Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era—a narrative review

2020 ◽  
pp. bjsports-2020-102035
Author(s):  
Christoph Lutter ◽  
Thomas Tischer ◽  
Volker Rainer Schöffl
Keyword(s):  
High Performance ◽  
Olympic Games ◽  
Medical Knowledge ◽  
Maximum Speed ◽  
Prevention Measures ◽  
Injury Rates ◽  
New Era ◽  
Finger Injuries ◽  
Injury Frequency ◽  
Combined Mode

Climbing as a competition sport has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly the sub-discipline of bouldering. The sport will debut in the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games. National and international competitions have three disciplines: lead (climbing with rope protection), bouldering (climbing at lower heights with mattress floor protection) and speed (maximum speed climbing on a standardised route in 1-on-1 mode). There is also a ‘combined mode’ of all three disciplines (combined) which forms the Olympic competition format; all competition formats are held on artificial walls. Existing literature describes a predominantly low injury frequency and severity in elite climbing. In comparison to climbing on real rock, artificial climbing walls have recently been associated with higher injury rates. Finger injuries such as tenosynovitis, pulley lesions and growth plate injuries are the most common injuries. As finger injuries are sport-specific, medical supervision of climbing athletes requires specific medical knowledge for diagnosis and treatment. There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work in this field. An improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free and to prevent doping cases as extensively as possible.

scholarly journals Special characteristics of technical actions, performed by qualified athletes, specializing in 110 m hurdles

2021 ◽  
pp. 33-41
Author(s):  
V.I. Bobrovnick ◽  
S.Ye. Kopanayko
Keyword(s):  
High Speed ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Olympic Games ◽  
Track And Field ◽  
Maximum Speed ◽  
Coordination Ability ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Main Components ◽  
Genetically Determined ◽  
The 19Th Century

The modern high-performance sport is characterized by high sports results, which are shown by athletes at international forums (Olympic Games, World and European Championships). One of the track-and-field athletics events, that can be called unique, is hurdling. The typical characteristics of hurdling include high speed, agility, coordination ability and strength capabilities required to overcome the hurdle. The emergence and development of hurdling began in the second half of the 19th century. The first rules were published in 1864, and the height of the hurdles as well as the distance between them have remained unchanged up to this day. In 1898, in Chicago (USA), A. Kreinzlen set a record in 120 yards hurdles, using a new at that time technique of overcoming hurdles. It was this technique that formed the basis of the modern one and still remains relevant for coaches and athletes [16, p. 29–32, 12, p. 175– 184]. The technical actions of an athlete can be divided into such components as start, starting run-up and distance running. These main components are relevant for both men and women [16, p. 35–37]. The increase of performance rates in hurdling directly depends on learning to overcome obstacles and maintaining the maximum speed along a distance after overcoming, which is the main problem of studying and applying the research results in the training process. Among the main characteristics of hurdlers’ technical actions are the preparation and overcoming of a hurdle (both the first and the following ones along a distance) without losing the possible maximum speed. This means that an athlete must have a highly developed ability to quickly change the elements of technique at a high speed with the help of already developed or genetically determined agility [2, p.199-217]. The analysis of athletes’ performances at the Olympic Games, World and European Championships during 1992 – 2019 showed that nobody among the Ukrainian hurdlers won a prize at these competitions (Table 1).

On The Hydrodynamics Of A Skiff At Different Crew Positions

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ignazio Maria Viola ◽  
Joshua Enlander
Keyword(s):  
Uncertainty Analysis ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Olympic Games ◽  
Towing Tank ◽  
Lower Resistance ◽  
Model Scale ◽  
Sailing Boat ◽  
Large Vessels

A set of towing tank tests was undertaken on a 1:4-model-scale high-performance small sailing boat, which was a candidate for the 2016 Olympic games. The resistance, sink and trim were measured and uncertainty analysis was completed. The boat was tested for different longitudinal positions of the crew in displacement, transition and fully planning regimes. The resistance measurements in the towing tank were well correlated with established empirical formulations developed for planning hulls. It was found that at low Froude numbers, forward crew positions allow lower resistance and resistance increases significantly for after crew positions, while at higher Froude numbers after positions allow lower resistance, and the resistance is less sensible to the crew position. These findings are in agreement with sailor experience and with measurements performed by other authors on large vessels.

scholarly journals Bone Repair: High-Performance Thiol-Ene Composites Unveil a New Era of Adhesives Suited for Bone Repair (Adv. Funct. Mater. 26/2018)

2018 ◽  
Vol 28 (26) ◽  
pp. 1870180 ◽  
Author(s):  
Viktor Granskog ◽  
Sandra García-Gallego ◽  
Johanna von Kieseritzky ◽  
Jennifer Rosendahl ◽  
Patrik Stenlund ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
High Performance ◽  
Bone Repair ◽  
New Era

Epidemiology of Injuries in Olympic Sports

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christophe Lambert ◽  
Ramona Ritzmann ◽  
Ralph Akoto ◽  
Maxime Lambert ◽  
Thomas Pfeiffer ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Retrospective Study ◽  
Olympic Games ◽  
Team Sports ◽  
Track And Field ◽  
Shoulder Injuries ◽  
Time Loss ◽  
Severe Injuries ◽  
Injury Frequency ◽  
Performance Reduction ◽  
Sporting Performance

AbstractInjuries effect the performance of athletes. Severity of injuries is determined by time loss and sporting performance reduction. To treat injuries adequately, it is necessary to get an overview of varied injuries types in different sports disciplines. In a retrospective study 7.809 athletes from Germany, Switzerland and Austria competing in competitive or recreational levels of sports were included. Injury prevalence was highest in team sports (75%), followed by combat (64%), racquet (54%) and track and field (51%). Knee (28%) and shoulder (14%) were the most at risk joints. Time loss in sporting activity after injury was longest in the region of knee (26 weeks). Of all reported injuries, 48% were accompanied by a reduced level of performance. The highest injury prevalence occurred in the year 2016 (45%). More injuries occurred during training (58%) compared to competition (42%). Across Olympic disciplines, a large number of injuries occurred during training sessions. Injury frequency increased as the Olympic games drew closer. Knee and shoulder injuries were the most severe injuries with respect to time loss and reduction sporting performance.

A New Era in Sport Organizations and Coach Development in Finland

2016 ◽  
Vol 3 (3) ◽  
pp. 332-343
Author(s):  
Kirsi Hämäläinen ◽  
Minna Blomqvist
Keyword(s):  
High Performance ◽  
Systematic Research ◽  
Sport Organizations ◽  
Coach Education ◽  
New Era ◽  
Coach Development ◽  
New Learning ◽  
Strategic Goals ◽  
Further Development ◽  
Common Understanding

The purpose of this article is to describe recent actions for sport organizations and coach development in Finland. Finnish Sport organizations and systems especially in high-performance sports have been in a transition phase in recent years. The high-performance sport systems have been analyzed and reorganized and new strategic goals were set. Coach development was chosen as one of the focus areas and the leadership of coach development is at the new High Performance Unit of the Olympic Committee. There are different education paths for coaches and all the organizations which provide coach education belong to a network for coach development. This network works for developing programs, learning concepts and tools and sharing of expertise. One key idea of the development work has been to conduct systematic research among Finnish coaches to gain objective information of coaches’ needs and learning experiences. As a result of this work, the Finnish Coach Competence Model was created as a tool and for creating common understanding of coaches’ competences and for developing education programs and coaches’ assessment. Creating a new learning culture and a network have been the main steps so far and the further development for those are also the main goals in future.

Paper 5. Industrial Vehicle Torque Converter Transmissions

1969 ◽  
Vol 184 (9) ◽  
pp. 97-113
Author(s):  
D. J. K. Stuart
Keyword(s):  
Electric Vehicle ◽  
Duty Cycle ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Torque Converter ◽  
Maximum Speed ◽  
Delivery Vehicle ◽  
Auxiliary Equipment ◽  
Average Speed ◽  
Design Specifications ◽  
Private Car

The highway vehicle is concerned with transporting persons or freight over substantial distances, usually at as high an average speed as the conditions will permit. The high-performance private car and the door-to-door delivery vehicle represent opposite ends of the scale of the duty cycle. In the latter case, the very cycle itself—stop-start characteristics, the high percentage of standing time resulting in relatively small mileage, and the small penalty of limited maximum speed—represents cumulative factors in respect of which the basic economics of the battery-operated electric vehicle dominates other considerations. Thus, in order to arrive at design specifications it is essential to consider the duty cycle which, in the case of all types of industrial vehicle, is characterized by the need to execute a high proportion of forward/reverse manoeuvres, long periods of low-speed operation, and the provision of an increasing complexity of powered auxiliary equipment.

scholarly journals Simulation Optimization: A Review and Exploration in the New Era of Cloud Computing and Big Data

2015 ◽  
Vol 32 (03) ◽  
pp. 1550019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jie Xu ◽  
Edward Huang ◽  
Chun-Hung Chen ◽  
Loo Hay Lee
Keyword(s):  
Cloud Computing ◽  
Big Data ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Manufacturing Systems ◽  
Stochastic Systems ◽  
Simulation Optimization ◽  
Big Data Analytics ◽  
Optimization Techniques ◽  
New Era ◽  
Recent Developments

Recent advances in simulation optimization research and explosive growth in computing power have made it possible to optimize complex stochastic systems that are otherwise intractable. In the first part of this paper, we classify simulation optimization techniques into four categories based on how the search is conducted. We provide tutorial expositions on representative methods from each category, with a focus in recent developments, and compare the strengths and limitations of each category. In the second part of this paper, we review applications of simulation optimization in various contexts, with detailed discussions on health care, logistics, and manufacturing systems. Finally, we explore the potential of simulation optimization in the new era. Specifically, we discuss how simulation optimization can benefit from cloud computing and high-performance computing, its integration with big data analytics, and the value of simulation optimization to help address challenges in engineering design of complex systems.

Perceived Outcomes of a Biofeedback and Neurofeedback Training Intervention for Optimal Performance: Learning to Enhance Self-Awareness and Self-Regulation With Olympic Athletes

2016 ◽  
Vol 30 (4) ◽  
pp. 339-349 ◽  
Author(s):  
Margaret Dupee ◽  
Tanya Forneris ◽  
Penny Werthner
Keyword(s):  
High Performance ◽  
Olympic Games ◽  
Self Regulation ◽  
Personal Control ◽  
Training Intervention ◽  
Self Awareness ◽  
Semistructured Interview ◽  
Neurofeedback Training ◽  
Psychological States ◽  
Perceived Outcomes

The purpose of this study was to explore the perceived outcomes of a biofeedback and neurofeedback training intervention with high performance athletes. Five Olympic level athletes preparing for world championships and the 2012 Olympic Games took part in a 20 session intervention over the period of one year. At the completion of the intervention, a semistructured interview was conducted with each athlete. The athletes indicated that they became more self-aware, were better able to self-regulate both their physiological and psychological states, developed a greater sense of personal control, and a greater understanding of skills inherent in the field of sport psychology. Three of the athletes made the Canadian Olympic team for the 2012 Olympic Games and two of those athletes won bronze medals. The present study suggests that biofeedback and neurofeedback training may be useful in enabling athletes to perform optimally, in both training and competition, on a consistent basis.

scholarly journals A STUDY ON MOVIE RECOMMENDER SYSTEMS BASED ON WORDPRESS PLATFORM

2020 ◽  
Vol 7 (6) ◽  
pp. 152-155
Author(s):  
Tran Thi Thanh
Keyword(s):  
Recommender Systems ◽  
High Performance ◽  
Information Filtering ◽  
Recommendation Systems ◽  
New Era ◽  
History Of ◽  
Movie Recommendation ◽  
User Friendly ◽  
Search History

The rapid growth of data collection has led to a new era of information. Data is being used to create more efficient systems and this is where Recommendation Systems come into play. Recommender systems are among the most effcient tools for information filtering to improve the quality of search results and provide items that are more relevant to the search item or are realted to the search history of the user, especially from big data on Internet. Among those, movie recommendation systems are the useful tools to assist users in classifying them with similar interests. This makes them a central part of websites and e-commerce applications. This paper aims to describe the implementation of a movie recommender system built on the Wordpress platform to be able to take advantage of the plugin support system and outstanding management and statistical features. The obtained results indicate that the proposed approach may provide high performance regarding reliability, efficiency, and accuracy. Moreover, the user-friendly interface and suitable display for devices ranging from desktop to mobile devices are also the advantages.

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