scholarly journals PROSES AKRASI DAN ABRASI BERDASARKAN PEMETAAN KARAKTERISTIK PANTAI DAN DATA GELOMBANG DI TELUK PELABUHAN RATU DAN CILETUH, KABUPATEN SUKABUMI, JAWA BARAT

2016 ◽  
Vol 13 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Deny Setiady ◽  
Lili Sarmili
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Coastal Sediments ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
West Java ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Flux Energy

Lokasi Penelitian dilakukan di teluk Pelabuhan Ratu dan Teluk Ciletuh, Kabupaten Sukabumi, Provinsi Jawa Barat. Tujuan penelitian adalah untuk mengetahui karakteristik pantai dan hubungannya dengan akrasi dan abrasi berdasarkan energi flux. Metode penelitian terdiri dari penentuan posisi, karakteristik pantai, pengambilan sampel sedimen pantai, dan analisis gelombang. Proses abrasi dan akrasi di daerah penelitian erat kaitannya dengan besar kecilnya energi gelombang. Energi gelombang merupakan salah satu komponen dari arus sejajar pantai. Berdasarkan karakteristik pantai, tipe pantai terdiri dari : (1) Daerah perbukitan terjal, (2) Daerah perbukitan bergelombang, dan (3) Daerah dataran rendah. Analisis energi flux gelombang menunjukkan bahwa proses abrasi terjadi dititik tinjau 2 ke 3, 4 ke 5, 6 ke 8, 10 ke 11, 14 ke 15, dan 16 ke 17, sedangkan proses akrasi terjadi di titik tinjau 3 ke 4, 5 ke 6, 8 ke 10, 11 ke 13, 15 ke 16, 17 ke 18, dan 20 ke 21.Kata Kunci: Akrasi, abrasi, karakteristik pantai, energi flux, Pantai Pelabuhan Ratu. Location of the study at Pelabuhan Ratu and Ciletuh bays, Sukabumi of West Java Province. The aim of study is to map the coastal charectristics in relation to accretion and abrasion processes based on wave energy flux. The method consists of navigation, coastal characteristics, coastal sediments samples and wave analyses. The abrasion and accresion processes are closely related to how big the wave energy. Wave energy is one of longshore current components. Based on the coastal characteristics, the coastal types can be divided into : (1) steep hills (2) undulating hills, and (3) lowland. Wave energy flux shows that abrasion processes occur from the point of 2 to 3, 4 to 5, 6 to 8, 10 to 11, 14 to 15, and 16 to 17, while for accretion processes occur from the point of 3 to 4, 5 to 6, 8 to 10, 11 to 13, 15 to 16, 17 to 18, and 20 to 21. Keywords: acrasion, abrasion, coastal characteristic, flux energy, Pelabuhan Ratu coast

scholarly journals KEBENCANAAN GEOLOGI KELAUTAN DI BAGIAN UTARA PULAU OBI, MALUKU

2017 ◽  
Vol 14 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Nineu Yayu Geurhaneu ◽  
Fauzi Budi Prasetio ◽  
Godwin Latuputty
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Secondary Data ◽  
Primary Data ◽  
Depth Range ◽  
Geological Hazard ◽  
Characteristic Mapping ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Flux Energy

Lokasi penelitian terletak di bagian utara pulau Obi, Maluku. Tujuan penelitian ini adalah untuk mengkaji aspek kebencanaan geologi kelautan berupa pengumpulan data primer dan sekunder. Data primer meliputi hasil pengukuran kedalaman dan pemetaan karakteristik pantai. Data sekunder berupa energi gelombang yang dihitung melalui pendekatan energi fluks dari data angin di stasiun pengamatan Labuha/Taliabu tahun 2004 – 2013. Hasil penelitian berupa peta karakteristik pantai dan peta batimetri. Kedalaman daerah penelitian berkisar dari 0 sampai 310 meter dan perairan terdalam terletak di antara Pulau Obi dan Pulau Bisa. Kebencanaan geologi di Pulau Obi berupa banjir bandang, abrasi pantai dan tsunami.Kata kunci : kebencanaan geologi, energi fluks, banjir bandang, abrasi pantai dan tsunami, Pulau ObiThe study area is located on northern part of  Obi Island, Moluccas.  The research objective is to determine the potential of marine geological hazard by primary and secondary data collecting. Primary data consists of bathymetric and coastal characteristic mapping. Secondary data is from calculated wave energy flux by using wind data from Labuha / Taliabu observation stations (2004 – 2013). The result composed of coastal characteristic and bathymetric maps. The water depth range from 0 to 310 metres and the deepest part in between Obi and Bisa islands. The geological hazard on Obi Island consist of  flooding,coastal abrasion and tsunami.Keywords :  geological hazard, flux energy, flooding, coastal abrasion and tsunami, Obi Island

scholarly journals Momentum flux, energy flux and pressure drag associated with mountain wave across western ghat

MAUSAM ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 52 (2) ◽  
pp. 325-332
Author(s):  
SOMENATH DUTTA
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Western Ghat ◽  
Mountain Wave ◽  
Pressure Drag ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Vertically Propagating ◽  
Flux Energy ◽  
Wave Momentum

An attempt has been made to parameterize the wave momentum flux wave energy flux and pressure drag associated with mountain wave across the Mumbai-Pune section of western ghat mountain in India.   A two dimensional frictionless, adiabatic, hydrostatic, Boussinesq flow with constant basic flow (U) and constant Brunt Vaisala frequency (N) across a mesoscale mountain with infinite extension in the Cross wind direction, has been considered here.   It has been shown that for a vertically propagating (or decaying) waves the wave momentum flux is downward (or upward) and the wave energy flux is upward (or downward). It has also been shown that both the fluxes are independent of the half width of the bell shaped part of the western ghat. The analytically derived formula have been used to compute the pressure drag and to find out the vertical profile of wave momentum flux and wave energy flux for different cases of mountain wave across western ghat, as reported by earlier workers.

scholarly journals LABORATORY TESTS OF LONGSHORE TRANSPORT

1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 55 ◽  
Author(s):  
John C. Fairchild
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Current Transport ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Flux Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Median Diameter ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Made In

Tests were made in CERC's Shore Processes Test Basin witlt wayes approaching the toe of a test beach at a 30-degree angle Beach material was quartz sand with median diameter of 0 22 millimeter which, in most tests, was molded to a 1 on 10 slope before starting a test Long crested waves generated in a constant depth of 2 33 feet traveled over the beach, shoaled and were refracted before breaking near the shoreline The breaking action caused the sand to be transported along the shore in the direction of the longshore component of the wave energy flux Transport rates of 2 to 170 cubic yards per day were measured, with the lower rate within the range of laboratory rates reported by Savage^and the higher rate comparable to field rates reported by Watts^for South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida Analysis includes correlation of the measured rates to the longshore wave energy flux, and in some tests, to the longshore current Transport rates, defined by visual fit curve of the data, are about 3 times the rates indicated by the CERC TR-4 design curve for a longshore energy range of 0 016 to 0 760 millions of foot pounds per foot of shore per day.

scholarly journals Joint Modelling of Wave Energy Flux and Wave Direction

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 460
Author(s):  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Flora E. Karathanasi
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Goodness Of Fit ◽  
North Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Western Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Bivariate Model ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In the context of wave resource assessment, the description of wave climate is usually confined to significant wave height and energy period. However, the accurate joint description of both linear and directional wave energy characteristics is essential for the proper and detailed optimization of wave energy converters. In this work, the joint probabilistic description of wave energy flux and wave direction is performed and evaluated. Parametric univariate models are implemented for the description of wave energy flux and wave direction. For wave energy flux, conventional, and mixture distributions are examined while for wave direction proven and efficient finite mixtures of von Mises distributions are used. The bivariate modelling is based on the implementation of the Johnson–Wehrly model. The examined models are applied on long-term measured wave data at three offshore locations in Greece and hindcast numerical wave model data at three locations in the western Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the North Atlantic Ocean. A global criterion that combines five individual goodness-of-fit criteria into a single expression is used to evaluate the performance of bivariate models. From the optimum bivariate model, the expected wave energy flux as function of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy flux for the mean and most probable wave directions are also obtained.

Horizontal energy flux of wind-driven intraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic by a unified diagnosis

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingyang Song ◽  
Hidenori Aiki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Horizontal Distribution ◽  
Kelvin Waves ◽  
Asymmetric Distribution ◽  
Central Basin ◽  
Tropical Atlantic ◽  
Equatorial Wave ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Velocity Anomalies

AbstractIntraseasonal waves in the tropical Atlantic Ocean have been found to carry prominent energy that affects interannual variability of zonal currents. This study investigates energy transfer and interaction of wind-driven intraseasonal waves using single-layer model experiments. Three sets of wind stress forcing at intraseasonal periods of around 30 days, 50 days and 80 days with a realistic horizontal distribution are employed separately to excite the second baroclinic mode in the tropical Atlantic. A unified scheme for calculating the energy flux, previously approximated and used for the diagnosis of annual Kelvin and Rossby waves, is utilized in the present study in its original form for intraseasonal waves. Zonal velocity anomalies by Kelvin waves dominate the 80-day scenario. Meridional velocity anomalies by Yanai waves dominate the 30-day scenario. In the 50-day scenario, the two waves have comparable magnitudes. The horizontal distribution of wave energy flux is revealed. In the 30-day and 50-day scenarios, a zonally alternating distribution of cross-equatorial wave energy flux is found. By checking an analytical solution excluding Kelvin waves, we confirm that the cross-equatorial flux is caused by the meridional transport of geopotential at the equator. This is attributed to the combination of Kelvin and Yanai waves and leads to the asymmetric distribution of wave energy in the central basin. Coastally-trapped Kelvin waves along the African coast are identified by along-shore energy flux. In the north, the bend of the Guinea coast leads the flux back to the equatorial basin. In the south, the Kelvin waves strengthened by local wind transfer the energy from the equatorial to Angolan regions.

scholarly journals Another Note on Rossby Wave Energy Flux

2020 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 531-534
Author(s):  
Theodore S. Durland ◽  
J. Thomas Farrar
Keyword(s):  
Group Velocity ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Rossby Wave ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Energy Equation ◽  
Divergent Part ◽  
Pressure Work ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Definition Of

AbstractLonguet-Higgins in 1964 first pointed out that the Rossby wave energy flux as defined by the pressure work is not the same as that defined by the group velocity. The two definitions provide answers that differ by a nondivergent vector. Longuet-Higgins suggested that the problem arose from ambiguity in the definition of energy flux, which only impacts the energy equation through its divergence. Numerous authors have addressed this issue from various perspectives, and we offer one more approach that we feel is more succinct than previous ones, both mathematically and conceptually. We follow the work described by Cai and Huang in 2013 in concluding that there is no need to invoke the ambiguity offered by Longuet-Higgins. By working directly from the shallow-water equations (as opposed to the more involved quasigeostrophic treatment of Cai and Huang), we provide a concise derivation of the nondivergent pressure work and demonstrate that the two energy flux definitions are equivalent when only the divergent part of the pressure work is considered. The difference vector comes from the nondivergent part of the geostrophic pressure work, and the familiar westward component of the Rossby wave group velocity comes from the divergent part of the geostrophic pressure work. In a broadband wave field, the expression for energy flux in terms of a single group velocity is no longer meaningful, but the expression for energy flux in terms of the divergent pressure work is still valid.

scholarly journals Probabilistic forecasting of the wave energy flux

2012 ◽  
Vol 93 ◽  
pp. 364-370 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Pinson ◽  
G. Reikard ◽  
J.-R. Bidlot
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Probabilistic Forecasting ◽  
Wave Energy Flux
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