scholarly journals Fashion, Industry and Diplomacy: Reframing Couture–Textile Relations in France, 1950s–1960s

2021 ◽  
pp. 1-25
Author(s):  
Vincent Dubé-Senécal
Keyword(s):  
Textile Industry ◽  
The State ◽  
Trade Association ◽  
Fashion Industry ◽  
Haute Couture ◽  
Textile Industries ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
Multi Stakeholder

This article investigates the change in relations between Parisian haute couture and the French textile industry in the 1950s and 1960s. This study is grounded in the multiple changes that occurred between the two decades with the end of a state-sponsored and textile-backed aid to couture plan in 1960, the dematerialization of fashion in the 1960s and the advent of brands and licenses, and the waning of couture’s influence throughout the period. It cross-references archives from multi-stakeholder meetings between the state, couture, and textile representatives with the couturiers’ trade association archives and diplomatic archives to show how the changing fashion landscape impacted their interactions. This study shows that while the couture and textile industries drifted apart, the government’s interest in couture grew. This reframes the narrative on couture’s alleged influence as the spearhead of the textile industry while illustrating its wider prestige influence and its relevance to the state.

Fonds of Agricultural Cooperatives in Međimurje and Koprivnička podravina after 1945

2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (2) ◽  
pp. 184-196
Author(s):  
Jasna Požgan ◽  
◽  
Ivana Posedi ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Agricultural Production ◽  
The State ◽  
Large Impact ◽  
Agricultural Cooperatives ◽  
Archival Collection ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
1960S And 1970S ◽  
State Archives ◽  
The 1960S

The article deals with issues of agricultural cooperatives in the regions of Međimurje and Koprivnička Podravina between 1945 and 1953, and their reorganisation. The reorganisation itself had a large impact on creation of the archival collection of the agricultural cooperatives. Agricultural cooperatives were established in 1945 and in the 1950s and were active through the 1960s when they were abolished. Their records were acquired by the State Archives in Varaždin during the 1960s and 1970s. While about 30 archival fonds of agricultural cooperatives are preserved in the State Archives for Međimurje, only a few are preserved in the State Archives in Varaždin, Collective Center Koprivnica. The importance of such fonds lies in the fact that records provide information about agricultural production in a certain territory and information about its management.

scholarly journals Puhumalla hallitseminen. Vahvan johtajuuden ilmentyminen Kekkosen radiopuheissa 1937–1967

2016 ◽  
Vol 29 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Jukka-Pekka Puro
Keyword(s):  
Foreign Policy ◽  
Political Leadership ◽  
The State ◽  
The Political ◽  
Speech Genre ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
Rhetorical Leadership

Leadership through Speeches. The Manifestations of Strong Leadership in Kekkonen’s Radio Speeches of the Years 1937–1967Presidential radio speeches, as they were broadcast in Finland from the 1930s to the 1960s, were an integral part of Urho Kekkonen's political leadership and his position as the head of the state. In this article, Kekkonen’s speeches are divided into three genres: memorial speeches, New Year’s speeches, and foreign policy speeches. Each speech genre can be interpreted to avail various political ambitions and the political objectives strengthened during the time. In his first national radio speeches, Kekkonen was moderate and restraint, but during the 1950s the speeches became persuasive and eloquent. In Kekkonen’s most famous speeches of the 1960s, he applied diverse techniques of classic rhetoric aiming at strong rhetorical leadership. The 34 speeches, discussed in this article, are analyzed from the perspectives of neo-classical and generic rhetorical criticism.Puhumalla hallitseminen. Vahvan johtajuuden ilmentyminen Kekkosen radiopuheissa vuosina 1937–1967  Tarkastelen tässä artikkelissa Urho Kaleva Kekkosen vuosina 1937–1967 pitämiä radiopuheita. Radiopuheet olivat kiinteä osa Kekkosen poliittista johtajuutta ja hänen asemaansa valtionpäämiehenä. Puheet jaetaan artikkelissa kolmeen lajityyppiin: muistopuheisiin, uudenvuodenpuheisiin ja turvallisuuspuheisiin. Jokaisella lajityypillä voi tulkita olleen omat poliittiset tavoitteensa. Lajityyppien sisällä on paljon vaihtelua: Kekkosen radioretoriikkaa leimaa etenkin tarkastelujakson alkupuolella maltillisuus ja pidättyväisyys, mutta joissain 1960-luvun ulko- ja turvallisuuspoliittisissa puheissa voidaan havaita lähinnä uskonnolliselle retoriikalle ominaista hurmoshenkisyyttä. Kekkosta voidaan pitää monellakin tapaa klassisena poliittisena reettorina. Hän tunsi ja hallitsi monipuolisesti retoriikan tekniikoita eikä kavahtanut – kuten retorinen analyysi etenkin niin kutsuttujen yöpakkas- ja noottikriisipuheiden yhteydessä osoittaa – kovien tekniikoiden käyttämistä poliittisissa ristiriitatilanteissa.

scholarly journals Gerald McCann: The Rediscovery of a Fashion Designer

Costume ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 52 (1) ◽  
pp. 97-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kevin Almond ◽  
Caroline Riches
Keyword(s):  
Royal College ◽  
Fashion Industry ◽  
Treasure Trove ◽  
Fashion Designer ◽  
The Usa ◽  
History Of ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The Uk ◽  
Fashion Designers

This article was prompted by the discovery of the archive of international fashion designer Gerald McCann, hidden in a garage in Fleetwood, Lancashire, UK. The contents of the archive revealed a treasure trove of press cuttings, photographs, fashion drawings and interviews as well as designs and costings from a once well-known designer, whose significance to the global fashion industry is sparsely documented and largely forgotten. The article reveals the history of the designer, who graduated from the Royal College of Art in London in the 1950s, during the tenure of Professor Madge Garland, and forged a career at the heart of ‘Swinging London’ in the 1960s. He was lured to the USA in the 1970s, returning to the UK in the 1990s as a designer for House of Fraser and Harrods. The research offers the first significant assessment of McCann's position in global fashion and the value and relevance of his legacy, as well as exploring the rationale for documenting the history of forgotten fashion designers.

Rewriting the Narrative

2019 ◽  
Vol 96 (4) ◽  
pp. 54-77
Author(s):  
Nicolas G. Rosenthal
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Native American ◽  
American Indian ◽  
Modern Society ◽  
Mixed Media ◽  
The State ◽  
Historical Narratives ◽  
Recent Scholarship ◽  
Art Scene ◽  
The 1960S

A vibrant American Indian art scene developed in California from the 1960s to the 1980s, with links to a broader indigenous arts movement. Native American artists working in the state produced and exhibited paintings, prints, sculptures, mixed media, and other art forms that validated and documented their cultures, interpreted their history, asserted their survival, and explored their experiences in modern society. Building on recent scholarship that examines American Indian migration, urbanization, and activism in the twentieth century, this article charts these developments and argues that American Indian artists in California challenged and rewrote dominant historical narratives by foregrounding Native American perspectives in their work.

Transformations: The New Deal through the 1950s

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nancy Woloch
Keyword(s):  
Women Workers ◽  
New Deal ◽  
Federal Court ◽  
Labor Standards ◽  
Equal Rights ◽  
Single Sex ◽  
Fair Labor Standards Act ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
The New Deal

This chapter traces the changes in federal and state protective policies from the New Deal through the 1950s. In contrast to the setbacks of the 1920s, the New Deal revived the prospects of protective laws and of their proponents. The victory of the minimum wage for women workers in federal court in 1937 and the passage in 1938 of the Fair Labor Standards Act (FLSA), which extended labor standards to men, represented a peak of protectionist achievement. This achievement rested firmly on the precedent of single-sex labor laws for which social feminists—led by the NCL—had long campaigned. However, “equal rights” gained momentum in the postwar years, 1945–60. By the start of the 1960s, single-sex protective laws had resumed their role as a focus of contention in the women's movement.

Frontiers of Visibility

Transfers ◽  
2013 ◽  
Vol 3 (2) ◽  
pp. 24-46 ◽  
Author(s):  
Franziska Torma
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Current Understanding ◽  
Machine Age ◽  
History Of ◽  
Three Stages ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
Popular Images ◽  
Cinematic Technology

This article deals with the history of underwater film and the role that increased mobility plays in the exploration of nature. Drawing on research on the exploration of the ocean, it analyzes the production of popular images of the sea. The entry of humans into the depths of the oceans in the twentieth century did not revitalize myths of mermaids but rather retold oceanic myths in a modern fashion. Three stages stand out in this evolution of diving mobility. In the 1920s and 1930s, scenes of divers walking under water were the dominant motif. From the 1940s to the 1960s, use of autonomous diving equipment led to a modern incarnation of the “mermen“ myth. From the 1950s to the 1970s, cinematic technology was able to create visions of entire oceanic ecosystems. Underwater films contributed to the period of machine-age exploration in a very particular way: they made virtual voyages of the ocean possible and thus helped to shape the current understanding of the oceans as part of Planet Earth.

ACCOUNTING FOR IDLE CAPACITY: ITS PLACE IN THE HISTORICAL COST LITERATURE AND CONJECTURE ABOUT ITS DISAPPEARANCE

1996 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 25-49 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gloria Vollmers
Keyword(s):  
Great Depression ◽  
Cost Accounting ◽  
Turn Of The Century ◽  
Industrial Engineer ◽  
Historical Cost ◽  
The Great Depression ◽  
Income Measurement ◽  
The 1950S ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
Idle Capacity

How best to provide management with useful information about the underutilization of factory and machinery are old cost accounting questions. The literature from the turn of the century up through the 1950s reveals that the topic interested many. This paper resurrects those historical discussions. The objective is twofold, to demonstrate the sophistication and innovation of early writers emphasizing why they thought the topic important, and, to explore some theories about why this interest dissipated within the accounting literature. The possibilities include the effect of the great depression, wartime regulations, the withdrawal of the industrial engineer from costing and the growing importance of income measurement. This research ends in the 1960s, by which time idle capacity as an independent topic has largely disappeared.

A Legitimacy Crisis of Representative Democracy?

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jacques Thomassen ◽  
Carolien van Ham
Keyword(s):  
Empirical Evidence ◽  
State Of The Art ◽  
Short Description ◽  
The State ◽  
Political Support ◽  
Systematic Fashion ◽  
Research Questions ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
Established Democracies ◽  
Legitimacy Crisis

This chapter presents the research questions and outline of the book, providing a brief review of the state of the art of legitimacy research in established democracies, and discusses the recurring theme of crisis throughout this literature since the 1960s. It includes a discussion of the conceptualization and measurement of legitimacy, seeking to relate legitimacy to political support, and reflecting on how to evaluate empirical indicators: what symptoms indicate crisis? This chapter further explains the structure of the three main parts of the book. Part I evaluates in a systematic fashion the empirical evidence for legitimacy decline in established democracies; Part II reappraises the validity of theories of legitimacy decline; and Part II investigates what (new) explanations can account for differences in legitimacy between established democracies. The chapter concludes with a short description of the chapters included in the volume.

Conclusion

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Aled Davies
Keyword(s):  
International Monetary System ◽  
The State ◽  
Real Economy ◽  
Social Democratic ◽  
Monetary System ◽  
1960S And 1970S ◽  
Post War ◽  
The 1960S ◽  
City Of London ◽  
The City

The aim of this book has been to evaluate the relationship between Britain’s financial sector, based in the City of London, and the social democratic economic strategy of post-war Britain. The central argument presented in the book was that changes to the City during the 1960s and 1970s undermined a number of the key post-war social democratic techniques designed to sustain and develop a modern industrial economy. Financial institutionalization weakened the state’s ability to influence investment, and the labour movement was unable successfully to integrate the institutionalized funds within a renewed social democratic economic agenda. The post-war settlement in banking came under strain in the 1960s as new banking and credit institutions developed that the state struggled to manage. This was exacerbated by the decision to introduce competition among the clearing banks in 1971, which further weakened the state’s capacity to control the provision and allocation of credit to the real economy. The resurrection of an unregulated global capital market, centred on London, overwhelmed the capacity of the state to pursue domestic-focused macroeconomic policies—a problem worsened by the concurrent collapse of the Bretton Woods international monetary system. Against this background, the fundamental social democratic assumption that national prosperity could be achieved only through industry-led growth and modernization was undermined by an effective campaign to reconceptualize Britain as a fundamentally financial and commercial nation with the City of London at its heart....

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