scholarly journals WAVES IN WETLANDS: HURRICANE GUSTAV

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jane McKee Smith ◽  
Robert E. Jensen ◽  
Andrew B. Kennedy ◽  
J. Casey Dietrich ◽  
Joannes J. Westerink

Few wave measurements have been made in wetlands during high-energy, surge events, such as hurricanes. During Hurricane Gustav in 2008, many nearshore wave measurements were made in Southeastern Louisiana. These data are used to verify a nearshore wave modeling system and to explore the characteristics of hurricane waves in wetlands. The modeling system consists of the wave generation model WAM, the nearhsore wave model STWAVE, and the circulation model ADCIRC. The measurements confirm reasonable success in modeling the waves. The measurements and modeling also expose some of the problems of measuring waves in highly-variable water depths under hurricane forcing and modeling waves in rapidly degrading wetlands.

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (7) ◽  
pp. 7
Author(s):  
E.H. Boiten

The equipment was designed to obtain data from sea waves. It was developed by the Organization for Applied Scientific Research at Delft in coordination with the Royal Dutch Navy. The intention of the measurements with the wave height measuring equipment was to establish a correlation between the sea motion and the movements of a ship, which is steaming in that sea. So wave measurements and measurements of the ship movements were always carried out simultaneously. To have the movement of the ship free from the position of the wave meter, a telemetering system was chosen to transmit the data from the wave meter. The receiving and recording instruments are placed on board the ship. The first measurement was made in December 1958. At that moment, the wave meter consisted of a buoy assembly in which was mounted a transmitter coupled with an accelerometer. The accelerometer measured the accelerations of the wave meter in a direction perpendicular to the water surface. The carrier of the transmitter was direct frequency modulated by the signal of the accelerometer. After this measurement it became desirable to gather more data from the sea waves. For that reason the instrumentation of the wave meter was extended with a gyro, which measures the slope of the waves. The slope is determined by the angles of the water surface with respect to the horizontal plane in two directions perpendicular to each other. The angle signals frequency-modulate two subcarriers, which in their turn amplitude-modulated the transmitter carrier . With this more complicated equipment a measurement was made in November 1959. In this paper a description is given of the instrumentation of the wave meter and the receiving and recording equipment as it is at the present with a slightly changed modulating system. As the data from the wave meter could be used to study only the wave motion apart from the ship, it seems reasonable to present this paper at this conference.


2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma ◽  
Laura Tuomi

Abstract In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.


2017 ◽  
Vol 53 (12) ◽  
pp. 10065-10084 ◽  
Author(s):  
Atsushi Maruyama ◽  
Manabu Nemoto ◽  
Takahiro Hamasaki ◽  
Sachinobu Ishida ◽  
Tsuneo Kuwagata

2012 ◽  
Vol 20 ◽  
pp. 214-221
Author(s):  
JAMAL JALILIAN-MARIAN

Forward rapidity di-hadron azimuthal angular correlations in high energy proton-nucleus and proton-proton collisions are sensitive to quadrupoles; traceless correlator of 4 Wilson lines whereas single inclusive particle production iNVOLVES only dipoles, traceless correlator of 2 Wilson lines. We discuss the progress made in understanding the energy (rapidity) evolution of the quadrupole as well as its various limits.


Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-46
Author(s):  
Joao Marcos Azevedo Correia de Souza ◽  
Brian Powell

Abstract. The dynamical interaction between currents, bathymetry, waves, and estuarine outflow has significant impacts on the surf zone. We investigate the impacts of two strategies to include the effect of surface gravity waves on an ocean circulation model of the south shore of O'ahu, Hawaii. This area provides an ideal laboratory for the development of nearshore circulation modeling systems for reef-protected coastlines. We use two numerical models for circulation and waves: Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) and Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, respectively. The circulation model is nested within larger-scale models that capture the tidal, regional, and wind-forced circulation of the Hawaiian archipelago. Two strategies are explored for circulation modeling: forcing by the output of the wave model and online, two-way coupling of the circulation and wave models. In addition, the circulation model alone provides the reference for the circulation without the effect of the waves. These strategies are applied to two experiments: (1) typical trade-wind conditions that are frequent during summer months, and (2) the arrival of a large winter swell that wraps around the island. The results show the importance of considering the effect of the waves on the circulation and, particularly, the circulation–wave coupled processes. Both approaches show a similar nearshore circulation pattern, with the presence of an offshore current in the middle beaches of Waikiki. Although the pattern of the offshore circulation remains the same, the coupled waves and circulation produce larger significant wave heights ( ≈  10 %) and the formation of strong alongshore and cross-shore currents ( ≈  1 m s−1).


1966 ◽  
Vol 3 (2) ◽  
pp. 237-246 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. S. B. Paterson ◽  
L. K. Law

Seven determinations of geothermal heat flow were made in the general area of southern Prince Patrick Island in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Measurements were made from sea ice in water depths of between 200 and 600 m. The mean heat flow for the two stations on the continental shelf in the Arctic Ocean was 0.46 ± 0.08 μcal cm−2 s−1. The mean heat flow for the five stations in the channels to the east of Mould Bay was 1.46 ± 0.16 μcal cm−2 s−1. The instrument and field methods are described. Errors due to the instrument and to the environment are discussed.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stergios Misios ◽  
Mads F. Knudsen ◽  
Christoffer Karoff

<p>High energy cosmic rays of galactic and solar origin, natural radioactivity, lighting in thunderstorms and electrified shower clouds, produce ion clusters and charge the whole atmosphere causing a ubiquitous potential difference between the ionosphere and the surface. This Global Electric Circuit (GEC) allows the flow of charges to the surface in the fair-weather regions of the globe. Here, we simulate the effect of highly energetic particle radiation, in particular the 774 AD solar proton event, on the GEC with the aid of the global circulation model EMAC/MESSy. The simulations assume pre-industrial atmospheric conditions and the coupling of aerosol and atmospheric electricity schemes allows for ion-ion and ion-aerosol capture reactions. We discuss effects in fair weather current and atmospheric conductivity at different latitudinal bands. </p>


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 103
Author(s):  
J.P. Moller ◽  
K.C. Owen ◽  
D.H. Swart

This paper describes a diamond mining operation on the west coast of Africa in Namibia (South West Africa, see Figures 1a and 1b), where a sea-wall of normal beach sand has been built out to a distance of more than 300 m seawards of the original coastline. The wall which runs alongshore is maintained in the high energy environment, which is characterized by northbound longshore transport rates, by means of artificial suppletion at a rate of up to and more than 300 000 m / month. Before embarking on the project the company had to be assured of the sand on the sand-wall; to allow completion of the project free of severe damage by wave action. This implied being able to predict the erosion rate of the sea-wall by the waves. The data set used consisted of wave measurements by Waverider and wave observations obtained from voluntary observing ships; aerial photographs at monthly intervals of the waterline in the study area; and soundings of the beach, sea-wall and nearshore topography by using a helicopter as a platform. Various methods of prediction and projection were used to quantify sediment movement.


Fluids ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 5 (4) ◽  
pp. 229
Author(s):  
Muhammad Zikra ◽  
Haryo Dwito Armono ◽  
Fahrizal Pratama

Aquaculture is expected to further improve in the future and can provide 57 percent of fish for human consumption by 2025. In Indonesia, the aquaculture sector produced 5.77% of the world total production in 2014 and increases annually by, on average, 0.62%. Prigi Bay, located in the south of east Java, is one potential area to develop sustainable aquaculture in Indonesia. This study presents numerical wave modeling to investigate the potential area for offshore aquaculture in Prigi Bay. The method used Delft3D Flow and CG WAVE model to simulate wave and current. The superimposed analysis is used to select potential areas between the results of the model and the criteria of environmental parameters. The result shows that the location which meets the aquaculture criteria is located at coordinates 8.311° S–8.322° S and 111.734° E–111.747° E. This site has a depth of around 18–26 m with current velocity between 0.10 and 0.14 m/s and significant a wave height between 0.2–0.4 m. This location is the most suitable location for aquaculture in the Prigi Bay.


Ocean Science ◽  
2007 ◽  
Vol 3 (3) ◽  
pp. 345-362 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. Jordà ◽  
R. Bolaños ◽  
M. Espino ◽  
A. Sánchez-Arcilla

Abstract. The effects of wave-current interactions on shelf ocean forecasts is investigated in the framework of the MFSTEP (Mediterranean Forecasting System Project Towards Enviromental Predictions) project. A one way sequential coupling approach is adopted to link the wave model (WAM) to the circulation model (SYMPHONIE). The coupling of waves and currents has been done considering four main processes: wave refraction due to currents, surface wind drag and bottom drag modifications due to waves, and the wave induced mass flux. The coupled modelling system is implemented in the southern Catalan shelf (NW Mediterranean), a region with characteristics similar to most of the Mediterranean shelves. The sensitivity experiments are run in a typical operational configuration. The wave refraction by currents seems to be not very relevant in a microtidal context such as the western Mediterranean. The main effect of waves on current forecasts is through the modification of the wind drag. The Stokes drift also plays a significant role due to its spatial and temporal characteristics. Finally, the enhanced bottom friction is just noticeable in the inner shelf.


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