the time series of wave direction in determining design jetty length for a given net sediment transport. Continuous cycling of • wave direction leads to the expected analytical solution. Simplications in the numerical model used restrict the applications to small wave angles, no diffraction, no reflection of waves off structure, no refraction, and no sand bypassing at jetty. The concept can be extended to more sophisticated numerical models.


2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (9) ◽  
pp. 1409
Author(s):  
Ewerton Silva ◽  
Ricardo da S. Torres ◽  
Bruna Alberton ◽  
Leonor Patricia C. Morellato ◽  
Thiago S. F. Silva

One of the challenges in remote phenology studies lies in how to efficiently manage large volumes of data obtained as long-term sequences of high-resolution images. A promising approach is known as image foveation, which is able to reduce the computational resources used (i.e., memory storage) in several applications. In this paper, we propose an image foveation approach towards plant phenology tracking where relevant changes within an image time series guide the creation of foveal models used to resample unseen images. By doing so, images are taken to a space-variant domain where regions vary in resolution according to their contextual relevance for the application. We performed our validation on a dataset of vegetation image sequences previously used in plant phenology studies.


2012 ◽  
Vol 86 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Lorenzo De Vittori ◽  
Philippe Jetzer ◽  
Antoine Klein

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