scholarly journals The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

2022 ◽  
Vol 12 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jiří Baláš ◽  
Jan Gajdošík ◽  
David Giles ◽  
Simon Fryer
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Critical Angle ◽  
Perceived Exertion ◽  
Near Infrared ◽  
Critical Power ◽  
Progressive Increase ◽  
Model Fit ◽  
Sport Climbing ◽  
Valid Estimate ◽  
The Mathematical Model

Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task.Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS).Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R2 = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was −17 ± 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at −2.5 ± 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 ± 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 ± 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 ± 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°).Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.

Physiological and Perceived Exertion Responses at Intermittent Critical Power and Intermittent Maximal Lactate Steady State

2011 ◽  
Vol 25 (7) ◽  
pp. 2053-2058 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nilo M Okuno ◽  
Luiz AB Perandini ◽  
David Bishop ◽  
Herbert G Simões ◽  
Gleber Pereira ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Perceived Exertion ◽  
Critical Power ◽  
Maximal Lactate Steady State

Effect of Climbing Speed on Pulmonary Oxygen Uptake and Muscle Oxygen Saturation Dynamics in the Finger Flexors

2021 ◽  
pp. 1-9
Author(s):  
Jan Gajdošík ◽  
Jirˇí Baláš ◽  
Dominika Krupková ◽  
Lukáš Psohlavec ◽  
Nick Draper
Keyword(s):  
Oxygen Uptake ◽  
Oxygen Saturation ◽  
Near Infrared ◽  
Cellular Level ◽  
Gas Analysis ◽  
Whole Body ◽  
Flexor Digitorum Profundus ◽  
Muscle Oxygen ◽  
Sport Climbing ◽  
Body Activity

Purpose: Although sport climbing is a self-paced whole-body activity, speed varies with climbing style, and the effect of this on systemic and localized oxygen responses is not well understood. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to determine muscle and pulmonary oxygen responses during submaximal climbing at differing speeds of ascent. Methods: Thirty-two intermediate and advanced sport climbers completed three 4-minute-long ascents of the same route at 4, 6, and 9 m·min−1 on a motorized climbing ergometer (treadwall) on separate laboratory visits. Gas analysis and near-infrared spectroscopy were used to determine systemic oxygen uptake () and muscle oxygen saturation (StO2) of the flexor digitorum profundus. Results: Increases in ascent speed of 1 m·min−1 led to increases of by 2.4 mL·kg−1·min−1 (95% CI, 2.1 to 2.8 mL·kg−1·min−1) and decreases in StO2 by −1.3% (95% CI, 1.9% to −0.7%). There was a significant interaction of climbing ability and speed for StO2 (P < .001, ). The results revealed that the decrease of StO2 was present for intermediate but not advanced climbers. Conclusions: In this study, the results suggest that demand during climbing was largely determined by climbing speed; however, the ability level of the climber appeared to mitigate StO2 at a cellular level. Coaches and instructors may prescribe climbing ascents with elevated speed to improve generalized cardiorespiratory fitness. To stimulate localized aerobic capacity, however, climbers should perhaps increase the intensity of training ascents through the manipulation of wall angle or reduction of hold size.

scholarly journals Effects of respiratory muscle endurance training on cerebral oxygenation and hemodynamics, and effort perceptions during maximal exercise

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Johnna Somerville
Keyword(s):  
Endurance Training ◽  
Respiratory Muscle ◽  
Perceived Exertion ◽  
Near Infrared ◽  
Maximal Exercise ◽  
Cerebral Oxygenation ◽  
Primary Objective ◽  
Muscle Endurance ◽  
Time To Exhaustion ◽  
Respiratory Muscle Endurance

The primary objective of this study was to investigate the effects of a 4-week respiratory muscle endurance training (eRMT) program on the physiological and psychological aspects of central fatigue using, respectively, near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) and quantification of effort perceptions during maximal exercise. A secondary objective was to assess any impact of eRMT on respiratory health and exercise performance. This study compared pre- and post-eRMT data from the same group of healthy adults. The results indicated that eRMT did not have any effect on respiratory function, exercise time to exhaustion, or physiological responses to exercise but significantly decreased ratings of perceived exertion (RPE) during exercise. An increase in the concentrations of oxygenated hemoglobin [O2Hb], deoxygenated hemoglobin [HHb], and total hemoglobin [tHb] during exercise was observed post-eRMT compared to pre-eRMT, and this increase differed by hemisphere. Based on these preliminary findings, we suggest an eRMTinduced left-to-right hemodynamic shift during exercise, consistent with the change from a novel to a learned task.

scholarly journals Is Rating of Perceived Exertion a Valuable Tool for Monitoring Exercise Intensity During Steady-State Conditions in Elite Endurance Athletes?

2020 ◽  
pp. 1-7
Author(s):  
Thomas Losnegard ◽  
Sondre Skarli ◽  
Joar Hansen ◽  
Stian Roterud ◽  
Ida S. Svendsen ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Blood Lactate ◽  
Perceived Exertion ◽  
Strong Relationship ◽  
Capillary Blood ◽  
Rating Of Perceived Exertion ◽  
Endurance Athletes ◽  
Subjective Perception ◽  
Test Protocol ◽  
Exercise Mode

Purpose: Rating of perceived exertion (RPE) is a widely used tool to assess subjective perception of effort during exercise. The authors investigated between-subject variation and effect of exercise mode and sex on Borg RPE (6–20) in relation to heart rate (HR), oxygen uptake (VO2), and capillary blood lactate concentrations. Methods: A total of 160 elite endurance athletes performed a submaximal and maximal test protocol either during cycling (n = 84, 37 women) or running (n = 76, 32 women). The submaximal test consisted of 4 to 7 progressive 5-minute steps within ∼50% to 85% of maximal VO2. For each step, steady-state HR, VO2, and capillary blood lactate concentrations were assessed and RPE reported. An incremental protocol to exhaustion was used to determine maximal VO2 and peak HR to provide relative (%) HR and VO2 values at submaximal work rates. Results: A strong relationship was found between RPE and %HR, %VO2, and capillary blood lactate concentrations (r = .80–.82, all Ps < .05). The between-subject coefficient of variation (SD/mean) for %HR and %VO2 decreased linearly with increased RPE, from ∼10% to 15% at RPE 8 to ∼5% at RPE 17. Compared with cycling, running induced a systematically higher %HR and %VO2 (∼2% and 5%, respectively, P < .05) with these differences being greater at lower intensities (RPE < 13). At the same RPE, women showed a trivial, but significantly higher %HR and %VO2 than men (<1%, P < .05). Conclusions: Among elite endurance athletes, exercise mode influenced RPE at a given %HR and %VO2, with greater differences at lower exercise intensities. Athletes should manage different tools to evaluate training based on intensity and duration of workouts.

Effect of aerobic training status on both maximal lactate steady state and critical power

2012 ◽  
Vol 37 (4) ◽  
pp. 736-743 ◽  
Author(s):  
Camila Coelho Greco ◽  
Renato Aparecido Corrêa Caritá ◽  
Jeanne Dekerle ◽  
Benedito Sérgio Denadai
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Oxygen Uptake ◽  
Aerobic Fitness ◽  
Maximal Oxygen Uptake ◽  
Aerobic Training ◽  
Critical Power ◽  
Training Status ◽  
Maximal Lactate Steady State ◽  
Incremental Test ◽  
Constant Work Rate

This study aimed at assessing the sensitivity of both maximal lactate steady state (MLSS) and critical power (CP) in populations of different aerobic training status to ascertain whether CP is as sensitive as MLSS to a change in aerobic fitness. Seven untrained subjects (UT) (maximal oxygen uptake = 37.4 ± 6.5 mL·kg–1·min–1) and 7 endurance cyclists (T) (maximal oxygen uptake = 62.4 ± 5.2 mL·kg–1·min–1) performed an incremental test for maximal oxygen uptake estimation and several constant work rate tests for MLSS and CP determination. MLSS, whether expressed in mL·kg–1·min–1 (T: 51.8 ± 5.7 vs. UT: 29.0 ± 6.1) or % maximal oxygen uptake (T: 83.1 ± 6.8 vs. UT: 77.1 ± 4.5), was significantly higher in the T group. CP expressed in mL·kg–1·min–1 (T: 56.8 ± 5.1 vs. UT: 33.1 ± 6.3) was significantly higher in the T group as well but no difference was found when expressed in % maximal oxygen uptake (T: 91.1 ± 4.8 vs. UT: 88.3 ± 3.6). Whether expressed in absolute or relative values, MLSS is sensitive to aerobic training status and a good measure of aerobic endurance. Conversely, the improvement in CP with years of training is proportional to those of maximal oxygen uptake. Thus, CP might be less sensitive than MLSS for depicting an enhancement in aerobic fitness.

Steady-state Raman gain in visible and near-infrared waveband of SrWO4 and BaWO4 crystals

2014 ◽  
Vol 12 (12) ◽  
pp. 121902-121904 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fang Zhang Fang Zhang ◽  
Qinghua Zhang Qinghua Zhang ◽  
Bo Wang Bo Wang ◽  
Dawei Hu Dawei Hu ◽  
Haohai Yu Haohai Yu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Steady State ◽  
Near Infrared ◽  
Raman Gain

Applying the Critical Power Model to a Full-Body Resistance-Training Movement

2019 ◽  
Vol 14 (10) ◽  
pp. 1364-1370 ◽  
Author(s):  
Taylor K. Dinyer ◽  
M. Travis Byrd ◽  
Ashley N. Vesotsky ◽  
Pasquale J. Succi ◽  
Haley C. Bergstrom
Keyword(s):  
Linear Regression ◽  
Critical Power ◽  
Total Work ◽  
Simple Linear Regression ◽  
Paired Samples ◽  
Body Resistance ◽  
Distance Relationship ◽  
Repetitions To Failure ◽  
The Mathematical Model ◽  
Critical Resistance

Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used to derive critical power could be used to identify the critical resistance (CR) for the deadlift; compare predicted and actual repetitions to failure at 50%, 60%, 70%, and 80% 1-repetition maximum (1RM); and compare the CR with the estimated sustainable resistance for 30 repetitions (ESR30). Methods: Twelve subjects completed 1RM testing for the deadlift followed by 4 visits to determine the number of repetitions to failure at 50%, 60%, 70%, and 80% 1RM. The CR was calculated as the slope of the line of the total work completed (repetitions × weight [in kilograms] × distance [in meters]) vs the total distance (in meters) the barbell traveled. The actual and predicted repetitions to failure were determined from the CR model and compared using paired-samples t tests and simple linear regression. The ESR30 was determined from the power-curve analysis and compared with the CR using paired-samples t tests and simple linear regression. Results: The weight and repetitions completed at CR were 56 (11) kg and 49 (14) repetitions. The actual repetitions to failure were less than predicted at 50% 1RM (P < .001) and 80% 1RM (P < .001) and greater at 60% 1RM (P = .004), but there was no difference at 70% 1RM (P = .084). The ESR30 (75 [14] kg) was greater (P < .001) than the CR. Conclusions: The total work-vs-distance relationship can be used to identify the CR for the deadlift, which reflected a sustainable resistance that may be useful in the design of resistance-based exercise programs.

scholarly journals Changes in Markers of Oxidative Stress and α-Amylase in Saliva of Children Associated with a Tennis Competition

2020 ◽  
Vol 17 (17) ◽  
pp. 6269 ◽  
Author(s):  
José María Giménez-Egido ◽  
Raquel Hernández-García ◽  
Damián Escribano ◽  
Silvia Martínez-Subiela ◽  
Gema Torres-Luque ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Oxidative Stress ◽  
Antioxidant Capacity ◽  
Psychological Stress ◽  
Antioxidant Status ◽  
Perceived Exertion ◽  
Progressive Increase ◽  
Rating Of Perceived Exertion ◽  
Trolox Equivalent Antioxidant Capacity ◽  
Reducing Ability ◽  
Trolox Equivalent

The purpose of this paper was to analyze the changes caused by a one-day tennis tournament in biomarkers of oxidative stress and α-amylase in saliva in children. The sample was 20 male active children with the following characteristics: (a) age of players = 9.46 ± 0.66 years; (b) weight = 34.8 ± 6.5 kg; (c) height = 136.0 ± 7.9 cm; (d) mean weekly training tennis = 2.9 ± 1.0 h. The tennis competition ran for one day, with four matches for each player. Data were taken from the average duration per match and the rating of perceived exertion (RPE). Four biomarkers of antioxidant status: uric acid (AU), Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC), ferric reducing ability of saliva (FRAS, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC) and salivary alpha-amylase (sAA) as a biomarker of psychological stress were measured in saliva. The time points were baseline (at home before the tournament), pre-competition (immediately before the first match) and post-match (after each match) measurements. The four biomarkers of antioxidant status showed a similar dynamic with lower values at baseline and a progressive increase during the four matches. Overall one-day tennis competition in children showed a tendency to increase antioxidant biomarkers in saliva. In addition, there was an increase in pre-competition sAA possibly associated with psychological stress. Further studies about the possible physiological implications of these findings should be performed in the future.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document