In search of a moneymaking machine: Discourses on policy towards fashion in Finland

Author(s):  
Olga Gurova

Recently, fashion has become a target for political considerations and ‘strategic governmentalization’ in such countries as Denmark, Australia and New Zealand, among others. The Finnish government has also paid attention to fashion. This research uses the concept of ‘governmentality’ as a form of power with the purpose to understand how fashion is governed in a contemporary western society. Taking Finland as a site of fieldwork, this research shows how various governmental and non-governmental actors, aligned in fluid networks, produce policy for fashion, what rationalities lay behind their actions and what kind of dilemmas they have to address.

2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (4) ◽  
pp. 10-27
Author(s):  
Noyale Colin

The last decade of scholarship in dance has produced a number of literary contributions which account for the need to theorize the radical potential of dance as a site for political activism in the context of global social and economic crises. As a practitioner, teacher and theorist in dance and performance, working in a UK university, I am interested in exploring the potential of somatics to resist a seemingly utilitarian incorporation of somatic principles into the agenda of neo-liberalism under post-Fordist conditions. In this article, I refer to somatics as an umbrella term to discuss practices related to the dance field including protests, walks, flashmobs and choreographic explorations of performative participation. While these practices might not be widely recognized as somatic practices, I argue that all operate at a somatic level and point to an ever-shifting relationship between the individual, the collective and the social environment. I reflect on a number of theoretical ideas pertaining to the relations between the development of somatics and the intensification of cultural capitalism in contemporary western society. In doing so, I aim to theorize somatics as critical and political practices of collective forms of being and working together. Drawing on instances of collective embodiment, I argue for the politicization of somatic practices as it relates to ideas of affect, ethics and time. I suggest that embodied expressions of collectivity as politicized somatics can develop valid tactics to counter what I observe to be a mimetic phenomenon between dance practices and capitalism. A situation that has been only exacerbated by the Covid 19 pandemic. I propose the concept of somatic collectivity as a way to describe the critical potential of collective embodiment found in dance and its expanded field of practices.


2020 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 188-203
Author(s):  
Roy Jones ◽  
Tod Jones

In the speech in which the phrase ‘land fit for heroes’ was coined, Lloyd George proclaimed ‘(l)et us make victory the motive power to link the old land up in such measure that it will be nearer the sunshine than ever before … it will lift those who have been living in the dark places to a plateau where they will get the rays of the sun’. This speech conflated the issues of the ‘debt of honour’ and the provision of land to those who had served. These ideals had ramifications throughout the British Empire. Here we proffer two Antipodean examples: the national Soldier Settlement Scheme in New Zealand and the Imperial Group Settlement of British migrants in Western Australia and, specifically, the fate and the legacy of a Group of Gaelic speaking Outer Hebrideans who relocated to a site which is now in the outer fringes of metropolitan Perth.


Labyrinth ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 22 (2) ◽  
pp. 91-105
Author(s):  
Gianluca Chiadini

The reception of the notions of trace, arkhé, and document in the work of Alain Nadaud This paper intends to point out the philosophical features in the novels of the French writer Alain Nadaud and their links with the philosophical theory concerning the concepts of trace, arkhé and document elaborated by Jacques Derrida in the second half of the XX century. This subject, related to the contemporary socio-historical concept of post-truth, reveals the originality and the up-to-date tendency in the novels of Alain Nadaud. This paper uncovers new important aspects of his work by proposing a solid philosophical interpretation of its main theoretical principles. In particular, it uncovers the philosophical reasons at the origin of his writing, which is based on the historical research method. Furthermore, it reveals the sense of dystopia of his novels and relates it with the most recent socio-philosophical analysis of contemporary western society.


2014 ◽  
Vol 31 (3) ◽  
pp. 267-286 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mike Brown ◽  
Dawn Penney

This article draws on material associated with a solo sailing circumnavigation, undertaken by 16 year old Jessica Watson in 2009–2010, to discuss how her voyage provided a focal point for debates relating to voluntary risk-taking conducted within the sport and leisure context. Specifically, we illustrate how public and media commentaries on her voyage reflect discourses of risk being infused and conflated with discourses of responsibility, youth and gender. Our analysis brings to the fore the contested, moral and political nature of risk discourses in contemporary western society. Public reaction to Watson’s voyage indicates that descriptions of western society as risk-averse fail to capture the situated and dynamic perceptions of risk.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Ariana Pia

<p>This research questions whether considering Māori concepts of architecture and space within the design of New Zealand prisons can help in the rehabilitation process of inmates of Māori descent.   First, the general concept of prison architecture will be researched. The panopticon as a general diagram as well as specific case studies will frame an understanding of the characteristics of prison architecture in the western sphere. A specific attention to interior architecture will be established.  Second, the link between cultural experience and rehabilitation will be distinguished primarily through analysis of Māori Focus Units.  Third, the notions of Māori perception and understanding of architectural space will be explored in a general context. More particularly, characteristics of interior architecture will be researched.  Fourth, a site will be selected to reflect the contentious issues of incarceration of the Māori population. Matiu/Somes Island, located in the Wellington harbour, is a reflection of historical Māori culture and lifestyles that form a base of beliefs and mythology that modern Māori can identify with. The island itself is a provocation due to its history of incarceration.  This thesis is of interior architecture; hence the design will be developed within the constraints of a given architectural envelope. While this is an assumed position, the interior architecture will challenge the given envelope and its contextual site. As a consequence, further interventions into the landscape and the architecture will be developed to sustain the interior architecture here developed.  It is anticipated that this research will therefore support the idea that interior architecture of New Zealand prisons must be developed as an integral part of a holistic spatial intervention in view of supporting the rehabilitation process of Māori inmates.</p>


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Ariana Pia

<p>This research questions whether considering Māori concepts of architecture and space within the design of New Zealand prisons can help in the rehabilitation process of inmates of Māori descent.   First, the general concept of prison architecture will be researched. The panopticon as a general diagram as well as specific case studies will frame an understanding of the characteristics of prison architecture in the western sphere. A specific attention to interior architecture will be established.  Second, the link between cultural experience and rehabilitation will be distinguished primarily through analysis of Māori Focus Units.  Third, the notions of Māori perception and understanding of architectural space will be explored in a general context. More particularly, characteristics of interior architecture will be researched.  Fourth, a site will be selected to reflect the contentious issues of incarceration of the Māori population. Matiu/Somes Island, located in the Wellington harbour, is a reflection of historical Māori culture and lifestyles that form a base of beliefs and mythology that modern Māori can identify with. The island itself is a provocation due to its history of incarceration.  This thesis is of interior architecture; hence the design will be developed within the constraints of a given architectural envelope. While this is an assumed position, the interior architecture will challenge the given envelope and its contextual site. As a consequence, further interventions into the landscape and the architecture will be developed to sustain the interior architecture here developed.  It is anticipated that this research will therefore support the idea that interior architecture of New Zealand prisons must be developed as an integral part of a holistic spatial intervention in view of supporting the rehabilitation process of Māori inmates.</p>


2020 ◽  
Vol 26 (39) ◽  
pp. 93-105
Author(s):  
Rejane Lopes Rodrigues

A partir da década de 1960 teve início na Europa e nos EUA um novo movimento artístico conhecido como arte performativa. ORLAN, artista plástica francesa, insere-se neste movimento através de obras que incluem intervenções cirúrgicas em seu próprio corpo com o objetivo de questionar o status do corpo feminino na sociedade ocidental contemporânea. Diante disso, propomos no presente artigo, uma análise do seu trabalho a partir das considerações teóricas do filósofo e escritor transgênero Paul B. Preciado.Palavras-chave: Arte performativa; ORLAN; Gênero; Feminismo; Paul. B. Preciado.AbstractFrom the 1960s, a new artistic movement known as performative art began in Europe and the USA. ORLAN, a French artist, is part of this movement through works that include surgical interventions on her own body in order to question the status of the female body in contemporary Western society. Therefore, in this article, we propose an analysis of his work based on the theoretical considerations of the transgender philosopher and writer Paul B. Preciado.Keywords: Performative art; ORLAN; Genre; Feminism; Paul B. Preciado.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Christian Jacob Squire

<p>Reports throughout New Zealand have highlighted a chronic and growing problem in our urban centres – the effects of alcohol abuse and binge drinking leave our youth vulnerable and unprotected. The results can sometimes be catastrophic. Makeshift paramedic tents have recently been erected in Wellington to provide aid and retreat, but these are temporary structures and only available two nights per week. The vulnerability of New Zealand’s youth occurs not only on nights with too much alcohol, but also in response to the daily stresses brought on by contemporary urban life. New Zealand youth suicide rates are the highest out of 30 OECD nations and more than twice the OECD average (Chapman). Likewise the secularization of contemporary urban society has resulted in the loss of spiritual retreats previously found within churches and religious centres. This thesis examines the need for a permanent urban retreat for all those who are temporarily vulnerable. The thesis investigates how architectural form can provide a new approach to urban retreat by critically engaging analogous theories found in the writings of Plato and Louis Kahn. Both Plato’s theory of Forms (discussed in Plato’s “Dialogues”) and Louis Kahn’s 1961 essay “Form and Design” are centred on the idea of achieving an enlightened state of mind, freeing the mind from the physical realm. Plato’s theory of Forms posits that the universe is separated into two realms: an intelligible realm and a sensible realm. All objects that exist in the sensible realm – perceivable to us by our senses – are merely imperfect shadows of their essences or Forms. By understanding this, we can free our minds from the distractions of life which so often lead to stress and despair. Plato’s theory of Forms has many parallels with the architectural theory of Louis Kahn, as evidenced in Kahn’s “Form and Design”. Kahn describes the ‘measurable’ and ‘immeasurable’ realms, which are analogous to Plato’s sensible and intelligible realms. This thesis critically engages these analogous theories of Plato and Kahn – achieving an enlightened state of mind, freeing the mind from the physical realm – to establish how architectural form can provide urban retreat for those who are temporarily vulnerable. The site for the design research investigation is the nameless alleyway in the Courtenay Place precinct which separates Wellington’s historic St James Theatre from The Mermaid bar and brothel – a site which symbolizes the conflicting stimuli to which our urban residents are now continually exposed.</p>


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Elise Caddigan

<p>Old St Paul’s is an iconic New Zealand heritage site managed by Heritage New Zealand.¹ It is a site that tells both national and local stories and draws a wide range of international and domestic visitors. Key recommendations made by the New Zealand Ministry of Tourism in their 2010 and 2015 strategies were that the country is no longer automatically perceived as ‘authentic’² by international visitors, and that heritage in New Zealand should be striving to deliver engaging, educational and rich cultural and social experiences.  Using Old St. Paul’s as a case study, this research asks if New Zealand heritage sites are providing exhibitions, interpretation and stories that successfully communicate the site management’s presentation goals to visitors. This relationship is evaluated through the exhibitions and interpretation used by site management, and compared with visitor understanding and their experience of these.  This research uses interviews and visitor surveys to gauge the management/visitor relationship at Old St. Paul’s. An in-depth interview with the site’s manager is analysed and presented comparatively against the results gained from conducting visitor surveys. This research provides an investigation into contemporary heritage practice in New Zealand and offers a pilot study for future development in the heritage sector. Furthermore, it is suggested that heritage sites could adopt similar summative practices to those used in the museum sector in order to monitor visitor satisfaction and the perception of quality.</p>


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Amber Marie Gray

<p>Wine is created from the delicate and fragile craft of winemaking, a craft reliant on the balance of both science and art. Wine translates qualities and experience of space and creation through the sense of taste and smell. Intoxicating impressions rediscovers the artistic nature of this craft through the space of a winery. It proposes an architecture of engagement.  Impressionist painting offers an immersive representation of the qualities and atmosphere of space. This immersive effect creates an engagement of the viewer's imagination within the depicted scene. The painting's execution is based on both science and art through the representation of the intangible. This exploration resulted in testing architectural concepts of 'dissipation of light' and 'blurring of boundaries' to enhance the architectural experience to engage the imagination of the inhabitant.  From these concepts, architecture allows the inhabiting of intangible qualities. The landscape presents itself as an ephemeral tool to mediate this relationship of art and science having an imperative role within the winemaking craft. The architectural design becomes a tool to immerse the user within the craft that it houses and within the landscape where the craft of winemaking occurs and upon which it relies upon.  This winery is designed for a site in the Hawke’s Bay wine region of New Zealand and follows a brief designed to materialise intangible and immaterial qualities of space. This is to engage the inhabitant within the environment and the winemaking craft. The architectural design allows the exploration of the intangible, balanced, vulnerable and fragile nature of a craft that is balanced by a scientific reality.</p>


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