Syria is a palimpsest of antiquity, a country scattered with evocative ruins from a tumultuous past. “This kingdom hath suffered many alterations,” wrote the Scottish traveler William Lithgow, who wandered through the country in 1612. The landscape teems with Crusader castles, Roman ruins, traces of Byzantium. Early travelers found a strange incongruity, with magnificent temples rising among “hovels,” and with what the nineteenth-century English artist William H. Bartlett called “the shapeless structures of the peasantry.” He added, “It is a strange irony to find baths and theatres in such a country, or triumphal avenues down which only a flock of ragged goats are driven out and back at dawn and sunset.” Bartlett visited Bostra, 9 miles (14 kilometers) south of Damascus, which was once a great desert caravan city and the capital of Roman Arabia before Palmyra came into prominence. After the decline of the Roman Empire, Bostra was the first Byzantine city to fall to Islam, and it became an important stop on the pilgrimage route to Mecca. Today, Bostra is most famous for its Roman amphitheater with its perfect acoustics and seating for 15,000 people. Bartlett observed the city from miles away: Bostra stood up, black and imposing, before us for miles before we arrived, a mass of columns and triumphal arches with the castle dominating the whole. I went up the square tower of the minaret and looked out over the town—columns and black square towers over every ruined church and mosque, and the big castle, and the countless masses of fallen stone. . . . Such a spectacle of past magnificence and present squalor it would be difficult to conceive. There were inscriptions everywhere, Latin, Greek, Cufic and Arabic, built into the walls of the Fellahin houses, topsy turvy, together with the perforated slabs that were once windows, and bits of columns and capitals of pillars. . . . At last he [the Mamur, Bartlett’s self-appointed guide] took me to the top of the castle and introduced me to the head of the soldiers, who produced chairs and coffee on his roof-top, and subsequently glasses of arack [commonly “arrack,” a strong alcoholic drink made of fermented palm sap, rive, or molasses] and water in his room below.