scholarly journals MORPHOLOGY AND DYNAMICS OF CRESCENTIC BAR SYSTEMS

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 59
Author(s):  
V. Goldsmith ◽  
D. Bowman ◽  
K. Kiley ◽  
B. Burdick ◽  
Y. Mart ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Phase Correlation ◽  
Mature Stage ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Heights

Aerial photograph and field studies in the southeastern Mediterranean, involving bathymetric mapping, and concurrent and antecedent wave measurements, have been used to delineate the sequential development of crescentic bars and associated dynamics. The bar sequence includes multiple parallel or wavy bars, ridge and runnels, oblique/transverse bars, single crescentic and double crescentic bars, and occurs during a calming down of wave activity from 2.5 to 0.5 m waves. The concomitant wave data, including wave directions, energy spectrum, significant wave height, and length of the calm period, showed strong correlation with the bar stages. An increase in total bar occurrence during summer is related to a major wave energy decrease in the spring, when significant wave heights (H ) < 1 m sharply increase to 70-85% in April-May. Inner single crescentic and initial double-crescentic bars are largely restricted to the calmest wave months of May/April to October/November, which reflects their sensitivity to wave energy. The aseasonal occurrence is best shown by the mature double crescentic type, which apparently is the final stage in the crescentic bar development sequence. Two bar developmental sequences were delineated: one shore-normal and the other initially oblique, but gradually rotating to shore-normal in the mature stage. Out of phase relationships between inner and outer bar systems resulted from the lag in response of the outer bars behind changes in wave direction. Among the inner crescentic bars and shore rhythms, phase-correlation was the rule. Crescentic bars are well developed on this coast because of the dissipative conditions and the distinct wave climate. High waves in the winter remove the existing bars, and extended calms allow the full development of the crescentic bar sequence. Similar bar types occur on different coasts in different sequences and in different proportions of time. Thus, it is suggested that these differences are attributable to global differences in the occurrences of threshold wave height conditions .

Comparative wave measurements at a wave energy site with a recently developed low-cost wave buoy (Spotter), ADCP and pressure loggers

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Orrin Lancaster ◽  
Remo Cossu ◽  
Sebastien Boulay ◽  
Scott Hunter ◽  
Tom E. Baldock
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Low Cost ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Mean Values ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
The Mean

AbstractWave measurements from a new, low-cost, real-time wave buoy (Spotter) are investigated in a comparative study as part of a site characterization study at a wave energy candidate site at King Island, Tasmania, Australia. Measurements from the Sofar Ocean Spotter buoy are compared with concurrent measurements from a Teledyne RD Instrument (RDI) 1200 kHz Work Horse ADCP and two RBRsolo3 D wave16 pressure loggers. The comparison period between 8th August – 12th October 2019 provides both the shallowest and longest continuous published comparison undertaken with the Spotter buoy.Strong agreement was evident between the Spotter buoy and RDI ADCP of key wave parameters including the significant wave height, peak wave period, and mean wave direction, with the mean values of those parameters across the full deployment period agreeing within 3%. Surface wave spectra and directional spectra are also analyzed with good agreement observed over the majority of the frequency domain, although the Spotter buoy records approximately 17% less energy within a narrow frequency band near the peak frequency when compared to the RDI ADCP. Measurements derived from the pressure loggers routinely underestimated the significant wave height and overestimated the mean wave period over the deployment period. The comparison highlights the suitability of the Spotter buoy for low-cost wave resource studies, with accurate measurements of key parameters and spectra observed.

Modelling of Sea Storms Associated With Energy Harvesters: Downtime and Energy Losses

2015 ◽  
Author(s):  
Felice Arena ◽  
Valentina Laface ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Alessandra Romolo
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Safety Margin ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Energy Losses ◽  
Critical Element ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Energy Harvesters ◽  
Extreme Loads

The design of an energy harvester involves achieving the two following objectives: to install a safe structure with a reasonable safety margin; and to install an effective device which is able to capture energy in a variety of environmental conditions. In this context, the long-term modelling of the environmental variables plays a crucial role. In the context of wave energy harvesters, the occurrence of sea storms is a critical element in the design process. Indeed, its identification is required for determining extreme loads as well as controlled de-activations of the device for preserving the mechanical components into the device. Considering these issues, the paper proposes an analysis of the wave climate oriented to the determination of the downtime and of the energy losses. Specifically, the paper provides expressions: for calculating the average deactivation time of a wave energy device, given that it must be deactivated if the significant wave height is larger than a certain threshold; and for calculating the energy “lost” (as it is not absorbed by the device) during a storm in which the maximum wave height is larger than the mentioned threshold. The paper shows that closed-form expressions can be obtained by relying on the Equivalent Triangular Storm (ETS) model and that the adequacy of the estimations improves for larger values of the significant wave height threshold.

scholarly journals Wave directional measurement in Patos Lagoon, RS, Brazil

RBRH ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 22 (0) ◽  
Author(s):  
Natália Lemke ◽  
◽  
Lauro Julio Calliari ◽  
José Antônio Scotti Fontoura ◽  
Déborah Fonseca Aguiar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Patos Lagoon ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Significant Wave Heights

ABSTRACT The wave climate characterization in coastal environments is essentially important to oceanography and coastal engineering professionals regarding coastal protection works. Thus, this study aims to determine the most frequent wave parameters (significant wave height, peak period and peak direction) in Patos Lagoon during the period of operation of a directional waverider buoy (from 01/27/2015 to 06/30/2015). The equipment was moored at approximately 14 km from the São Lourenço do Sul coast at the geographic coordinates of 31º29’06” S and 51º55’07” W, with local depth of six meters, registering significant wave height, peak period and peak direction time series. During the analyzed period, the greatest wave frequencies corresponded to short periods (between 2 and 3.5 seconds) and small values of significant wave heights (up to 0.6 meters), with east peak wave directions. The largest wave occurrences corresponded to east peak wave directions (33.3%); peak wave periods between 2.5 and 3 seconds (25.6%) and between 3 and 3.5 seconds (22.1%); and to significant wave heights of up to 0.3 meters (41.2%) and from 0.3 to 0.6 meters (38%). This research yielded unprecedented findings to Patos Lagoon by describing in detail the most occurring wave parameters during the analyzed period, establishing a consistent basis for several other studies that might still be conducted by the scientific community.

scholarly journals Surface Wave Measurements from Subsurface Floats

2015 ◽  
Vol 32 (4) ◽  
pp. 816-827 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eric D’Asaro
Keyword(s):  
Surface Wave ◽  
Pressure Gradient ◽  
Surface Waves ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Vertical Motion ◽  
Sampling Interval ◽  
Height Measurement ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Heights

AbstractPressure gradient measurements on a subsurface Lagrangian float are used to measure the spectrum of surface waves for 100 days of measurements at Ocean Weather Station Papa. Along Lagrangian trajectories of surface waves, the pressure is constant and the vertical pressure gradient fluctuations equal the Eulerian fluctuations at the mean float depth to second order in wave height. Measurement of the pressure difference between the top and the bottom of the float can thus be used to measure the waves. Corrections for the wave decay with depth, for the vertical motion of the float, for the finite sampling interval, and for the sampling noise (among others) are necessary to obtain accurate results. With these corrections, scalar spectra accurately match those from a nearby Waverider buoy for significant wave heights greater than about 3 m. For smaller wave heights, noise in the pressure measurements biases the float spectral measurements. Significant wave height is measured with an rms error of 0.37 m over the measured range of 1–9 m. This demonstrates that Lagrangian floats accurately follow the Lagrangian trajectories of surface waves. More detailed and quieter measurements of float motion could likely measure directional wave spectra from below the surface. Similar methods could be used to infer surface wave properties from other subsurface vehicles.

scholarly journals Wave climatology in the Arkona Basin, the Baltic Sea

2011 ◽  
Vol 8 (6) ◽  
pp. 2237-2270 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Soomere ◽  
R. Weisse ◽  
A. Behrens
Keyword(s):  
Baltic Sea ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
The Baltic Sea ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Baltic

Abstract. The basic features of the wave climate in the South-Eastern Baltic Sea are studied based on available long-term measurements and simulations. The analysis of average, typical and extreme wave conditions, frequency of occurrence of different wave parameters, variations in wave heights from weekly to decadal scales, etc., is performed based on waverider measurements at the Darss Sill since 1991. The measured climatology is compared against numerical simulations with the WAM wave model driven by downscaled reanalysis of wind fields for 1958–2002 and by adjusted geostrophic winds for 1970–2007. The wave climate in this region is typical for semi-enclosed basins of the Baltic Sea. The maximum wave heights are about half of those in the Baltic Proper. The overall reliably recorded maximum significant wave height HS =4.46 m occurred during a severe S-SW storm in 1993 when the 10-min average wind speed reached 28 m s−1. The long-term average significant wave height (0.75 m) shows modest interannual (about 12 % of the long-term mean) and substantial seasonal variation. The wave periods are mostly concentrated in a narrow range of 2.5–4 s and their distribution is almost constant over decades. The role of remote swell is very small. The annual wave properties show large interannual variability but no long-term trends in average and extreme wave heights can be observed.

scholarly journals Global coastal attenuation of wind-waves observed with radar altimetry

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Marcello Passaro ◽  
Mark A. Hemer ◽  
Graham D. Quartly ◽  
Christian Schwatke ◽  
Denise Dettmering ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Annual Cycle ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wind Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Radar Altimetry ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
The Mean

AbstractCoastal studies of wave climate and evaluations of wave energy resources are mainly regional and based on the use of computationally very expensive models or a network of in-situ data. Considering the significant wave height, satellite radar altimetry provides an established global and relatively long-term source, whose coastal data are nevertheless typically flagged as unreliable within 30 km of the coast. This study exploits the reprocessing of the radar altimetry signals with a dedicated fitting algorithm to retrieve several years of significant wave height records in the coastal zone. We show significant variations in annual cycle amplitudes and mean state in the last 30 km from the coastline compared to offshore, in areas that were up to now not observable with standard radar altimetry. Consequently, a decrease in the average wave energy flux is observed. Globally, we found that the mean significant wave height at 3 km off the coast is on average 22% smaller than offshore, the amplitude of the annual cycle is reduced on average by 14% and the mean energy flux loses 38% of its offshore value.

On the Interaction of Waves With an Array of Open Chambered Structures: Application to Wave Energy Converters

2010 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. Venugopal ◽  
I. G. Bryden ◽  
A. R. Wallace
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Reflection ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Maximum Increase ◽  
Reflection And Transmission ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Adjacent Structures

The results of a study carried out to determine the modification of wave climate around an array of open chambered structures, which could represent an array of wave power devices are presented in this paper. The wave-structure interaction is studied using the Boussinesq wave model within the MIKE 21 suite software. The spacing between two adjacent structures within the array is varied from 1S to 5S, where S is equal to 20 m. The effect of varying the spacing between individual structures and the resulting wave reflection and transmission around the array is illustrated using simulated random waves. The results show that the degree of reflection and transmission mainly depends on the spacing between individual structures and the peak wave periods. The maximum increase in significant wave height due to wave reflection in front of the array reached about 39% and the maximum reduction in significant wave height downstream the array is found to be about 41%. The results presented in this paper should be of interest to the wave energy industry.

scholarly journals Joint Modelling of Wave Energy Flux and Wave Direction

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 460
Author(s):  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Flora E. Karathanasi
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Goodness Of Fit ◽  
North Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Western Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Bivariate Model ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In the context of wave resource assessment, the description of wave climate is usually confined to significant wave height and energy period. However, the accurate joint description of both linear and directional wave energy characteristics is essential for the proper and detailed optimization of wave energy converters. In this work, the joint probabilistic description of wave energy flux and wave direction is performed and evaluated. Parametric univariate models are implemented for the description of wave energy flux and wave direction. For wave energy flux, conventional, and mixture distributions are examined while for wave direction proven and efficient finite mixtures of von Mises distributions are used. The bivariate modelling is based on the implementation of the Johnson–Wehrly model. The examined models are applied on long-term measured wave data at three offshore locations in Greece and hindcast numerical wave model data at three locations in the western Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the North Atlantic Ocean. A global criterion that combines five individual goodness-of-fit criteria into a single expression is used to evaluate the performance of bivariate models. From the optimum bivariate model, the expected wave energy flux as function of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy flux for the mean and most probable wave directions are also obtained.

scholarly journals Estimation of Significant Wave Heights from ASCAT Scatterometer Data via Deep Learning Network

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 195
Author(s):  
He Wang ◽  
Jingsong Yang ◽  
Jianhua Zhu ◽  
Lin Ren ◽  
Yahao Liu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Deep Learning ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Incidence Angle ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Global Scale ◽  
Learning Technology ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Heights

Sea state estimation from wide-swath and frequent-revisit scatterometers, which are providing ocean winds in the routine, is an attractive challenge. In this study, state-of-the-art deep learning technology is successfully adopted to develop an algorithm for deriving significant wave height from Advanced Scatterometer (ASCAT) aboard MetOp-A. By collocating three years (2016–2018) of ASCAT measurements and WaveWatch III sea state hindcasts at a global scale, huge amount data points (>8 million) were employed to train the multi-hidden-layer deep learning model, which has been established to map the inputs of thirteen sea state related ASCAT observables into the wave heights. The ASCAT significant wave height estimates were validated against hindcast dataset independent on training, showing good consistency in terms of root mean square error of 0.5 m under moderate sea condition (1.0–5.0 m). Additionally, reasonable agreement is also found between ASCAT derived wave heights and buoy observations from National Data Buoy Center for the proposed algorithm. Results are further discussed with respect to sea state maturity, radar incidence angle along with the limitations of the model. Our work demonstrates the capability of scatterometers for monitoring sea state, thus would advance the use of scatterometers, which were originally designed for winds, in studies of ocean waves.

scholarly journals Comprehensive Wind and Wave Statistics and Extreme Values for Design and Analysis of Marine Structures in the Adriatic Sea

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 522
Author(s):  
Marko Katalinić ◽  
Joško Parunov
Keyword(s):  
Adriatic Sea ◽  
Extreme Values ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Statistics ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Almost All

Wind and waves present the main causes of environmental loading on seagoing ships and offshore structures. Thus, its detailed understanding can improve the design and maintenance of these structures. Wind and wave statistical models are developed based on the WorldWaves database for the Adriatic Sea: for the entire Adriatic Sea as a whole, divided into three regions and for 39 uniformly spaced locations across the offshore Adriatic. Model parameters are fitted and presented for each case, following the conditional modelling approach, i.e., the marginal distribution of significant wave height and conditional distribution of peak period and wind speed. Extreme significant wave heights were evaluated for 20-, 50- and 100-year return periods. The presented data provide a consistent and comprehensive description of metocean (wind and wave) climate in the Adriatic Sea that can serve as input for almost all kind of analyses of ships and offshore structures.

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