scholarly journals Intertidal finger bars at El Puntal, Bay of Santander, Spain: observation and forcing analysis

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 673-710 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Pellón ◽  
R. Garnier ◽  
R. Medina
Keyword(s):  
High Tide ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Maximum Speed ◽  
Northern Coast ◽  
The West ◽  
Full System ◽  
Astronomical Tide ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Main Candidate

Abstract. A system of 15 small-scale finger bars has been observed, by using video imagery, between 23 June 2008 and 2 June 2010. The bar system is located in the intertidal zone of the swell-protected beaches of El Puntal Spit, in the Bay of Santander (Northern coast of Spain). It appears on a planar beach (slope = 1.5%) with fine uniform sand (D50 = 0 .27 mm) and extends 600 m alongshore. The cross-shore span of the bars is determined by the tidal horizontal excursion (between 70 and 130 m). They have an oblique orientation with respect to the low-tide shoreline being up-current oriented with respect to the ebb-flow (mean angle of 26° from the shore normal). Their mean wavelength is 26 m and their amplitude varies between 10 and 20 cm. The full system slowly migrates to the east (opposite to the ebb-flow) with a mean speed of 0.06 m day−1, a maximum speed in winter (up to 0.15 m day−1) and a minimum speed in summer. An episode of merging has been identified as bars with larger wavelength seem to migrate slower than shorter bars. Several forcings can act on the bar dynamics being the wind, blowing predominantly from the west, the main candidate to explain the eastward migration of the system. In particular, the wind can generate waves of up to 20 cm (root-mean-squared wave height) over a fetch that can reach 4.5 km at high tide. The astronomical tide seems to be important in the bar dynamics, as the tidal range conditions the mean (daily) fetch and also the time of exposure of the bars to the marine dynamics. Furthermore, the river discharges could act as input of suspended sediment in the bar system and play a role in the bar dynamics.

scholarly journals Intertidal finger bars at El Puntal, Bay of Santander, Spain: observation and forcing analysis

2014 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 349-361 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. Pellón ◽  
R. Garnier ◽  
R. Medina
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Maximum Speed ◽  
Northern Coast ◽  
Astronomical Tide ◽  
Transport Direction ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Main Candidate

Abstract. A system of 15 small-scale finger bars has been observed, by using video imagery, between 23 June 2008 and 2 June 2010. The bar system is located in the intertidal zone of the swell-protected beaches of El Puntal Spit, in the Bay of Santander (northern coast of Spain). The bars appear on a planar beach (slope = 0.015) with fine, uniform sand (D50 = 0.27 mm) and extend 600 m alongshore. The cross-shore span of the bars is determined by the tidal horizontal excursion (between 70 and 130 m). They have an oblique orientation with respect to the low-tide shoreline; specifically, they are down-current-oriented with respect to the dominant sand transport computed (mean angle of 26° from the shore normal). Their mean wavelength is 26 m and their amplitude varies between 10 and 20 cm. The full system slowly migrates to the east (sand transport direction) with a mean speed of 0.06 m day-1, a maximum speed in winter (up to 0.15 m day-1) and a minimum speed in summer. An episode of merging has been identified as bars with larger wavelength seem to migrate more slowly than shorter bars. The wind blows predominantly from the west, generating waves that transport sediment across the bars during high-tide periods. This is the main candidate to explain the eastward migration of the system. In particular, the wind can generate waves of up to 20 cm (root-mean-squared wave height) over a fetch that can reach 4.5 km at high tide. The astronomical tide seems to be important in the bar dynamics, as the tidal level changes the fetch and also determines the time of exposure of the bars to the surf-zone waves and currents. Furthermore, the river discharge could act as input of suspended sediment in the bar system and play a role in the bar dynamics.

The Effectiveness of the Semi-Automatic Technique in Extracting Shoreline from Digital Elevation Models for Sustainable Development in Africa

2020 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Mitchell Ayemere Eboigbe ◽  
Amos I Ugwuoti ◽  
Anthony A. Sam
Keyword(s):  
Digital Elevation Models ◽  
Mean Shift ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Visual Interpretation ◽  
Change Analysis ◽  
Digital Elevation ◽  
Open Source Gis ◽  
The Mean ◽  
The Difference

The accurate delineation of Shorelines is required to determine the respective tidal heights and monitor coastal erosion. In some coastlines, the difference between the high tide and the low tide could be as small as one meter but the accurate extraction of the respective vertical surfaces is required to understand the pattern of the sea wave energy and to chart tidal heights relative to a specific datum. The manual digitizing of shoreline is usually with high accuracies and flexibilities but could be rigorous and hectic especially for longer shorelines. Automatic extraction is more feasible where the wavelength intensity gradient within a sub-pixel level is at maximum for instantaneous shorelines with small tidal range. This is due to topological inconsistencies that could hinder such accuracies. In this study, an improved mean shift segmentation model extracts shorelines from digital elevation models from LiDAR and a UAV survey. The key element of an accurate DTM is the contouring network capable of delineating between the grid pixels each representing water and land whose elevation is below or above tidal datum. The study locations are the Freshwater and the Perranporth bay in the United Kingdom. The third is the Nigeria Maritime Academy Oron shoreline. The choice for the different study areas is to ascertain the reliability of this technique on different geographies. Comparison between manual digitizing and the mean shift segmentation were both by visual interpretation and by volumetric change analysis for two different years. The results obtained indicate that the mean shift segmentation can delineate tide-coordinated shorelines accurately. The limitation of this methodology is on digital images with poor spectral resolution. Recommendations include the use of this technique on open source GIS software and a practical solution to developing a monitoring infrastructure for coastlines in Africa.

scholarly journals Environmental drivers of reef manta ray (Mobula alfredi) visitation patterns to key aggregation habitats in the Maldives

PLoS ONE ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 16 (6) ◽  
pp. e0252470
Author(s):  
Joanna L. Harris ◽  
Guy M. W. Stevens
Keyword(s):  
Habitat Use ◽  
Detection Probability ◽  
Full Moon ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Tidal Range ◽  
Environmental Drivers ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Eastern Side ◽  
Manta Ray ◽  
Reef Manta Ray

A detailed understanding of the dynamics of small-scale (10s km) habitat use by the reef manta ray (Mobula alfredi) in the Maldives Archipelago is required to develop an effective national conservation management plan for this wide-ranging species. Here, a combination of photo-ID sightings data and acoustic telemetry were used to investigate both long-term M. alfredi visitation trends and small-scale movement patterns to key habitats on the eastern side of Baa Atoll (Hanifaru Bay feeding area, Dhigu Thila multifunctional site, and Nelivaru Thila cleaning station). All tagged and most of the sighted M. alfredi exhibited high affinity to the eastern side of Baa Atoll, where 99% of detections occurred, and 69% of individuals were re-sighted in multiple years. Sightings data suggests that visitation patterns may be associated with differences in habitat use by sex and maturity status. Boosted regression trees indicated that tag detection probability at Hanifaru Bay increased with increased westerly wind speed (>5ms-1) during the day, close to a new and full moon just after high tide, and when the tidal range was low. Interaction effects between predictors suggest that wind-driven oceanographic processes, such as Langmuir Circulation, maybe working to increase zooplankton concentration at this location. Tag detection probability increased at Dhigu Thila under similar conditions. At Nelivaru Thila, it increased at lower wind speeds (<5ms-1), close to a full moon, three hours after high tide. These results suggest that M. alfredi may utilise cleaning stations during the day when environmental conditions are not suitable for feeding. There was a high level of connectivity between these three locations, which suggests they form part of a network of key habitats that provide essential services to M. alfredi locally. Future conservation efforts should focus on identifying all areas of key habitat use for this species within the Maldives; applying strict protective measures to these sites and any connecting migration corridors which link them.

Quantification of small-scale heterogeneity in aquatic aminopeptidase activity

2020 ◽  
Vol 84 ◽  
pp. 127-140
Author(s):  
BM Gaas ◽  
JW Ammerman
Keyword(s):  
Chlorophyll Fluorescence ◽  
Leucine Aminopeptidase ◽  
Hudson River ◽  
Aminopeptidase Activity ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Analysis Instrument ◽  
Sequential Samples ◽  
Degree Of Confidence ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Hydrolysis Of

Leucine aminopeptidase (LAP) is one of the enzymes involved in the hydrolysis of peptides, and is sometimes used to indicate potential nitrogen limitation in microbes. Small-scale variability has the potential to confound interpretation of underlying patterns in LAP activity in time or space. An automated flow-injection analysis instrument was used to address the small-scale variability of LAP activity within contiguous regions of the Hudson River plume (New Jersey, USA). LAP activity had a coefficient of variation (CV) of ca. 0.5 with occasional values above 1.0. The mean CVs for other biological parameters—chlorophyll fluorescence and nitrate concentration—were similar, and were much lower for salinity. LAP activity changed by an average of 35 nmol l-1 h-1 at different salinities, and variations in LAP activity were higher crossing region boundaries than within a region. Differences in LAP activity were ±100 nmol l-1 h-1 between sequential samples spaced <10 m apart. Variogram analysis indicated an inherent spatial variability of 52 nmol l-1 h-1 throughout the study area. Large changes in LAP activity were often associated with small changes in salinity and chlorophyll fluorescence, and were sensitive to the sampling frequency. This study concludes that LAP measurements in a sample could realistically be expected to range from zero to twice the average, and changes between areas or times should be at least 2-fold to have some degree of confidence that apparent patterns (or lack thereof) in activity are real.

scholarly journals Quantification of Measurement and Model Effects in Monopile Foundation Scour Protection Experiments

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 585
Author(s):  
Minghao Wu ◽  
Leen De Vos ◽  
Carlos Emilio Arboleda Chavez ◽  
Vasiliki Stratigaki ◽  
Maximilian Streicher ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Standard Deviation ◽  
Flow Field ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Chaotic Flow ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Scour Protection ◽  
Damage Number ◽  
Measurement Effects

The present work introduces an analysis of the measurement and model effects that exist in monopile scour protection experiments with repeated small scale tests. The damage erosion is calculated using the three dimensional global damage number S3D and subarea damage number S3D,i. Results show that the standard deviation of the global damage number σ(S3D)=0.257 and is approximately 20% of the mean S3D, and the standard deviation of the subarea damage number σ(S3D,i)=0.42 which can be up to 33% of the mean S3D. The irreproducible maximum wave height, chaotic flow field and non-repeatable armour layer construction are regarded as the main reasons for the occurrence of strong model effects. The measurement effects are limited to σ(S3D)=0.039 and σ(S3D,i)=0.083, which are minor compared to the model effects.

scholarly journals Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (10) ◽  
pp. 2183-2205 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruno Castelle ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
Rob Brander ◽  
Jak McCarroll ◽  
Arthur Robinet ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
High Tide ◽  
High Energy ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Environmental Controls ◽  
Flow Activity ◽  
Incident Waves

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso–macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfing-related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs >1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.

scholarly journals The Flow through the Gulf of Mexico

2019 ◽  
Vol 49 (6) ◽  
pp. 1381-1401 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Candela ◽  
J. Ochoa ◽  
J. Sheinbaum ◽  
M. López ◽  
P. Pérez-Brunius ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Gulf Of Mexico ◽  
Straits Of Florida ◽  
The North ◽  
Astronomical Tide ◽  
Flow Through ◽  
Sverdrup Transport ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Yucatan Channel ◽  
Range Variation

AbstractFour years (September 2012 to August 2016) of simultaneous current observations across the Yucatan Channel (~21.5°N) and the Straits of Florida (~81°W) have permitted us to investigate the characteristics of the flow through the Gulf of Mexico. The average transport in both channels is 27.6 Sv (1 Sv = 106 m3 s−1), in accordance with previous estimates. At the Straits of Florida section, the transport related to the astronomical tide explains 55% of the observed variance with a mixed semidiurnal/diurnal character, while in the Yucatan Channel tides contribute 82% of the total variance and present a dominant diurnal character. At periods longer than a week the transports in the Yucatan and Florida sections have a correlation of 0.83 without any appreciable lag. The yearly running means of the transport time series in both channels are well correlated (0.98) and present a 3-Sv range variation in the 4 years analyzed. This long-term variability is well related to the convergence of the Sverdrup transport in the North Atlantic between 14.25° and 18.75°N. Using 2 years (July 2014–July 2016) of simultaneous currents observations in the Florida section, the Florida Cable section (~26.7°N), and a section across the Old Bahama Channel (~78.4°W), a mean northward transport of 28.4, 31.1, and 1.6 Sv, respectively, is obtained, implying that only 1.1 Sv is contributed by the Northwest Providence Channel to the mean transport observed at the Cable section during this 2-yr period.

scholarly journals Methodology for Developing Hydrological Models Based on an Artificial Neural Network to Establish an Early Warning System in Small Catchments

2016 ◽  
Vol 2016 ◽  
pp. 1-14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ivana Sušanj ◽  
Nevenka Ožanić ◽  
Ivan Marović
Keyword(s):  
Neural Network ◽  
Artificial Neural Network ◽  
Early Warning ◽  
Early Warning System ◽  
Warning System ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Ann Model ◽  
Data Value ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Artificial Neural

In some situations, there is no possibility of hazard mitigation, especially if the hazard is induced by water. Thus, it is important to prevent consequences via an early warning system (EWS) to announce the possible occurrence of a hazard. The aim and objective of this paper are to investigate the possibility of implementing an EWS in a small-scale catchment and to develop a methodology for developing a hydrological prediction model based on an artificial neural network (ANN) as an essential part of the EWS. The methodology is implemented in the case study of the Slani Potok catchment, which is historically recognized as a hazard-prone area, by establishing continuous monitoring of meteorological and hydrological parameters to collect data for the training, validation, and evaluation of the prediction capabilities of the ANN model. The model is validated and evaluated by visual and common calculation approaches and a new evaluation for the assessment. This new evaluation is proposed based on the separation of the observed data into classes based on the mean data value and the percentages of classes above or below the mean data value as well as on the performance of the mean absolute error.

The Role of Intraseasonal Variability in the Nature of Asian Monsoon Precipitation

2007 ◽  
Vol 20 (17) ◽  
pp. 4402-4424 ◽  
Author(s):  
Carlos D. Hoyos ◽  
Peter J. Webster
Keyword(s):  
Indian Ocean ◽  
Time Scales ◽  
Temporal Variability ◽  
Asian Monsoon ◽  
Monsoon Rainfall ◽  
Mountain Range ◽  
Monsoon Precipitation ◽  
The West ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Rainfall Estimates

Abstract The structure of the mean precipitation of the south Asian monsoon is spatially complex. Embedded in a broad precipitation maximum extending eastward from 70°E to the northwest tropical Pacific Ocean are strong local maxima to the west of the Western Ghats mountain range of India, in Cambodia extending into the eastern China Sea, and over the eastern tropical Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal (BoB), where the strongest large-scale global maximum in precipitation is located. In general, the maximum precipitation occurs over the oceans and not over the land regions. Distinct temporal variability also exists with time scales ranging from days to decades. Neither the spatial nor temporal variability of the monsoon can be explained simply as the response to the cross-equatorial pressure gradient force between the continental regions of Asia and the oceans of the Southern Hemisphere, as suggested in classical descriptions of the monsoon. Monthly (1979–2005) and daily (1997–present) rainfall estimates from the Global Precipitation Climatology Project (GPCP), 3-hourly (1998–present) rainfall estimates from the Tropical Rainfall Measuring Mission (TRMM) microwave imager (TMI) estimates of sea surface temperature (SST), reanalysis products, and satellite-determined outgoing longwave radiation (OLR) data were used as the basis of a detailed diagnostic study to explore the physical basis of the spatial and temporal nature of monsoon precipitation. Propagation characteristics of the monsoon intraseasonal oscillations (MISOs) and biweekly signals from the South China Sea, coupled with local and regional effects of orography and land–atmosphere feedbacks are found to modulate and determine the locations of the mean precipitation patterns. Long-term variability is found to be associated with remote climate forcing from phenomena such as El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO), but with an impact that changes interdecadally, producing incoherent responses of regional rainfall. A proportion of the interannual modulation of monsoon rainfall is found to be the direct result of the cumulative effect of rainfall variability on intraseasonal (25–80 day) time scales over the Indian Ocean. MISOs are shown to be the main modulator of weather events and encompass most synoptic activity. Composite analysis shows that the cyclonic system associated with the northward propagation of a MISO event from the equatorial Indian Ocean tends to drive moist air toward the Burma mountain range and, in so doing, enhances rainfall considerably in the northeast corner of the bay, explaining much of the observed summer maximum oriented parallel to the mountains. Similar interplay occurs to the west of the Ghats. While orography does not seem to play a defining role in MISO evolution in any part of the basin, it directly influences the cumulative MISO-associated rainfall, thus defining the observed mean seasonal pattern. This is an important conclusion since it suggests that in order for the climate models to reproduce the observed seasonal monsoon rainfall structure, MISO activity needs to be well simulated and sharp mountain ranges well represented.

Numerical Model of Current Speed in Bojong Salawe Beach, Pangandaran West Java Province

2021 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 17-23
Author(s):  
Subiyanto Subiyanto ◽  
Nira na Nirwa ◽  
Yuniarti Yuniarti ◽  
Yudi Nurul Ihsan ◽  
Eddy Afrianto
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Models ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Movement Pattern ◽  
Numerical Data ◽  
Current Speed ◽  
The West ◽  
Instantaneous Speed ◽  
The Difference ◽  
West Monsoon ◽  
Current Movement

The purpose of this study was to determine the hydrodynamic conditions at Bojong Salawe beach. The method used in this research is a quantitative method, where numerical data is collected to support the formation of numerical models such as wind, bathymetry, and tide data. The hydrodynamic model will be made using Mike 21 with the Flow Model FM module to determine the current movement pattern based on the data used. In the west monsoon with a maximum instantaneous speed of 0.04 - 0.08 m/s, while in the east monsoon it moves with a maximum instantaneous speed of 0,4 – 0,44 m/s. The dominant direction of current movement tends to the northeast. The results indicate the current speed during the east monsoon is higher than the west monsoon. The difference in the current speed is also influenced by the tide conditions; higher during high tide and lower during low tide. Monsoons also have a role in the current movements, though the effect is not very significant.

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