La Robe à la Française et la Robe l’Odalisque: Wearing women’s clothing in The Rose of Versailles

2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (1) ◽  
pp. 29-47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Emerald L. King

The androgynous heroine of Ikeda Ryoko’s manga The Rose of Versailles (1972–73), Oscar Françoise de Jarjayes, is usually depicted in masculine, specifically military, attire. The sixth daughter of an important military colonel during the reign of Louis XV and Louis XVI, Oscar is raised as a son and follows her father into the military. Oscar is only ever depicted in one dress, known as the robe l’odalisque – a gown that is adopted at a pivotal moment of character development. It is while wearing this dress, which Ikeda intended to serve as a wedding dress, that Oscar comes to terms with her unrequited love for Marie Antoinette’s lover, Count Axel von Fersen. In doing so, Oscar places more importance on her allegiance to France than to romance. This article investigates the complicated gender and social politics that are symbolized by the choice to wear women’s clothing in The Rose of Versailles.

2017 ◽  
Vol 80 (4) ◽  
pp. 474-487
Author(s):  
Marie-Pauline Martin

Abstract Today there is a consensus on the definition of the term ‘rococo’: it designates a style both particular and homogeneous, artistically related to the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI. But we must not forget that in its primitive formulations, the rococo has no objective existence. As a witty, sneering, and impertinent word, it can adapt itself to the most varied discourses and needs, far beyond references to the eighteenth century. Its malleability guarantees its sparkling success in different languages, but also its highly contradictory uses. By tracing the genealogy of the word ‘rococo’, this article will show that the association of the term with the century of Louis XV is a form of historical discrimination that still prevails widely in the history of the art of the Enlightenment.


Author(s):  
Joël Félix

This chapter examines the social and political structures of the absolute monarchy. It explores the extent to which tensions and conflicts in the mid-eighteenth century, in particular disputes between government and parlements, divided the elites over reform and policy, and opened up the realm of politics to public opinion. Reviewing the fate of major reform initiatives through the reigns of both Louis XV and his grandson Louis XVI, it argues that political crises paralysed the ability of royal institutions to enforce authority and generate consensus, thus making the transition from the old regime to the modern world necessary and inevitable.


Author(s):  
Luisa Messina
Keyword(s):  

Casanova est pratiquement esthète dans son appréciation des personnes, mais il les évalue aussi par rapport à leur abord, leur politesse sociale ou savoir vivre. Entre ses trois visites, la société change. Outre ses amis disparus, le voyageur n’a plus la joie de la conquête. Le Paris qu’il connaissait s’est transformé en une sorte de labyrinthe incompréhensible. Voulant aller de Saint-Eustache à la rue Saint-honoré, il s’égare dès qu’il ne trouve plus l’Hôtel de Soissons. Il n’a plus de succès au jeu, en amour ni en diplomatie. Louis XV dont les excès sexuels rappellent la débauche juvénile de Casanova est bien loin. Le vénitien conclut son observation en admirant le défunt Louis XV tandis que son jugement sur Louis XVI est féroce, parce que le voyageur attribue les maux à la faiblesse du dernier roi des Bourbons, qui aurait sauvé la France des horreurs révolutionnaires. La France n’est plus à l’image de sa seconde patrie.


1988 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 389-393
Author(s):  
Jean-Claude Lamberti
Keyword(s):  

Le Professeur Robert Roswell Palmer déclare volontiers que ses réflexions et ses travaux historiques, depuis près de quarante ans, ont été influencés, sinon inspirés, par l’oeuvre d’Alexis de Tocqueville. Cet intérêt pour l’auteur de La Démocratie et Amérique explique suffisamment qu’après avoir longtemps centré ses recherches sur la grande vague atlantique des révolutions de l’égalité et de la liberté, il consacre aujourd’hui un ouvrage à Tocqueville. Plus précisément le dernier ouvrage publié par R.R. Palmer s’intitule The Two Tocquevilles ; l’idée originale qui organise cette publication est de comparer à l’oeuvre historique d’Alexis de Tocqueville, celle de son père, le Comte Hervé de Tocqueville, composée de deux ouvrages aujourd’hui bien oubliés. Après une longue et brillante carrière de Préfet sous la Restauration, le Comte Hervé fut nommé Pair de France en 1828, et, après la Révolution de Juillet, il consacra ses loisirs à la réflexion et à l’étude historique ; à l’âge de soixante-quinze ans il publia une Histoire philosophique du règne de Louis XV et deux ans plus tard, en 1850, un deuxième ouvrage intitulé Coup d’oeil sur la règne de Louis XVI. Au même moment son fils Alexis commençait à travailler au livre dont il devait publier la première moitié en 1856 sous le titre L’Ancien Régime et la Révolution. A sa mort en 1859, il laissa quelques chapitres rédigés de la seconde partie de l’ouvrage, qui devait traiter de la Révolution proprement dite. Ainsi, à quelques années de distance, le père et le fils ont traité du même sujet : les dernières année de la chute de l’Ancien Régime. La situation est assez rare et, peut-être, sans précédent. Mais il fallait savoir s’en étonner et en tirer des leçons utiles.


2012 ◽  
Vol 538-541 ◽  
pp. 3043-3046
Author(s):  
Yong Wei Wu ◽  
Shu Cong Chen

The military element is widely used as the design element of modern clothing in fashion design. This paper describes the uniform element from the aspect of application of uniform fabrics and uniform accessories.


2020 ◽  
pp. 34-45
Author(s):  
І. О. Засорнова ◽  
Л. В. Краснюк ◽  
Х. О. Журавльова

Projecting and manufacturing of a women's clothing ensemble in the military-style based on the analysis of the uniform of soldiers of the Armed Forces of Ukraine. In the process of the research the basic principles of the systematic approach to the design-projecting of the women's clothing ensemble were used: literary-analytical researches, combinatorics method. Historical prerequisites for the appearance of the style of military uniforms in clothing are determined. The characteristic features and basic principles of creating military-style clothing are identified. The collections of modern designers are investigated and the main directions of development of military style in women's clothing are highlighted. The results of the artistic design of the military-style women's clothing ensemble are presented and its artistic and compositional features are described. The main artistic and compositional features of the military style in modern women's clothing are identified, which is the basis for designing the author's ensemble of women's clothing in this style. The main artistic and compositional features of the military style in modern women's clothing are identified, which is the basis for designing an author's ensemble of women's clothing in this style. The analysis of structural and technological elements of military uniform was performed on the following features: silhouette, type of clasp, sleeve cover, neck and collar design, design of the lower sleeves, type and location of pockets, functional and finishing details, areas of application of distinctive marks, color, fittings. Practical recommendations are given about the choice of artistic and compositional solutions, structural and technological elements, selection of materials, accessories, hats and shoes in the design of military-style women's clothing. The author's ensemble of women's clothing in the military style named "Pentesileya" has been created.


Author(s):  
Heorhii Potulnytskyi ◽  

Being at the political and diplomatic service of King of France Louis XV for more than three decades (from 1729 to 1759) Hryhor Orlyk, the son of the Ukrainian Hetman Pylyp Orlyk, was committed to furthering the cause of his father. Traditionally, in the context of the political tasks of the French kingdom, he addressed, on the one hand, the incorporation of the Cossack factor into the foreign policy of the Versailles Cabinet, and, on the other hand, the Crimean question. At every stage of his diplomatic service, which we have distinguished (the 1730s, 1740s, and 1750s respectively), the Hetman’s son set different tasks to resolve the Crimean issue and, accordingly, tried to implement them. Through his consistent, permanent, and persistent actions, Hryhor Orlyk contributed to the traditional matter of Hetman’s Ukraine integration into the international policy of the Versailles Cabinet, along with the Cossack and Crimean factors. In the 1750s, one of the last representatives of the Mazepian emigration Fedir Myrovych and Fedir Nakhymovskyi joined the corps of Orlyk’s son Hryhor. They became his effective assistants in the matter of political and legal recognition of the Cossack factor as one of the dominant foreign policy activities of the Versailles Cabinet by the French political elite. Being in Crimea in the 1750s, Myrovych and Nakhymovskyi acted as special emissaries of the Versailles Cabinet maintaining contacts with it directly through Hryhor Orlyk. They contributed in every way to the policy of the kingdom in Crimea in connection with the activation of the Cossack factor there. Old Mazepa’s supporters assisted the Hetman’s son in the implementation of the military and political cooperation between France and Crimea and the Ottoman Empire, but they also attempted to explain the essence of Russian policy aimed at terminating the independence of the Kosh both to the Khan and to Zaporozhian Cossacks in Crimea. The author concludes that as the envoy of the French Crown in Crimea, Hryhor Orlyk made the last attempt to involve the Crimean Khanate to the problems related to the restoration of the Cossack statehood solving the Crimean-Cossack problem, which had been consistent since the sixteenth century. All Mazepa supporters by conducting their activities in Crimea not only contributed to raising the issue of integrating the Cossack factor as an integral part into the international policy of the Versailles Cabinet, but also helped to legitimize and substantiate the latter in the concept of involving Turkey and the Crimean Khanate into the struggle for Ukraine’s liberation from Russian domination


Author(s):  
Hamish Scott

The decline of France as a European power is an established eighteenth-century development and one that was laid at the Bourbon monarchy's door by its critics during the ancien régime. Within a worldview shaped by the aristocratic honour code, Louis XV and Louis XVI were seen as having dishonoured themselves and the country they ruled, by their political failures and especially the Austrian alliance concluded in 1756. These arguments were then adopted in the early stages of the French Revolution. Restoring that same honour, now increasingly attached to the nation and not the Bourbon dynasty, was a central objective of the members of both the National and Legislative Assemblies, and was integral to the Brissotin campaign for war against Austria, declared in spring 1792. This chapter reinforces the importance of continuities in political culture after 1789 and demonstrates the ways in which foreign policy was more central to the early Revolution than sometimes appreciated, contributing to the ‘nationalisation of honour’ (Hampson), as the nation and not the monarchy, became its focus.


Author(s):  
Julian Swann

Absolute monarchy as practiced since the time of Louis XIV involved the king acting as his own first minister, the royal master directing ministerial servants whose office was to be treated almost as vocation. Louis XV had struggled to fulfil that role, but he had nevertheless maintained at least the appearance of deciding ministerial destinies. Under Louis XVI existing fissures would break open, and increasingly independent-minded ministers, sceptical about the intellectual foundations of absolute monarchy and inspired by ideas from across the channel, developed a habit of resigning on principle, putting public opinion, the nation or their own interests before their obligation to serve the king. By taking a close look at ministerial disgrace, notably through the careers of Necker and Calonne, this chapter discusses the breakdown of a model of Bourbon government that would do much to bring about the collapse of the king’s authority in 1789.


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