scholarly journals RELIABILITY OF PRESSURE SENSORS TO MEASURE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SHOALING REGION

2018 ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
Massimiliano Marino ◽  
Iván Cáceres Rabionet ◽  
Rosaria Ester Musumeci ◽  
Enrico Foti
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transfer Functions ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Experimental Dataset ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Intermediate Waters ◽  
The Waves

A comparison between a range of transfer functions to recover wave height from pressure sensors data is presented. The analysis is carried out by means of a large-scale wave flume experimental dataset, in which resistive, acoustic and pressure gauges recovered wave height are compared as the waves travel from intermediate waters, to the shoaling region and finally into the surf zone. All the considered transfer functions result adequate in recovering wave height in intermediate waters, becoming gradually less accurate as the steepness of the wave increases in the shoaling region and in the surf zone. The accuracy of the compared transfer functions is assessed by means of an ensemble wave height based deviation.

LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON EVOLUTION AND RUN-UP OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

2007 ◽  
Vol 01 (03) ◽  
pp. 257-272 ◽  
Author(s):  
KAO-SHU HWANG ◽  
YU-HSUAN CHANG ◽  
HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG ◽  
YI-SYUAN LI
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Scale Effects ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Hydraulics Laboratory ◽  
The Waves

The evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on plane beaches are investigated in this paper. A series of large-scale experiments were conducted in the SUPER TANK of Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory with three plane beaches of slope 0.05, 0.025 and 0.017 (1:20, 1:40 and 1:60). Solitary waves of which relative wave heights, H/h0, ranged from 0.03 to 0.31 were generated by two types of wave-board displacement trajectory: the ramp-trajectory and the solitary-wave trajectory proposed by Goring (1979). Experimental results show that under the same relative wave height, the waveforms produced by the two generation procedures becomes noticeably different as the waves propagate prior to the breaking point. Meanwhile, under the same relative wave height, the larger the constant water depth is, the larger the dimensionless run-up heights would be. Scale effects associated with the breaking process are discussed.

scholarly journals LOADING OF VERTICAL WALLS BY OVERTOPPING BORES USING PRESSURE AND FORCE SENSORS - A LARGE SCALE MODEL STUDY

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Karunya Ramachandran ◽  
Rebeca Roldan Genzalez ◽  
Hocine Oumeraci ◽  
Stefan Schimmels ◽  
Matthias Kudella ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Pressure Sensors ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Force Sensors ◽  
Research Project ◽  
Joint Research ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Joint Research Project

This study is based on the data obtained from tests carried out in the Large Wave Flume (Grosser Wellenkanal (GWK)) in Hannover in the frame of a joint research project of Ghent University (Belgium) and Forschungszentrum Küste (FZK, Germany). The goal of the research project is to determine the wave induced loads on vertical storm walls located at the end of overtopped dike, which are designed to protect coastal cities from overtopping and floods. The loads resulting from waves overtopping the dike and impacting the vertical wall as a bore are measured by means of both force and pressure sensors. This paper describes the results of pressure and force records at the vertical wall, including a comparative analysis of the overall forces obtained by pressure integration and force sensors for two different wall setups: Fully blocked wall and partially blocked wall.

scholarly journals THE INTERACTION OF WAVES AND CURRENTS OVER A LONGSHORE BAR

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 116 ◽  
Author(s):  
I.A. Svendsen ◽  
J. Buhr Hansen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Runge Kutta Method ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Set Up ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Wave Properties ◽  
A Current

A two-dimensional model for waves and steady currents in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution is described based on a fourth order Runge-Kutta method. The solution yields the variation of wave height, set-up, and current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves. In its general form any wave theory can be used for the wave properties. Specific results are given using the description for surf zone waves suggested by Svendsen (1984a), and in this form the model is used for the wave motion with a current on a beach with a longshore bar. Results for wave height and set-up are compared with measurements by Hansen & Svendsen (1986).

scholarly journals Design and fabrication of wave generator using an oscillating wedge

2020 ◽  
Vol 3 (SI1) ◽  
pp. First
Author(s):  
Lu Thi Yen Vu ◽  
Ha Phuong ◽  
Ho Xuan Thinh ◽  
Dao Thanh Liem ◽  
Truong Quoc Thanh ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Oscillation Amplitude ◽  
The Other ◽  
Data Logging ◽  
Desktop Computer ◽  
Small Ball ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Distance Sensor ◽  
The Waves

This paper describes the design and fabrication of a wave flume and associated equipment. The water wave generation by a triangle wedge is examined in this paper. Wave flume is fabricated by a concrete flume, which is 0.75-meter-wide, 1.3-meter-tall, and 11 meters long. One side of the flume is made of concrete, and the other side is made of clear mica sheets for observe the water wave profile. Wave flume is equipped with a triangle wedge located at one end of the wave flume, and this triangle wedge can be move along the rail of the wave flume. The passive wave absorber, which is made of honeycomb, which is located at the other end of the wave flume for absorbing energy waves generated from the wavemaker. The wedge is controlled by a desktop computer through Matlab software. The wedge can be controlled move up and down at a prescribed speed and oscillation amplitude corresponding to the desired wave height and wave frequency. At the middle flume is equipped microlaser distance sensor, which provides the data-logging capability. The microlaser distance sensor can collect wave height and wave period through a small ball, which is motioned in the tube, which is assembled on the water surface, and the small ball is very slight to avoid kinetic inertia energy. At the wavemaker is equipped with an Eccentricity Sensor, which is used to measure the wedge position to feedback for a desktop computer. Wave flume can generate the largest waves are about 0.2 meter high,  a period about 1 second, and a wavelength of about 1.5 meters. The waves generated by an oscillating wedge have been measured, analyzed to consider the generated wave energy.

scholarly journals HYDRODYNAMICS UNDER LARGE-SCALE REGULAR AND BICHROMATIC BREAKING WAVES

2018 ◽  
pp. 90
Author(s):  
Dominic Van der A ◽  
Joep Van der Zanden ◽  
Ming Li ◽  
James Cooper ◽  
Simon Clark ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layer ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Experimental Studies ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Cfd Models

Multiphase CFD models recently have proved promising in modelling cross‐shore sediment transport and morphodynamics (Jacobsen et al 2014). However, modelling breaking wave turbulence remains a major challenge for these models, because it occurs at very different spatial and temporal length scales and involves the interaction between surface generated turbulence and turbulence generated in the bottom boundary layer. To an extent these challenges arise from a lack of appropriate experimental data, since most previous experimental studies involved breaking waves at small-scale, and have not permitted investigation of the turbulent boundary layer processes. Moreover, most existing studies have concentrated on regular waves, thereby excluding the flow and turbulence dynamics occurring at wave group time-scales under irregular waves within the surf zone. These limitations motivated a new experiment in the large-scale CIEM wave flume in Barcelona involving regular and irregular waves. The experiment was conducted in May-July 2017 within the HYDRALAB+ Transnational Access project HYBRID.

Longshore variations in longshore currents

1977 ◽  
Vol 14 (8) ◽  
pp. 1897-1905 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. R. Keeley ◽  
A. J. Bowen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Angle Of Incidence ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Incoming Wave ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Deep Water Wave

The mean longshore currents in the surf zone were measured along more than 1 km of a beach. These measurements were compared to a theoretical model of the system in which the current depends on the angle of incidence of the incoming waves and the longshore variation in both wave height and breaker angle. A wave refraction programme was used to compute the values of wave height and breaker angle every 100 m along the beach from the measured values of wave period and deep water wave direction. In general, the large scale variation of currents along the beach was well described by the theory. However, superimposed upon these large scales of motion were fairly regular, small-scale circulation cells which are probably associated with edge waves at the incoming wave frequency.

scholarly journals CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE: LARGE-SCALE LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS

2020 ◽  
pp. 18
Author(s):  
Sara Dionisio Antonio ◽  
Jebbe van der Werf ◽  
Bart Vermeulen ◽  
Ivan Caceres ◽  
Jose M. Alsina ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Shoreline Evolution

The swash zone is a highly dynamic boundary between the beach and the surf zone. Swash processes determine whether sediment is either stored on the upper beach or is transported offshore, and thus strongly affect shoreline evolution. The present research focuses on the hydrodynamics, sand transport processes and net sediment transport in the swash zone through a series of large-scale wave flume experiments. This research aims to improve the understanding of swash zone sand transport processes, in particular the role of cross-shore sand advection and wave-swash interactions, and bring new detailed insights into the relation between intra-swash processes and net sand transport rates.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/tYvJ0pML-kU

scholarly journals SUSPENDED AND BEDLOAD TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE: IMPLICATIONS FOR SAND TRANSPORT MODELS

2017 ◽  
pp. 30 ◽  
Author(s):  
Joep van der Zanden ◽  
Dominic A. Van der A ◽  
Tom O'Donoghue ◽  
David Hurther ◽  
Ivan Caceres ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Large Scale ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Sediment Concentration ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Bedload Transport ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Load Transport ◽  
Particle Velocities

This paper presents results obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focused at measuring hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes in the wave breaking region. The experiment involved monochromatic plunging breaking waves over a mobile bed barred profile consisting of D50 = 0.24 mm sand. Vertical profiles of velocity, turbulence, sand concentration and sand fluxes were measured at 12 cross-shore locations, covering the shoaling region up to the inner surf zone. Particularly high-resolution profiles were obtained near the bed within the wave bottom boundary layer, using an acoustic sediment concentration and velocity profiler (ACVP). Sheet flow concentration and particle velocities were measured at two locations near the bar crest using two conductivity-based concentration measurement tanks (CCM+). Total transport rates, obtained from the evolving bed profile measurements, were decomposed into suspended and bedload transport contributions across the bar. The present paper presents a summary of the key findings of the experiment, which are used to discuss existing approaches for modeling suspended and bed load transport in the surf zone.

Kajian Model Fisik Pengaruh Freeboard dan Susunan Buis Beton Sebagai Pemecah Gelombang Tenggelam Ambang Rendah (Pegar) Dalam Mereduksi Gelombang

2017 ◽  
Vol 1 (2) ◽  
pp. 34
Author(s):  
Zulkarnain Zulkarnain ◽  
Nadjadji Anwar
Keyword(s):  
Low Cost ◽  
Relative Depth ◽  
Submerged Breakwater ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Concrete Cylinder ◽  
Engineering Department ◽  
Sea Area ◽  
The Waves ◽  
Transmission Test ◽  
Better Than

The Research Center and Development of Water (Puslitbang) is currently developing the Submerged Breakwater in shallow sea area (PEGAR). The author is interested to examine the material that easily obtained in the field of RCP concrete cylinder. The observation is how it to be ability in function as submerged breakwater an go green and low cost. The physical model of wave transmission test is how the response to the structure in ability to damping of wave as the breakwater function. In this research breakwater used is submerged breakwater type by using concrete cylinder (buis beton). The purpose from this research is to know how the response of breakwater structure to the waves through it, with some variation of the structure by creating a structure with three variations of the arrangement and freeboard that is the relative depth with the crest width is constant. The wave generated test in this study is using regular waves in wave flume at FTSP Civil Engineering Department of Institute Technology Ten November. From the analysis of the effect of the installation of submerged breakwater by using concrete cylinder to the wave damping value, it can be concluded that the factors that are very influential is the freeboard and the composition of concrete cylinder. Scenario A (rigid vertical massive) is capable of producing the smallest value of kt is 0.33. As for scenario B (rigid horyzontal massive) with a damping value of 0.5, while the scenario C (rigid permeable) is only able to produce kt value of 0.71. Scenario A is better than scenario B and C Because the position of arrangement of A is very good used to damp wave in small or big freeboard conditions.

scholarly journals Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows

Water Waves ◽  
2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maria Bjørnestad ◽  
Henrik Kalisch ◽  
Malek Abid ◽  
Christian Kharif ◽  
Mats Brun
Keyword(s):  
Turbulent Flows ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vries Equation ◽  
Kdv Equation ◽  
Flow Depth ◽  
Present Contribution ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
The Kdv Equation ◽  
The Waves

AbstractIt is well known that weak hydraulic jumps and bores develop a growing number of surface oscillations behind the bore front. Defining the bore strength as the ratio of the head of the undular bore to the undisturbed depth, it was found in the classic work of Favre (Ondes de Translation. Dunod, Paris, 1935) that the regime of laminar flow is demarcated from the regime of partially turbulent flows by a sharply defined value 0.281. This critical bore strength is characterized by the eventual breaking of the leading wave of the bore front. Compared to the flow depth in the wave flume, the waves developing behind the bore front are long and of small amplitude, and it can be shown that the situation can be described approximately using the well known Kortweg–de Vries equation. In the present contribution, it is shown that if a shear flow is incorporated into the KdV equation, and a kinematic breaking criterion is used to test whether the waves are spilling, then the critical bore strength can be found theoretically within an error of less than ten percent.

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