scholarly journals Applying Axial Symmetries to Historical Silk Fabrics: SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom

Symmetry ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 742
Author(s):  
Mar Gaitán ◽  
Cristina Portalés ◽  
Javier Sevilla ◽  
Ester Alba

Symmetry is part of textile art in patterns and motifs that decorate fabrics, which are made by the interlacement of warp and wefts. Moreover, the 3D representation of fabrics have already been studied by some authors; however, they have not specifically dealt with preserving historical weaving techniques. In this paper, we present the SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom, a tool intended to document, preserve and reproduce silk historical weaving techniques from the 15th to the 19th centuries. We focus on the symmetry function and its contribution to art history, textile conservation, and modern design. We analyzed 2028 records from Garin 1820 datasets—a historical industry that still weaves with these techniques—and we reconstructed some historical designs that presented different types of defects. For those images (including fabrics and drawings) that had a symmetrical axis, we applied the symmetry functionality allowing to reconstruct missing parts. Thanks to these results, we were able to verify the usefulness of the Virtual Loom for conservation, analysis and new interpretative advantages, thanks to symmetry analysis applied to historical fabrics.

Author(s):  
Cristina Portalés ◽  
Manolo Pérez ◽  
Pablo Casanova-Salas ◽  
Jesús Gimeno

Abstract3D modelling of man-made objects is widely used in the cultural heritage sector, among others. It is relevant for its documentation, dissemination and preservation. Related to historical fabrics, weaves and weaving techniques are still mostly represented in forms of 2D graphics and textual descriptions. However, complex geometries are difficult to represent in such forms, hindering the way this legacy is transmitted to new generations. In this paper, we present the design and implementation of SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom, an interactive tool aimed to document, preserve and represent in interactive 3D forms historical weaves and weaving techniques of silk fabrics, dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries. To that end, our tool only requires an image of a historical fabric. Departing from this image, the tool automatically subtracts the design, and allows the user to apply different weaves and weaving techniques. In its current version, the tool embeds five traditional weaving techniques, 39 weaves and six types of yarns, which have been defined thanks to close collaboration of experts in computer graphics, art history and historical fabrics. Additionally, users can change the color of yarns and produce different 3D representations for a given fabric, which are interactive in real time. In this paper, we bring the details of the design and implementation of this tool, focusing on the input data, the strategy to process images, the 3D modelling of yarns, the definition of weaves and weaving techniques and the graphical user interface. In the results section, we show some examples of image analysis in order to subtract the design of historical fabrics, and then we provide 3D representations for all the considered weaving techniques, combining different types of yarns.


This book is a ground-breaking study of the phenomenon of migration in and to England over the medieval millennium, between c. AD 500 and c. AD 1500. It reaches across traditional scholarly divides, both disciplinary and chronological, to investigate, for the first time, the different types of data and scholarly methods that reveal evidence of migration and mobility within the medieval kingdom of England. England offers the opportunity for studying migration and migrants over the longue durée, because it has been a recognisable political unit for over a millennium and because a wealth of source material has survived from these centuries. The data vary unevenly in quality and quantity across this period, but become considerably more powerful through multi-disciplinary approaches to data collection and interpretation. Fifteen subject specialists synthesise and extend recent research in a wide range of disciplines, including archaeology, art history, genetics, historical linguistics, history, literature and onomastics. They evaluate the capacity of different genres of evidence for addressing questions around migration and its effects on the identities of groups and individuals within medieval England, as well as methodological parameters and future research potential. The book therefore marks an important contribution to medieval studies, and to modern debates on migration and the free movement of people, arguing that migration in the modern world, and its reverberations, cannot be completely understood without taking a broad historical perspective on the topic.


Author(s):  
Tetyana Braichenko

The purpose of the article is to reveal innovative views on the importance of musical activity in the symbiosis of psychological and pedagogical approaches. The methodology consists of the study and analysis of pedagogical, musicological, art history source base, analysis, systematization, and generalization of scientific and methodological sources. The scientific novelty of the work is to study the features of the study of musical activity from a psycho-pedagogical perspective, taking into account the changing socio-cultural environment of the early 21st century. Conclusions. Musical activity in scientific works of the 21st century is studied in the traditional psycho-pedagogical approach but taking into account innovative pedagogical concepts (K. Orff, Z. Kodai, J. Ducklcroze, S. Suzuki) and the introduction of an updated methodology. Among the relevant in the 21st-century methods of teaching music are as follows: alternation of different types of creativity, use of various creative methods, development of unity of motor and musical abilities, improvisation, active musical perception, the combination of collective and individual types of musical activity, participation in artistic and cultural events, communication with artists, the involvement of parents in education.


Author(s):  
Bukhari Bukhari ◽  
Aulia Rahman ◽  
Mufti Riyani

Focusing on the study of historical artifacts of art found in the Aceh Coastal region, this study seeks to analyze ornamental diversity as an aesthetic phenomenon that has a meaningful relationship with 1. Continuation of history, 2. Links in the search for cultural identity, and 3 Balancing cultural values in Acehnese society . Throughout history, the art of embroidering gold threads, woven silk fabrics, stabbing weapons, jewelry art, and wood carvings have been the hallmark of Aceh beach crafts that in their development consistently used their identity motifs. The intended identity motif is a motif that shows the cosmopolitanism of Aceh regarding pre-Islamic cultural influences and influences originating from friendly countries. The diplomatic relations which brought the influence of Persia and the Moghul dynasty from India occurred at the golden peak of Aceh's art history, especially during the times of Iskandar Muda and Iskandar Thani, although in the end, the clearest artistic trend emerged, namely all Islam. Aceh's design patterns in a stylish form become geometric shapes. The characteristic of decoration in the coastal communities of Aceh is influenced by Arabic concepts, is the development of a sense of beauty that is free from natural myths and is done by developing abstract patterns taken from floral motifs, foliage shaped and polygon shapes as a process of balancing cultural values.  


Author(s):  
Anastasiіa Varyvonchyk

The purpose of the article is to highlight the provisions and track the historical evolution of a special Ukrainian art craft, known as the art of tapestry in environmental design. The research methods are based on art history analysis, the principles of historicism, scientific consistency, and objectivity in the study of Ukrainian tapestry. Scientific novelty. The historical origins of tapestry art are revealed, the issue of introducing innovative techniques for making tapestry is raised, which influenced the modern design of the environment of the XXI century. Based on the results of the study, we can conclude that the art of tapestry follows the traditions of folk carpet weaving. In modern conditions, the tapestry is able to actively fill the ethnocultural environment, in rare cases, it is a monumental decorative art. From aristocratic and elite art, it becomes more democratic, decorating the interiors of the premises of the XXI century. Keywords: tapestry, carpet weaving, tradition, innovation, environmental design.


2014 ◽  
Vol 1048 ◽  
pp. 228-231
Author(s):  
Wei Chen

This paper focus on silk clothing design through questionnaires, analysis consumer consumption demand and propensity. Then proposed related strategy: silk costume design should highlight its advantages, on the basis of cultural heritage, shaping the image of the classic silk clothing; optimize the performance of silk fabrics, silk clothing design need to enhance it wearing performance; some modern design elements and skill should used in silk clothing design in order to improve their fashion degree.


Author(s):  
Anastasiya Lyubas

This essay examines the notion of the fantastic in Debora Vogel’s work. I argue that the fantastic for Vogel is simultaneously a novel artistic form and a form of life, as well as a singular use of language; it is both a “trait” of modernity and thinking of modernity. The fantastic is analyzed as a key term in the author’s understanding of modern design of space and objects through discussions of “Dwelling in its Psychic and Social Function” (1932), the critic’s essay on lived space. I demonstrate that Vogel’s reflections and theorizing of the fantastic are not necessarily aimed at the development of pure theory and concepts but rather at the performance of the fantastic in the author’s own theory-praxis through the lens of Vogel’s essay on poetics, “White Words in Poetry” (1930). The essay discusses various types of the fantastic which finds itself between matter-of-factness and phantasm: the fantastic of ingenuity, the fantastic of asymmetry, the fantastic of color, and the fantastic of simplicity. All of these different types set forth the unconcealment of truth.


Author(s):  
Kateryna Kyselova

The purpose of the article is to develop the issues of quoting the art direction of pop art and the use of artistic techniques of its representatives in the design of clothing of the late XX - early XXI centuries. Visual material covering the history of fashion of the end of the XX - beginning of the XXI century taken from printed publications and the Internet. Methodology. Methods of literary, socio-cultural, art history, aesthetic, and structural-compositional analyzes were used. The scientific novelty of the work lies in identifying the main stages and specifics of quoting pop art in clothing design of the late XX - early XXI century. Brands and designers who turned to the motives of this art direction from 1960 to 2010 were considered. Conclusions. It is determined that the iconography of pop art in clothing design includes the following: portraits of celebrities; reproductions of famous paintings, banners and posters; covers and pages of newspapers and magazines, comics; images of letters, words, slogans and logos; different types of packaging; home appliances; plumbing; electrical appliances; means of transport; food; tobacco products and alcoholic beverages. It was found that the techniques typical of pop art, such as a combination of illusory and real, hyperbolization of objects or their individual properties, duplication of images, mixing bright contrasting colors and multi-context images, introducing quotes, and using collages of photographs were fully adapted to clothing design in the twentieth century. Since the eighties of the twentieth century. The parody approach to creativity characteristic of pop art is spreading. In the XXI century. designers focused on "combining the incompatible." Pop-art ideas for decorating things with a simple cut with various slogans and of everyday and commonly available motifs, as well as imitation materials, have become the most widespread for ready-made clothes.


Bibliosphere ◽  
2017 ◽  
pp. 51-61 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. F. Berestova ◽  
A. V. Mikhailova

Space is one of the basic categories of philosophy having extensive operational and analytical capabilities. Nowadays the specificity of different types of spaces is studied, and the methodology of a spatial approach has become recognized as an effective method of knowledge in various sciences: philosophy, philology, pedagogics and psychology, political science, sociology, art history and cultural studies, economics and law, technical and natural sciences (physics, mathematics, biology, chemistry). As a special tool, the spatial approach is included in the scientific-educational store of documentary communication cycle’s sciences. To proof this statement authors examined an array of dissertations on library science and bibliography. A vector of cognitive activity, formed in librarian works of last 20-30 years, was directed on researching a spatial-information subject, as well as related to an «information space» phenomenon. However, many scientists, focusing on spatial terminology, have not deepened theoretical aspects and set tasks to detect an entity and structure of the information space without trying to offer its definition. Nevertheless, after representation theoretical and methodological foundations for studying information space scientists by T. F. Berestova in her doctoral dissertation researches began operating spatial terminology more confidently. Works’ analysis in library science allowed concluding that studying information or any other space researchers always focus their attention on investigating the interaction of the subject, which simultaneously acts as a part and as a creator of the space with other subjects and objects within it. This interaction provides course of integrative processes between subjects. The library science has already studied some form of interaction, identified a number of areas of integration processes, which are involved and initiated by the library. Thus, the analysis of works revealing the spatial issues enabled to summarize the methodology and to identify some common theoretical and methodological positions, which should be relied while developing a new epistemological tool in library science: methodology of the spatial approach. This article offers recommendations to use the spatial approach in library science and bibliographic researches.


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